Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Michael 'Moose' Dinn (email redacted)


Hello!

Welcome to the new home for the CLASSIC-MUSTANGS mailing list.

I don't have things like digest(s) turned on yet; bear with me as I get
things moved in to their new home.



--
Michael 'Moose' Dinn \ If you haven't heard of the net by
(email redacted) \ now, chances are you're some redneck
iSTAR Internet Inc. \ who stares at his orange juice every
(902) 481-4524 Voice \ morning because it says 'concentrate'...

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Scott Hollenbeck (email redacted)

At 01:47 PM 10/21/96 PDT, Michael 'Moose' Dinn wrote:
>
>Hello!
>
>Welcome to the new home for the CLASSIC-MUSTANGS mailing list.

What's this "new home" stuff?

This isn't directed at anyone in particular, but when I gave up
admin of the list to Jeremy Wilson a few months ago one of the
stipulations was that the new home should be stable -- I didn't
want to see the list bouncing from site to site. That makes it
hard on subscribers AND it makes it hard for new folks to find
the list.

Moose, I don't know you, so I apologize if something happened with
Jeremy and you stepped in to save the day. But what's the story?

----->
Scott A. Hollenbeck (mailtoemail redacted))
Xerox Special Information Systems
Arlington, Virginia, USA 22209
(703) 284-3865
1995 DGGM Impala SS, 1970 428 Cobra Jet Mach 1 Mustang

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Jeremy Wilson (email redacted)

At 07:18 AM 10/22/96 -0300, you wrote:
>This isn't directed at anyone in particular, but when I gave up
>admin of the list to Jeremy Wilson a few months ago one of the
>stipulations was that the new home should be stable -- I didn't
>want to see the list bouncing from site to site. That makes it
>hard on subscribers AND it makes it hard for new folks to find
>the list.

It was stable at the time. Unfortunately things rarely stay that way. One
of things I asked for when I was downsized was that I have six months to
arrage a new home for the mustang list, and they agreed.

Well, this past weekend they pulled the list without telling me, and I had
to find a new place quickly.

I apologize for this, as it makes me look incredibly flakey - I don't enjoy
this problem either. Unfortunately the brass at iSTAR don't care about the
500+ members of the list. I'm working on getting the address aliased at
the very least, so as to reduce the problems of migration.

--
(email redacted) - Jeremy Wilson - Atari 2600 Fanatic, Mustang Lover
inforamp.net/~xeno/trade-o-matic - ~xeno/wallet
"Give me $6.34 and I'll build you Utopia!" - Totenbuch Christ

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)

Jermey,

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. This type of thing is happening to a lot
of people these days. Don't let anyone give you heat about the list.

You obviously have your own worries. You have done an excellent job
with the list in the short time that you controlled it.

Best of Luck,

Brian

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Michael J. Kupec (email redacted)

Thanks a whole bunch for taking over the list!
Just let us all know how to resubscribe (or will it be done automatically?)
when you get things working.

Michael

" I live with constant fear and danger every day. . .
And sometimes she lets me go four-wheeling! "

"Get in, Sit down, Shut up, and Hold on!"

Michael J. Kupec ((email redacted))
Management & Data Systems, Lockheed Martin Corporation
Reston, Virginia, USA (703) 680-6903
1964 1/2 260 Convertible w/PS, PB, & Power Top
1965 289 HP "K" Coupe w/PS, PB, & Pony Int. (Early '65, not a GT)
1970 Bronco 351M (yes a "M" as in big Mother!)

----------
> From: Michael 'Moose' Dinn <(email redacted)>
> To: Multiple recipients of list <(email redacted)>
> Subject: Welcome Back!
> Date: Monday, October 21, 1996 4:51 PM
>
>
> Hello!
>
> Welcome to the new home for the CLASSIC-MUSTANGS mailing list.
>
> I don't have things like digest(s) turned on yet; bear with me as I get
> things moved in to their new home.
>
>
>
> --
> Michael 'Moose' Dinn \ If you haven't heard of the net by
> (email redacted) \ now, chances are you're some redneck
> iSTAR Internet Inc. \ who stares at his orange juice every
> (902) 481-4524 Voice \ morning because it says 'concentrate'...

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Jeremy Wilson (email redacted)

I thought the list was awfully quiet... Turns out it was screwed up.
Anyway, the messages seem to be flowing again.

Hope I didn't miss anything really cool! <g>

--
(email redacted) - Jeremy Wilson - Atari 2600 Fanatic, Mustang Lover
Want to see what's in my wallet? inforamp.net/~xeno/wallet

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) ((email redacted))

Replace your throw-out bearing and presure plate as well.

On Wed, 17 Jul 2002 08:17:10 -0600, craig a cooper <(email redacted)>
wrote :

> Hey Folks,
>
> Quick question: My clutch is slipping and I have a buddy who knows how
> to replace a clutch. He has never done an old Mustang before, so is
> there anything that's tricky about this replacement, and is there
> something else I should be replacing when it is all apart?
>
> thanks in advance...
> Craig.
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs
>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Gary Dempsey)

Any 66 - 70 AM radio will work just fine just make sure it's not a console
radio they have longer shafts and use your correct 68 knobs.

