SHOtimes List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Edward Mazurek <(email redacted)>

Hi,

On my 95 MTX I replaced the clutch with a shonut HD pressure
plate, disc and ceramic throwout bearing. I had the flywheel
ground as well.

Once I put it all together the clutch seemed very smooth and
good. Then, it seemed to get worse. On the inital take-up of
the clutch, the car would move forward smoothly. However, towards
the end of the clutch engagement, the car starts to shake.
I don't feel anything in the clutch pedal itself but the car
really shakes.

Another aspect of this is that it doesn't seem to do this when
the car has just started up first thing (when the engine is cold).

Did I do something wrong? I've replaced several clutches in my
time and never had a problem like this.

One thing I thought of, especially considering the fact it is
OK just starting off and gets worse once everything is warmed
up, is that could my engine mounts be bad? I didn't seem to
have a problem befor the clutch job, just a little chatter
and the clutch wasn't disengaging properly.

Any and all comments welcome!

Thanks,

Ed
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Mail From: "Dave Kegel" <(email redacted)>

Ed,

Which clutch is it? Is it the 9-puck clutch? If so, I think that's
normal. I heard they chatter like heck once they're hot.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of Edward Mazurek
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 1:13 PM
To: SHOTimes
Subject: [Shotimes] Problems after clutch job...


Hi,

On my 95 MTX I replaced the clutch with a shonut HD pressure plate, disc
and ceramic throwout bearing. I had the flywheel ground as well.

Once I put it all together the clutch seemed very smooth and good. Then,
it seemed to get worse. On the inital take-up of the clutch, the car
would move forward smoothly. However, towards the end of the clutch
engagement, the car starts to shake. I don't feel anything in the clutch
pedal itself but the car really shakes.

Another aspect of this is that it doesn't seem to do this when the car
has just started up first thing (when the engine is cold).

Did I do something wrong? I've replaced several clutches in my time and
never had a problem like this.

One thing I thought of, especially considering the fact it is OK just
starting off and gets worse once everything is warmed up, is that could
my engine mounts be bad? I didn't seem to have a problem befor the
clutch job, just a little chatter and the clutch wasn't disengaging
properly.

Any and all comments welcome!

Thanks,

Ed
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Mail From: "Robert Bruce" <(email redacted)>

Yup, Dave's right. I have Josh's 9 puck disc. It can chatter, but it's really all in how you let up on the pedal. When done
wrong, it does shake the whole car. When you let up on the pedal properly, it works fine and gives a nice launch. That disc is
great for the track, but takes some getting use to on the street.

If that is the clutch you're using, you should try letting the clutch pedal up just a bit faster while using just a bit less gas
pedal.

If you have less than Josh's reinforced motor mounts I would imagine the shaking could be quite severe. With old (worn) stock motor
mounts, well.... you will be replacing them very soon.

Bob Bruce
92 w/ a mod or two
95 mtx 100% bone stock

-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted) [mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of Dave Kegel
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 2:24 PM
To: 'SHOTimes'
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Problems after clutch job...

Ed,

Which clutch is it? Is it the 9-puck clutch? If so, I think that's
normal. I heard they chatter like heck once they're hot.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of Edward Mazurek
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 1:13 PM
To: SHOTimes
Subject: [Shotimes] Problems after clutch job...


Hi,

On my 95 MTX I replaced the clutch with a shonut HD pressure plate, disc
and ceramic throwout bearing. I had the flywheel ground as well.

Once I put it all together the clutch seemed very smooth and good. Then,
it seemed to get worse. On the inital take-up of the clutch, the car
would move forward smoothly. However, towards the end of the clutch
engagement, the car starts to shake. I don't feel anything in the clutch
pedal itself but the car really shakes.

Another aspect of this is that it doesn't seem to do this when the car
has just started up first thing (when the engine is cold).

Did I do something wrong? I've replaced several clutches in my time and
never had a problem like this.

One thing I thought of, especially considering the fact it is OK just
starting off and gets worse once everything is warmed up, is that could
my engine mounts be bad? I didn't seem to have a problem befor the
clutch job, just a little chatter and the clutch wasn't disengaging
properly.

