Mustangs List FAQ - Part 3

MUSTANGS MAILING LIST FAQ - PART 3, Version 1.1
Last updated 7/9/98

NOTE:  The information in this document is correct to the best of the
author's knowledge.  However,  due to a change in employers the author will
not be able to update/correct this document in the future.  The author
accepts no responsibility for any damage, injury, or other "loss" you
encounter while working on your car.

[The vast majority of the information included in this portion of the FAQ
was provided by Chris Behier and Evan Hawrysh.  Additional information came
from Steve Harrell and Calvin Sanders.  The document was assembled by Andre
Molyneux.]

This portion of the Mustangs FAQ covers stereos.  The bulk of this document
deals with replacing the factory sound system with aftermarket components,
although some information on the stock system is included.

Sound system types, components, and locations have changed significantly
during the production life of Fox-chassis based Mustangs.  The major
changes can be broken down into the following three groups:

	1979-1986
	1987-1993
	1994+

The majority of the information with regards to component locations and
fitting of aftermarket components applies to the 1987-1993 vehicles only.
Little information is (or likely ever will be) included for the earlier
cars.  Very little info is included for the 1994 cars at this point, but
expect more information on these cars to be added as list members gain
experience with them.

Information is broken down into the following sections:

     1) Information on the factory system
          1a) Removing the stock head unit
          1b) What can I do if my factory head unit is broken?
          1c) Is it true the ground wire is RED?
          1d) The stock speakers - locations and specs
	  1e) Noise in a stock system
	  1f) Connector pin-outs
     2) Aftermarket stereo installation concerns
	  2a) What will fit in the factory head unit location?
          2b) What size aftermarket speakers can be fit in the stock
              locations?
	  2c) How much power can the stock electrical system handle?
	  2d) Where is a good place to route wires through the firewall?
	  2e) What are some sources of noise?
     3) Some installation examples
          3a) Speaker Installations
	  3b) My install - Even Hawrysh (ehawrysh@bnr.ca)
	  3c) Additional information from Chris Behier

A lot of good information was lumped into section 3 due to lack of time to
break it out and list it separately.  Hopefully future editions of this
part of the FAQ will break this down better.


========================================================================
1) Information on the factory system
========================================================================

------------------------------------------------------------------------
1a) Removing the stock head unit
------------------------------------------------------------------------

1994+

The Mach 460 system and CD unit have the same holes as the 1987-1993
Mustangs, so pulling the units out should be the same as before.


1987-1993 vehicles

The head unit is held in place by four clips, two on each side.  If you
look at the front of the unit, you will notice a small hole near each
corner of the faceplate.  The holes provide access for a special tool to
release the clips.  The Ford tool looks something like this:

               o------\
                       \
                        \
                        /
                       /
               o------/

The tool is made of stiff metal wire.  You should be able to obtain this
tool from Ford or from a car audio dealer.  Alternatively, you can make
your own tool.  Take a dowel long enough to reach between the two holes on
one side of the head unit (plus a little extra), plus a couple of nails
approximately 3/16" in diameter and at least 2" long.  Measure the distance
between the holes, and drive the nails through the dowel with the same
spacing.  Dulling the point and making a little "ball" on the end of each
nail (with a dremel tool or file) will help it fit in the clips better.
The finished tool should look something like this (obviously not in scale
with the drawing above):

      -------------------------
     |                         |
      -------------------------
        |                  |
        |                  |
        |                  |
        |                  |
        |                  |
        |                  |
        o                  o

Having two tools will make getting the head unit out easier, but in a pinch
you can get by with one.  Insert the tool(s) into the holes on each side of
the faceplate about 1/2" (much further and the clips won't be engaged
correctly), at which point you should feel them "catch".  Push outward on
the "handle" of the tool to release the catch, and pull the head unit
forward (with a single tool you'll need to release one side, hold it
forward so that it doesn't re-latch, then do the other side).  Disconnect
the wiring harnesses and antenna-connector, and it's out.

