Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)

Motorcraft ``AutoLite 2100" circa 1974 (Ford part# DP4E [...]) 1.08 venturis.

Dismantled it, soaked it overnight in the carb cleaner and rebuilt it this afternoon. Per the instructions and everything I've seen my carburetor matches most closely with the exploded view of a 2100D (it's got the vacuum diaphram up top secured by three screws).


A few oddities I'd like to ask you carburetor experts out there:

1. The choke gasket I took off was an O-ring style but the exploded view asserted that it calls for a filled circle gasket with 2 small holes and a slot for the choke fork (the rebuild kit came with the O-ring style model AND this one, so I swapped). Let me know if you need pictures to help you understand. I have the exhaust-heat-and-heater-hoses style choke.

2. The metering jet (the one the float attaches to in the lower left corner of the bowl) that I removed had a little mesh piece on the bottom of it (and filled with crap) -- but the one in the rebuild kit does not. Cause for concern?

3. The jets I appear to have in there are 48Fs though the literature (= Haynes Manual + rebuild guide) doesn't list 48Fs for this carb only 47 and 49s.

4. The accelerator rod was set in the 2nd hole instead of the third (from the bottom). The rebuild guide suggests a 302/289 should be in the third hole from the bottom. What are the disadvantages/advantages of having it in the wrong hole? I moved it to the third hole per spec.

5. Before I dismantled the float I noted its dry measurement around 1/2" (16/32). The literature all call for 7/16th (or 29/64 in the rebuild guide) of an inch so I set it appropriately when I changed the clips and installed the new metering jet. I actually over adjusted it (bringing it around 4/32) accidentally the first time and was rewarded with gas pissing out of the top of the carb when I tried to crank the engine. That was awesome!

6. When I removed the spacer there was a TON of black gooey gunk in the valleys of the intake manifold and the matching channels in the spacer. How did that get in there? Bad gasket? Cause for concern?

Thanks in advance for your input(s)! I only drove about 15 miles but the throttle seems much crisper. I THINK my stutter is gone but I won't know for sure until I do more road testing.


On Mar 28, 2010, at 9:27 PM, Brandon Peskin wrote:

> Took the carb off earlier and have the SOB taken apart on my workbench.
>
> First carb rebuild for me -- how exciting!

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: ckelly (Chris Kelly)



=====================================
Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-
> mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Brandon Peskin
> Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 1:20 AM
> To: Chris Kelly
> Subject: Re: [CM] my first carburetor rebuild (was: 351W with stutter at
> low RPMS)
>
> Motorcraft ``AutoLite 2100" circa 1974 (Ford part# DP4E [...]) 1.08
> venturis.
>
> Dismantled it, soaked it overnight in the carb cleaner and rebuilt it this
> afternoon. Per the instructions and everything I've seen my carburetor
> matches most closely with the exploded view of a 2100D (it's got the
> vacuum diaphram up top secured by three screws).
>
>
> A few oddities I'd like to ask you carburetor experts out there:
>
> 1. The choke gasket I took off was an O-ring style but the exploded view
> asserted that it calls for a filled circle gasket with 2 small holes and a
> slot for the choke fork (the rebuild kit came with the O-ring style model
> AND this one, so I swapped). Let me know if you need pictures to help you
> understand. I have the exhaust-heat-and-heater-hoses style choke.
>
> 2. The metering jet (the one the float attaches to in the lower left
> corner of the bowl) that I removed had a little mesh piece on the bottom
> of it (and filled with crap) -- but the one in the rebuild kit does not.
> Cause for concern?
No - clean and use the screen or discard - a filter in front of the carb
should be picking up all that.
>
> 3. The jets I appear to have in there are 48Fs though the literature (=
> Haynes Manual + rebuild guide) doesn't list 48Fs for this carb only 47
> and 49s.
>
Ford does what it likes - doc don't always reflect reality

> 4. The accelerator rod was set in the 2nd hole instead of the third (from
> the bottom). The rebuild guide suggests a 302/289 should be in the third
> hole from the bottom. What are the disadvantages/advantages of having it
> in the wrong hole? I moved it to the third hole per spec.
>
If the car pulls away clean from a stop, the pump is working as designed.
Us whichever works on the car.

