Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: ffacker (Fred Facker)

My 66 289 Auto coupe sat all winter in the garage. Last week I started her up
and flushed the radiator, changed my thermostat, changed my oil, etc. It was
having starting problems, so I ended up getting a new battery and a new starter
solenoid. That seemed to fix everything. I was cruising it around running errands
all day today and pulled it into the driveway about 4:30. I went back out to pull it
into the garage, and all I get is a "click" when I turn the key. The battery is
showing 12.4 volts. I checked my battery connections and solenoid connections.
Everything is clean and tight. I'm thinking it's the solenoid again -- which is
ridiculous that the new one has quit after literally a week. Anyway, I can't do
anything about it until the parts store opens tomorrow, so I thought I'd see if
anyone else was sitting around tonight and had any comments or ideas.


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Mail From: JCool289 (JCool289

i have had that problem before and it turned out the battery posts and
terminals just needed cleaned. also had that happen once and it turned out to be a
greasy/dirty connection where the negative battery cable bolts to the engine
block. try that if you havent already....

Jason



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Mail From: tcob32256 (john ljh)


Hi Fred,

I had a simular thing happen one time. Try pulling on the cable, not the
cable end. One time I was having the same problem and I had just changed
the cables before winter. Well, The cable ends were the type that are part
of the cable not the kind you bolt on, well anyway I pulled on the cable and
it pulled right out of the end that went to the battery.
One way to tell if it's the starter or the solenoid is to use a pair of
pliers or such and touch both sides of the solenoid at the same time, This
makes a direct path from the battery to the starter. Use rubber handled
Pliers though and be ready for a pretty good spark. Make sue you only touch
the two outside terminals. If it turns the starter over then it's the
solenoid or the wire to the solenoid from the ignition switch. If it still
does not turn over then it's either the cable to the starter, the nut
holding the cable to the starter, or the starter.

Leland

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Mail From: ffacker (Fred Facker)

I tried Leland's trick of shorting across the solenoid posts. Still nothing. I went ahead and picked up both a new starter and solenoid this morning. Already swapped the solenoid. I just get the clack sound. I had to grab two neighbors to help me roll the car up the driveway and into the garage. I'm about to go jack it up and start on the starter swap. Any advice on getting it off of there without taking my Tri-Ys off? It looks like if I take off that cross-member that runs under the oil pan I may be able to finesse it out of there, but I guess I won't know until I try.

Thanks for the advice.
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Mail From: ffacker (Fred Facker)

It was the starter. Man those things are heavy when you're laying on your back at an awkward angle. Once I finally finagled it back up through the headers, transmission cooling lines and steering linkage, I had to take a break because I literally couldn't raise my arms to screw in the bolts.

It's amazing how electrical components are so touchy. You replace one that's failing and it will kick two other components out of commission.

I'm running again. I'm still waiting to try my radiator flush and 160-degree thermostat in heavy traffic to decide if I'm ordering the electric fan or not.
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Mail From: tcob32256 (john ljh)

Hi Fred,
I am glad to hear that you got it running again. I know what you mean about
doing it on your back and trying to get it around all the other things. I
had to put a 9" center section in the other day under my 66 Mustang Racecar.
That was fun just barley enough room to move and trying to pick up and
maneuver a 70 Lbs of dead weight with one hand and a little help from the
other. NOT fun!!! My chest hurt for days from strained muscles. As far as
the starters I just bought a High torque starter off Ebay, Brand New for
around $50.00.

Leland

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Mail From: walt (Walt Boeninger)



john ljh wrote:
> Hi Fred,
> I am glad to hear that you got it running again. I know what you mean about
> doing it on your back and trying to get it around all the other things. I
> had to put a 9" center section in the other day under my 66 Mustang Racecar.

I used to use my floor jack by balancing the pumpkin steady, and using
my leg to raise the jack .... then I got one of these:

store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=sum-900702

(Shows a GM version, couldn't find the Ford 9" version listed )

This is one of those things you always wondered why you waited
so long to get....... I swapped rearends at least a dozen times
before I bought one...

So what other tools have you guys finally bought and then wondered
why the hell you didn't buy one years agony?

Walt

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Mail From: tcob32256 (john ljh)

Hi Walt,

Thanks for the info on the center section adapter. I will probably make
one.
I recently bought a Tranny jack and a Cam bearing installation tool. Both
will pay for themselves the first time I use them.

Leland

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Mail From: jem (John Miller)

> So what other tools have you guys finally bought and then wondered
> why the hell you didn't buy one years agony?

I spent three months of evenings on my back scraping and grinding the
bottom of my '64 Country Sedan clean, priming it, painting it, and
undercoating it.

Never again. Never effin' again.

So when the '65 Mustang convertible showed up, one of the first things I
did was to trot off to the steel supplier for a bunch of stuff to make a
rotisserie. Not fancy, no casters, no adjustments, if I want to hang
something other than an early Mustang on it I'd have to make new
hangers, but it's worked beautifully for what I needed to do on that car.

On a project like that it's the *only* way to go.

(The wagon's now in the hands of the body guy. Finally - literally ten
years later - the newspaper I'd had all the trim wrapped in was dated
December 1996. The car had near-matching dents in the very rear corners
of the rear quarters, just in front of the bumper. My father had put
those there a quarter-century ago, one on the phone pole in front of our
house and one on a lamppost outside a furniture store - a car with five
feet of rear overhang has some serious side-to-side swing when pulling
out from parking spaces. At any rate, the dings are now gone.)

John.

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Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)


On Mar 18, 2007, at 8:43 PM, John Miller wrote:

> So when the '65 Mustang convertible showed up, one of the first
> things I
> did was to trot off to the steel supplier for a bunch of stuff to
> make a
> rotisserie. Not fancy, no casters, no adjustments, if I want to hang
> something other than an early Mustang on it I'd have to make new
> hangers, but it's worked beautifully for what I needed to do on
> that car.