The equalizer or plastic bin is attached to the head unit and will come out
with it.  The amplifier (if so equipped) is located behind the head unit
and should be easily visible when the head unit is pulled.  Remove two
screws and disconnect the wiring harness and it'll come right out.

Stephen Foley adds:

The factory amp is not always in the dash in the 87 - 93 mustangs.  I
own a 93 lx with a JBL system and the factory amp is under the front
passenger seat.

For reference, if the mustang has TWO wiring harnesses, one a long
rectangular plug, and the other a shorter, more square like plug, it is a
JBL system.  That is about the only way to tell the JBL system apart from
the standard audio system.  Ford really made sure that the system would be
hard to identify.  GM is at least courteous enough to let the owner know
they have a bose system by having delco/bose stamped on the front of the
radio. 


1979-1986 vehicles

The radio/stereo on these earlier vehicles are harder to remove, as they
have to come out the back.  The radio is held in place by two bolts, one
underneath and one behind.  You may need to move the center console out of
the way (see the shop manual) to get at the bottom bolt.  Then disconnect
the two wiring harnesses and the antenna connector.  The radio is now
loose, but there's no room to maneuver it out of the dash.

To continue you will need to loosen the lower edge of the dash so that it
can be pulled back to give the radio a path out of there.  You'll find a
metal bar running along the lower edge of the dash on the passenger side,
under the glove compartment.  You'll find that it's bolted to the chassis
in front of the passenger-side door, and to a support over the transmission
tunnel.  Remove both these bolts and you should be able to pull the lower
edge of the passenger-side dash back towards the rear of the car.

Now comes the fun part:  You need to pull the dash out of the way with one
hand, while you rotate and pull the radio to maneuver it out from behind
the dash with the other.  You may find it easiest to recline the passenger
seat as far as possible and lay on it upside-down, with your feet in the
back seat and your head in the passenger-side footwell.  Pull on the lower
edge of the dash with your left hand while you extract the radio with your
right.  You will find that you need to maneuver the radio carefully in order
to extract it.

The amplifier (for premium sound systems) is located at the top-center of
the dash, where the single-speaker would have been for mono radios.  Remove
the dash pad (held in place by screws above the instrument panel and glove
box area, plus a couple in the defroster vents up top) to gain access.
 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
1b) What can I do if my factory head unit is broken?
------------------------------------------------------------------------

As far as I have seen there is only a couple of options.  The Ford
Dealership will charge you dearly for a stereo repair and it will take
a long time to get fixed as it goes out to Ford Electric Service.  The
next best thing is to go to a junkyard of Late Model dead Mustangs, or
just late model junkyards.  They will have your radio/amplifier for
you.  If you're getting a premium sound system, note that there are a large
number of wires connecting the head-unit to the amplifier.  If you remove
a premium system from a junked vehicle yourself, remove the amp that goes
with it and there will be less wires to reconnect.  If you don't care to
have the same old stock radio, then this is the perfect opportunity to get
a new aftermarket stereo unit.  Then all kinds of possibilities exist.


------------------------------------------------------------------------
1c)  Is it true the ground wire is RED?
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes, the RED wire is identified as the "amplifier return wire" and is
terminated with a screw to the metal dash frame. It is the system ground.


------------------------------------------------------------------------
1d) The stock speakers - locations and specs
------------------------------------------------------------------------

1994+

Locations for the Mach 460 are as follows.  There are two mid/high
speakers up from right where the mirrors are (inside of the car).  They
are triangular in shape and fit very nicely and discretely.  The next
two pairs are at the doors, and these are mid/subs just like the rear
ones, which are located on the rear deck.  Note that the rear speakers
are not enclosed but have a port going into the trunk of the car, so
replacing those speakers would require the same response of the stock
speakers to use the physical configuration of the factory.

1987-1993

The stock speakers vary depending on whether you have the "base" or
"premium" level stereo:

     Base system:      Total of 4 speakers
                       Speaker impedance:  3.2 ohms

     Premium system:   Total of 6 speakers
                       Speaker impedance:  6 ohms (8 ohms for coaxes)

Speaker locations:

Dash:
  Located on either side of the dashboard.  Stock speaker size is 3.5".