> 5. Before I dismantled the float I noted its dry measurement around 1/2"
> (16/32). The literature all call for 7/16th (or 29/64 in the rebuild
> guide) of an inch so I set it appropriately when I changed the clips and
> installed the new metering jet. I actually over adjusted it (bringing it
> around 4/32) accidentally the first time and was rewarded with gas pissing
> out of the top of the carb when I tried to crank the engine. That was
> awesome!

Yep!
>
> 6. When I removed the spacer there was a TON of black gooey gunk in the
> valleys of the intake manifold and the matching channels in the spacer.
> How did that get in there? Bad gasket? Cause for concern?
>
Exhaust crossover - heats oil and fuel residue and leaves a mess.

> Thanks in advance for your input(s)! I only drove about 15 miles but the
> throttle seems much crisper. I THINK my stutter is gone but I won't know
> for sure until I do more road testing.
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2010, at 9:27 PM, Brandon Peskin wrote:
>
> > Took the carb off earlier and have the SOB taken apart on my workbench.
> >
> > First carb rebuild for me -- how exciting!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mahilly (Mike H)

Your experience was almost identical to my first 2100 rebuild. I can still
see all that black gooey gunk in the manifold and spacer! I came to find
out many years later that my carb was not the original, but a factory
replacement part from '76 IIRC (a la the PO). Anti-stall vacuum diaphragm
on top included! Hope you get better results than I did though - it never
really ran very well, mostly because I rushed the rebuild and didn't pay
attention to details. More recently I replaced it with a new (to me) '68
manifold and 4100, rebuilt with care, and it runs great.

On Tue, Mar 30, 2010 at 11:19 PM, Brandon Peskin <mustang at peskin.org> wrote:

> Motorcraft ``AutoLite 2100" circa 1974 (Ford part# DP4E [...]) 1.08
> venturis.
>
> Dismantled it, soaked it overnight in the carb cleaner and rebuilt it this
> afternoon. Per the instructions and everything I've seen my carburetor
> matches most closely with the exploded view of a 2100D (it's got the vacuum
> diaphram up top secured by three screws).
>
>
> A few oddities I'd like to ask you carburetor experts out there:
>
> 1. The choke gasket I took off was an O-ring style but the exploded view
> asserted that it calls for a filled circle gasket with 2 small holes and a
> slot for the choke fork (the rebuild kit came with the O-ring style model
> AND this one, so I swapped). Let me know if you need pictures to help you
> understand. I have the exhaust-heat-and-heater-hoses style choke.
>
> 2. The metering jet (the one the float attaches to in the lower left corner
> of the bowl) that I removed had a little mesh piece on the bottom of it (and
> filled with crap) -- but the one in the rebuild kit does not. Cause for
> concern?
>
> 3. The jets I appear to have in there are 48Fs though the literature (=
> Haynes Manual + rebuild guide) doesn't list 48Fs for this carb only 47 and
> 49s.
>
> 4. The accelerator rod was set in the 2nd hole instead of the third (from
> the bottom). The rebuild guide suggests a 302/289 should be in the third
> hole from the bottom. What are the disadvantages/advantages of having it in
> the wrong hole? I moved it to the third hole per spec.
>
> 5. Before I dismantled the float I noted its dry measurement around 1/2"
> (16/32). The literature all call for 7/16th (or 29/64 in the rebuild guide)
> of an inch so I set it appropriately when I changed the clips and installed
> the new metering jet. I actually over adjusted it (bringing it around 4/32)
> accidentally the first time and was rewarded with gas pissing out of the top
> of the carb when I tried to crank the engine. That was awesome!
>
> 6. When I removed the spacer there was a TON of black gooey gunk in the
> valleys of the intake manifold and the matching channels in the spacer. How
> did that get in there? Bad gasket? Cause for concern?
>
> Thanks in advance for your input(s)! I only drove about 15 miles but the
> throttle seems much crisper. I THINK my stutter is gone but I won't know for
> sure until I do more road testing.
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2010, at 9:27 PM, Brandon Peskin wrote:
>
> > Took the carb off earlier and have the SOB taken apart on my workbench.
> >
> > First carb rebuild for me -- how exciting!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20100331/5fc48c75/attachment-0001.html

