Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: charlie10 (charlie ledogar)

Hi,

I've owned my '66 200CID convertible for about 10 years now. The car
has drum brakes front and rear. It's once again time for a complete
brakes job (cylinders + pads + springs, F+R). The estimate is
somewhere around $700 (yes kindof pricey!).

Since this seems to be a complete brake job, I'm wondering if this
might be a good time to invest in front disk brakes, or some sort of
other improvement? The drum brakes are ok, but the car certainly
doesn't stop on a dime. My goal for the car is to slowly have it
restored (engine is already rebuilt), with an eye towards safety, and
I don't mind spending a few hundred $ more for a better braking
system. Front disc brakes are an option, but that 4 lug-nut kit seems
to run about $1000 + labor. Is this a worthwhile improvement, and /
or do other good improvements exist?

Thanks for any suggestions!

- Charlie

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: bomber44 (Rob)

As far as i am concerned anything is better than the four wheel
drums. There are several manufacturer's out there with very good
bolt on kits SSBC (Stainless Steel Brake Corp) and MPB (master power
brake) all of which advertise in Mustang Monthly.

It's probably the best safety feature you could add to your car

At 06:26 PM 1/5/2007 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I've owned my '66 200CID convertible for about 10 years now. The car
>has drum brakes front and rear. It's once again time for a complete
>brakes job (cylinders + pads + springs, F+R). The estimate is
>somewhere around $700 (yes kindof pricey!).
>
>Since this seems to be a complete brake job, I'm wondering if this
>might be a good time to invest in front disk brakes, or some sort of
>other improvement? The drum brakes are ok, but the car certainly
>doesn't stop on a dime. My goal for the car is to slowly have it
>restored (engine is already rebuilt), with an eye towards safety, and
>I don't mind spending a few hundred $ more for a better braking
>system. Front disc brakes are an option, but that 4 lug-nut kit seems
>to run about $1000 + labor. Is this a worthwhile improvement, and /
>or do other good improvements exist?
>
>Thanks for any suggestions!
>
>- Charlie
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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Mail From: Lance (Lance Robaldo)

We all know the downfall of drum brakes, especially the so-called "lever
effect" that could lead to lockups.



But I have to play devils advocate here for just a moment.



I just spent about $1200 to totally rebuild the braking system on my son's
66 coupe. It's a 4 wheel drum and I kept it that way.



I did modify it slightly to have a dual Master Cylinder. In my opinion THAT
is the biggest safety feature you can add. (followed closely by 3 pt belts
and headrests)



I also added a Mustang Steve : MustangSteve.com
<mustangsteve.com/> power brake booster to the system.



I'm AMAZED at how good the brakes are now! They out-perform my 94 Saleen
brakes and WAY outperform my 2005 Chevy Venture.





Lance.



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Mail From: draftercorp (Draftercorp)

IMHO for the 300 above and beyond the 700 it would cost you I would go ahead
and do it. From a safety standpoint not "overdriving" your car is the best
bit of safety you can manage. Of the two times I have locked up the brakes
in my 67 I was traveling far too fast for conditions.

Andy
Custom Vinyl Decals and More...
ajwalkerdesign.com/

----- Original Message -----
From: "charlie ledogar" <charlie10 at gmail.com>
To: <draftercorp at ajwalkerdesign.com>
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 6:26 PM
Subject: [CM] '66 Mustang: brakes upgrade?


> Hi,
>
> I've owned my '66 200CID convertible for about 10 years now. The car
> has drum brakes front and rear. It's once again time for a complete
> brakes job (cylinders + pads + springs, F+R). The estimate is
> somewhere around $700 (yes kindof pricey!).
>
> Since this seems to be a complete brake job, I'm wondering if this
> might be a good time to invest in front disk brakes, or some sort of
> other improvement? The drum brakes are ok, but the car certainly
> doesn't stop on a dime. My goal for the car is to slowly have it
> restored (engine is already rebuilt), with an eye towards safety, and
> I don't mind spending a few hundred $ more for a better braking
> system. Front disc brakes are an option, but that 4 lug-nut kit seems
> to run about $1000 + labor. Is this a worthwhile improvement, and /
> or do other good improvements exist?
>
> Thanks for any suggestions!
>
> - Charlie
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.6/617 - Release Date: 1/5/2007
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)

I didn't upgrade to front discs either. I just replaced everything...drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, lines & added a power booster too. I also upgraded the rear drums from the 1 3/4" to 2" shoes.

There's a guy on ebay that sells a stainless steel power brake setup (dual mc & booster) for 65/66 & 67-70 that doesn't require any pedal change-over. As an added bonus, the Modern Driveline cable clutch clears it with room to spare on my '68.

