Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)

I've got a 65 coupe with power brakes.

My brake pedal rattles and my stoplight switch is kind of loose over
the shaft.

On the brake pedal shaft that connects to the push rod I have (from
outside to inside)

cotter pin -> one leg of the stop light switch -> pushrod -> other
leg of the stoplight switch -> plastic washer.

Under ``replacing the stoplight switch'' in the shop manuals I have
the instructions say ``remove the bushing'' but I don't have a bushing.

Thinking this was my problem, I bought one of these:
www.mustangsplus.com/images/00431sm.gif but can't figure out how it
goes on. Anyone done this/messed with this area before? I broke the
bushing trying to get it on there so I must not be doing something
right. I'm glad they're only $1.95.

Second:

My stoplight switch looks like this: mustangsplus.com/
images/01067lg.jpg

Which side goes outward toward the cotter pin/retainer? This could be
part of my problem with the bushing. It's such a PITA to get under
there that in my frustration I'm sure I'm missing something stupid.

Any information is appreciated, as always.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: dano (Dan O'Reilly)

I think you have the wrong bushing. There's one that goes thru the master
cylinder push rod. On my '71 that I'm doing, the shop manual shows plastic
washer -> 1 leg of the switch -> pushrod with bushing installed in it ->
other leg of the switch -> plastic washer. I suspect you need very much
the same setup. Mustangs Plus sells the pushrod bushing on the same
catalog page where you found the other bushing.

At 12:17 AM 2/23/2007, Brandon Peskin wrote:
>I've got a 65 coupe with power brakes.
>
>My brake pedal rattles and my stoplight switch is kind of loose over
>the shaft.
>
>On the brake pedal shaft that connects to the push rod I have (from
>outside to inside)
>
>cotter pin -> one leg of the stop light switch -> pushrod -> other
>leg of the stoplight switch -> plastic washer.
>
>Under ``replacing the stoplight switch'' in the shop manuals I have
>the instructions say ``remove the bushing'' but I don't have a bushing.
>
>Thinking this was my problem, I bought one of these:
>www.mustangsplus.com/images/00431sm.gif but can't figure out how it
>goes on. Anyone done this/messed with this area before? I broke the
>bushing trying to get it on there so I must not be doing something
>right. I'm glad they're only $1.95.
>
>Second:
>
>My stoplight switch looks like this: mustangsplus.com/
>images/01067lg.jpg
>
>Which side goes outward toward the cotter pin/retainer? This could be
>part of my problem with the bushing. It's such a PITA to get under
>there that in my frustration I'm sure I'm missing something stupid.
>
>Any information is appreciated, as always.
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

---

Dan O'Reilly
1966 Nightmist Blue Pony Coupe
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: rick (rick)

Brandon,
The bushings you show below go on the brake pedal pivot pin not the
master cylinder push rod.

I just fixed mine last fall so it is still fresh in my mind. These
plastic bushing fit on the brake support (large brace between the
firewall and steering tube/dash). You will need to remove the brake
pedal pin to replace these. The original bushing I had were fine but I
added a clutch pedal so I updated the design.

rick
66 coupe
> -----Original Message-----

> I've got a 65 coupe with power brakes.
>
> My brake pedal rattles and my stoplight switch is kind of
> loose over the shaft.
>
> On the brake pedal shaft that connects to the push rod I have
> (from outside to inside)
>
> cotter pin -> one leg of the stop light switch -> pushrod ->
> other leg of the stoplight switch -> plastic washer.
>
> Under ``replacing the stoplight switch'' in the shop manuals
> I have the instructions say ``remove the bushing'' but I
> don't have a bushing.
>
> Thinking this was my problem, I bought one of these:
> www.mustangsplus.com/images/00431sm.gif but can't figure out
> how it goes on. Anyone done this/messed with this area
> before? I broke the bushing trying to get it on there so I
> must not be doing something right. I'm glad they're only $1.95.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mahilly (Mike H)

It's been years since i did this so I don't remember, but I can tell you
that it is a lot easier working under there if you remove your steering
wheel.