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)

Hi Mike (and list):

I think I just learned something new from you but I need clarification:

That vacuum diaphragm on the top is the anti-stall dashpot? I've also got one screwed in behind the throttle linkage. Does this mean I don't need the one on the side? Can someone confirm this? That'd be sweet because the one on the side is done-for and I've been trying to source a new one with limited success. Sounds like the PO just carried it over from the original carb if thats the case.

tinyurl.com/y8mu7t6

I re-used my existing diaphragm on top as it wasn't torn only slightly wrinkled (and the rebuild kit did NOT include one). The exploded view I used does not reference the round anti-stall dashpot on the side that I have either (tpocr.com/2100-dcarb.html).

I drove the car 100 miles today and I'm rather pleased with the results. The only adjustment I need to make is adjusting the choke/fast idle. When I press the accelerator all the way down when the engine is cold the fast idle isn't engaging. I can rotate it manually by hand, so I probably just need to figure out how to adjust it and do so.


I do NOT have screw caps for the idle mixture screws to hold them in place. Are these absolutely necessary? Anyone know where I can get my hands on a pair?

On Mar 31, 2010, at 10:28 PM, Mike H wrote:

> Your experience was almost identical to my first 2100 rebuild. I can still see all that black gooey gunk in the manifold and spacer! I came to find out many years later that my carb was not the original, but a factory replacement part from '76 IIRC (a la the PO). Anti-stall vacuum diaphragm on top included! Hope you get better results than I did though - it never really ran very well, mostly because I rushed the rebuild and didn't pay attention to details. More recently I replaced it with a new (to me) '68 manifold and 4100, rebuilt with care, and it runs great.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mahilly (Mike H)

It's been a few years, but I am pretty sure that diaphragm on top was an
anti-stall...in which case you could do away with the side mounted one. My
car has never had the side mounted one since I have owned it (1989). I
assume they tossed it when the carb was replaced in the mid 70's??? It's
funny cause I always wondered why my car didn't have one, until I finally
figured out that the carb wasn't the original. Makes sense now.

I don't understand your questions regarding screw caps for idle mix screws.
Got a pic?

On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 11:13 PM, Brandon Peskin <mustang at peskin.org> wrote:

> Hi Mike (and list):
>
> I think I just learned something new from you but I need clarification:
>
> That vacuum diaphragm on the top is the anti-stall dashpot? I've also got
> one screwed in behind the throttle linkage. Does this mean I don't need the
> one on the side? Can someone confirm this? That'd be sweet because the one
> on the side is done-for and I've been trying to source a new one with
> limited success. Sounds like the PO just carried it over from the original
> carb if thats the case.
>
> tinyurl.com/y8mu7t6
>
> I re-used my existing diaphragm on top as it wasn't torn only slightly
> wrinkled (and the rebuild kit did NOT include one). The exploded view I used
> does not reference the round anti-stall dashpot on the side that I have
> either (tpocr.com/2100-dcarb.html).
>
> I drove the car 100 miles today and I'm rather pleased with the results.
> The only adjustment I need to make is adjusting the choke/fast idle. When I
> press the accelerator all the way down when the engine is cold the fast idle
> isn't engaging. I can rotate it manually by hand, so I probably just need to
> figure out how to adjust it and do so.
>
>
> I do NOT have screw caps for the idle mixture screws to hold them in place.
> Are these absolutely necessary? Anyone know where I can get my hands on a
> pair?
>
> On Mar 31, 2010, at 10:28 PM, Mike H wrote:
>
> > Your experience was almost identical to my first 2100 rebuild. I can
> still see all that black gooey gunk in the manifold and spacer! I came to
> find out many years later that my carb was not the original, but a factory
> replacement part from '76 IIRC (a la the PO). Anti-stall vacuum diaphragm
> on top included! Hope you get better results than I did though - it never
> really ran very well, mostly because I rushed the rebuild and didn't pay
> attention to details. More recently I replaced it with a new (to me) '68
> manifold and 4100, rebuilt with care, and it runs great.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20100401/d6b37c0b/attachment.html