Doors (premium systems only):
  Located at the lower forward edge of each door.  Stock speaker size is
  5.25".

Rear:
  Speaker location varies by the body style of vehicle.  For hatchbacks,
  the speakers are located on either side of the rear seat backs.  On
  convertibles, the speakers are located on either side of the rear seat,
  but farther forward than on the hatchbacks.  Coupes have the rear
  speakers suspended underneath the shelf behind the rear seatback.  Stock
  speaker size for all locations is 4x6".

Stephen Foley adds:

The speaker sizes are for the most correct, but the closest possible
factory fit in the rear on a 93 hatchback is a 6 x 8 (pioneer makes one)
or a 5 x 7.  5 x 7 is the most agreed upon size for replacing the
infamous ford 6 x 8 factory speaker.


1979-1986

Go far enough back and you'll still find cars with AM-only radios and a
single speaker.  I believe that all "stereo" radios came with four
speakers, but I could be wrong.

Speaker locations:

Dash:
  - AM-only installations will have a single speaker located in the center
    of the dash.  Speaker size looks to be about a 4x6".  Impedance - who
    cares?
  - Stereo installations have a speaker at either side of the dash.  Size
    is approximately 3", but I've never measured.  Impedance unknown.

Doors:
  No 1979-1986 Mustangs came from the factory with speakers in the doors.

Rear:
  Hatchbacks have the rear speakers at the aft end of the cargo area behind
  the rear seats.  The speakers are mounted low against the floor and face
  *sideways* at each other.  Not a particularly good setup.  Coupes have
  the speakers suspended underneath the shelf behind the rear seatback.
  Stock speaker size for both locations is 4x6".  Impedance unknown.


------------------------------------------------------------------------
1e) Noise in a stock system
------------------------------------------------------------------------

The stock system should be free of any alternator whine or ignition
popping.  If these symptoms crop up on a stock system, you should check the
following:

  All power and ground connections to the head unit and amplifier are solid
   and free of corrosion.

  Verify that the antenna connector is fully inserted and making good
   contact.  You may also need to check the connection at the antenna
   itself, which will require getting into the fender.

  Make sure you have resistor-type spark plugs and that all plugs and wires
   are in good condition.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
1f) Connector pin-outs
------------------------------------------------------------------------

(This information should apply to 1987-1993 cars)

From: calvin@jonathan.com (Calvin Sanders)

There are 2 plugs (though they may be molded into one piece of plastic on
some Fords) one is refered to as the power plug the other is the speaker
plug. Each is an 8 pin plug, though on the power plug 3 of the pins are
not used and therefore the pins are missing. I also have some wiring
colors, these may or may not match the wire colors on your Mustang. The
order of the pins can be figured out from the missing pins.

   POWER PLUG
pin#   wire color      application
 1     yellow          12 volt constant - memory, clock, battery
 2     not used
 3     red             12 volt ignition (switched)
 4     orange          dash lights (illumination)
 5     not used
 6     black           radio chassis ground
 7     blue            power antenna
 8     not used    

   SPEAKER PLUG
 1     white           left front positive
 2     white/black     left front negative
 3     green           left rear positive
 4     green/black     left rear negative
 5     gray            right front positive
 6     gray/black      right front negative
 7     violet          right rear positive
 8     violet/black    right rear negative

Again don't count on the colors, but the order is correct


========================================================================
2) Aftermarket stereo installation concerns
========================================================================

------------------------------------------------------------------------
2a) What will fit in the factory head unit location?
------------------------------------------------------------------------

1994+

A full-size DIN unit will fit; not sure beyond that.

1987-1993

It is a tight fit, but two full DIN units can be installed in the radio
area. The typical scenario is an aftermarket CD player installed below
the factory radio/tape player.

