Classic Mustangs List Archive
painting vinyl: some experiences
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Aug 25, 1997 08:27 AM
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Mail From: Michael 'Moose' Dinn (email redacted)
Well, I've almost finished the non-dash part of my '72's interior.
Originally the interior was a deep blue in colour, but that was changed by
the previous owner to black, and I've decided to keep it that way for the
moment.
One of the best ways I found to get paint off parts (well, at least the
"hard" vinyl parts) was to use a hose with a high pressure nozzle. You have
no chance of hurting the vinyl or wearing down the pattern.
For fixing rips in soft parts (door interiors, convertible tops) the best
stuff I've seen is called "VLP" or Vinyl Leather Plastic. It takes a while
to set but it does the job really well. I've had a rip in my top (thanks to
vandals) repaired with it for 4 years now, and it's still watertight and
strong as ever. It doesn't *look* perfect, you can still see where the cut
was and everything, but I suspect that if I sanded it down a little and put
the appropriate pattern into the surface of it (how does one do this
anwyay?) then you'd never tell the difference.
As for paint, for the soft parts of the car (doors) I've been using
Mar-Hyde's "Vinyl Color", and the hard parts are getting Plasti-Kote Vinyl
Paint. Both seem to work well on their respective targets.
--
Michael 'Moose' Dinn | Webworks Worldwide Inc. | (email redacted)
If you have a 1972 Mustang Convertible I want to hear from you!
Mail From: Michael 'Moose' Dinn (email redacted)
Well, I've almost finished the non-dash part of my '72's interior.
Originally the interior was a deep blue in colour, but that was changed by
the previous owner to black, and I've decided to keep it that way for the
moment.
One of the best ways I found to get paint off parts (well, at least the
"hard" vinyl parts) was to use a hose with a high pressure nozzle. You have
no chance of hurting the vinyl or wearing down the pattern.
For fixing rips in soft parts (door interiors, convertible tops) the best
stuff I've seen is called "VLP" or Vinyl Leather Plastic. It takes a while
to set but it does the job really well. I've had a rip in my top (thanks to
vandals) repaired with it for 4 years now, and it's still watertight and
strong as ever. It doesn't *look* perfect, you can still see where the cut
was and everything, but I suspect that if I sanded it down a little and put
the appropriate pattern into the surface of it (how does one do this
anwyay?) then you'd never tell the difference.
As for paint, for the soft parts of the car (doors) I've been using
Mar-Hyde's "Vinyl Color", and the hard parts are getting Plasti-Kote Vinyl
Paint. Both seem to work well on their respective targets.
--
Michael 'Moose' Dinn | Webworks Worldwide Inc. | (email redacted)
If you have a 1972 Mustang Convertible I want to hear from you!
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Aug 25, 1997 01:42 PM
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Mail From: Michael Melson (email redacted)
> It doesn't *look* perfect, you can still see where the cut
> was and everything, but I suspect that if I sanded it down a little
> and put
> the appropriate pattern into the surface of it (how does one do this
> anwyay?) then you'd never tell the difference.
I would guess you would need the pattern on a piece of material that
could be ironed. Any product like the one you described, usually uses
heat to cure the repair material.
I used something similiar on a console pad, after the repair material
was applied a piece of grained material is placed over the repair area
and heated. It reccomended using their heating tool ( basically a small
soldering iron that a quarter sized circle at the end, where the tip
normally goes), but said an iron could also be used. I think the whole
kit was in the $12-15 range.
Mike
Mail From: Michael Melson (email redacted)
> It doesn't *look* perfect, you can still see where the cut
> was and everything, but I suspect that if I sanded it down a little
> and put
> the appropriate pattern into the surface of it (how does one do this
> anwyay?) then you'd never tell the difference.
I would guess you would need the pattern on a piece of material that
could be ironed. Any product like the one you described, usually uses
heat to cure the repair material.
I used something similiar on a console pad, after the repair material
was applied a piece of grained material is placed over the repair area
and heated. It reccomended using their heating tool ( basically a small
soldering iron that a quarter sized circle at the end, where the tip
normally goes), but said an iron could also be used. I think the whole
kit was in the $12-15 range.
