Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: kevin (Kevin Dudak)

I have another question for you all.



I have the interior out to lower the seat trays and swap transmissions.
While our, I am cleaning out the surface rust and gunk, and plan to put on
Por-15. I blasted the rust in the Pax foot well, and can now see day light
through a few small pin holes. There is a section that feels week, but you
can't punch through. So, Now I figure I need to replace that section. It
is on the part that angles up toward the fire wall.



So, the questions start. I know I should replace the section, how far out
from the nastiness should I remove?

I understand it can be interesting looking for good replacement panels. Any
recommendations on where to get it from?

Any suggestions? Having never done something like this, I imagine I am
focusing on the unimportant, and missing the real potential problems.

Lastly, would you remove the dash before doing this?



Thanks



Kevin



'67 Coupe, 289, 5spd on order.

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Mail From: Lance (Lance Robaldo)

No, unless your firewall is rusted out (which I've never seen before),
you don't have to remove the dash. You only have to replace back to
solid metal, but usually those parts come in ready-to install sections.




You'll have to decide for yourself if you want to stop at solid metal,
or replace the entire section. I replaced "most" of a section on mine,
I stopped at the seat risers since they were rock solid. (hey, if it
ain't broke, don't fix it.)



I purchased my front floor pans at Mustangs Unlimited. They were a
"perfect" fit. By "perfect", I mean that they had all the appropriate
ridges and holes. I still did some minor cutting on them to fit them in
they went slightly under the seat risers, and my floor was quite solid
there, so I trimmed several inches off in that area. I re-used the
trimmed metal to reinforce another area.



It's was pretty easy to trim them. I just zipped through them with a
saber saw. My risers were solid, so I just overlapped the new floor and
welded it in. (actually, I had a body shop do the welding.I don't have
a welder yet.)



You say your problem is the angled riser? I've never seen just that
area go bad, usually it's the front floor pan in front of the seat.
(caused more often than not by a leaky cowl vent)



In any case, you can purchase just the front angled piece, but I would
go the route of purchasing the angled piece AND the front floor pan back
to the seat tray. The front floor pan includes about 3" of the riser,
so if your rust-out is right at the floor where it starts to angle up,
you might not need to purchase the angled part at all.



Make sure your cowl isn't leaking! You wouldn't want to do all that
work and only have it rust out again.

Also, be sure to undercoat it.



While your at it, purchase new rubber plugs for the holes, your old
ones, if they're still there, are surely dried out and in need of
replacing by now.



Good luck. It's not a hard job and CAN be done by someone with little
experience if you take your time. (and having a welder handy would help
too.grin)



Lance





-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of
Kevin Dudak
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 11:09 AM
To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
Subject: [CM] Floor panel replacement - oh boy



I have another question for you all.



I have the interior out to lower the seat trays and swap transmissions.
While our, I am cleaning out the surface rust and gunk, and plan to put
on Por-15. I blasted the rust in the Pax foot well, and can now see day
light through a few small pin holes. There is a section that feels
week, but you can't punch through. So, Now I figure I need to replace
that section. It is on the part that angles up toward the fire wall.



So, the questions start. I know I should replace the section, how far
out from the nastiness should I remove?

I understand it can be interesting looking for good replacement panels.
Any recommendations on where to get it from?

Any suggestions? Having never done something like this, I imagine I am
focusing on the unimportant, and missing the real potential problems.

Lastly, would you remove the dash before doing this?



Thanks



Kevin



'67 Coupe, 289, 5spd on order.

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Mail From: sfm (Shawn F. Markham)

I have pictures of what I did to my 65 on my web site



blt4spd.com <blt4spd.com/>



Shawn



________________________________

From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of
Lance Robaldo
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 1:45 PM
To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
Subject: RE: [CM] Floor panel replacement - oh boy



No, unless your firewall is rusted out (which I've never seen before),
you don't have to remove the dash. You only have to replace back to
solid metal, but usually those parts come in ready-to install sections.




You'll have to decide for yourself if you want to stop at solid metal,
or replace the entire section. I replaced "most" of a section on mine,
I stopped at the seat risers since they were rock solid. (hey, if it
ain't broke, don't fix it...)



I purchased my front floor pans at Mustangs Unlimited. They were a
"perfect" fit. By "perfect", I mean that they had all the appropriate
ridges and holes. I still did some minor cutting on them to fit them in
they went slightly under the seat risers, and my floor was quite solid
there, so I trimmed several inches off in that area. I re-used the
trimmed metal to reinforce another area.