Mounting h/w plates are widely available that allow a full DIN with a 1/2
DIN location below it. Some ideas for items to mount in the 1/2 DIN are
EQs, preamps, electronic xovers, the Sony 1/2 DIN tape player (now
discontinued), and with some modifications, the mid-80s Ford clocks (that
had date, time, and elapsed time functions in a near 1/2 DIN size - they
could be found in some Escorts).

With some trimming, the factory plastic pocket will fit in the DIN area,
to fill up the opening left by a pull-out head unit.

1979-1986

There's room for one full DIN unit, and that's all.


------------------------------------------------------------------------
2b)  What size aftermarket speakers can be fit in the stock locations?
------------------------------------------------------------------------

This section covers the stock speaker locations only.  For ideas on
additional speaker placements, please see section 3.

1987-1993

Dash:

The most common replacements are either tweeters or 3.5" coaxial speakers.
Tweeter placement can be accomplished by using a metal u-shaped bracket
to countersink the tweeter below the dash level. The bracket can be bent
or twisted to modify tweeter angle for imaging purposes.

Doors:

This location is best used for mounting a midrange driver to complement
a tweeter. Typical driver size is a 5.25", although some 6.5" drivers will
also fit. Beware of mounting depth. The window rail can be pushed back
almost an inch without affecting operation. Those with power windows have
to be careful - the location of the motor will decrease the available
depth.  The factory template is 3 holes - most aftermarket drivers will
require redrilling for 4.

Hatch rear:

Most often, replacement of these speakers require a custom mounting board,
since the factory ones are screwed onto the back of the plastic grill;
this type of mounting is not sufficient to hold heavier speakers
comfortably, but is a worthwhile location for rear fill speakers.

Common replacements for this speaker are 4x6" plate speakers or a 5.25 or
6.5" midrange/midbass driver, mounted on a custom board. 6x9s will fit,
but special attention has to be given to mounting.

Coupe rear:

These speakers are mounted on the shelf behind the rear seatback.  There's
room for 6x9" speakers back here, but you may need to remove some sheet
metal.

Convertible rear:

6x9" Speakers can be fitted with some difficulty.


------------------------------------------------------------------------
2c)  How much power can the stock electrical system handle?
------------------------------------------------------------------------

from Chris Behier:

Well, with underdrive pulleys on the car and a stock alternator, I can
barely make 450 watts RMS (900 peak).  Fuses are rated for 25Amps and
30Amps for my two Amplifiers.  Now if you like loud base, then don't
get underdrive pulleys !  and if you to suck up more juice, then a
second battery/alternator are possible routes with an Isolator of
course.  It all depends how big of a system are you willing to live
with, I just wanted not to exceed my stock alternator and get great
sound quality, with 900 watts max I'm real satisfied.  I would not
go over 60 Amps peak, this could be too much of a drain on the car.


------------------------------------------------------------------------
2d)  Where is a good place to route wires through the firewall?
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Depending on the gauge and number of wires you are running through the
firewall, the wires can be run through the factory wiring harness
grommets.  There is one on both the driver's and passenger's side of the
firewall.  There is a metal ring on the driver's side grommet which needs
to be loosened prior to running another wire through. Lubing up the wire
with dish soap makes it easier to push it through.

If you end up having to make an additional hole through the firewall, make
sure to clean up any sharp edges and install a grommet.  Otherwise you
risk having the wire insulation chafe against metal edges, eventually
resulting in a short-circuit.


------------------------------------------------------------------------
2e)  What are some sources of noise?
------------------------------------------------------------------------

The Mustang is known for having problematic noise on audio systems,
especially alternator whine, but that doesn't mean you have to live
with it. There are a few things you can do to minimize the noise in
your system before going the route of installing noise filters.

Ensure that there is little potential difference between the grounding
points of your head unit and other components (amps, xovers, EQs, etc),
while at the same time minimizing the ground wire lengths. Also make
sure you use a ground wire of equal gauge to the power wires for each
component. Also, solder all connections, and seal them with some
heat-shrink tubing.


