Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mahilly (Mike H)

Has anyone used a magnetic alignment gauge (like the link below) to set your
front end alignment? Curious to know how well (or poorly) it actually
works.

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wheel-Alignment-Caster-Camber-Gauge-New-NO-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ013QQitemZ230047504368QQrdZ1

After I replace my suspension I'd like to be able to do my own alignment
without having to buy expensive tools. Any suggestions or
tricks-of-the-trade?

Thanks.
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Mail From: walt (Walt Boeninger)

I don't like those, they will not be as accurate as this:

racerpartswholesale.com/art1.htm

I trust the wheel rim much more than the center of the wheel.
Any imperfection in the wheel center wil be magnified ....
Now I have never used them, and I know shops do....
But then shops also used to use those funky drive over
toe gauges ....


Mike H wrote:
> Has anyone used a magnetic alignment gauge (like the link below) to set
> your front end alignment? Curious to know how well (or poorly) it
> actually works.
>
> cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wheel-Alignment-Caster-Camber-Gauge-New-NO-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ013QQitemZ230047504368QQrdZ1
> <cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wheel-Alignment-Caster-Camber-Gauge-New-NO-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ013QQitemZ230047504368QQrdZ1>
>
> After I replace my suspension I'd like to be able to do my own alignment
> without having to buy expensive tools. Any suggestions or
> tricks-of-the-trade?
>
> Thanks.
>


--

Regards
--------------
Walt Boeninger
mailto:webmaster at norcal-saac.org
norcal-saac.org

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: ckelly (Chris Kelly)

And I don't think the camber gauges work well without turn plates. You
really need a way to take any preload out of the suspension. With disk
brakes you can set the camber with a magnetic protractor on the rotor IF you
can get the front to settle down to ride height.

Here's my take on DIY alignment: You have to do a LOT of home alignments to
pay for the tools. I take mine to a local guy - haven't had the Falcon
aligned in 12 years. Use good parts and the eccentric eliminator kit from
Mustang's Plus and you'll not have to mess with it very often. If you have
ot have the car aligned very often, you need to quit driver over curbs LOL
or there is a serious problem.

=====================================
Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================


> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On
> Behalf Of Walt Boeninger
> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 12:43 PM
> To: Chris Kelly
> Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment
>
> I don't like those, they will not be as accurate as this:
>
> racerpartswholesale.com/art1.htm
>
> I trust the wheel rim much more than the center of the wheel.
> Any imperfection in the wheel center wil be magnified ....
> Now I have never used them, and I know shops do....
> But then shops also used to use those funky drive over toe gauges ....
>
>
> Mike H wrote:
> > Has anyone used a magnetic alignment gauge (like the link below) to
> > set your front end alignment? Curious to know how well (or
> poorly) it
> > actually works.
> >
> >
> cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wheel-Alignment-Caster-Camber-Gauge-New
> >
> -NO-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ013QQitemZ23004750436
> > 8QQrdZ1
> >
> <cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wheel-Alignment-Caster-Camber-Gauge-Ne
> >
> w-NO-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ013QQitemZ2300475043
> > 68QQrdZ1>
> >
> > After I replace my suspension I'd like to be able to do my own
> > alignment without having to buy expensive tools. Any
> suggestions or
> > tricks-of-the-trade?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
>
>
> --
>
> Regards
> --------------
> Walt Boeninger
> mailto:webmaster at norcal-saac.org
> norcal-saac.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

I have the professional version of the ebay kind and I love it. It does
require pulling off the wheel bearing cap before use, but it works
great. I'm not sure about the ebay one. The bubble gauge must be very
accurate and I'm concerned about the hinging part too.

The center of the wheel is machined with pretty tight tolerances and
I've never had a problem with repeatability (I always check my
measurements after driving) or accuracy. It's certainly a lot more
accurate than having any shop I've ever used do the alignment (another
story)!

I personally don't trust rims unless I've measured the runout. I've
measured way too many rims that have much more than 1/16" runout side to
side, so this makes rim measurement a total waste of time on these
wheels. If you know your rims are straight, Walt's suggestion makes
sense, although the price they show is pretty high.

Digital angle gauge prices have recently taken a nose dive. Sears had
one only a few weeks ago on sale for $35. It may be at the full price
of $50 now, but previously you could never find them for under $100.