On 2/22/07, Brandon Peskin <mustang at peskin.org> wrote:
>
> I've got a 65 coupe with power brakes.
>
> My brake pedal rattles and my stoplight switch is kind of loose over
> the shaft.
>
> On the brake pedal shaft that connects to the push rod I have (from
> outside to inside)
>
> cotter pin -> one leg of the stop light switch -> pushrod -> other
> leg of the stoplight switch -> plastic washer.
>
> Under ``replacing the stoplight switch'' in the shop manuals I have
> the instructions say ``remove the bushing'' but I don't have a bushing.
>
> Thinking this was my problem, I bought one of these:
> www.mustangsplus.com/images/00431sm.gif but can't figure out how it
> goes on. Anyone done this/messed with this area before? I broke the
> bushing trying to get it on there so I must not be doing something
> right. I'm glad they're only $1.95.
>
> Second:
>
> My stoplight switch looks like this: mustangsplus.com/
> images/01067lg.jpg
>
> Which side goes outward toward the cotter pin/retainer? This could be
> part of my problem with the bushing. It's such a PITA to get under
> there that in my frustration I'm sure I'm missing something stupid.
>
> Any information is appreciated, as always.
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
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Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

>It's been years since i did this so I don't remember, but I can tell
you that it is a lot easier working under there if you remove your
steering wheel.

I think taking the engine and transmission out is helpful too ;-) Also,
make sure to disconnect your ground clamp before changing oil, checking
your dipstick, or any other non-electrical operation ;-) (these are not
intended to slam the above post, only for fun given the recent thread of
removing the engine to fix the fuse!).



Seriously though, it depends on your size. If you're a thinner person,
you may be able to move the seat all the way back and come in from the
side, with half of your body hanging kind of out the door. This is
generally more comfortable than the "headstand" position which is
essentially jamming your head where your feet usually go and putting
your feet where your head usually goes.



Also be sure to use a fluorescent, LED, or other cool trouble light when
doing this. Face burns from incandescent trouble light cages are NO
FUN! I use a cordless Makita ML123 light and it's awesome if you have
Makita cordless tools.



Keven '68 302 Mustang

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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: walt (Walt Boeninger)



Coates, Keven wrote:
>
> Also be sure to use a fluorescent, LED, or other cool trouble light when
> doing this. Face burns from incandescent trouble light cages are NO
> FUN! I use a cordless Makita ML123 light and it?s awesome if you have
> Makita cordless tools.

...and a cordless phone so you can call for help when you get stuck....

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)


On Feb 23, 2007, at 8:43 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> Also be sure to use a fluorescent, LED, or other cool trouble light
> when doing this. Face burns from incandescent trouble light cages
> are NO FUN! I use a cordless Makita ML123 light and it?s awesome
> if you have Makita cordless tools.
>
>

Apparently you're spying on me. I got a burn the other night

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

Been there, done that! That, and the fact that incandescent bulbs burn
out the instant you jar them at all is why I'm forever switched. I love
my cordless fluorescent, but the corded fluorescents are nice too.
They're cheap enough now that it's not much of an issue.

Got an old trouble light you're attached to? Just stick one of those
compact fluorescent regular bulb replacements into your old incandescent
trouble light and you're good to go!

There's no reason to burn your face, hands, legs, or cuss out the light
since it blew out when you dropped it, leaving you to search the garage
for another bulb!

Keven

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Brandon Peskin
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 12:31 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] brake pedal rattles/brake pedal shaft bushing
replacement?


On Feb 23, 2007, at 8:43 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> Also be sure to use a fluorescent, LED, or other cool trouble light
> when doing this. Face burns from incandescent trouble light cages
> are NO FUN! I use a cordless Makita ML123 light and it's awesome
> if you have Makita cordless tools.
>
>

Apparently you're spying on me. I got a burn the other night
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)


On Feb 23, 2007, at 6:34 AM, Dan O'Reilly wrote:

> I think you have the wrong bushing. There's one that goes thru the
> master
> cylinder push rod. On my '71 that I'm doing, the shop manual shows
> plastic
> washer -> 1 leg of the switch -> pushrod with bushing installed in
> it ->
> other leg of the switch -> plastic washer. I suspect you need very
> much
> the same setup. Mustangs Plus sells the pushrod bushing on the same
> catalog page where you found the other bushing.


This?

mustangsplus.com/images/00873sm.gif

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: dano (Dan O'Reilly)

yup

At 11:57 AM 2/23/2007, Brandon Peskin wrote:

>On Feb 23, 2007, at 6:34 AM, Dan O'Reilly wrote:
>
> > I think you have the wrong bushing. There's one that goes thru the
> > master
> > cylinder push rod. On my '71 that I'm doing, the shop manual shows
> > plastic
> > washer -> 1 leg of the switch -> pushrod with bushing installed in
> > it ->
> > other leg of the switch -> plastic washer. I suspect you need very
> > much
> > the same setup. Mustangs Plus sells the pushrod bushing on the same
> > catalog page where you found the other bushing.
>
>
>This?
>
>mustangsplus.com/images/00873sm.gif
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

---

Dan O'Reilly
1966 Nightmist Blue Pony Coupe
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)


On Feb 23, 2007, at 11:11 AM, Dan O'Reilly wrote:

> yup

Thanks, I ordered one

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: SSEXSMITH (Sexsmith, Scott)

I agree. I converted my old incandescent (burn your face) drop lights
to fluorescent about a year ago. Just switched out the bubs and they
seems to be doing just fine. They seem to be a bit less resistant to
breaking also.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Coates, Keven
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 10:42 AM
To: Sexsmith, Scott
Subject: Re: [CM] brake pedal rattles/brake pedal shaft bushing
replacement?