========================================================================
3) Some installation examples
========================================================================

------------------------------------------------------------------------
3a) Speaker installations
------------------------------------------------------------------------

In the rear hatch location 

>From chrisbe@autodesk.com:

Hatchback - I fitted 6x9's in the rear 1/4 panels with difficulty (had
to remove some of the sound proofing material).  In the doors, 5 1/4 to
5 1/2 inch speaker will fit but the depth of the speaker needs to be
shallow due to clearance problems.  It is a good idea to place mid
range woofers there, or something that will not produce a lot of base
to minimize the magnet size.  I had 5 1/4's mid range speakers in there
for both the GT and the GT conv.  Up front I had placed 1"
supertweeters with a home made bracket I created.  but 3 1/2" speakers
should fit in there.  A subwoofer box can be made for the trunk area.
I had an enclosed, 2 12" subs in a box that was geometrically jammed in
the trunk area.  This way I would not need to drill any holes in the
interior and was easely removable.  It also fitted under the pull down
vinyl cover that is in the trunk for a stealthier look.  The subs were
mounted vertically behind the rear seats, and enclosed the recommended
volume from the Sub manufacturer.

From: ehawrysh@bnr.ca (speaker: Legacy LS6920 3-way 6x9):

The requirement is a speaker that can have a deep magnet/piston, or basket, 
but not a wide one. There is also tailight wiring that is collected and
fastened to the fender well behind the insulation with a big plastic clip
which might cut down on your depth. It can be moved out of the way to
provide more depth. There wasn't one on the passenger's side of my
vehicle.

If you're not using a speaker or adapter that mates with the face of the
stock grill, be sure to seal off the any potential openings that may
cause cancellation of sound waves from the front and back of the speaker
i.e. seal off the area between the speaker face and the grill. If this
isn't done correctly, you will get little bass from your drivers.

Anyways, here's what I did to make them fit. I placed the speaker into
the opening behind the grill, so that it rested on top of the insulation.
Next, I removed the metal grill from the plastic frame that came with the
speakers, and placed the frame on the speaker (ie both frame and speaker
fit into the opening. The plastic extensions on the factory grill (where
the screws go into) would come into contact with the frame, though. I 
needed a way to anchor the speaker as well. So I drilled holes into the 
frame (one was already there; for securing the frame to a deck in a 
normal application) into which the plastic extensions fit snugly, and
allowed the factory grill to fit into place. This also served to secure
the speaker. I also used the frame to mount some weatherstripping between
the frame and the factory grill to isolate front from back. 

Magnet size and diameter is a big thing here. There is room for a big
magnet, but the diameter cannot be too large (ie large in depth, but not
dia). The magnet rests against the insulated inner fender well. There is
also tailight wiring that is collected and fastened to the fender well
behind the insulation with a big plastic clip which might cut down on your
depth. I just removed the clip, and this was no longer a factor.

This is a very tight fit, and the holes have to be drilled precisely, but
it can be done. And I think it's easier fitting a 6x9 than say a 6.5 round
(at least it probably looks better through the grill. Oh, the sound is great.
Decent bass too. But when I get my sub in, it'll start up from where these
left off! Hope this helps.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
3b) My install - ehawrysh@bnr.ca
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Appendix B: My install - ehawrysh@bnr.ca

Here's the setup:

head unit:
   Alpine 7903s CD tuner 4ch preamp pull-out

active xover: 
   Coustic XM-3
   input: 4ch from tuner
   output: 2ch to Cupid 22wpc 2ch amp (xover 120Hz)
   2ch to 2ch of Sony amp 33wpc (xover 100Hz)
   1ch mono sub output to bridged ch of Sony (xover 100Hz)
   mounted underneath front passenger seat

Cupid amp:
   to JBL TN05 passive xovers, 12db/oct
   mounted underneath front passenger seat

passive xovers:
   highpass to JBL T05 tweeters in dash (xover 3kHz)
   full range to 6 db/oct lowpass (coil) to JBL T51 mids (xover 3kHz) in doors
   coils mounted in door
   JBL xovers mounted behind head unit

Sony amp:
   2ch to Legacy LS6920 6x9s in stock rear locations
   mono bridged channel to homemade isobaric tube sub
   mounted under driver's seat

Sub: 
   2 - Rockford Fosgate SP-88 drivers mounted face-face, wired in parallel
   isobaric design, sealed enclosure
   held in with strap for easy removal and access to spare

Totally stealth design (except sub, but I covered it in the same carpeting
as the interior, so it blends in. It's also at the very back of the car, so
the hatch partially covers it. If the hatch cover is over it, it's covered
completely. The 7903s is a pullout. When it's out, I put the factory plastic
pocket into the sleeve.

I have a mounting kit which consists of an opening for a din and a 1/2 din.
The 1/2 din opening holds a green LED clock from a mid -80's Ford Escort
and includes date,time, and elapsed time. 


------------------------------------------------------------------------
3b) Additional information from Chris Behier
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hatchback - I fitted 6x9's in the rear 1/4 panels with difficulty (had
to remove some of the sound proofing material).  In the doors, 5 1/4 to
5 1/2 inch speaker will fit but the depth of the speaker needs to be
shallow due to clearance problems.  It is a good Idea to place Mid
range woofers there, or something that will not produce a lot of base
to minimize the magnet size.  I had 5 1/4's mid range speakers in there
for both the GT and the GT conv.  Up front I had placed 1"
supertweeters with a home made bracket I created.  but 3 1/2" speakers
should fit in there.  A subwoofer box can be made for the trunk area.
I had an enclosed, 2 12" subs in a box that was geometrically jammed in
the trunk area.  This way I would not need to drill any holes in the
interior and was easely removable.  It also fitted under the pull down
vinyl cover that is in the trunk for a stealthier look.  The subs were
mounted vertically behind the rear seats, and enclosed the recommended
volume from the Sub manufacturer.

Convertible - The only changes from the above are the rear speakers and
the Subwoofer setup.  I designed an Isobaric system with the wheelwell
as the enclosure, bridged my amp and it worked wonders.  The only thing
about 12" in a convertible is that you need volume for the subs - which
you ain't got much.  The trunk space acts as the open air side of the
speaker, but the trunk needs porting for even better results as it is
still a little suffocating for the system to work at its best.  Smaller
Subs can be placed back there, four 8" subs on a board, maybe a tube
would work too, but then you are assured to lose your precious trunk
space.  I currently have 2 amps, 1 EQ, 2 12" subs, and a CD changer in
there.  I can still fit 4 grocery bags back there - which is not bad
considering the space we are provided with.  For the rear 1/4 panels,
6x9's will work with a little of pushing and shoving.  I got 6x9 4 way
speakers right now which are great.  For the sub design I can be
contacted, and I could fax the dimentioned drawing of it.

What is an Isobaric System ?

Isobaric means constant pressure in thermodynamic terms.  The setup is
like this:

                -------
                |     |  <--Sub 1
                -------
               /       \
     _________/         \__________
              \         /
               \       /        Enclosed side.
                -------
                |     |  <--Sub 2
                -------

The Speakers work in MONO where one of the poles of the speakers is
reversed to achieve the following.  As one speaker pushes (say sub 2)
upward, the top speaker will pull upward, conserving the pressure
between the speakers constant.  By having the MONO setup, you can
bridge your amp and have two speaker wires hooked up to the single
output of the amp.  Subwoofer frequencies are so low that a stereo
effect is pretty useless and is pretty much unidirectional, so the
orientation of the speakers don't matter much (they don't need to point
in any particular direction).  Also the beauty of the system is that
only one volume for the subs is required.  Enclosing the bottom speaker
to the correct volume of one speaker will do the job and you save
yourself 1 volume of a 12" for example.

Where to put the CD changer ?

Not too close to the subs !  the vibration will make the CD player skip
at louder volumes which happened to me.  Place it firmly onto the
chassis either in your trunk or some other hidden place, but easely
accessible.