Keven

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Walt
Boeninger
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 12:43 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment

I don't like those, they will not be as accurate as this:

racerpartswholesale.com/art1.htm

I trust the wheel rim much more than the center of the wheel.
Any imperfection in the wheel center wil be magnified ....
Now I have never used them, and I know shops do....
But then shops also used to use those funky drive over
toe gauges ....


Mike H wrote:
> Has anyone used a magnetic alignment gauge (like the link below) to
set
> your front end alignment? Curious to know how well (or poorly) it
> actually works.
>
>
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wheel-Alignment-Caster-Camber-Gauge-New-N
O-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ013QQitemZ230047504368QQr
dZ1
>
<cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wheel-Alignment-Caster-Camber-Gauge-New-
NO-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ013QQitemZ230047504368QQ
rdZ1>
>
> After I replace my suspension I'd like to be able to do my own
alignment
> without having to buy expensive tools. Any suggestions or
> tricks-of-the-trade?
>
> Thanks.
>


--

Regards
--------------
Walt Boeninger
mailto:webmaster at norcal-saac.org
norcal-saac.org

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

>And I don't think the camber gauges work well without turn plates. You
really need a way to take any preload out of the suspension.

I can tell you from experience this is absolutely true. It's a waste of
time. Here's what I've done.

First method is to get four 12 gauge or heavier squares of metal about
12"x12". Put two down on the driveway in a level spot under where both
front wheels would go. Then put two 5/8" steel rods on top of that,
parallel to the car, then put the other two on top of that. Drive over
them.

Then you've got a "turntable" that will swivel well enough to castor
measurements, but more importantly will slide side to side really well
(don't lean on the front of the car!).

Second method:
Get four 12" x 12" linoleum tiles from home depot, etc. Put down two
tiles
where the front wheels will go on a level surface. Grease the top of
these tiles and put the second tiles on top. Then roll the car onto
them using the rear parking brakes if you have to. Don't use the
regular brakes and don't try driving the car onto them. They will slide
forward no matter how lightly you step on the brakes!

Now you've got two turntables that work great, but they may break after
this use and/or in storage. They're pretty cheap though. Again, don't
lean on the front of the car with these under them! It'll slide right
off!

I've done both of these methods and prefer the first, but YMMV.

I've always thought of making a version of #1 with an intermediate steel
plate drilled with holes for ball bearings and a travel limiter, but
haven't gotten around to it.

>With disk brakes you can set the camber with a magnetic protractor on
the rotor IF you can get the front to settle down to ride height.

I don't think magnetic protractors have enough accuracy for people with
wide tires where you really want to set it right. You're trying to get
it to +/- 1/2 degree accuracy. It's hard to see this little amount of
movement on those gauges, and some of them have too much friction.

I have one like this, but older and a different brand:
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LongAcre-Magnetic-caster-camber-alignment
-gauge-Import_W0QQitemZ180046020846QQihZ008QQcategoryZ33581QQssPageNameZ
WDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I bought it at a pawn shop for $30!

One note: Always set camber first! Toe depends on camber, so camber
must be set first. Castor also affects toe a bit, so set toe last
always. I usually don't bother to set castor. 90% of the shops out
there don't either. Some of them don't even bother checking camber,
they just set toe!

> Here's my take on DIY alignment: You have to do a LOT of home
alignments to pay for the tools.

Not if you know some tricks. I use two 10' pvc pipes with fishing line
strung between them. One in the front of the car, one in the back, on
jack stands. This makes setting up the parallel lines to measure
against for toe almost instant. Then I use a ruler to the rim for toe,
and a magnetic wheel center gauge for castor/camber, plus the above
mentioned steel plates for turntables. I got the magnetic gauge from a
pawn shop for $30. Total cost, probably $50.

>Use good parts and the eccentric eliminator kit from
Mustang's Plus

I've never had a problem with my stock system slipping, but I seem to be
a unique case. I run sticky wide tires and corner fast, but still no
slipping. My suspension takes a pounding over sink holes too.

>and you'll not have to mess with it very often.

That's true, but if the alignment shop messes up (as they have 80% of
the time I've gone to one), you may not know until your tires are toast
5000 miles later!

Keven

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mahilly (Mike H)

Thanks for the feedback. You say you usually never set caster? But doesn't
the difference in caster angle between the two front wheels determine
whether the car goes straight or veers to one side or the other?

