Fordnatics List Archive

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Mail From: (email redacted) (Matt Silveira x257)

Hello all,

I am repeating this message as I believe it did not get posted due to the fact that the e-mail server at my work gave up a few days ago.


1. Wheel Bearings:

I replaced the pads and resurfaced my rotors about 10k miles ago. (Now the truck has 33k miles.) I loaned out my dial-guage, so, I used the "shade tree" method.

Shade tree method (I use.)
a. Pack the bearings with a *very high quality, high temp grease* after a thorough cleaning (never using compressed air.)

b. Clean the races and give a light, even coating of same grease.

c. Install bearings in rotor, replace seal with high quality seal (not the Kr@gen special.)

d. Install spindle nut and tighten with a short handled wrench until tight. Check for rotor drag.

e. Back-off nut until *just snug,* to the point of no drag, and not too loose.

f. Insert nut keeper and new cotter pin.

g. Tap on dust cap with wood block to ensure that it is not dented.

And now for the most critical "back yard" test:

To check for proper bearing clearances:

Install wheel, tourqued properly.

Grab the wheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position. Check the wheel for lateral play to ensure that the bearing tolerances aren't too loose. IF so, repeat procedures "e" to end.

Now, this little procedure worked just fine on 10 or so cars I've owned (and I thought, too, for the Ranger.) However, when I inspected the wheel bearings with the "12 and 6 o'clock" tests last oil change (30k miles) I found a that there was lateral movement (just a *teeny tiny* amount.) Now, without a dial-guage I am out of luck and I need some advice:

1. Am I trashing the bearings.
2. Should I buy a new dial-guage and do it the right way (something I don't think is necessary.)
3. Has anyone had this experience and is it "normal?"



*************

Second issue:

In the past I wrote up that my 4.0L Ranger 99X engine pings like crazy when the temperature is above 80F and the engine temp is 195+F.

Now that the weather has gotten a bit cooler (North of Sacramento, CA) I have found that the engine temp (with heater on) stays a little better in the mornings (168+F). But the GOOD news is that the engine doesn't PING! Even at WOT the engine hums and it's like it has some *serious* power.

Obviously, I would like to emulate this performance when the temp is warmer (i.e. in the afternoon, in the Spring and Summer, etc.)

Things I am considering:

1. A 160F thermostat.
2. Modifying the coolant (I've seen some threads lately that seem interesting.)

Things I have done:

Installed two small 9" cooling fans.
"Opened-up" the air box.
Insulated the "cross-over" plastic pipe from the airbox to the intake with aluminum insulation tape and wrap.
Installed an oil-cooler to reduce overall engine temp.


To this point, none of the fixes I have done have amounted to much.


HELP!


:-(

Matt Silveira
System Engineer
OSI

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: chucko (Chuck Fry)

I always understood the wheel bearing tightening procedure to be:
- tighten down (e.g. 25 ft-lbs or so) while rotating the rotor;
- back the nut off 1/4 turn or so;
- tighten "finger tight" (around 1 ft-lb)

I don't know if this will solve your problem. A small amount of play is
normal and unavoidable.

As to the cooling problem, don't go lower than 180 degrees on the
thermostat if the engine is computer-controlled (any of the EEC series).
The computer will not get out of the warmup mode, and your gas mileage
will suffer as a result.

Your oil cooler hookup should have some sort of thermostatic valve to
make sure the oil temp gets up to at least 180 degrees. Ideally oil
temps should be at least 200 degrees fully warmed up. Lower temps
increase friction and wear, and don't allow condensation to boil off.

Are your electric fans "pushers" (in front of the radiator) or "pullers"
(behind it)? Put them behind the radiator if practical, as putting them
in front blocks airflow at speed.

I don't know what else to suggest.
-- Chuck