It's was pretty easy to trim them. I just zipped through them with a
saber saw. My risers were solid, so I just overlapped the new floor and
welded it in. (actually, I had a body shop do the welding...I don't
have a welder yet...)



You say your problem is the angled riser? I've never seen just that
area go bad, usually it's the front floor pan in front of the seat.
(caused more often than not by a leaky cowl vent)



In any case, you can purchase just the front angled piece, but I would
go the route of purchasing the angled piece AND the front floor pan back
to the seat tray. The front floor pan includes about 3" of the riser,
so if your rust-out is right at the floor where it starts to angle up,
you might not need to purchase the angled part at all.



Make sure your cowl isn't leaking! You wouldn't want to do all that
work and only have it rust out again.

Also, be sure to undercoat it.



While your at it, purchase new rubber plugs for the holes, your old
ones, if they're still there, are surely dried out and in need of
replacing by now...



Good luck. It's not a hard job and CAN be done by someone with little
experience if you take your time. (and having a welder handy would help
too...grin)



Lance





-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of
Kevin Dudak
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 11:09 AM
To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
Subject: [CM] Floor panel replacement - oh boy



I have another question for you all.



I have the interior out to lower the seat trays and swap transmissions.
While our, I am cleaning out the surface rust and gunk, and plan to put
on Por-15. I blasted the rust in the Pax foot well, and can now see day
light through a few small pin holes. There is a section that feels
week, but you can't punch through. So, Now I figure I need to replace
that section. It is on the part that angles up toward the fire wall.



So, the questions start. I know I should replace the section, how far
out from the nastiness should I remove?

I understand it can be interesting looking for good replacement panels.
Any recommendations on where to get it from?

Any suggestions? Having never done something like this, I imagine I am
focusing on the unimportant, and missing the real potential problems.

Lastly, would you remove the dash before doing this?



Thanks



Kevin



'67 Coupe, 289, 5spd on order...

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Mail From: kevin (Kevin Dudak)

Nice pics, and shop. Wish I had that much room to work.



I bought a Mig yesterday, and am ordering the panels today I think. (If I
get the time during work.) I am going to order both the short front floor
and the angled piece. While only my angled piece seems bad, I don't want to
rip into it, and find I need both. Rather spend the extra $30 and have
surplus.



This is defiantly putting be me behind my plans for the car this summer.



_____

From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of Shawn F.
Markham
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 5:23 AM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: RE: [CM] Floor panel replacement - oh boy



I have pictures of what I did to my 65 on my web site



blt4spd.com <blt4spd.com/>



Shawn



_____

From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of Lance
Robaldo
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 1:45 PM
To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
Subject: RE: [CM] Floor panel replacement - oh boy



No, unless your firewall is rusted out (which I've never seen before), you
don't have to remove the dash. You only have to replace back to solid
metal, but usually those parts come in ready-to install sections.



You'll have to decide for yourself if you want to stop at solid metal, or
replace the entire section. I replaced "most" of a section on mine, I
stopped at the seat risers since they were rock solid. (hey, if it ain't
broke, don't fix it.)



I purchased my front floor pans at Mustangs Unlimited. They were a
"perfect" fit. By "perfect", I mean that they had all the appropriate
ridges and holes. I still did some minor cutting on them to fit them in
they went slightly under the seat risers, and my floor was quite solid
there, so I trimmed several inches off in that area. I re-used the trimmed
metal to reinforce another area.



It's was pretty easy to trim them. I just zipped through them with a saber
saw. My risers were solid, so I just overlapped the new floor and welded it
in. (actually, I had a body shop do the welding.I don't have a welder yet.)



You say your problem is the angled riser? I've never seen just that area go
bad, usually it's the front floor pan in front of the seat. (caused more
often than not by a leaky cowl vent)



In any case, you can purchase just the front angled piece, but I would go
the route of purchasing the angled piece AND the front floor pan back to the
seat tray. The front floor pan includes about 3" of the riser, so if your
rust-out is right at the floor where it starts to angle up, you might not
need to purchase the angled part at all.



Make sure your cowl isn't leaking! You wouldn't want to do all that work
and only have it rust out again.

Also, be sure to undercoat it.



While your at it, purchase new rubber plugs for the holes, your old ones,
if they're still there, are surely dried out and in need of replacing by
now.



Good luck. It's not a hard job and CAN be done by someone with little
experience if you take your time. (and having a welder handy would help
too.grin)



Lance





-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of Kevin
Dudak
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 11:09 AM
To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
Subject: [CM] Floor panel replacement - oh boy



I have another question for you all.