On Mon, 25 Nov 2002 10:54:45 -0700, "m russell" <(email redacted)> wrote :

>
> Since we're on the topic -
>
> Does anyone have a 68 radio they'd like to sell?
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Get 25MB, POP3, Spam Filtering with LYCOS MAIL PLUS for $19.95/year.
> login.mail.lycos.com/brandPage.shtml?pageId=plus&ref=lmtplus
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs
>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Gary Dempsey)

Yes it will, But if you have your rear view mirror mounted correctly in
your coupe it will be in the wrong place in the convert.

On Tue, 24 Dec 2002 21:39:45 +0200, "Jeffery" <(email redacted)> wrote :

> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>
> Hi there,
>
> I just purchased a 68 convertible for restoration and was wondering
whether
> the front windscreen from a 68 coupe will fit in my convertible. Also
since
> my convertible came as a six could I also transfer the V8 from the coupe
to
> my convertible with ease. Is my suspension etc geared to handle a V8 motor
> since it originally came as a six? I am aware that I will also have to
> change the diff/gearbox.
>
> Any recommendations/advice would be appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Jeff (South Africa)
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Gary Dempsey)

If the car was only painted acouple years ago and been in the garage I
dought the paint has faded much. If its enamel paint (single stage)then I
would go from just the quarter panel to the door and to the top of the
quarter then the truck lid. If it's base clear (2 stage) paint is more cost
but can be blended in easier.

On Tue, 31 Dec 2002 06:15:31 -0800, (email redacted) wrote :

>
> Ok everyone, I think we all have one thing in common, we're all Mustangers
> here, how about some Mustang stuff?
>
> Some kid (I suspect) recently took a rock to my '65 fastback temporarily
> parked in front of my house for a day.
> I now have a nice jagged complete removal of paint along 2' of the
driver's
> side rear quarter panel top ridge.
> Just had a very expensive paint job put on the car two years prior. Man!
>
> I just had taken full coverage off the car as it was now garage queen
> status and not driven hardly at all anymore.
>
> So for anyone out there with auto finishing experience, how extensive,
> typically, does the paint repair have to extend out?
> To the whole quarter panel and trunk? How is that usually handled?
>
> This repair will have to be out of pocket at this point since taking it
out
> of the hide of the suspected brat won't match the color of the car!
>
> Thank you all in advance.
>
> Jesse Saldana
> Las Vegas, NV
>
> 65 Fastback rangoon red.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs
>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Ronsoy)

Hey guys,

I am wondering would it be possible to add a second tank to your already
existing compressor? Seems the biggest problem with the compressors is the
volume....if you have one already could that be the way?...If there are no
leaks and a shut off valve maybe run time wont be so bad all the time.


Just brainstorming...

Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <(email redacted)>
To: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 10:35 PM
Subject: [CM] Re: Workshop air compressors


> Hi Wal,
>
> I bought one of the lower cost 2 stage uprights 3 years ago (approx. 5
hp).
> It is considered the farm series by Cambell Hausfield. Around $500. The
> issue is that the pump isn't large enough to keep up with larger
consumption
> air tools like a d/a sander. I've used it a lot for spraying
(woodworking),
> but if I had the money I would elect to get an oil filled, larger pump.
> You're probably talking around $1200 for a really good one. For the
weekend
> worker though, a $500 large tank upright may just be the ticket.
>
> The other thing I would consider is running plastic or steel lines around
> the shop with quick disconnects. I didn't do that and I'm always unwinding
> the hoses. Just make sure you shut down both the compressor power switch
and
> air supply line everyday. I've heard of compressors being fried and even
> starting fires from a broken air line, since the compressor would run
> continuously.
>
> David
>
>
> Walt Boeninger writes:
>
> > I have a 5 or 6 HP 30 gallon single stage. Your typical
> > Sears $300.... it's not up to blasting.....
> >
> > I understand that dual stage compressors are much quieter.
> >
> > Don't try to save money. I'm on my third compressor in
> > 20 years and still not satisfied. I now envision a 5-10
> > HP Ingersoll Rand, 60 gallon, dual stage, vertical...
> >
> > Walt
> > -----
> >
> > Wal Marshall wrote:
> >>
> >> Guys,
> >>
> >> I'm not far from completing my new workshop and one of the first new
items
> >> to
> >> go in will be an air compressor and associated tooling such as tyre
gauges,
> >> spray gun, sand blaster, air impact wrench etc.
> >>
> >> For a home workshop, whats the general opinion on the best size
compressor
> >> to go for in the price vs performance trade off? There are a lot of
cheap 2
> >> and 3 hp models around, but my instinct is that I could end up
regretting
> >> buying one that small...? should I be aiming closer to 6- hp? Any
thoughts
> >> on minimum reservoir tank size?
> >>
> >> Cheers
> >>
> >> Wal Marshall
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > (email redacted)
> > mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: cobra0375 (Gary Dempsey)


Try American National I had a stated value policy with them until I sold my
68.