Mike
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mailbot
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Topic Creator (OP)
Aug 25, 1997 01:02 PM
Joined 15 years ago
59,279 Posts
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Karl Rotcavich (email redacted)
Michael 'Moose' Dinn wrote:
>
>
> For fixing rips in soft parts (door interiors, convertible tops) the best stuff I've seen is called "VLP" or Vinyl Leather Plastic. It takes a while to set but it does the job really well. I've had a rip in my top (thanks to vandals) repaired with it for 4 years now, and it's still watertight and strong as ever.
Michael,
Where do you get the VLP? I have a pinhole in my convertible top,
almost 5 years, now, but, I would like to seal it, because I do drive
the car in the rain once in a while.
Karl
Mail From: Karl Rotcavich (email redacted)
Michael 'Moose' Dinn wrote:
>
>
> For fixing rips in soft parts (door interiors, convertible tops) the best stuff I've seen is called "VLP" or Vinyl Leather Plastic. It takes a while to set but it does the job really well. I've had a rip in my top (thanks to vandals) repaired with it for 4 years now, and it's still watertight and strong as ever.
Michael,
Where do you get the VLP? I have a pinhole in my convertible top,
almost 5 years, now, but, I would like to seal it, because I do drive
the car in the rain once in a while.
Karl
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mailbot
Mail List Archive Bot
., Online, USA
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Topic Creator (OP)
Aug 25, 1997 01:22 PM
Joined 15 years ago
59,279 Posts
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Michael 'Moose' Dinn (email redacted)
Karl Rotcavich wrote:
> Where do you get the VLP? I have a pinhole in my convertible top,
> almost 5 years, now, but, I would like to seal it, because I do drive
> the car in the rain once in a while.
Being Canadian, I go to Canadian Tire. :-)
Canadian Tire, for those folks south of the border who don't have one
nearby, is kind of the car/home/etc owners gift from above. They're a
combination of UAP/NAPA, Home Hardware, Mr. Lube and a sporting goods store.
Some things you can get there off-the-shelf (at least for a '72 ragtop):
- brake rotors, calipers, shoes, flex hoses
- door striker bolts
- window crank handles
- the little clips that go into the door and hold the inner door skin to the
door and look like dead bugs with their legs up in the air
- all of your standard bulbs, lights, etc, etc, etc.
- most of your electrical parts (including alternators, regulators, etc)
- car stereo gear
- leaf spring stiffeners
- oil, air, gas, etc filters
- radiators
- most of the hoses, or the metallic flex hoses
and so forth. All in all they have probably 90% of everything you'd ever
want for a car, and the dealer has the rest. Man is that last 10% expensive!
--
Michael 'Moose' Dinn | Webworks Worldwide Inc. | (email redacted)
If you have a 1972 Mustang Convertible I want to hear from you!
Mail From: Michael 'Moose' Dinn (email redacted)
Karl Rotcavich wrote:
> Where do you get the VLP? I have a pinhole in my convertible top,
> almost 5 years, now, but, I would like to seal it, because I do drive
> the car in the rain once in a while.
Being Canadian, I go to Canadian Tire. :-)
Canadian Tire, for those folks south of the border who don't have one
nearby, is kind of the car/home/etc owners gift from above. They're a
combination of UAP/NAPA, Home Hardware, Mr. Lube and a sporting goods store.
Some things you can get there off-the-shelf (at least for a '72 ragtop):
- brake rotors, calipers, shoes, flex hoses
- door striker bolts
- window crank handles
- the little clips that go into the door and hold the inner door skin to the
door and look like dead bugs with their legs up in the air
- all of your standard bulbs, lights, etc, etc, etc.
- most of your electrical parts (including alternators, regulators, etc)
- car stereo gear
- leaf spring stiffeners
- oil, air, gas, etc filters
- radiators
- most of the hoses, or the metallic flex hoses
and so forth. All in all they have probably 90% of everything you'd ever
want for a car, and the dealer has the rest. Man is that last 10% expensive!
--
Michael 'Moose' Dinn | Webworks Worldwide Inc. | (email redacted)
If you have a 1972 Mustang Convertible I want to hear from you!
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