Fordnatics List Archive

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Mail From: (email redacted) (K Porter)

I just joined this list and did not get the tech on the cleveland stroker
motor. Can someone please send me archive on this setup? I have a
Cleveland motor I was going to rebuild but I would be willing to have the
crank turned for my stroker 302.
BTW will the stock "modified" engine cranks also work if turned down?
Thanks,
k.p.
__________________________________________________________________________
(email redacted) | I like you and I like your car. But you
|think everyone who worked on your car is
|now a jerk. I don't want to be a jerk.
|-Howdy Ledbetter
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Mail From: (email redacted) (Dave Williams)


-> I just joined this list and did not get the tech on the cleveland
-> stroker motor. Can someone please send me archive on this setup?

[apologies to anyone who's seen this too many times, and for those of
you who missed it first time around, here's your chance. <grin>]

Take one 351C crank, chuck in a lathe, turn OD of counterweights down to
5.9", turn rear seal diameter down to 302 size. There's some hand work
required on the counterweight ends for piston skirt clearance. The oil
slinger flange in back may have to be modified depending on whether you
have a 302 or 5.0 block.

Have crank cut down from 2.75/2.311 rods and mains to 2.25/2.045 rods
and mains. This is a wad of metal and crank shops will charge you a
chunk, as it eats up their expensive grinding wheels. Crank wheels are
about 3 feet in diameter...

Take two sets (8) Pinto 2.3 rods. The pin ends need to be opened up to
.927 Chevy size. The bearing ends need to be narrowed to fit the V8
journal size. This is a primo chance to properly set the rod side
clearance, ordinarily there's nothing you can do about it. I recommend
having the rods sized for *pressed* pins.

One set of eight Keith Black 350 Chevy pistons, intended for 6" rods.
These have the right pin height to match up with the Pinto rods and
Cleveland stroke. They have a large valve relief in the deck - I don't
know yet how they'll clear Ford valves. I don't expect any trouble, but
it's simple to fix if needed.

The entire reciprocating assembly must be balanced. It's a simple
no-heavy-metal balance, no problem.

Anyone who's paid sharp attention will notice we're cutting almost a
quarter inch of metal off the rod journals, allowing strokes from 3.25
to 3.75, with displacements from 330-ish to 380-ish (if you were
seriously crazy). Yes, you could offset grind a Cleveland crank down to
3.25 and build a 331. No, it's not a workable deal - the shops I've
talked to want lots more money (on the order of 3x) to offset grind a
crank, than just to whittle it down. By the time you add in reducing
the OD, fixing the rear seal, etc, you're right at the same price as the
forged SVO crank. You'd be crazy to run a carved Cleveland crank if the
SVO is in the same price range.


-> BTW will the stock "modified" engine cranks also work if turned down?

You *could*, but you'd be cutting a 3.0 inch main down to 2.25. The oil
holes might walk clear off the journal, and the crank shop would charge
you more - remember, any old *junk* Cleveland crank will do - you're
cutting it down to *standard* 302 and Pinto bearing size, not undersize.