On Wed, 07 May 2003 14:26:35 -0500, "Franck, Don J SOPUS"
<(email redacted)> wrote :

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
> this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
>
>
> I am looking for a stated value policy for my 69 Mach 1 and my 75 Bronco.
> They are both daily drivers. I am getting canned by Farmers and am trying
> to get a quote from State Farm. Any other suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Don Franck
> (email redacted)
> 1971 Pantera #1777 / 1969 Mustang Mach 1 / 1975 Bronco
> Wk 713-277-8512 / Wk Fax 713-277-8551
> HM 281-856-8049 / Hm Fax 281-859-9531
> <geocities.com/francdj/>
> <geocities.com/broncopit/>
>
>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: cobra0375 (Gary Dempsey)

When you do your brakes I would replace the dot3 with dot5..... much better
and long life of parts.

On Thu, 22 May 2003 08:04:29 -0700, "Sexsmith, Scott"
<(email redacted)> wrote :

> Re the brake drums and wheel cylinders. Take the drums to a reputable
> machine shop that does turning of the drums and have them checked. Of my
> four only one needed to be replaced and I found that used for 20% of the
> price of a new one. If the car has been sitting for 10 years your going
to
> have tons of water in the brake system. Plan on 4 new wheel cylinders.
On
> my 65 they were $18 each for new ones. Also the master cylinder should be
> replaced for the same reason.
>
> I'll let others more knowledgeable answer your suspension questions.
>
> A good motto would be "If ain't broke, don't fix it."
>
> Scott
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Witso [mailtoemail redacted)]
> Sent: Thursday, January 01, 1970 10:01 PM
> To: Classic Mustangs
> Subject: [CM] Suspension and Brake rebuild questions
>
>
> The welding is almost done on the chassis/body on my 65 and in part to
> get rear wheels under the car to move it around, I'm thinking that
> rebuilding the suspension and brakes is the next logical step to
> putting this thing back together. This car has been partially
> disassembled and sitting outside for the better part of 10 years and
> maybe more. Also this will be a driver and not a show car- I just want
> to replace what should be replaced for functional reasons (not
> aesthetic or for originality). I pulled out one of the Mustang parts
> catalogs and started adding up parts that I'm thinking could be
> replaced and I got to a shocking sum of money. Then I started wondering
> do I really need the super front suspension rebuild kit or not? Can I
> salvage some of the brake attaching hardware by cleaning off the rust?
> What else may not need to be replaced?
>
> I know you can't tell me definitively without looking at the condition
> of what is there- but what are the "must do's"? And what are some
> things that I could look at to see if I really do need to replace or
> not? I'll do ball joints for sure- but how do I tell if I can re-use my
> lower or upper control arms? I assume I'll need new drums all around.
> Without taking them apart I would assume that it would be better to
> replace wheel cylinders rather than try to rebuild them? And how about
> springs- do I need to replace rear springs? fronts? What else?
>
> T again IA
>
> Ben
> 70 Mach 1
> 65 Convert
> 66 Convert
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: cobra0375 (Gary Dempsey)

No DOT5 is syn.

On Thu, 22 May 2003 08:31:46 -0700, "Sexsmith, Scott"
<(email redacted)> wrote :

> Skip the dot4? Are 3 and 5 interchangeable as I phase out the 3 currently
> in my system?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Dempsey [mailtoemail redacted)]
> Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 8:29 AM
> To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
> Subject: RE: [CM] Suspension and Brake rebuild questions
>
>
> When you do your brakes I would replace the dot3 with dot5..... much
better
> and long life of parts.
>
> On Thu, 22 May 2003 08:04:29 -0700, "Sexsmith, Scott"
> <(email redacted)> wrote :
>
> > Re the brake drums and wheel cylinders. Take the drums to a reputable
> > machine shop that does turning of the drums and have them checked. Of
> > my four only one needed to be replaced and I found that used for 20%
> > of the price of a new one. If the car has been sitting for 10 years
> > your going
> to
> > have tons of water in the brake system. Plan on 4 new wheel
> > cylinders.
> On
> > my 65 they were $18 each for new ones. Also the master cylinder
> > should be replaced for the same reason.
> >
> > I'll let others more knowledgeable answer your suspension questions.
> >
> > A good motto would be "If ain't broke, don't fix it."
> >
> > Scott
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ben Witso [mailtoemail redacted)]
> > Sent: Thursday, January 01, 1970 10:01 PM
> > To: Classic Mustangs
> > Subject: [CM] Suspension and Brake rebuild questions
> >
> >
> > The welding is almost done on the chassis/body on my 65 and in part to
> > get rear wheels under the car to move it around, I'm thinking that
> > rebuilding the suspension and brakes is the next logical step to
> > putting this thing back together. This car has been partially
> > disassembled and sitting outside for the better part of 10 years and
> > maybe more. Also this will be a driver and not a show car- I just want
> > to replace what should be replaced for functional reasons (not
> > aesthetic or for originality). I pulled out one of the Mustang parts
> > catalogs and started adding up parts that I'm thinking could be
> > replaced and I got to a shocking sum of money. Then I started wondering
> > do I really need the super front suspension rebuild kit or not? Can I
> > salvage some of the brake attaching hardware by cleaning off the rust?
> > What else may not need to be replaced?
> >
> > I know you can't tell me definitively without looking at the condition
> > of what is there- but what are the "must do's"? And what are some
> > things that I could look at to see if I really do need to replace or
> > not? I'll do ball joints for sure- but how do I tell if I can re-use my
> > lower or upper control arms? I assume I'll need new drums all around.
> > Without taking them apart I would assume that it would be better to
> > replace wheel cylinders rather than try to rebuild them? And how about
> > springs- do I need to replace rear springs? fronts? What else?
> >
> > T again IA
> >
> > Ben
> > 70 Mach 1
> > 65 Convert
> > 66 Convert
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list (email redacted)
> > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list (email redacted)
> > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: walt.boeninger (Walt Boeninger)

Hmmm... unless I am totally mistaken, DOT 5.1 is syn.
and DOT 5.0 is silicone ......

Let's go google......

motorspot.com/dot51.html is synthetic

howstuffworks.com/question451.htm

Describes DOT 3,4,5


Walt
-----

Gary Dempsey wrote:
>
> No DOT5 is syn.
>
> On Thu, 22 May 2003 08:31:46 -0700, "Sexsmith, Scott"
> <(email redacted)> wrote :
>
> > Skip the dot4? Are 3 and 5 interchangeable as I phase out the 3 currently
> > in my system?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Gary Dempsey [mailtoemail redacted)]
> > Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 8:29 AM
> > To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
> > Subject: RE: [CM] Suspension and Brake rebuild questions
> >
> >
> > When you do your brakes I would replace the dot3 with dot5..... much
> better
> > and long life of parts.
> >
> > On Thu, 22 May 2003 08:04:29 -0700, "Sexsmith, Scott"
> > <(email redacted)> wrote :
> >
> > > Re the brake drums and wheel cylinders. Take the drums to a reputable
> > > machine shop that does turning of the drums and have them checked. Of
> > > my four only one needed to be replaced and I found that used for 20%
> > > of the price of a new one. If the car has been sitting for 10 years
> > > your going
> > to
> > > have tons of water in the brake system. Plan on 4 new wheel
> > > cylinders.
> > On
> > > my 65 they were $18 each for new ones. Also the master cylinder
> > > should be replaced for the same reason.
> > >
> > > I'll let others more knowledgeable answer your suspension questions.
> > >
> > > A good motto would be "If ain't broke, don't fix it."
> > >
> > > Scott
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Ben Witso [mailtoemail redacted)]
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 01, 1970 10:01 PM
> > > To: Classic Mustangs
> > > Subject: [CM] Suspension and Brake rebuild questions
> > >
> > >
> > > The welding is almost done on the chassis/body on my 65 and in part to
> > > get rear wheels under the car to move it around, I'm thinking that
> > > rebuilding the suspension and brakes is the next logical step to
> > > putting this thing back together. This car has been partially
> > > disassembled and sitting outside for the better part of 10 years and
> > > maybe more. Also this will be a driver and not a show car- I just want
> > > to replace what should be replaced for functional reasons (not
> > > aesthetic or for originality). I pulled out one of the Mustang parts
> > > catalogs and started adding up parts that I'm thinking could be
> > > replaced and I got to a shocking sum of money. Then I started wondering
> > > do I really need the super front suspension rebuild kit or not? Can I
> > > salvage some of the brake attaching hardware by cleaning off the rust?
> > > What else may not need to be replaced?
> > >
> > > I know you can't tell me definitively without looking at the condition
> > > of what is there- but what are the "must do's"? And what are some
> > > things that I could look at to see if I really do need to replace or
> > > not? I'll do ball joints for sure- but how do I tell if I can re-use my
> > > lower or upper control arms? I assume I'll need new drums all around.
> > > Without taking them apart I would assume that it would be better to
> > > replace wheel cylinders rather than try to rebuild them? And how about
> > > springs- do I need to replace rear springs? fronts? What else?
> > >
> > > T again IA
> > >
> > > Ben
> > > 70 Mach 1
> > > 65 Convert
> > > 66 Convert
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Classic-mustangs mailing list (email redacted)
> > > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Classic-mustangs mailing list (email redacted)
> > > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list (email redacted)
> > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > (email redacted)
> > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

--

Regards
--------------
Walt Boeninger (408) 447-1823
Hewlett-Packard - Cupertino
itrc.hp.com


HP?s number one priority is customer satisfaction. We strive to deliver the
best customer support services in the industry. Please e-mail any comments
or suggestions to my manager, Tony Simmons at (email redacted).
In case you haven't heard, the HP IT Resource Center at itrc.hp.com
allows you to search our extensive Technical Knowledge Base, download patches,
participate in HP Discussion Forums, open new calls, view existing calls and
even troubleshoot a new problem using our Knowledge Trees.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: cobra0375 (Gary Dempsey)

Thats right my mistake 5.0 is silicone.