On 11/6/06, Coates, Keven <keven at ti.com> wrote:
>
> >And I don't think the camber gauges work well without turn plates. You
> really need a way to take any preload out of the suspension.
>
> I can tell you from experience this is absolutely true. It's a waste of
> time. Here's what I've done.
>
> First method is to get four 12 gauge or heavier squares of metal about
> 12"x12". Put two down on the driveway in a level spot under where both
> front wheels would go. Then put two 5/8" steel rods on top of that,
> parallel to the car, then put the other two on top of that. Drive over
> them.
>
> Then you've got a "turntable" that will swivel well enough to castor
> measurements, but more importantly will slide side to side really well
> (don't lean on the front of the car!).
>
> Second method:
> Get four 12" x 12" linoleum tiles from home depot, etc. Put down two
> tiles
> where the front wheels will go on a level surface. Grease the top of
> these tiles and put the second tiles on top. Then roll the car onto
> them using the rear parking brakes if you have to. Don't use the
> regular brakes and don't try driving the car onto them. They will slide
> forward no matter how lightly you step on the brakes!
>
> Now you've got two turntables that work great, but they may break after
> this use and/or in storage. They're pretty cheap though. Again, don't
> lean on the front of the car with these under them! It'll slide right
> off!
>
> I've done both of these methods and prefer the first, but YMMV.
>
> I've always thought of making a version of #1 with an intermediate steel
> plate drilled with holes for ball bearings and a travel limiter, but
> haven't gotten around to it.
>
> >With disk brakes you can set the camber with a magnetic protractor on
> the rotor IF you can get the front to settle down to ride height.
>
> I don't think magnetic protractors have enough accuracy for people with
> wide tires where you really want to set it right. You're trying to get
> it to +/- 1/2 degree accuracy. It's hard to see this little amount of
> movement on those gauges, and some of them have too much friction.
>
> I have one like this, but older and a different brand:
> cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LongAcre-Magnetic-caster-camber-alignment
> -gauge-Import_W0QQitemZ180046020846QQihZ008QQcategoryZ33581QQssPageNameZ
> WDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> I bought it at a pawn shop for $30!
>
> One note: Always set camber first! Toe depends on camber, so camber
> must be set first. Castor also affects toe a bit, so set toe last
> always. I usually don't bother to set castor. 90% of the shops out
> there don't either. Some of them don't even bother checking camber,
> they just set toe!
>
> > Here's my take on DIY alignment: You have to do a LOT of home
> alignments to pay for the tools.
>
> Not if you know some tricks. I use two 10' pvc pipes with fishing line
> strung between them. One in the front of the car, one in the back, on
> jack stands. This makes setting up the parallel lines to measure
> against for toe almost instant. Then I use a ruler to the rim for toe,
> and a magnetic wheel center gauge for castor/camber, plus the above
> mentioned steel plates for turntables. I got the magnetic gauge from a
> pawn shop for $30. Total cost, probably $50.
>
> >Use good parts and the eccentric eliminator kit from
> Mustang's Plus
>
> I've never had a problem with my stock system slipping, but I seem to be
> a unique case. I run sticky wide tires and corner fast, but still no
> slipping. My suspension takes a pounding over sink holes too.
>
> >and you'll not have to mess with it very often.
>
> That's true, but if the alignment shop messes up (as they have 80% of
> the time I've gone to one), you may not know until your tires are toast
> 5000 miles later!
>
> Keven
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
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Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

Castor isn't nearly as crucial as the other alignments. It doesn't
affect whether the car goes straight except during braking. Castor
mainly determines the resistance to turning of the wheels, or the self
centering effect.



It is an important alignment, but being within a few degrees is
sufficient. The main reason I (and most commercial shops) don't bother
to set it is that once it's set, it remains and isn't affected by toe or
camber adjustments.



Keven

________________________________

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Mike
H
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 12:44 AM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment



Thanks for the feedback. You say you usually never set caster? But
doesn't the difference in caster angle between the two front wheels
determine whether the car goes straight or veers to one side or the
other?

On 11/6/06, Coates, Keven <keven at ti.com> wrote:

>And I don't think the camber gauges work well without turn plates. You
really need a way to take any preload out of the suspension.

I can tell you from experience this is absolutely true. It's a waste of
time. Here's what I've done.

First method is to get four 12 gauge or heavier squares of metal about
12"x12". Put two down on the driveway in a level spot under where both
front wheels would go. Then put two 5/8" steel rods on top of that,
parallel to the car, then put the other two on top of that. Drive over
them.