Been there, done that! That, and the fact that incandescent bulbs burn
out the instant you jar them at all is why I'm forever switched. I love
my cordless fluorescent, but the corded fluorescents are nice too.
They're cheap enough now that it's not much of an issue.

Got an old trouble light you're attached to? Just stick one of those
compact fluorescent regular bulb replacements into your old incandescent
trouble light and you're good to go!

There's no reason to burn your face, hands, legs, or cuss out the light
since it blew out when you dropped it, leaving you to search the garage
for another bulb!

Keven

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Brandon Peskin
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 12:31 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] brake pedal rattles/brake pedal shaft bushing
replacement?


On Feb 23, 2007, at 8:43 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> Also be sure to use a fluorescent, LED, or other cool trouble light
> when doing this. Face burns from incandescent trouble light cages
> are NO FUN! I use a cordless Makita ML123 light and it's awesome
> if you have Makita cordless tools.
>
>

Apparently you're spying on me. I got a burn the other night
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: patrick.tisdale (Patrick Tisdale)

Or you could take the drivers seat out. That will come out about as fast
as the steering wheel, and then you have tons of room to "waller" around.

Patrick

PS I'm pulling my 289 heads this weekend and taking them to a machine
shop on Monday morning for a valve job. Woohoo!

Coates, Keven wrote:
>
> >It's been years since i did this so I don't remember, but I can tell
> you that it is a lot easier working under there if you remove your
> steering wheel.
>
> I think taking the engine and transmission out is helpful too ;-)
> Also, make sure to disconnect your ground clamp before changing oil,
> checking your dipstick, or any other non-electrical operation ;-)
> (these are not intended to slam the above post, only for fun given the
> recent thread of removing the engine to fix the fuse!).
>
> Seriously though, it depends on your size. If you?re a thinner person,
> you may be able to move the seat all the way back and come in from the
> side, with half of your body hanging kind of out the door. This is
> generally more comfortable than the ?headstand? position which is
> essentially jamming your head where your feet usually go and putting
> your feet where your head usually goes.
>
> Also be sure to use a fluorescent, LED, or other cool trouble light
> when doing this. Face burns from incandescent trouble light cages are
> NO FUN! I use a cordless Makita ML123 light and it?s awesome if you
> have Makita cordless tools.
>
> Keven ?68 302 Mustang
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: SSEXSMITH (Sexsmith, Scott)

Whoops! I meant to say that the fluorescent are MORE resistant to
breakage. Sorry about that...

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Sexsmith, Scott
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 11:39 AM
To: Sexsmith, Scott
Subject: Re: [CM] brake pedal rattles/brake pedal shaft bushing
replacement?

I agree. I converted my old incandescent (burn your face) drop lights
to fluorescent about a year ago. Just switched out the bubs and they
seems to be doing just fine. They seem to be a bit less resistant to
breaking also.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Coates, Keven
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 10:42 AM
To: Sexsmith, Scott
Subject: Re: [CM] brake pedal rattles/brake pedal shaft bushing
replacement?

Been there, done that! That, and the fact that incandescent bulbs burn
out the instant you jar them at all is why I'm forever switched. I love
my cordless fluorescent, but the corded fluorescents are nice too.
They're cheap enough now that it's not much of an issue.

Got an old trouble light you're attached to? Just stick one of those
compact fluorescent regular bulb replacements into your old incandescent
trouble light and you're good to go!

There's no reason to burn your face, hands, legs, or cuss out the light
since it blew out when you dropped it, leaving you to search the garage
for another bulb!

Keven

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Brandon Peskin
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 12:31 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] brake pedal rattles/brake pedal shaft bushing
replacement?


On Feb 23, 2007, at 8:43 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> Also be sure to use a fluorescent, LED, or other cool trouble light
> when doing this. Face burns from incandescent trouble light cages
> are NO FUN! I use a cordless Makita ML123 light and it's awesome
> if you have Makita cordless tools.
>
>

Apparently you're spying on me. I got a burn the other night
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/