On Thu, 22 May 2003 14:59:59 -0700, Walt Boeninger <(email redacted)>
wrote :

> Hmmm... unless I am totally mistaken, DOT 5.1 is syn.
> and DOT 5.0 is silicone ......
>
> Let's go google......
>
> motorspot.com/dot51.html is synthetic
>
> howstuffworks.com/question451.htm
>
> Describes DOT 3,4,5
>
>
> Walt
> -----
>
> Gary Dempsey wrote:
> >
> > No DOT5 is syn.
> >
> > On Thu, 22 May 2003 08:31:46 -0700, "Sexsmith, Scott"
> > <(email redacted)> wrote :
> >
> > > Skip the dot4? Are 3 and 5 interchangeable as I phase out the 3
currently
> > > in my system?
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Gary Dempsey [mailtoemail redacted)]
> > > Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 8:29 AM
> > > To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
> > > Subject: RE: [CM] Suspension and Brake rebuild questions
> > >
> > >
> > > When you do your brakes I would replace the dot3 with dot5..... much
> > better
> > > and long life of parts.
> > >
> > > On Thu, 22 May 2003 08:04:29 -0700, "Sexsmith, Scott"
> > > <(email redacted)> wrote :
> > >
> > > > Re the brake drums and wheel cylinders. Take the drums to a
reputable
> > > > machine shop that does turning of the drums and have them checked.
Of
> > > > my four only one needed to be replaced and I found that used for 20%
> > > > of the price of a new one. If the car has been sitting for 10 years
> > > > your going
> > > to
> > > > have tons of water in the brake system. Plan on 4 new wheel
> > > > cylinders.
> > > On
> > > > my 65 they were $18 each for new ones. Also the master cylinder
> > > > should be replaced for the same reason.
> > > >
> > > > I'll let others more knowledgeable answer your suspension questions.
> > > >
> > > > A good motto would be "If ain't broke, don't fix it."
> > > >
> > > > Scott
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Ben Witso [mailtoemail redacted)]
> > > > Sent: Thursday, January 01, 1970 10:01 PM
> > > > To: Classic Mustangs
> > > > Subject: [CM] Suspension and Brake rebuild questions
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > The welding is almost done on the chassis/body on my 65 and in part
to
> > > > get rear wheels under the car to move it around, I'm thinking that
> > > > rebuilding the suspension and brakes is the next logical step to
> > > > putting this thing back together. This car has been partially
> > > > disassembled and sitting outside for the better part of 10 years and
> > > > maybe more. Also this will be a driver and not a show car- I just
want
> > > > to replace what should be replaced for functional reasons (not
> > > > aesthetic or for originality). I pulled out one of the Mustang parts
> > > > catalogs and started adding up parts that I'm thinking could be
> > > > replaced and I got to a shocking sum of money. Then I started
wondering
> > > > do I really need the super front suspension rebuild kit or not? Can
I
> > > > salvage some of the brake attaching hardware by cleaning off the
rust?
> > > > What else may not need to be replaced?
> > > >
> > > > I know you can't tell me definitively without looking at the
condition
> > > > of what is there- but what are the "must do's"? And what are some
> > > > things that I could look at to see if I really do need to replace or
> > > > not? I'll do ball joints for sure- but how do I tell if I can re-
use my
> > > > lower or upper control arms? I assume I'll need new drums all
around.
> > > > Without taking them apart I would assume that it would be better to
> > > > replace wheel cylinders rather than try to rebuild them? And how
about
> > > > springs- do I need to replace rear springs? fronts? What else?
> > > >
> > > > T again IA
> > > >
> > > > Ben
> > > > 70 Mach 1
> > > > 65 Convert
> > > > 66 Convert
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Classic-mustangs mailing list (email redacted)
> > > > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Classic-mustangs mailing list (email redacted)
> > > > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Classic-mustangs mailing list (email redacted)
> > > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > > (email redacted)
> > > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > (email redacted)
> > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> --
>
> Regards
> --------------
> Walt Boeninger (408) 447-1823
> Hewlett-Packard - Cupertino
> itrc.hp.com
>
>
> HP?s number one priority is customer satisfaction. We strive to deliver
the
> best customer support services in the industry. Please e-mail any
comments
> or suggestions to my manager, Tony Simmons at (email redacted).
> In case you haven't heard, the HP IT Resource Center at
itrc.hp.com
> allows you to search our extensive Technical Knowledge Base, download
patches,
> participate in HP Discussion Forums, open new calls, view existing calls
and
> even troubleshoot a new problem using our Knowledge Trees.
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>
>

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Mail From: cobra0375 (Gary Dempsey)

I had a similiar problem and changed from Zerex antifreeze to Prestone and
never had the problem again.