Wiring of the CD Changer ?

There are two way you can go, Analog or Digital.  Analog requires that
big thick chord provided with the CD changer to be fed through the
center console, under the carped at the rear hump, under the rear seat,
and into the trunk.  Digitally, an optical cable needs to be added.  As
this cable cannot take a bend more than a few inches in diameter, I
routed it along the bottom or the doorway, where it not get pinched and
take sharp turns.

Wiring to the amps - RCA's ?

Get *good* RCA cables the first time !  Yep, you might have to shell
out some buck for this but its worth it.  I initially put some cheap
wires but the static drives you up the wall if your amps are far from
the head unit.  Get double shielded RCA cables.  I got Phoenix Gold
wires after I had enough of hissing and in conjunction with the optical
cable it was an unbelievable experience of pure silence.  This way, you
get to hear true CD quality :)

1)  How to safely mount your stereo Equipment into the car to avoid
damaging your precious equipment ?

A CD changer should be mounted if possible onto the center line of the
car, this is where the CD player will get the least amounts of bumps,
and less skipping too.  The head unit should use the rail clip from the
stock stereo.  This of course requires you to take out the center
console to unbolt the little nut behind the unit.  It also helps to
prevent a thief from taking your stereo unit.  In my case the radio
portion of my unit had to be placed under the passenger seat, this
piece does not heat up a whole bunch, so it safe for the component to
be placed there, using one of the seat bolts as the grounding point.
This brings me to the amplifiers, one MUST place them in a well
ventilated place.  If they are high output amps, you might even be
required to add small fans to keep the amps cool.  Another note, is
that replacing the amp's metallic shell to show the interior might look
great, but the shell acts like a heat sink, and a plexiglass
replacement might heat up your amps even more.  Good locations are
behind the rear seats (mounted onto the rear seat fold down flaps), or
onto the trunk floor.  Depending on how much space you are willing to
sacrifice, you can always mount them any which way, in an airy, no
visible location.

1)  How does humidity affect my equipment?

        Then there is humidity that you need to worry about.  If your
connections are gold plated, then you must not worry too much but if
they are not, you will need to check your connections for oxidation
every once in a while (every 6 months maybe).  If you car happens to
leak (convertible especially), try to do your best to stop the leak.
On my convertible I had to remove all the windshield panels off,
silicone all of them shut to avoid any moisture in the vehicle.  Also
on rainy cold days, using the the AC and the heater together brings in
dry hot air, and helps to have your windows defogged.

2)  How does dust affect my equipment ?

        Well, dust as many people know, is one of the biggest enemies
of electronics.  Keeping you car clean and not smoking in you vehicle
will help to minimize the amount of dust.  Also having the windows
closed most of the time will help too, but for the fresh air lovers and
convertibles, it becomes a more acute problem and cleaning regularly
the vehicle is needed.

3)  Cleaning your equipment and removing some scratches.

        Well, a soft toothbrush will get into most little corners and
remove dirts without scratching anything if done gently.  If your glass
display is a little scratched, the use a fine rubbing compound and a
cloth to polish it out.  A rougher but smooth enough compound like
toothpaste can work, otherwise machinist compound or even turtle wax
can do it too.  (Turtle wax is extremely fine though).  I use Son of a
Gun on my convertible.  I found that Armor All is way to greasy for my
vinyl top of the convertible and for the interior of the car.  It makes
my unit look like new when I clean it with a little toothbrush and Son
of a Gun.  Also using Son of a Gun will repel dust after the
application onto your components.  If you have a tape deck in the car,
make sure you clean the tape head regularly.  This is one area of heavy
neglect and is a must to keep your sound, equipment, and tapes from
deterioration.  One must note that if you want to remove some scratches
off your equipment, make sure you do not apply any polishing compound
on lettering that has been painted or embossed as it is will rub it off
too, do this with extreme caution.


END OF MUSTANGS MAILING LIST FAQ - PART 3