Although my car still isn't on the road yet, it's encouraging to hear that your power assist drum brakes are working that good!

Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Lance Robaldo
To: Mike M.
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 11:48 AM
Subject: Re: [CM] '66 Mustang: brakes upgrade?


We all know the downfall of drum brakes, especially the so-called "lever effect" that could lead to lockups.



But I have to play devils advocate here for just a moment.



I just spent about $1200 to totally rebuild the braking system on my son's 66 coupe. It's a 4 wheel drum and I kept it that way.



I did modify it slightly to have a dual Master Cylinder. In my opinion THAT is the biggest safety feature you can add. (followed closely by 3 pt belts and headrests)



I also added a Mustang Steve : MustangSteve.com power brake booster to the system.



I'm AMAZED at how good the brakes are now! They out-perform my 94 Saleen brakes and WAY outperform my 2005 Chevy Venture.





Lance.





------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

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Mail From: chrisstephens (Chris Stephens)

Here is my take on the whole thing I could be wrong:

Drum brakes, if adjusted properly will work better than simular sized disc. IF they don't get wet or over heat! Drums like you said have the " lever or cam effect" that makes the shoes push harder (because of the rotation) with less effort. They have to many parts and adjusters hardly work as they should.

Discs don't hold moisture and autoadjust better. The design cools off faster also. But, it takes more pressure and more fluid volume to get the same braking forces as drums. With the correct MC and power, discs will give you more consistant and predictible braking.


I expect your drums will work great untill they get wet or out of adjustment. If one drum gets moisture in it it won't work as well and it will pull to one side. If they overheat, the pads will gas and give you less and less braking untill they cool off.


Chris

----- Original Message -----
From: Lance Robaldo
To: chrisstephens at charter.net
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: [CM] '66 Mustang: brakes upgrade?


We all know the downfall of drum brakes, especially the so-called "lever effect" that could lead to lockups.



But I have to play devils advocate here for just a moment.



I just spent about $1200 to totally rebuild the braking system on my son's 66 coupe. It's a 4 wheel drum and I kept it that way.



I did modify it slightly to have a dual Master Cylinder. In my opinion THAT is the biggest safety feature you can add. (followed closely by 3 pt belts and headrests)



I also added a Mustang Steve : MustangSteve.com power brake booster to the system.



I'm AMAZED at how good the brakes are now! They out-perform my 94 Saleen brakes and WAY outperform my 2005 Chevy Venture.





Lance.





------------------------------------------------------------------------------


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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Mail From: jem (John Miller)

> Drum brakes, if adjusted properly will work better than simular sized
> disc. IF they don't get wet or over heat!

Brakes are all about converting vehicle motion into heat. So it's a
matter of getting a braking system that can most effectively do this,
evenly and effectively, and transfer that heat to the passing air.

Drums, as you've said, have a few problems. They trap water, they
usually go bell-shaped when they get hot which means you don't get the
full surface of the shoe contacting the drum, and most drum designs
don't transfer heat out of the friction surface as efficiently as a
disc. Plus, they have to be kept in adjustment, either through manual
adjustment or (often unreliable) self-adjusting linkages.

The four-wheel drums that were OE on both my '64 Country Sedan and my
'66 Falcon 289 were inconsistent and unreliable as all hell until the
self-adjusters were ripped out, which meant a four-wheel brake
adjustment every three months. Additionally, the Falcon drums were
useless for probably 500ft after any standing water (now THAT was a
thrill...)

The Falcon got Granada front discs and a Versailles rear axle (we're
talking 1980) but it's long-gone now. The front hubs to put a set of
Merc ML55 13.5x1.4 rotors on the wagon just came back from the machine
shop, now it's time to mock up the brackets for the 996TT
calipers...after all, an old Galaxie wagon has weight distribution an
awful lot like a rear-engine Porsche.

The '65 Mustang convertible is getting a Baer 2-piston PBR front kit
w/12in rotors (fits in 16in wheels), freshened used Baer single-piston
PBR stuff in back, and a MustangSteve pedal and booster (4cyl Fairmont
part IIRC) with a SN95 V6 26mm dual-circuit master cylinder. This is
basically the combo I had in my '89 LX (the rear brakes and MC are
takeoffs from the '89 - different pedal/booster, of course) and it felt
and worked very nicely.

> the " lever or cam effect" that makes the shoes push harder (because
> of the rotation) with less effort.

The biggest problem with self-energizing drum brakes is that it makes
the brakes harder to modulate smoothly. Apply the pedal, the shoe
wrapup adds more force and you have to back off which causes the shoes
to unwrap and you lose more braking effort than you wanted to remove.