Any and all comments welcome!

Thanks,

Ed
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Mail From: James White <(email redacted)>

After many, many miles and 13 years of MTX SHOs, and about 8 or
9 clutches, I have had this chatter happen twice.

Either it is the nature of the beast, or it is the lack of accuracy
of the guys that grind the flywheels.

The current '95MTX chatters a bit, but only at lower engine speeds.
I work around this by keepings the revs up a bit.

Rare that a SHO clutch friction material wears out before the release
finngers.

If it helps, keep the revs up and slip the clutch more than, maybe
you would like to. That is what I do now. Not too long from now,
I'll have a new clutch/reground flywheel...

regards, Jim White
'95mtx - 204k
'95mtx - 265k - sold
93mtx - 285k - runs, but has problems


At Tuesday, 23 May 2006, Edward Mazurek <(email redacted)> wrote:

>Hi,
>
>On my 95 MTX I replaced the clutch with a shonut HD pressure
>plate, disc and ceramic throwout bearing. I had the flywheel
>ground as well.
>
>Once I put it all together the clutch seemed very smooth and
>good. Then, it seemed to get worse. On the inital take-up of
>the clutch, the car would move forward smoothly. However, towards
>the end of the clutch engagement, the car starts to shake.
>I don't feel anything in the clutch pedal itself but the car
>really shakes.
>
>Another aspect of this is that it doesn't seem to do this when
>the car has just started up first thing (when the engine is cold).
>
>Did I do something wrong? I've replaced several clutches in my
>time and never had a problem like this.
>
>One thing I thought of, especially considering the fact it is
>OK just starting off and gets worse once everything is warmed
>up, is that could my engine mounts be bad? I didn't seem to
>have a problem befor the clutch job, just a little chatter
>and the clutch wasn't disengaging properly.
>
>Any and all comments welcome!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ed
>_______________________________________________
>Shotimes mailing list
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Edward Mazurek <(email redacted)>

Yes, I just checked... It is the 9 puck shonut clutch.

Great! I just spent a ton of money and time and now the
car drives like crap.

Is there anything I can do to allievate it or just replace
the disc? I've tried various engagement styles and it's
never smooth. Sometimes better than others.

How much would new motor mounts help? I hate to buy anything
else from shonut since there wasn't a warning or anything
by this disc indicating rough engagement. Buyer beware I guess...

Thanks,

Ed
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Mail From: "Paul L Fisher" <(email redacted)>

I know you enjoy getting kicked when down but a simple email before the
purchase to this list or SHOnut asking experiences with this clutch would of
warned you of the issues.


Paul L Fisher

Visit my website: paul-fisher.com
SHOClub Member: shoclub.com
Amsoil dealer: paul-fisher.com/oil


-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted) [mailtoemail redacted)]
On Behalf Of Edward Mazurek
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 1:21 PM
To: (email redacted)
Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...

Yes, I just checked... It is the 9 puck shonut clutch.

Great! I just spent a ton of money and time and now the
car drives like crap.

Is there anything I can do to allievate it or just replace
the disc? I've tried various engagement styles and it's
never smooth. Sometimes better than others.

How much would new motor mounts help? I hate to buy anything
else from shonut since there wasn't a warning or anything
by this disc indicating rough engagement. Buyer beware I guess...

Thanks,

Ed


--
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Edward Mazurek <(email redacted)>

Yep... Thanks. Live and learn. I've done several clutches
over the years and never had this issue. You would think that
shonut would list this issue or at least indicate that disc
is for track use or something!

Thanks,

Ed

Paul L Fisher wrote:

>I know you enjoy getting kicked when down but a simple email before the
>purchase to this list or SHOnut asking experiences with this clutch would of
>warned you of the issues.
>
>
>Paul L Fisher
>
>Visit my website: paul-fisher.com
>SHOClub Member: shoclub.com
>Amsoil dealer: paul-fisher.com/oil
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: (email redacted) [mailtoemail redacted)]
>On Behalf Of Edward Mazurek
>Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 1:21 PM
>To: (email redacted)
>Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...
>
>Yes, I just checked... It is the 9 puck shonut clutch.
>
>Great! I just spent a ton of money and time and now the
>car drives like crap.
>
>Is there anything I can do to allievate it or just replace
>the disc? I've tried various engagement styles and it's
>never smooth. Sometimes better than others.
>
>How much would new motor mounts help? I hate to buy anything
>else from shonut since there wasn't a warning or anything
>by this disc indicating rough engagement. Buyer beware I guess...
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ed
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Mail From: <(email redacted)>

All SHO clutches are crap...some are just less crappy than others
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Mail From: Edward Mazurek <(email redacted)>

I dunno... My last one which I had put on when I bought my SHO
@ 48K in 1997 at Ford was smooth for 100K. Never like this
shonut one.

Ed

(email redacted) wrote:

>All SHO clutches are crap...some are just less crappy than others
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Mail From: John Stout <(email redacted)>

Words from the man who has probably destroyed more SHO clutches than anyone . That was said as a compliment

(email redacted) wrote: All SHO clutches are crap...some are just less crappy than others
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John Stout
90 Titanium (Cone Killer) Back to everyday duty
05 Mazda 6 (Zoom Zoom)
People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf. Orwell
If you don't SUPPORT OUR TROOPS GFY




















---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2"/min or less.
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Mail From: John Stout <(email redacted)>

Words from the man who has probably destroyed more SHO clutches than anyone . That was said as a compliment

(email redacted) wrote: All SHO clutches are crap...some are just less crappy than others
_______________________________________________
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John Stout
90 Titanium (Cone Killer) Back to everyday duty
05 Mazda 6 (Zoom Zoom)
People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf. Orwell
If you don't SUPPORT OUR TROOPS GFY




















---------------------------------
Be a chatter box. Enjoy free PC-to-PC calls with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
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Mail From: "Dave Kegel" <(email redacted)>

Yes, but it wasn't a puck-type clutch. The stock-style clutches are
fine.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of Edward Mazurek
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 1:53 PM
To: (email redacted)
Cc: (email redacted)
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...


I dunno... My last one which I had put on when I bought my SHO @ 48K in
1997 at Ford was smooth for 100K. Never like this shonut one.

Ed

(email redacted) wrote:

>All SHO clutches are crap...some are just less crappy than others
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Mail From: <(email redacted)>

> I dunno... My last one which I had put on when I bought my SHO @ 48K in
> 1997 at Ford was smooth for 100K. Never like this shonut one.

Generally, and pucked clutch on any car is going to be more aggressive/
chattery. Do you have the fibertuff one? I don't even know what Josh is
selling for clutches these days. Does he offer the OEM disc/pp these days?

The OEM disc is fine for just about anything on an n/a motor, and just keep it
away from the drag strip. They are fairly smooth and hold for a decent
amount of torque if you keep the heat (slipping) off them. One of the ceramic
TOB's with a larger strapped PP and a stock disc works well enough (I have
that in my 92 now).
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Mail From: David Rosicke <(email redacted)>

Did you replace the Clutch Fork shaft bushings when you did the job? If not, I'm not surprised you had issues like this.

Dave R


Message: 1
Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 14:20:44 -0400
From: Edward Mazurek
To: (email redacted)
Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...

Yes, I just checked... It is the 9 puck shonut clutch.

Great! I just spent a ton of money and time and now the
car drives like crap.

Is there anything I can do to allievate it or just replace
the disc? I've tried various engagement styles and it's
never smooth. Sometimes better than others.

How much would new motor mounts help? I hate to buy anything
else from shonut since there wasn't a warning or anything
by this disc indicating rough engagement. Buyer beware I guess...

Thanks,

Ed
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Mail From: "Frank ''SHOrage'' Costa" <(email redacted)>

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Rosicke" <(email redacted)>
To: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 11:34 AM
Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...


> Did you replace the Clutch Fork shaft bushings when you did the job? If
> not, I'm not surprised you had issues like this.
>
> Dave R
>
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 14:20:44 -0400
> From: Edward Mazurek
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...
>
> Yes, I just checked... It is the 9 puck shonut clutch.
>
> Great! I just spent a ton of money and time and now the
> car drives like crap.
>
> Is there anything I can do to allievate it or just replace
> the disc? I've tried various engagement styles and it's
> never smooth. Sometimes better than others.
>
> How much would new motor mounts help? I hate to buy anything
> else from shonut since there wasn't a warning or anything
> by this disc indicating rough engagement. Buyer beware I guess...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> (email redacted)
> team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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Mail From: Edward Mazurek <(email redacted)>

Hi Frank,

Yes, I did replace the Clutch Fork shaft bushings. Apparently, this disc
is more high performance
than smooth.

Joshua, from SHONut, agreed to swap out the disc for a stock one. That's
a nice offer but the time
involved to swap it out! He mentioned that the website says: "The
Fibertuff material is still quite streetable, however. "
I guess that was supposed to tell me that it won't be as smooth as the
stock disc. I guess I need to learn
to read between the lines better.

I guess my question is, should I try and replace the motor mounts? Would
that help? They are pretty
expensive (around $300 for both). SHONut sells reinforced front and back
ones. Apparently the
MTX shock type mount is stock though - no beefier one there.

If I attempt to replace the motor mounts do I have to drop the entire
subframe again?

Thanks!

Ed
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Mail From: "Leigh Smith" <(email redacted)>

Ed;
If you suspect a torn motor mount, I would confirm that and replace that
part first. It is much easier and less labor intensive and can be done with
motor and subframe in the car. Basically just try to lift the engine, with a
floor jack or similar, and watch carefully for lift and separation at the
mount. And Yes; a torn mount willl give you some strange clutch chatter, or
exaggerate any chatter that may be present. That may or may not be your
whole problem, but it is a much easier place to start.
Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Mazurek" <(email redacted)>
To: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 4:54 PM
Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...


> Hi Frank,
>
> Yes, I did replace the Clutch Fork shaft bushings. Apparently, this disc
> is more high performance
> than smooth.
>
> Joshua, from SHONut, agreed to swap out the disc for a stock one. That's
> a nice offer but the time
> involved to swap it out! He mentioned that the website says: "The
> Fibertuff material is still quite streetable, however. "
> I guess that was supposed to tell me that it won't be as smooth as the
> stock disc. I guess I need to learn
> to read between the lines better.
>
> I guess my question is, should I try and replace the motor mounts? Would
> that help? They are pretty
> expensive (around $300 for both). SHONut sells reinforced front and back
> ones. Apparently the
> MTX shock type mount is stock though - no beefier one there.
>
> If I attempt to replace the motor mounts do I have to drop the entire
> subframe again?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> (email redacted)
> team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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Mail From: "Frank ''SHOrage'' Costa" <(email redacted)>

You will have to raise the engine off the subframe to chance the
mount......just use a jack and a block of wood and raise it from the oil
pan......you might have to loosen the front and rear subframe bolts to get
an extra half inch to removethe mount.....but you dont have to drop
it....thats a fact....

Frank
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Mazurek" <(email redacted)>
To: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 4:54 PM
Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...


> Hi Frank,
>
> Yes, I did replace the Clutch Fork shaft bushings. Apparently, this disc
> is more high performance
> than smooth.
>
> Joshua, from SHONut, agreed to swap out the disc for a stock one. That's a
> nice offer but the time
> involved to swap it out! He mentioned that the website says: "The
> Fibertuff material is still quite streetable, however. "
> I guess that was supposed to tell me that it won't be as smooth as the
> stock disc. I guess I need to learn
> to read between the lines better.
>
> I guess my question is, should I try and replace the motor mounts? Would
> that help? They are pretty
> expensive (around $300 for both). SHONut sells reinforced front and back
> ones. Apparently the
> MTX shock type mount is stock though - no beefier one there.
>
> If I attempt to replace the motor mounts do I have to drop the entire
> subframe again?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> (email redacted)
> team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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Mail From: Edward Mazurek <(email redacted)>

Hi Lee,

I don't remember seeing any of the motor mounts being torn or
broken. But, since they are rubber they may "losen up" without
actually tearing. I'm trying to decide if changing out the motor
mounts would allievate my problem to a large extent.

It's an easier place to start but still $300 or so in parts.

Thanks,

Ed

Leigh Smith wrote:

>Ed;
>If you suspect a torn motor mount, I would confirm that and replace that
>part first. It is much easier and less labor intensive and can be done with
>motor and subframe in the car. Basically just try to lift the engine, with a
>floor jack or similar, and watch carefully for lift and separation at the
>mount. And Yes; a torn mount willl give you some strange clutch chatter, or
>exaggerate any chatter that may be present. That may or may not be your
>whole problem, but it is a much easier place to start.
>Lee
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Edward Mazurek" <(email redacted)>
>To: <(email redacted)>
>Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 4:54 PM
>Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...
>
>
>
>
>>Hi Frank,
>>
>>Yes, I did replace the Clutch Fork shaft bushings. Apparently, this disc
>>is more high performance
>>than smooth.
>>
>>Joshua, from SHONut, agreed to swap out the disc for a stock one. That's
>>a nice offer but the time
>>involved to swap it out! He mentioned that the website says: "The
>>Fibertuff material is still quite streetable, however. "
>>I guess that was supposed to tell me that it won't be as smooth as the
>>stock disc. I guess I need to learn
>>to read between the lines better.
>>
>>I guess my question is, should I try and replace the motor mounts? Would
>>that help? They are pretty
>>expensive (around $300 for both). SHONut sells reinforced front and back
>>ones. Apparently the
>>MTX shock type mount is stock though - no beefier one there.
>>
>>If I attempt to replace the motor mounts do I have to drop the entire
>>subframe again?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Ed
>>_______________________________________________
>>Shotimes mailing list
>>(email redacted)
>>team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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Mail From: "Mike Wojton" <(email redacted)>

Leigh I should have had you drive my car when you were over to see what you
think. Mine chatters and bucks a little. When in reverse, the exhaust is
hitting the shifter bolts. I cut as much of the excess threads as I could
and it still hits. I think the rear motor mount is bad. I had the front
one replaced not too long ago. I just haven't gotten around to buying a new
rear mount yet.


--
Mike Wojton
Dover, PA

-'95 White MTX
'96 Brake Upgrade
Eibachs (front)
Dynomax catback

"Avoid the clap." - Jimmy Dugan


On 6/1/06, Edward Mazurek <(email redacted)> wrote:
>
> Hi Lee,
>
> I don't remember seeing any of the motor mounts being torn or
> broken. But, since they are rubber they may "losen up" without
> actually tearing. I'm trying to decide if changing out the motor
> mounts would allievate my problem to a large extent.
>
> It's an easier place to start but still $300 or so in parts.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed
>
> Leigh Smith wrote:
>
> >Ed;
> >If you suspect a torn motor mount, I would confirm that and replace that
> >part first. It is much easier and less labor intensive and can be done
> with
> >motor and subframe in the car. Basically just try to lift the engine,
> with a
> >floor jack or similar, and watch carefully for lift and separation at the
> >mount. And Yes; a torn mount willl give you some strange clutch chatter,
> or
> >exaggerate any chatter that may be present. That may or may not be your
> >whole problem, but it is a much easier place to start.
> >Lee
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Edward Mazurek" <(email redacted)>
> >To: <(email redacted)>
> >Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 4:54 PM
> >Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Hi Frank,
> >>
> >>Yes, I did replace the Clutch Fork shaft bushings. Apparently, this disc
> >>is more high performance
> >>than smooth.
> >>
> >>Joshua, from SHONut, agreed to swap out the disc for a stock one. That's
> >>a nice offer but the time
> >>involved to swap it out! He mentioned that the website says: "The
> >>Fibertuff material is still quite streetable, however. "
> >>I guess that was supposed to tell me that it won't be as smooth as the
> >>stock disc. I guess I need to learn
> >>to read between the lines better.
> >>
> >>I guess my question is, should I try and replace the motor mounts? Would
> >>that help? They are pretty
> >>expensive (around $300 for both). SHONut sells reinforced front and back
> >>ones. Apparently the
> >>MTX shock type mount is stock though - no beefier one there.
> >>
> >>If I attempt to replace the motor mounts do I have to drop the entire
> >>subframe again?
> >>
> >>Thanks!
> >>
> >>Ed
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Mail From: "Ron Porter" <(email redacted)>

When I had the "engine movement" issue in reverse, my tranny mount was shot.

Ron Porter


-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted) [mailtoemail redacted)]
On Behalf Of Mike Wojton
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 4:34 PM
To: (email redacted)
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...

Leigh I should have had you drive my car when you were over to see what you
think. Mine chatters and bucks a little. When in reverse, the exhaust is
hitting the shifter bolts. I cut as much of the excess threads as I could
and it still hits. I think the rear motor mount is bad. I had the front
one replaced not too long ago. I just haven't gotten around to buying a new
rear mount yet.


--
Mike Wojton
Dover, PA

-'95 White MTX
'96 Brake Upgrade
Eibachs (front)
Dynomax catback

"Avoid the clap." - Jimmy Dugan


On 6/1/06, Edward Mazurek <(email redacted)> wrote:
>
> Hi Lee,
>
> I don't remember seeing any of the motor mounts being torn or
> broken. But, since they are rubber they may "losen up" without
> actually tearing. I'm trying to decide if changing out the motor
> mounts would allievate my problem to a large extent.
>
> It's an easier place to start but still $300 or so in parts.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed
>
> Leigh Smith wrote:
>
> >Ed;
> >If you suspect a torn motor mount, I would confirm that and replace that
> >part first. It is much easier and less labor intensive and can be done
> with
> >motor and subframe in the car. Basically just try to lift the engine,
> with a
> >floor jack or similar, and watch carefully for lift and separation at the
> >mount. And Yes; a torn mount willl give you some strange clutch chatter,
> or
> >exaggerate any chatter that may be present. That may or may not be your
> >whole problem, but it is a much easier place to start.
> >Lee
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Edward Mazurek" <(email redacted)>
> >To: <(email redacted)>
> >Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 4:54 PM
> >Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Hi Frank,
> >>
> >>Yes, I did replace the Clutch Fork shaft bushings. Apparently, this disc
> >>is more high performance
> >>than smooth.
> >>
> >>Joshua, from SHONut, agreed to swap out the disc for a stock one. That's
> >>a nice offer but the time
> >>involved to swap it out! He mentioned that the website says: "The
> >>Fibertuff material is still quite streetable, however. "
> >>I guess that was supposed to tell me that it won't be as smooth as the
> >>stock disc. I guess I need to learn
> >>to read between the lines better.
> >>
> >>I guess my question is, should I try and replace the motor mounts? Would
> >>that help? They are pretty
> >>expensive (around $300 for both). SHONut sells reinforced front and back
> >>ones. Apparently the
> >>MTX shock type mount is stock though - no beefier one there.
> >>
> >>If I attempt to replace the motor mounts do I have to drop the entire
> >>subframe again?
> >>
> >>Thanks!
> >>
> >>Ed
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Leigh Smith" <(email redacted)>

I'd try just the front mount first. It takes 90% of the torque, unless you
floor it in reverse or downshift at 7000 rpm. It's only $100-130 too. and
can be changed by lifting the engine a little. Peer down there with a
flashlight while lifting and look for separation, you should be able to see
some if it's bad.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Mazurek" <(email redacted)>
To: "Leigh Smith" <(email redacted)>
Cc: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...


> Hi Lee,
>
> I don't remember seeing any of the motor mounts being torn or
> broken. But, since they are rubber they may "losen up" without
> actually tearing. I'm trying to decide if changing out the motor
> mounts would allievate my problem to a large extent.
>
> It's an easier place to start but still $300 or so in parts.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed
>
> Leigh Smith wrote:
>
> >Ed;
> >If you suspect a torn motor mount, I would confirm that and replace that
> >part first. It is much easier and less labor intensive and can be done
with
> >motor and subframe in the car. Basically just try to lift the engine,
with a
> >floor jack or similar, and watch carefully for lift and separation at the
> >mount. And Yes; a torn mount willl give you some strange clutch chatter,
or
> >exaggerate any chatter that may be present. That may or may not be your
> >whole problem, but it is a much easier place to start.
> >Lee
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Edward Mazurek" <(email redacted)>
> >To: <(email redacted)>
> >Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 4:54 PM
> >Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Hi Frank,
> >>
> >>Yes, I did replace the Clutch Fork shaft bushings. Apparently, this disc
> >>is more high performance
> >>than smooth.
> >>
> >>Joshua, from SHONut, agreed to swap out the disc for a stock one. That's
> >>a nice offer but the time
> >>involved to swap it out! He mentioned that the website says: "The
> >>Fibertuff material is still quite streetable, however. "
> >>I guess that was supposed to tell me that it won't be as smooth as the
> >>stock disc. I guess I need to learn
> >>to read between the lines better.
> >>
> >>I guess my question is, should I try and replace the motor mounts? Would
> >>that help? They are pretty
> >>expensive (around $300 for both). SHONut sells reinforced front and back
> >>ones. Apparently the
> >>MTX shock type mount is stock though - no beefier one there.
> >>
> >>If I attempt to replace the motor mounts do I have to drop the entire
> >>subframe again?
> >>
> >>Thanks!
> >>
> >>Ed
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>Shotimes mailing list
> >>(email redacted)
> >>team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> (email redacted)
> team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
_______________________________________________
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Leigh Smith" <(email redacted)>

A "puck" type clutch disc will never give you as smooth of a clutch
engagement as a stock disc. The reason: it has no "marcel" That is a wavy
flat spring under the facing of a stock disc that lets it grab and still be
compressed a little. It adds smoothness. Removing the marcel adds strength.
This also means they require a different engagement technique. For
smoothness slip the clutch at a higher than normal rpm, say 1500 -2000 rpm
or more. This will eliminate the chatter, due to the speed. Then when the
clutch starts to "grab" release the pedal quickly, to avoid the chatter.
It's the stage where it starts to grab, and the two parts are almost the
same speed, that causes the chatter. Some very heavy duty race clutches
exaggerate this to the point where they operate almost like a light switch,
they are either all on, or all off. They have no slip at all. (The slipping
tires adds any necessary smoothness). Just be careful with slipping a SHO
clutch too much or you will burn it up due to the heat.
Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Mazurek" <(email redacted)>
To: "Leigh Smith" <(email redacted)>
Cc: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...


> Hi Lee,
>
> I don't remember seeing any of the motor mounts being torn or
> broken. But, since they are rubber they may "losen up" without
> actually tearing. I'm trying to decide if changing out the motor
> mounts would allievate my problem to a large extent.
>
> It's an easier place to start but still $300 or so in parts.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed
>
> Leigh Smith wrote:
>
> >Ed;
> >If you suspect a torn motor mount, I would confirm that and replace that
> >part first. It is much easier and less labor intensive and can be done
with
> >motor and subframe in the car. Basically just try to lift the engine,
with a
> >floor jack or similar, and watch carefully for lift and separation at the
> >mount. And Yes; a torn mount willl give you some strange clutch chatter,
or
> >exaggerate any chatter that may be present. That may or may not be your
> >whole problem, but it is a much easier place to start.
> >Lee
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Edward Mazurek" <(email redacted)>
> >To: <(email redacted)>
> >Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 4:54 PM
> >Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Hi Frank,
> >>
> >>Yes, I did replace the Clutch Fork shaft bushings. Apparently, this disc
> >>is more high performance
> >>than smooth.
> >>
> >>Joshua, from SHONut, agreed to swap out the disc for a stock one. That's
> >>a nice offer but the time
> >>involved to swap it out! He mentioned that the website says: "The
> >>Fibertuff material is still quite streetable, however. "
> >>I guess that was supposed to tell me that it won't be as smooth as the
> >>stock disc. I guess I need to learn
> >>to read between the lines better.
> >>
> >>I guess my question is, should I try and replace the motor mounts? Would
> >>that help? They are pretty
> >>expensive (around $300 for both). SHONut sells reinforced front and back
> >>ones. Apparently the
> >>MTX shock type mount is stock though - no beefier one there.
> >>
> >>If I attempt to replace the motor mounts do I have to drop the entire
> >>subframe again?
> >>
> >>Thanks!
> >>
> >>Ed
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>Shotimes mailing list
> >>(email redacted)
> >>team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> (email redacted)
> team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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