Then you've got a "turntable" that will swivel well enough to castor
measurements, but more importantly will slide side to side really well
(don't lean on the front of the car!).

Second method:
Get four 12" x 12" linoleum tiles from home depot, etc. Put down two
tiles
where the front wheels will go on a level surface. Grease the top of
these tiles and put the second tiles on top. Then roll the car onto
them using the rear parking brakes if you have to. Don't use the
regular brakes and don't try driving the car onto them. They will slide
forward no matter how lightly you step on the brakes!

Now you've got two turntables that work great, but they may break after
this use and/or in storage. They're pretty cheap though. Again, don't
lean on the front of the car with these under them! It'll slide right
off!

I've done both of these methods and prefer the first, but YMMV.

I've always thought of making a version of #1 with an intermediate steel

plate drilled with holes for ball bearings and a travel limiter, but
haven't gotten around to it.

>With disk brakes you can set the camber with a magnetic protractor on
the rotor IF you can get the front to settle down to ride height.

I don't think magnetic protractors have enough accuracy for people with
wide tires where you really want to set it right. You're trying to get
it to +/- 1/2 degree accuracy. It's hard to see this little amount of
movement on those gauges, and some of them have too much friction.

I have one like this, but older and a different brand:
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LongAcre-Magnetic-caster-camber-alignment

-gauge-Import_W0QQitemZ180046020846QQihZ008QQcategoryZ33581QQssPageNameZ
WDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I bought it at a pawn shop for $30!

One note: Always set camber first! Toe depends on camber, so camber
must be set first. Castor also affects toe a bit, so set toe last
always. I usually don't bother to set castor. 90% of the shops out
there don't either. Some of them don't even bother checking camber,
they just set toe!

> Here's my take on DIY alignment: You have to do a LOT of home
alignments to pay for the tools.

Not if you know some tricks. I use two 10' pvc pipes with fishing line
strung between them. One in the front of the car, one in the back, on
jack stands. This makes setting up the parallel lines to measure
against for toe almost instant. Then I use a ruler to the rim for toe,
and a magnetic wheel center gauge for castor/camber, plus the above
mentioned steel plates for turntables. I got the magnetic gauge from a
pawn shop for $30. Total cost, probably $50.

>Use good parts and the eccentric eliminator kit from
Mustang's Plus

I've never had a problem with my stock system slipping, but I seem to be
a unique case. I run sticky wide tires and corner fast, but still no
slipping. My suspension takes a pounding over sink holes too.

>and you'll not have to mess with it very often.

That's true, but if the alignment shop messes up (as they have 80% of
the time I've gone to one), you may not know until your tires are toast
5000 miles later!

Keven

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/



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Mail From: ckelly (Chris Kelly)

I'll respectfully disagree with that. Setting our rear steer cars with the
stock caster setting is asking for wander. I dial all our cars in to 3
degrees +/- 1/2 degree. It makes a HUGE difference in the handling of the
cars. For cars that do drag racing, error on the plus side for better top
end control. A zero or negative setting will make the car very easy to
steer - and make it want to wander all over the place. Good for grandma
with a manual wheel - not good for anything else.


=====================================
Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================





_____

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Coates,
Keven
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 8:03 AM
To: Chris Kelly
Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment



Castor isn't nearly as crucial as the other alignments. It doesn't affect
whether the car goes straight except during braking. Castor mainly
determines the resistance to turning of the wheels, or the self centering
effect.



It is an important alignment, but being within a few degrees is sufficient.
The main reason I (and most commercial shops) don't bother to set it is that
once it's set, it remains and isn't affected by toe or camber adjustments.



Keven


_____




-------------- next part --------------
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Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

I respectfully agree with your disagreement ;-). Obviously in racing a
lot more detail is important. I've never raced my Mustang on the track
(except the occasional casual autocross experience), so I speak from
street experience mostly.



I agree that more castor is better. I have a hard time getting the kind
of castor I'd like because the upper a-arm bolts aren't long enough to
angle them back enough (for the rough setting). My car has been in an
accident (before I got it) and so has more of a problem on one side than
the other. Someday I'd like to mess with this more and set it up with
more castor. It increases feedback and dynamic negative camber gain
(negative camber gain during cornering), which are very good things.