On Fri, 23 May 2003 00:17:47 -0700 (PDT), (email redacted) (Harry
Knapp) wrote :

> My 69 mustang, is overheating a small amount. the temperature gauge
> usually is stable in the center. at present, it moves up to 2/3 to 3/4,
> and then backdown to center. i think the thermostat is starting to
> malfunction.
> you can reply directly or post. thanks.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>
>

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Mail From: Siwik (Randy Siwik)


Ok, my turn to play.

The 10, 9.5 or 5 to 1 would always produce the
same numbers (relative to each other) of CR in
a sealed cylinder. Now, throw in valve lift,
duration, heat and other such variables and it
can muddy the waters real fast.

This could account for the different numbers
in cylinder pressure in Rick's example.

Now throw on a blower or 'forced induction'
and we can really get a headache....

Randy-
Central Ohio


Rick Lindsay wrote:

> My '30 Chevrolet has a 5:1 CR motor at 80psi. My
> E30M3 has a 10.25:1 CR motor at 160psi. Scott's
> motor when healthy at 9:1 CR makes 180psi. Lots of
> things going on, many we are ignoring.
>
> rick
>
> > If you made me guess, that would be my guess. :-)
> >
> > rick
>
>
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Mail From: dkidds ((email redacted))

So if you're going to be putting factory air back on, and you have a new 3
row radiator with shroud would you recommend going with a Flex-a-lite and no
clutch fan? What will give the best overall cooling?

David




Chris Kelly writes:

> I like the large blade Flex-a-lite flex fans. They move a lot of air a
> idle, unlike lots of other flex fans.
> At 05:33 PM 6/3/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>>(email redacted) wrote:
>>>
>>> i have a 66 , with a 289 bored .040 over......gonna need good cooling
>>
>>Then the first thing to do is install a radiator from a mid seventies,
>>351, Granada. I have PICS if you want to see what it looks like.
>>
>>I have several vehicles that HAD clutch fans. I got tired of them
>>dying. Mostly they lost friction and I had one that froze.
>>
>>I tried electrical only once; inclusive. I've gone to Ford, OEM flex
>>fans on the five I currently have running.
>>
>>I'm in the S CA desert.
>>
>>Ray
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>>(email redacted)
>>lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
> ========The Kelly's==============
> Chris - (email redacted)
> Debbie - (email redacted)
> users.abilene.com/~dkelly
> Merkel, Texas
> =================================
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

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Mail From: richsilv (Rich Silva)


At one point on my '65 (while I was trying to save money before I figured
out that the floor panels were also rotted... But that's a different story)
I worked on JB Welding the panel in place... I used a bunch of pop-rivets
to hold it in place... Didnt look "too bad" (once I spent some number of
hours tweaking it to fit exactly in place)... But my body man convinced me
he should tear it out and weld it in... Boy did his job look so much nicer
than mine... I was depending on the glove box and dash panel to hide most
of my mistakes... and the "discerning eye" could tell that the seam along
the lower edge was "thicker".

I'd advise finding someone to do a nice job of welding it in place for you...

At 09:29 PM 6/10/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>I think JB weld would be a mistake. I won't hold and would be kinda ugly
>
>Cliff Daniel
>Tempe, AZ
>
>66 Fastback
>members.cox.net/cwdaniel/stang%20page/indexstang.htm
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: (email redacted)
>[mailtoemail redacted)]On Behalf Of
>Sexsmith, Scott
>Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 6:20 AM
>To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs '
>Subject: [CM] Radio/dash repair panel installation?
>
>
>Has anyone had any success in installing a dash repair panel around the
>original radio opening on a 65? The PO cut the dash pretty badly installing
>a cassette player and we'd like to try to repair it with one of those
>replacement panels. Unfortunately I don't have access to a welder so I'm
>wondering if something like JB Weld might be strong enough to hold that
>panel in.
>
>Scott
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>(email redacted)
>lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>(email redacted)
>lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

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Mail From: dkidds ((email redacted))

I am in the process of adding shoulder harnesses to my 67 fastback (front
and rear). There is a lot of information out on www.vintage-mustang.com.
Search for shoulder harness or Andover (retailer that a lot of the guys are
buying from) and make sure you set the time period to greater than 6 months
back to get most of the past posts.

Here are a few links that might be useful:

andoauto.com/retrofit.htm

home1.gte.net/web105k5/drivers_seatbelt_installed_small.jpg

stephanies-mustang.com/seatbelt.htm



Also, Juliano's has belts and installation details on their site at:

julianos.com



Some welding will be required. You will need to install a backing plate
behind the roof mount and if you move the floor retractor, you will also
have to add a new mount to the side of the door sill / plate so that it will
sit towards the rear and out of the way.

Please keep us posted on your progress.