> I'm AMAZED at how good the brakes are now! They out-perform my 94
> Saleen brakes and WAY outperform my 2005 Chevy Venture.

Okay, go out and do ten hard stops from 70mph, try not to lock any
wheels. At the end of ten stops you'll likely still have brakes in the
Saleen, and probably in the Venture. I'd bet you money you won't with
the old Mustang drums, unless you've had Porterfield work you up a set
of shoes with R-4S material on them, and even then you've probably
turned the drums all egg-shaped.

John.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: W427 (David)

I'd have to agree with all the good features of discs. I would like to
indicate, however, that not all can either afford, want or allow for
upgrade discs. In that vein, drums can be very reliable and efficient,
when equipped with good parts and sensible driving. If your drums can
lock-up the tires - and any factory setup should - you have enough. Any
factory drum system should be able to skid to a stop if operating
properly and without undue effort on the pedal. This requires good
parts, properly assembled and adjusted.

The cheapest set of shoes is likely not the good parts. Reusing the
original springs, bushings, guide pins, etc. is not good parts. Turning
the drums past max diameter is foolish. Then, if it's not clean and
assembled properly (do you use the high heat *brake* grease on the right
spots?) they won't work right and you'll cuss the day you heard the word
'drum'. It really is not difficult or magic - just follow the shop
manual and don't get creative.

A couple things I learned while driving my first hipo drum car, were
auto-adjusting, overheat and wet driving. The adjusters don't work in
daily easy driving and must be 'forced' to adjust from time to time.
The shop manual outlines this. Rapid low-speed stopping in reverse
loads the adjuster and causes it to auto-adjust for you. If it's been a
long time you may have to do the forward/reverse dance several times to
get a high firm pedal. It works well if you have good clean parts.

I found I had to run three back-to-back 1/4 mile runs at over 100mph to
get brake fade on the cheapest name-brand parts store shoes. If you're
driving that hard - you should get better parts, know you're limits, and
stay within in them. Most of us don't and have no worries even on long
downhill mountain driving - with good parts and sensible driving.

An everglades Game Warden first taught me about wet deep water driving
as he does it every day in the outback. I'm not talking heavy rain or
anything light, but rather the flooded street scenario. Keep your speed
reasonable for other reasons, and lightly ride your brakes as you pass
through it and as you come out. You may have to add just a bit bit
extra throttle to compensate. Once out push the brakes a bit harder to
verify they're okay before accelerating. Heat is obviously not an issue
and there are no other negative consequences to the brakes. The lightly
applied brakes prevent water from coating the friction surface. I have
used this technique for many years and it works well for both drum and
disc - which are also prone in deep water.

Safety is the number one priority and you should do whatever it takes to
get it. If drums don't do it for you then by all means upgrade, but if
you can afford to put $150 - $250 in good parts onto good drums
(assuming the hydraulic system is solid) then you should have good
brakes. Here's my local parts store cost break down for "better" grade
new Raybestos hardware on a '66 V8, including just about everything on
the end of the axles:

All 4 drums - new: 9" $100 or 10" $125
Full hardware kits (4): $24
Front and rear shoes: $53
Cleaner, brake grease, brake fluid: $10

Of course if you have someone else do it add somewhere between a pizza
and $300 to it. Note that all the parts are new and there's only
disassembly, some cleaning and new assembly involved with 1 to 2 hours
of labor and about $20 in brake tools if you don't have them... oh and
don't forget the manual!

FWIW,
David

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: ckelly (Chris Kelly)

I'd agree with just about everything except your costs. A single 10" drum
at Advance Auto is $67 for a 67 Mustang. I bought a pair of new disk rotors
last year - $50 each. The current listed lowest cost at the Advance site is
$56. Rebuilt calipers run $17 and a set of organic pads is $25. I swapped
over to manual disks back in about 1997 - after 10 years of cruising and
about 1800 drag laps, the rear shoes still have plenty of meat. I've been
through 3 sets of front pads. If using stock type parts sourced from a
wrecking yard, the swap does not have to cost a lot of money - even if you
decide to buy new rotors. With a replacement MC, new bearings and seals and
some lines there's no reason the swap has to exceed $400 with all new parts
excepting the spindles.

=====================================
Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.net
raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================

>
> All 4 drums - new: 9" $100 or 10" $125
> Full hardware kits (4): $24
> Front and rear shoes: $53
> Cleaner, brake grease, brake fluid: $10
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

I switched to Granada front disk brakes for about $200 including new
calipers and disks. This was far less than the cost to rebuild my
drums.