Do you have plans for that? I'd be interested. What did you have to
remove from the car to flip it over?

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Mail From: Linc (Linc)

Do you have pictures of this thing in action? I don't get it by
looking at the summit pictures.

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Walt
Boeninger
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 9:24 PM
To: Linc at quicklinc.com
Subject: Re: [CM] Won't start



john ljh wrote:
> Hi Fred,
> I am glad to hear that you got it running again. I know what you mean
> about doing it on your back and trying to get it around all the other
> things. I had to put a 9" center section in the other day under my 66
Mustang Racecar.

I used to use my floor jack by balancing the pumpkin steady, and using my
leg to raise the jack .... then I got one of these:

store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=sum-900702

(Shows a GM version, couldn't find the Ford 9" version listed )

This is one of those things you always wondered why you waited so long to
get....... I swapped rearends at least a dozen times before I bought one...

So what other tools have you guys finally bought and then wondered why the
hell you didn't buy one years agony?

Walt


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lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: jem (John Miller)

>> So when the '65 Mustang convertible showed up, one of the first
>>> things I did was to trot off to the steel supplier for a bunch of
>>> stuff to make a rotisserie. Not fancy, no casters, no
>>> adjustments, if I want to hang something other than an early
>>> Mustang on it I'd have to make new hangers, but it's worked
>>> beautifully for what I needed to do on that car.
>
> Do you have plans for that? I'd be interested. What did you have to
> remove from the car to flip it over?

I don't have any plans, but I'll try to get some stand-alone pix of the
rotisserie by itself and send out some measurements of key parts.

In this case 'remove' wasn't an issue, the car was a rolling tub with a
'90 5.0 laying loose in the engine compartment when I got it. The doors
and front fenders were missing (some of it showed up later) and there
was no transmission. The engine came out, I pulled the hood and front
cap, the rear trim, pulled the top, tossed the interior in the garbage,
gave away most of the suspension, and hauled the shell up to a dip tank
in Windsor CA. It's got enough rust and previous sloppy repair that it
wasn't a candidate for a real restoration.

I didn't build the setup I've got to be able to handle a car w/engine,
transmission, and rear axle on it. I suppose some of the commercial
setups could do that, and this one's probably strong enough to handle
another 1000lb of gear, but if you're adding and removing stuff while on
the rotisserie the CG of the stuff you're adding vs the axis on which
the car's pivoting can affect stability and the ability to rotate the car.

My first thought was to pick up a couple Harbor Freight engine stands
and chop them up for the pedestals, but then I realized the pivot on the
HF stands isn't parallel to the ground, nor were they tall enough, so
the surgery required was going to be ridiculous. Then I started
scrounging the 'net for plans, and found a few things. I ended up
borrowing ideas from a bunch of places, this guy's car brackets:

autorestorer.com/articles/art106.html

but I just made simple floor pedestals to be able to use what I already
had laying around.

I haven't gotten around to doing a real blog on this car yet, but some
pix at:

milleredp.com/~jem/image/65vert/

I wouldn't hang a convertible on one without reinforcing the door
openings, which the guys at the dip-shop did before forklifting the
thing off the trailer. Once set up in the garage I shimmed the car
level and measured diagonals from front lower control arm to rear spring
front hanger - the car was square horizontally and vertically to
within 1/16in pretty much all the way around.

To get the vertical dimensions, forty feet of vinyl tubing, some wire
ties, and some food coloring to check cross-car and diagonal level:

milleredp.com/~jem/image/65vert/front_leveling.jpg

What the car looks like upside down:
milleredp.com/~jem/image/65vert/flip_1.jpg

All the extraneous clutter is *almost* gone from the garage, soon
nothing in there but cars and a lift:
milleredp.com/~jem/image/65vert/flip_3.jpg

And the reason you do all that is 'cause it makes stuff like this a lot
easier:
milleredp.com/~jem/image/65vert/flintstone_1.jpg

John.

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Mail From: tcob32256 (john ljh)

Hi everyone,

I have a book that shows you how to make a rotisserie. It is in a book
called The Race's Guide to Fabricating shop equipment. Basically it is in
an I shape laying on the floor made out of 2"x2"x.120 square tubing, with
another a piece of 2"x2" square tubing going straight up from the middle of
the I. At the top of the piece the is straight up is a round piece on pipe
3 1/2"x3/16" in diameter thiese are all welded together, then you have
another piece of pipe 3"x3/16" in diameter that goes inside the other piece.
On the end of the 3" piece of pipe you weld on a 12"x8"x 1/4" plate. This
plate is drilled so you can put 2-1/2"x3" U Bolts through it. You then run
a piece of 3"x5"x3/16" pipe through the U Bolts and figure a way to attach
it to your Frame. Of course you will need two of them, one for each end.

Leland



>From: John Miller <jem at milleredp.com>
>Reply-To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
><classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca>
>To: Leland Hepker <tcob32256 at hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [CM] Won't start
>Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 11:19:19 -0700
>
> >> So when the '65 Mustang convertible showed up, one of the first
> >>> things I did was to trot off to the steel supplier for a bunch of
> >>> stuff to make a rotisserie. Not fancy, no casters, no
> >>> adjustments, if I want to hang something other than an early
> >>> Mustang on it I'd have to make new hangers, but it's worked
> >>> beautifully for what I needed to do on that car.
> >
> > Do you have plans for that? I'd be interested. What did you have to
> > remove from the car to flip it over?
>
>I don't have any plans, but I'll try to get some stand-alone pix of the
>rotisserie by itself and send out some measurements of key parts.
>
>

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