Keven

________________________________

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Chris Kelly
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 10:36 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment



I'll respectfully disagree with that. Setting our rear steer cars with
the stock caster setting is asking for wander. I dial all our cars in
to 3 degrees +/- 1/2 degree. It makes a HUGE difference in the handling
of the cars. For cars that do drag racing, error on the plus side for
better top end control. A zero or negative setting will make the car
very easy to steer - and make it want to wander all over the place.
Good for grandma with a manual wheel - not good for anything else.



=====================================
Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================






________________________________


From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Coates, Keven
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 8:03 AM
To: Chris Kelly
Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment

Castor isn't nearly as crucial as the other alignments. It
doesn't affect whether the car goes straight except during braking.
Castor mainly determines the resistance to turning of the wheels, or the
self centering effect.



It is an important alignment, but being within a few degrees is
sufficient. The main reason I (and most commercial shops) don't bother
to set it is that once it's set, it remains and isn't affected by toe or
camber adjustments.



Keven


________________________________




-------------- next part --------------
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Mail From: walt (Walt Boeninger)


>
> I agree that more castor is better.

Castor? Pollux? ....I guess that goes along with our "oil" discussion....
....it's all "Greek" to me......

Sorry. Couldn't resist..... slow morning....

Walt

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

On a related note I once had an alignment shop tell me that they set
camber to within 5 degrees of the factory specs. I just stood there
stunned. 5 degrees!? Good grief, I can _look_ at the front wheels and
tell within about 3 degrees of where they are. 5 degrees is so far off
my front tires would be shredded on one side within 5K miles!



They must work on really skinny tired cars for something like that not
to matter. Even then I'd bet they notice some serious pulling to one
side. Of course, most Hunter alignment machines don't get calibrated
enough to get closer than +/-2 degrees, so I guess this shop wasn't much
worse than many!



Needless to say I never went there again. This is why I do my own
alignment. My schedule, no waiting, and I'm absolutely sure I've done
it right. I don't pay the price for bad alignment in tire bills
anymore!



Keven

________________________________

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Chris Kelly
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 10:36 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment



I'll respectfully disagree with that. Setting our rear steer cars with
the stock caster setting is asking for wander. I dial all our cars in
to 3 degrees +/- 1/2 degree. It makes a HUGE difference in the handling
of the cars. For cars that do drag racing, error on the plus side for
better top end control. A zero or negative setting will make the car
very easy to steer - and make it want to wander all over the place.
Good for grandma with a manual wheel - not good for anything else.



=====================================
Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.com
raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================






________________________________


From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Coates, Keven
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 8:03 AM
To: Chris Kelly
Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment

Castor isn't nearly as crucial as the other alignments. It
doesn't affect whether the car goes straight except during braking.
Castor mainly determines the resistance to turning of the wheels, or the
self centering effect.



It is an important alignment, but being within a few degrees is
sufficient. The main reason I (and most commercial shops) don't bother
to set it is that once it's set, it remains and isn't affected by toe or
camber adjustments.



Keven


________________________________




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Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)


On Nov 8, 2006, at 10:57 AM, Walt Boeninger wrote:

> Sorry. Couldn't resist..... slow morning....


Reminds me of 'Stand By Me', which was on TV this past weekend :-)


--
Brandon Peskin
1965 Poppy Red Coupe
Antioch, CA

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Mail From: walt (Walt Boeninger)



Coates, Keven wrote:

> On a related note I once had an alignment shop tell me that they set
> camber to within 5 degrees of the factory specs.

They must not actually adjust many cars ..... i'll bet 99.99% of all
cars are within 5 degrees... that makes for 5 minute $59 alignments..

--

Regards
--------------
Walt Boeninger
mailto:webmaster at norcal-saac.org
norcal-saac.org

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Mail From: wal (Wal Marshall)

> On a related note I once had an alignment shop tell me that they set
> camber to within 5 degrees of the factory specs.

Actually the eye is surprisingly acccurate for camber and toe in.

I had a shop reset my Mustang and even before it came off the machine I could tell they got it wrong.

Most guys will find they can pick camber to half a degree either side of vertical very easily. (Crounching down about a car length ahead of the car and sighting carefully. Toe-in is a little harder but with care Ive found 1-2 degree is achiveable by sighting across to the rear wheels.

Cheers, Wal Marshall



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Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

Exactly, they just adjust toe in/out and call it good. That's what they
did with me.

Keven
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Walt
Boeninger
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 1:27 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment



Coates, Keven wrote:

> On a related note I once had an alignment shop tell me that they set
> camber to within 5 degrees of the factory specs.

