Fordnatics List Archive
Poor Idle/Stall when coming to stop (when hot).
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mailbot
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Topic Creator (OP)
Dec 19, 1994 04:57 PM
Joined 15 years ago
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Mail From: (email redacted) (Paul Donehue)
I recently purchased a 77 F150 truck and have a couple of problems I
would like to inquire about.
Perhaps you might have some suggestions. Please reply directly as I am
in the process of being added to the alias.
77 F150 4X4 351W 2BBl
When the engine is cold, it seems to run and idle ok. When it warms up,
it stalls when coming to a stop, and idles poorly. I am not
sure if it is also a problem with the transmission not wanting to
disengage or just the engine idle set too high to make it not stall??
Perhaps a vacuum modulator problem?? It also seems to loose power
and run sluggish when hot.
Also, I need to get a smog done and my smog pump and diverter valve are
shot. I would like any suggestions to the following:
o I am looking for a reference to a reasonable shop that does smogs
(one that knows how to tweak the mixture, .. to get it to pass).
o Does anybody know if the diverter valve is checked during the tests,
and if it will affect the emissions test or cause problems if it is stuck
in the non-dump mode (i.e. air into manifold always). I sure hate to
pay the ~45$ for a new valve :-(.
o I am considering replacement of the 2bbl with a 4bbl. Are there
smog legal "replacement" 4bbls that I can use that the smog shop
will not give me problems with?
My steering box also has alot of play on the output (sector) shaft. I looked
at the blown-apart diagram and there doesn't appear to be a output shaft bearing
(only seals). APC stocks a rebuild kit, does this excessive play mean
the unit is not rebuildable? APC can order a rebuilt unit (edelman) but
it will cost 320$. Does anybody had any experiences with their rebuilds?
I suspect that any junk yard units I find will also have alot of miles/play
and perhaps the rebuilt unit is the way to go (Ouch!). Any suggestions?
I am also looking for some replacement tires/rims, anybody got some they
want to sell.
Please reply directly as I am in the process of being added to the alias and
may not recieve the replies.
Thanks,
Paul Donehue
MS SUN02-302
Sun Microsystems Computer Corp.
2550 Garcia Ave.
Mt View Ca, 94043
Phone: 408 774-8531
Email: (email redacted)
Mail From: (email redacted) (Paul Donehue)
I recently purchased a 77 F150 truck and have a couple of problems I
would like to inquire about.
Perhaps you might have some suggestions. Please reply directly as I am
in the process of being added to the alias.
77 F150 4X4 351W 2BBl
When the engine is cold, it seems to run and idle ok. When it warms up,
it stalls when coming to a stop, and idles poorly. I am not
sure if it is also a problem with the transmission not wanting to
disengage or just the engine idle set too high to make it not stall??
Perhaps a vacuum modulator problem?? It also seems to loose power
and run sluggish when hot.
Also, I need to get a smog done and my smog pump and diverter valve are
shot. I would like any suggestions to the following:
o I am looking for a reference to a reasonable shop that does smogs
(one that knows how to tweak the mixture, .. to get it to pass).
o Does anybody know if the diverter valve is checked during the tests,
and if it will affect the emissions test or cause problems if it is stuck
in the non-dump mode (i.e. air into manifold always). I sure hate to
pay the ~45$ for a new valve :-(.
o I am considering replacement of the 2bbl with a 4bbl. Are there
smog legal "replacement" 4bbls that I can use that the smog shop
will not give me problems with?
My steering box also has alot of play on the output (sector) shaft. I looked
at the blown-apart diagram and there doesn't appear to be a output shaft bearing
(only seals). APC stocks a rebuild kit, does this excessive play mean
the unit is not rebuildable? APC can order a rebuilt unit (edelman) but
it will cost 320$. Does anybody had any experiences with their rebuilds?
I suspect that any junk yard units I find will also have alot of miles/play
and perhaps the rebuilt unit is the way to go (Ouch!). Any suggestions?
I am also looking for some replacement tires/rims, anybody got some they
want to sell.
Please reply directly as I am in the process of being added to the alias and
may not recieve the replies.
Thanks,
Paul Donehue
MS SUN02-302
Sun Microsystems Computer Corp.
2550 Garcia Ave.
Mt View Ca, 94043
Phone: 408 774-8531
Email: (email redacted)
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mailbot
Mail List Archive Bot
., Online, USA
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Topic Creator (OP)
Dec 19, 1994 08:26 PM
Joined 15 years ago
59,279 Posts
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Jay Fletcher)
PJD writes:
77 F150 4X4 351W 2BBl
When the engine is cold, it seems to run and idle ok. When it warms up,
it stalls when coming to a stop, and idles poorly. I am not
sure if it is also a problem with the transmission not wanting to
disengage or just the engine idle set too high to make it not stall??
I assume it has an automatic. You may want to put it in neutral as you
come to a stop to see if it is transmission related.
Also, I need to get a smog done and my smog pump and diverter valve are
shot. I would like any suggestions to the following:
Perhaps the diverter valve is the cause of the above mentioned stalling
problem. Doesn't the diverter usually dump to atmosphere at high vacuum
conditions like decel?
o I am considering replacement of the 2bbl with a 4bbl. Are there
smog legal "replacement" 4bbls that I can use that the smog shop
will not give me problems with?
The Edelbrock Performer 4BBl Manifold and 600 CFM carb are CARB legal when
installed on a vehicle for which there was originally a 4BBl option in CA.
My steering box also has alot of play on the output (sector) shaft. I looked
at the blown-apart diagram and there doesn't appear to be a output shaft bearing
This is true, and it is the weak spot on these boxes. The output shaft
rides right on the housing and the clearances open up pretty quick.
Reputable rebuilders install bushings in the output housing. There is
a rebuilder in SJ called Straight Line Steering which does a rebuild with
bushings for $240. Check 'em out.
Jay
Mail From: (email redacted) (Jay Fletcher)
PJD writes:
77 F150 4X4 351W 2BBl
When the engine is cold, it seems to run and idle ok. When it warms up,
it stalls when coming to a stop, and idles poorly. I am not
sure if it is also a problem with the transmission not wanting to
disengage or just the engine idle set too high to make it not stall??
I assume it has an automatic. You may want to put it in neutral as you
come to a stop to see if it is transmission related.
Also, I need to get a smog done and my smog pump and diverter valve are
shot. I would like any suggestions to the following:
Perhaps the diverter valve is the cause of the above mentioned stalling
problem. Doesn't the diverter usually dump to atmosphere at high vacuum
conditions like decel?
o I am considering replacement of the 2bbl with a 4bbl. Are there
smog legal "replacement" 4bbls that I can use that the smog shop
will not give me problems with?
The Edelbrock Performer 4BBl Manifold and 600 CFM carb are CARB legal when
installed on a vehicle for which there was originally a 4BBl option in CA.
My steering box also has alot of play on the output (sector) shaft. I looked
at the blown-apart diagram and there doesn't appear to be a output shaft bearing
This is true, and it is the weak spot on these boxes. The output shaft
rides right on the housing and the clearances open up pretty quick.
Reputable rebuilders install bushings in the output housing. There is
a rebuilder in SJ called Straight Line Steering which does a rebuild with
bushings for $240. Check 'em out.
Jay
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