David







Eric E. Neumeister writes:

> Agreed, I did not look up any such info and have the belts so they are
> comfortable. I'm happy with what I've done, just don't want anyone
> duplicating and saying I should have done the research, because I did for my
> self, not any one else.
>
> Eric
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "DS" <(email redacted)>
> To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
> <(email redacted)>
> Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2003 12:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [CM] Seat belts...
>
>
> I would think that you would break before the mounting point. My concern
> would be that the belt is in the proper position across the body so bad
> things wouldn't happen in a crash. I'm no expert, but this info is probably
> on some gov't web site somewhere.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric E. Neumeister" <(email redacted)>
> To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
> <(email redacted)>
> Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2003 5:00 AM
> Subject: Re: [CM] Seat belts...
>
>
>> Well, with the '66 there is no mounting point for the top of the 3-point.
>> I've seen kits that welded an attachment point below the rear-side
> windows,
>> but if you are average height like me that seems a bit low. I went ahead,
>> when I had the car completely apart, and had a mounting point fabricated
>> into the rail above the door. This works, it is kind of a pain getting
> the
>> kids in the back seat, but it works. I know there are physics involved
> with
>> getting the mounting in the right place with the right amount of tensile
>> strength and since mine was pretty much seat of the pants "that looks like
>> it'll hold" I would not recommend it to anyone because I am not sure how
>> safe it is, I feel safer with it, but someone that knows how to do these
>> things right may not.
>>
>> Eric
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Lance Robaldo" <(email redacted)>
>> To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
>> <(email redacted)>
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2003 5:55 PM
>> Subject: [CM] Seat belts...
>>
>>
>> I'm about to replace the seat belts on my 66 Coupe.
>> The old ones don't work right and I'd feel much better about letting my
>> children ride if the seat belts were new.
>>
>> I'm trying to decide if I should go with lap belts like it came with, or
>> should I opt for safety and go with the three way shoulder belt setup.
>>
>> I'd appreciate hearing any pro's and con's for each.
>> I'd also like to hear from any of you who've done the three point.
>>
>> Does it look good?
>> (I know, looks may not matter where safety is involved, but I don't want
> it
>> to look like some kind of hack job)
>>
>> Do you think it adds or takes away from the value of the car?
>>
>> Thanks for your input.
>>
>> Lance Robaldo
>> (email redacted)
>>
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
>> ----
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classic-mustangs mailing list
>> (email redacted)
>> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classic-mustangs mailing list
>> (email redacted)
>> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

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Mail From: wal (Wal Marshall)

> and coffee cans, margarine tubs, jelly jars......

and the deep dish aluminium lid of an old electric fry pan......big enough
to rummage around in and it holds heaps of bolts!

(my entry in the strange storage devices competition)...

Wal Marshall

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Mail From: cobra0375 (Gary Dempsey)

Pertex also has some pipe dope for high pressure hoses and won't break down
when in contact with P/S fluid. Used it on my 68 and never had a problem.
When using Loctite becareful when taking them apart might strip the nuts.

On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 21:19:52 -0500, "jk" <(email redacted)> wrote :

> Threadlockers-
> Loctite 222 (purple in color) is low strength
> Loctite 242 (blue in color) is medium strength
> Loctite 271 (red in color) is high strength
>
> I would use the 242 as it does not require heat to disassemble - but
if
> you're putting it together so as to never come apart - use the 271.
> Jeff Kennard... (email redacted)
> '69 Mach I SCJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dr. Paul R. Sawyer" <(email redacted)>
> To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
> <(email redacted)>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 8:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [CM] P. S. Hoses
>
>
> > R--
> >
> > What "flavor" of loctite? I seem to remember that there are differing
> > strengths of the stuff.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>
>

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Mail From: tjteixeira (Tom Teixeira)

At 9:38 PM -0500 3/24/04, Lance Robaldo wrote:
>I'll check the link out now, but my guess would be Eleanor and Bullitt.
>
>Of course, those are the ONLY two Mustangs I can remember seeing in a
>movie...
>
>Oh yeah, there was a Mustang in a 1964 James Bond movie too...

There were Mustangs in several James Bond movies: "Goldfinger",
"Thunderball", and a Mach 1 in "Diamonds are Forever."
--

'66 convertible (200 auto) mailtoemail redacted)
world.std.com/~tjt

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Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

Correction, that's per pair, but still!



Keven

________________________________

From: Coates, Keven
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 10:19 PM
To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
Subject: RE: [CM] Headlight-was relays....



I can't comment on the tri-bars, but as you probably know, price doesn't
have anything to do with quality unfortunately. I googled the autopal
headlights and some people are selling them for $99 each!



Keven

________________________________

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 4:12 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] Headlight-was relays....



I bought a pair of these 7" round Autopal Headlamps a few months ago for
about $30 to the door with bulbs. They came with an extra "running
light" or "city" light like in this seller's auction
tinyurl.com/2gccmg



Haven't wired them up just yet, but I'm happy to hear the positive
review of your headlamps.



Anyone here have a pair of those Tri-bar headlights that they could
comment on? I've been seeing them more and more in the classic Mustang
publications/catalogs.



I've seen a couple of different prices on these. Anywhere between $50
and $175 for a pair. I'm guessing that there has to be some difference
in quality?



Mike











----- Original Message -----

From: David <mailto:W427 at comcast.net>

To: Mike M. <mailto:mastros at verizon.net>

Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 1:00 PM

Subject: Re: [CM] Headlight-was relays....



My daughter wanted the bling-bling modern look of the second
fluted reflector type. Those have a heavy plastic reflector and throw
an E-code pattern that is a bit more center-weighted than the typical
ones. The chrome reflector coating is not perfect on close inspection,
with slight warbles or waves, and probably causes the less defined
pattern. Although the wide swath and kickup are there, they are not as
full and crisp as a set of Cibies, however they are much better than a
typical DOT beam. There is another forum lister that has used the
Autopal traditional metal reflector/fluted lens type (link 1) that
claims they pattern nearly identically to other typical E lamps and
likely better than the second type. I will order that type next as I
would prefer those in my personal cars - but that's just me.

Although the modern type my daughter has is a 'get what you pay
for' situation, dollar for dollar they are a great value and
improvement. I'm a happy camper in that regard as well as the improved
peace of mind. If someone wants to try the E type out, it's a low cost
way to get most of the benefit, without jumping in feet first for big
bucks.

David

Coates, Keven wrote:

Which one did you buy? Can you comment on the light pattern?
I've heard it was pretty good.



Keven


________________________________


From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
David
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 5:43 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] Headlight-was relays....



I got them from the Autopal Shop on eBay. They carry both
standard fluted lens/metal reflector types (such as
tinyurl.com/2t54nh) as well as the fluted reflector/flat lens
modern styles (tinyurl.com/2wxw2c ) that my daughter liked. The
listings change in price and often have 'Best Offer' available if you
really want to try to squeeze the last penny. Be sure you pay the $2
insurance fee - I had one come damaged but they replaced it immediately
without return of the original. Note that they sell DOT versions of the
same lamps - but I don't have any interest in those as there would be
little point to move 'sideways' into another poor lamp design rather
than upgrade to E-code.

David

Lance Robaldo wrote:

<--snip

$32/pair shipped with bulbs is a great value in a low-budget
upgrade.

-->snip

I'm not opposed to using them, I just wanted to point out that
you "could" get
in trouble.

So where'd you get them for that price?

Lance.


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca

lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
<sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>







________________________________






_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca

lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/


________________________________


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca

lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

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Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

>That would be a great way. As soon as I have a garage I can park in I look forward to this!

Oops, I meant I liked Walt's way. One letter off!

Also, I agree that you can sight camber pretty well, but sometimes the cars lines can throw my eyes off too.

Keven

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Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

John,

Was your floor not heavy enough for the four post lift? How heavy would it have to be? I'm designing a new shop and I have no idea about the floor thickness required, etc.

Keven
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Mail From: wal (wal

While we are on the subject of front end alignments, what others do to
adjust their front wheel bearings?

Ive been in the habit of adjusting the nut till all detectable free play is
eliminated (turning the wheel to make sure the bearing is bedded down, and
rocking the wheel by grasping top and bottom) then locking the nut at this
point. However the car failed a recent safety check on the grounds that the
wheels were "too loose". Humm..

Looking in the shop manual suggests that the bearings should be preloaded
to 25ft lbs, then backed off slightly (to about 15 ft/lbs?) and locked at
that. It seems quite a lot of preload to me, and would likely shorten the
life of the bearings? Looking at other car manuals the procedure seems to
vary a lot from no preload to plenty.. depending on car, model,
manufacturer, brake type etc etc.

What do you guys actually do when adjusting them?

Wal Marshall



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Mail From: fourmilelakers (Ken Summers)


I would tighten them to about the 25 mark. Spin the wheels forward a few times, then back them off slightly. They are not a preload type bearing, so just slightly backed off is fine.



Ken



From: wal at nzmustang.co.nz
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 12:25:19 +1200
Subject: Re: [CM] Front Wheel bearing adjustment
To: fourmilelakers at hotmail.com


While we are on the subject of front end alignments, what others do to adjust their front wheel bearings?

Ive been in the habit of adjusting the nut till all detectable free play is eliminated (turning the wheel to make sure the bearing is bedded down, and rocking the wheel by grasping top and bottom) then locking the nut at this point. However the car failed a recent safety check on the grounds that the wheels were "too loose". Humm..

Looking in the shop manual suggests that the bearings should be preloaded to 25ft lbs, then backed off slightly (to about 15 ft/lbs?) and locked at that. It seems quite a lot of preload to me, and would likely shorten the life of the bearings? Looking at other car manuals the procedure seems to vary a lot from no preload to plenty.. depending on car, model, manufacturer, brake type etc etc.

What do you guys actually do when adjusting them?

Wal Marshall



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