I have the interior out to lower the seat trays and swap transmissions.
While our, I am cleaning out the surface rust and gunk, and plan to put on
Por-15. I blasted the rust in the Pax foot well, and can now see day light
through a few small pin holes. There is a section that feels week, but you
can't punch through. So, Now I figure I need to replace that section. It
is on the part that angles up toward the fire wall.



So, the questions start. I know I should replace the section, how far out
from the nastiness should I remove?

I understand it can be interesting looking for good replacement panels. Any
recommendations on where to get it from?

Any suggestions? Having never done something like this, I imagine I am
focusing on the unimportant, and missing the real potential problems.

Lastly, would you remove the dash before doing this?



Thanks



Kevin



'67 Coupe, 289, 5spd on order.

-------------- next part --------------
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Mail From: W427 (David)

Very cool to see your progress. I haven't looked deeply into adapting
the EDIS ignition, but how are you going to set it up?

David

Shawn F. Markham wrote:
> I have pictures of what I did to my 65 on my web site
>
>
>
> blt4spd.com <blt4spd.com/>
>
>
>
> Shawn
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* (email redacted)
> [mailtoemail redacted)] *On Behalf Of
> *Lance Robaldo
> *Sent:* Monday, April 19, 2004 1:45 PM
> *To:* 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
> *Subject:* RE: [CM] Floor panel replacement - oh boy
>
>
>
> No, unless your firewall is rusted out (which I?ve never seen before),
> you don?t have to remove the dash. You only have to replace back to
> solid metal, but usually those parts come in ready-to install sections.
>
>
>
> You?ll have to decide for yourself if you want to stop at solid metal,
> or replace the entire section. I replaced ?most? of a section on mine,
> I stopped at the seat risers since they were rock solid. (hey, if it
> ain?t broke, don?t fix it?)
>
>
>
> I purchased my front floor pans at Mustangs Unlimited. They were a
> ?perfect? fit. By ?perfect?, I mean that they had all the appropriate
> ridges and holes. I still did some minor cutting on them to fit them
> in they went slightly under the seat risers, and my floor was quite
> solid there, so I trimmed several inches off in that area. I re-used
> the trimmed metal to reinforce another area.
>
>
>
> It?s was pretty easy to trim them. I just zipped through them with a
> saber saw. My risers were solid, so I just overlapped the new floor and
> welded it in. (actually, I had a body shop do the welding?I don?t have
> a welder yet?)
>
>
>
> You say your problem is the angled riser? I?ve never seen just that
> area go bad, usually it?s the front floor pan in front of the seat.
> (caused more often than not by a leaky cowl vent)
>
>
>
> In any case, you can purchase just the front angled piece, but I would
> go the route of purchasing the angled piece AND the front floor pan back
> to the seat tray. The front floor pan includes about 3? of the riser,
> so if your rust-out is right at the floor where it starts to angle up,
> you might not need to purchase the angled part at all.
>
>
>
> Make sure your cowl isn?t leaking! You wouldn?t want to do all that
> work and only have it rust out again.
>
> Also, be sure to undercoat it.
>
>
>
> While your at it, purchase new rubber plugs for the holes, your old
> ones, if they?re still there, are surely dried out and in need of
> replacing by now?
>
>
>
> Good luck. It?s not a hard job and CAN be done by someone with little
> experience if you take your time. (and having a welder handy would help
> too?grin)
>
>
>
> Lance
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* (email redacted)
> [mailtoemail redacted)] *On Behalf Of
> *Kevin Dudak
> *Sent:* Monday, April 19, 2004 11:09 AM
> *To:* 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
> *Subject:* [CM] Floor panel replacement - oh boy
>
>
>
> I have another question for you all.
>
>
>
> I have the interior out to lower the seat trays and swap transmissions.
> While our, I am cleaning out the surface rust and gunk, and plan to put
> on Por-15. I blasted the rust in the Pax foot well, and can now see day
> light through a few small pin holes. There is a section that feels
> week, but you can?t punch through. So, Now I figure I need to replace
> that section. It is on the part that angles up toward the fire wall.
>
>
>
> So, the questions start. I know I should replace the section, how far
> out from the nastiness should I remove?
>
> I understand it can be interesting looking for good replacement panels.
> Any recommendations on where to get it from?
>
> Any suggestions? Having never done something like this, I imagine I am
> focusing on the unimportant, and missing the real potential problems.
>
> Lastly, would you remove the dash before doing this?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
> ?67 Coupe, 289, 5spd on order?
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs