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Wheel Bearings and Engine Temp

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Mail From: (email redacted) (Dave Desilets - Sun BOS Hardware)



On Fri Oct 21 17:55:44 GMT 1994 Matt Silveira wrote:

>I am wondering about the engine temp associated with pinging:

Here is an old answer to a new problem.

I used to run into this alot when the various octane ratings
at the pump went up and down quicker than the price, 20 yrs ago.
You never knew what you had in the tank.
I used to "Power Tune" to the octane. By that I mean, forget
what the book said, advance the timing untill she pings slightly
when being crowded up a hill when hot.
Hot was the key word then and is now. If I advanced the timing when
cold as outlined above, then after 15-20 miles she would
Ping terribly. I would have to stop and retart the timing slightly,
1-2 degrees and all would be fine.
This sounds like your problem, because when the my advance was up and the
engine cold, there was a noticable feeling of more output. When
it warmed up, the power output seemed noticably down, and the
accompaning pinging would be right back.
I would suggest that you retard your timing by 1-2 degrees and
see if the problem goes away. Go by the book on this adjustment
as the computer compensates unless taken out of the loop, and you
will see no difference at all.

As far as your wheel bearings go, my son had a 1986 Ford Ranger 4X4
that he bought used. The person that owned it, used to do a lot of
off roading over the river and through the woods. Needless to say
the truck was beat bad. This was my first adventure into a Ford 4X4.
I did the front brakes over, cleaned and repacked the wheel bearings
and set them basically the same way you did. Those damn things
losened up within a week to the point that wheels would shimmy.
I reset them 3 times that way, no improvement. Bought a repair
manual, and set them to the book spec, and Viola, they stayed
tight. I later replaced the rotors and bearings and everything
else on the front end, reset the bearings by the book, and they
stayed tight for 25K miles, he sold the truck.
The setting required a FT Pound Torque wrench and an inch pound
torque wrench to do it right, and if they wern't set exactly to
spec, then they would loosen up. Set right, they would stay tight
untill normal wear would set in and loosen them. Confirmed this
with a Ford mechanic after the fact.




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