Rear disks are great, but not necessary for daily driving, and require a
bit of angling to do cheaply. I upgraded my rears for less than $400.

I also felt that my drums were excellent when I got the Mustang. It
wasn't long before they were not adjusting properly and the wet weather
driving was a thrill in Houston where it floods often (although the
riding the brakes through the water tip does work). Add that to the
rollercoaster ride I get when I tried to stop from higher speeds and I
was very happy to get rid of them.

Sure, you can stop pretty well with drums in good operating condition,
but unless originality is a concern, I'm not sure why you would want to.

Keven

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Chris Kelly
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 6:40 AM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] '66 Mustang: brakes upgrade?

I'd agree with just about everything except your costs. A single 10"
drum
at Advance Auto is $67 for a 67 Mustang. I bought a pair of new disk
rotors
last year - $50 each. The current listed lowest cost at the Advance
site is
$56. Rebuilt calipers run $17 and a set of organic pads is $25. I
swapped
over to manual disks back in about 1997 - after 10 years of cruising and
about 1800 drag laps, the rear shoes still have plenty of meat. I've
been
through 3 sets of front pads. If using stock type parts sourced from a
wrecking yard, the swap does not have to cost a lot of money - even if
you
decide to buy new rotors. With a replacement MC, new bearings and seals
and
some lines there's no reason the swap has to exceed $400 with all new
parts
excepting the spindles.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)

Check out this link

classicundercar.com/store/category.php?cat=Brakes&make=Ford

I bought a full set of drums & wheel cylinders last year from them and I was
very pleased with the quality & price.

Nothing against Advance Auto, I have bought a lot of parts for my Mustang
from them. But I doubt that they're giving you any better drum for about 3
times the price.

My V8 coupe originally had 1 3/4" drums in the rear, and decided to upgrade
to 2 inch while I was at it.

Mike


----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Kelly" <ckelly at raceabilene.com>
To: "Mike M." <mastros at verizon.net>
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: [CM] '66 Mustang: brakes upgrade?


> I'd agree with just about everything except your costs. A single 10" drum
> at Advance Auto is $67 for a 67 Mustang. I bought a pair of new disk
> rotors
> last year - $50 each. The current listed lowest cost at the Advance site
> is
> $56. Rebuilt calipers run $17 and a set of organic pads is $25. I
> swapped
> over to manual disks back in about 1997 - after 10 years of cruising and
> about 1800 drag laps, the rear shoes still have plenty of meat. I've been
> through 3 sets of front pads. If using stock type parts sourced from a
> wrecking yard, the swap does not have to cost a lot of money - even if you
> decide to buy new rotors. With a replacement MC, new bearings and seals
> and
> some lines there's no reason the swap has to exceed $400 with all new
> parts
> excepting the spindles.
>
> =====================================
> Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.net
> raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
> Merkel, Texas
> Member:
> International Hot Rod Association
> Abilene Performance Car Association
> Falcon Club of America
> =====================================
>
>>
>> All 4 drums - new: 9" $100 or 10" $125
>> Full hardware kits (4): $24
>> Front and rear shoes: $53
>> Cleaner, brake grease, brake fluid: $10
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)


On Jan 8, 2007, at 5:44 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> I switched to Granada front disk brakes for about $200 including new
> calipers and disks. This was far less than the cost to rebuild my
> drums.


That cost is very tempting versus the kit I've been looking ($999
conversion kit by SSBC) from Mustangs Plus. Did you have to swap to
granada spindles and outer tie rods? Re-do your wheel bearings? Did
you need to change to a dual reservoir master cylinder or did you
already have one?

I've got factory power drums on my '65 with a single reservoir master
cylinder. Even if I had to spend $500 on a granada swap, thats still
cheaper than a $1000 SSBC kit. Does anyone have SSBC brakes out
there? Are they worth the money?

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: W427 (David)

I'm sorry to hear your local prices are so high. I directly priced my
closest parts store (Schuck's of the Parts America group) and specified
all Raybestos Professional Grade parts. They are better parts as, for
example, the front shoes are $16 a set for Raybestos standard and $30
for the PG grade I quoted, plus I added a few bucks buffer for tax.
Check the site yourself with these links. My zip is 98370 and you may
want to compare localized prices just for giggles:

Drums, front 9":
<partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=2640DGS&parttype=222&ptset=A>
Drums, rear 9":
<partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=2640DGS&parttype=222&ptset=A>
Drums, front 10":
<partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=1634&parttype=222&ptset=A>
Drums, rear 10":
<partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=2637&parttype=222&ptset=A>
Hardware kits:
<partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=507045&parttype=354&ptset=A>
Shoes, front:
<partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=154PG&parttype=219&ptset=A>
Shoes, rear:
<partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=151PG&parttype=220&ptset=A>

So I guess it's dependent on where you get them.

David

Chris Kelly wrote:
> I'd agree with just about everything except your costs. A single 10" drum
> at Advance Auto is $67 for a 67 Mustang. . . .
>
> =====================================
> Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.net
>
>
>> All 4 drums - new: 9" $100 or 10" $125
>> Full hardware kits (4): $24
>> Front and rear shoes: $53
>> Cleaner, brake grease, brake fluid: $10

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: dano (Dan O'Reilly)

Advance Auto Parts, Checker, and a couple others (O'Reilly's, I think) all
use PartsAmerica. If you print out the prices you find there & take them
to one of those stores, they will sell you the parts at the online
price. I do it all the time.

At 04:17 PM 1/8/2007, David wrote:
>I'm sorry to hear your local prices are so high. I directly priced my
>closest parts store (Schuck's of the Parts America group) and specified
>all Raybestos Professional Grade parts. They are better parts as, for
>example, the front shoes are $16 a set for Raybestos standard and $30
>for the PG grade I quoted, plus I added a few bucks buffer for tax.
>Check the site yourself with these links. My zip is 98370 and you may
>want to compare localized prices just for giggles:
>
>Drums, front 9":
><partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=2640DGS&parttype=222&ptset=A>
>Drums, rear 9":
><partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=2640DGS&parttype=222&ptset=A>
>Drums, front 10":
><partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=1634&parttype=222&ptset=A>
>Drums, rear 10":
><partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=2637&parttype=222&ptset=A>
>Hardware kits:
><partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=507045&parttype=354&ptset=A>
>Shoes, front:
><partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=154PG&parttype=219&ptset=A>
>Shoes, rear:
><partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=151PG&parttype=220&ptset=A>
>
>So I guess it's dependent on where you get them.
>
>David
>
>Chris Kelly wrote:
> > I'd agree with just about everything except your costs. A single 10" drum
> > at Advance Auto is $67 for a 67 Mustang. . . .
> >
> > =====================================
> > Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.net
> >
> >
> >> All 4 drums - new: 9" $100 or 10" $125
> >> Full hardware kits (4): $24
> >> Front and rear shoes: $53
> >> Cleaner, brake grease, brake fluid: $10
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

---

Dan O'Reilly
1966 Nightmist Blue Pony Coupe
1971 Bright Red Mach 1
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: ckelly (Chris Kelly)

That's where the $67 price came from - Advance Auto online, or Parts
America. If you shop, you don't have to pay too much. A chinese drum or
disk is a chinese drum or disk, no matter what you pay. HOWEVER - if you
could source a real American part, you'll have less trouble getting the
races installed. I got the same price at my zip code, I just didn't see the
Raybestos price in my search the first time.

=====================================
Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.net
raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================


> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On
> Behalf Of Dan O'Reilly
> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 5:22 PM
> To: Chris Kelly
> Subject: Re: [CM] '66 Mustang: brakes upgrade?
>
> Advance Auto Parts, Checker, and a couple others (O'Reilly's,
> I think) all use PartsAmerica. If you print out the prices
> you find there & take them to one of those stores, they will
> sell you the parts at the online price. I do it all the time.
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: ckelly (Chris Kelly)

Even if you stick with drums, you should upgrade to a dual MC. If you're
using new disks or dums, why not replace the wheel bearings. On the swap,
you typically will need to use the donor outers. Unless they come from a
manual steer car and you have power, or vice-versa. Lengths will vary.


=====================================
Chris Kelly - ckelly at raceabilene.net
raceabilene.net/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================


> -----Original Message-----
> From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
> [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On
> Behalf Of Brandon Peskin
> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 11:57 AM
> To: Chris Kelly
> Subject: Re: [CM] '66 Mustang: brakes upgrade?
>
>
> On Jan 8, 2007, at 5:44 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:
>
> > I switched to Granada front disk brakes for about $200
> including new
> > calipers and disks. This was far less than the cost to rebuild my
> > drums.
>
>
> That cost is very tempting versus the kit I've been looking
> ($999 conversion kit by SSBC) from Mustangs Plus. Did you
> have to swap to granada spindles and outer tie rods? Re-do
> your wheel bearings? Did you need to change to a dual
> reservoir master cylinder or did you already have one?
>
> I've got factory power drums on my '65 with a single
> reservoir master cylinder. Even if I had to spend $500 on a
> granada swap, thats still cheaper than a $1000 SSBC kit. Does
> anyone have SSBC brakes out there? Are they worth the money?
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