They must not actually adjust many cars ..... i'll bet 99.99% of all
cars are within 5 degrees... that makes for 5 minute $59 alignments..

--

Regards
--------------
Walt Boeninger
mailto:webmaster at norcal-saac.org
norcal-saac.org

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Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

Yes, I'd agree. I can do that with my car sighting across the back
wheels



Keven

________________________________

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Wal
Marshall
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 1:44 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment



> On a related note I once had an alignment shop tell me that they set
> camber to within 5 degrees of the factory specs.



Actually the eye is surprisingly acccurate for camber and toe in.



I had a shop reset my Mustang and even before it came off the machine I
could tell they got it wrong.



Most guys will find they can pick camber to half a degree either side of
vertical very easily. (Crounching down about a car length ahead of the
car and sighting carefully. Toe-in is a little harder but with care Ive
found 1-2 degree is achiveable by sighting across to the rear wheels.



Cheers, Wal Marshall





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Mail From: ckelly (Chris Kelly)

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Mail From: W427 (David)

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Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)

I came across this June 2004 Mustang and Fords alignment article. Thought it might be of interest.

fly-ford.com/MustangFords0404-AlignmentScience.html

Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike H
To: Mike M.
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 12:58 PM
Subject: [CM] DIY alignment


Has anyone used a magnetic alignment gauge (like the link below) to set your front end alignment? Curious to know how well (or poorly) it actually works.

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wheel-Alignment-Caster-Camber-Gauge-New-NO-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ013QQitemZ230047504368QQrdZ1

After I replace my suspension I'd like to be able to do my own alignment without having to buy expensive tools. Any suggestions or tricks-of-the-trade?

Thanks.


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Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)

Actually, there are a number of interesting article reprints there. fly-ford.com/index.html

Here's another alignment article from 2003...

fly-ford.com/MustangFords0404-AlignmentScience.html

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: MICHAEL MASTROIANNI
To: Mike M.
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment


I came across this June 2004 Mustang and Fords alignment article. Thought it might be of interest.

fly-ford.com/MustangFords0404-AlignmentScience.html

Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike H
To: Mike M.
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 12:58 PM
Subject: [CM] DIY alignment


Has anyone used a magnetic alignment gauge (like the link below) to set your front end alignment? Curious to know how well (or poorly) it actually works.

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wheel-Alignment-Caster-Camber-Gauge-New-NO-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ013QQitemZ230047504368QQrdZ1

After I replace my suspension I'd like to be able to do my own alignment without having to buy expensive tools. Any suggestions or tricks-of-the-trade?

Thanks.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------


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Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/



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Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

Those are good articles, although very short and not quite as detailed
as would be nice (as is the case with every mustang magazine I've ever
seen, but that's another story).



The tape measure method looks really prone to error, but the
explanations were good.



Thanks Mike!



Keven

________________________________

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 7:19 AM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment



Actually, there are a number of interesting article reprints there.
fly-ford.com/index.html



Here's another alignment article from 2003...



fly-ford.com/MustangFords0404-AlignmentScience.html



Mike



----- Original Message -----

From: MICHAEL MASTROIANNI <mailto:mastros at verizon.net>

To: Mike M. <mailto:mastros at verizon.net>

Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 8:15 AM

Subject: Re: [CM] DIY alignment



I came across this June 2004 Mustang and Fords alignment
article. Thought it might be of interest.



fly-ford.com/MustangFords0404-AlignmentScience.html



Mike

----- Original Message -----

From: Mike H <mailto:mahilly at gmail.com>

To: Mike M. <mailto:mastros at verizon.net>

Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 12:58 PM

Subject: [CM] DIY alignment



Has anyone used a magnetic alignment gauge (like the
link below) to set your front end alignment? Curious to know how well
(or poorly) it actually works.




cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wheel-Alignment-Caster-Camber-Gauge-New-N
O-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ013QQitemZ230047504368QQr
dZ1
<cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wheel-Alignment-Caster-Camber-Gauge-New-
NO-RESERVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ013QQitemZ230047504368QQ
rdZ1%20>



After I replace my suspension I'd like to be able to do
my own alignment without having to buy expensive tools. Any suggestions
or tricks-of-the-trade?



Thanks.


________________________________


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca

lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki!
sauce.donair.org/~cm/


________________________________


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
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Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

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