Fordnatics List Archive

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Mail From: (email redacted) (Sixto Bernal)

i am torn between fully ported/polished 302/351 heads with 1.94/1.60
valves and new Dart Windsor heads. my cost to do either is just
about the same.

my goal is low end torque/fun. on the one hand new Windsor's have big
valves, large port volumes and excellent breathing. but, i believe
their better breathing doesn't really help, and may indeed hurt,
my bottom end. *because* they have larger ports their velocity relative
to the stock heads must be lower. and i want to keep my velocity
high to keep the cylinders filled at the low revs.

on the other hand, will my 6.0L, 366 cu, need the bigger ports just to
breathe adequately ?


HELP ! remember, this 6.0L will go into a 3600#, AT, daily driver...

"for evil to triumph,
sixto good men need only do nothing."
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Fontana Peter" <(email redacted)>

> i am torn between fully ported/polished 302/351 heads with 1.94/1.60
> valves and new Dart Windsor heads. my cost to do either is just
> about the same.

> my goal is low end torque/fun. on the one hand new Windsor's have big
> valves, large port volumes and excellent breathing. but, i believe
> their better breathing doesn't really help, and may indeed hurt,
> my bottom end. *because* they have larger ports their velocity relative
> to the stock heads must be lower. and i want to keep my velocity
> high to keep the cylinders filled at the low revs.

> on the other hand, will my 6.0L, 366 cu, need the bigger ports just to
> breathe adequately ?

Why just those 2 choices? If you like aluminum, the Edelbrock would seem to
be a good value, provide enough breathing for a 366, and not trade away all
your torque. If you like iron, maybe the GT-40 would do the same. I've seen
big ports and valves kill all the street "fun" out of a few motors...
What's you inclination on cam and induction? It seems your cam upper limits
would be about 220 degrees of duration at .050, and maybe .500" lift.

With the aftermarket as full as it is, I don't see how anyone can justify any
real money for massaging stock Windsor heads (unless you're legislated to
them...).


BTW - I love your build-up story. I takes real courage (even gall) to fly in
the face of "common sense" and extract yourself from the faceless huddled
masses (yes, cowering too). As Worf once said, "I admire gall." Unless of
course you're rich, and this is all pocket change for you... (which
obvoiusly isn't the case: grinder in hand, crouched over the vise...)

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Dan Malek <(email redacted)>


> Date: Thu, 12 Jan 1995 11:16:36 +0800
> From: Sixto Bernal <(email redacted)>
>
>i am torn between fully ported/polished 302/351 heads with 1.94/1.60
> valves and new Dart Windsor heads. my cost to do either is just
> about the same.

You can't beat the Dart II heads for best bang for the buck. Take
them out of the box and bolt them on. OK, clean up the casting a
little if you want.

We race professionally with these, and there are a couple of
mostly stock Mustangs in the area running 11's in the 1/4 using
these heads. They work especially well on a 351. Even though I
am an aluminum head fan, I have to recommend these heads.


-- Dan

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Dave Williams)


-> i am torn between fully ported/polished 302/351 heads with 1.94/1.60
-> valves and new Dart Windsor heads. my cost to do either is just about
-> the same.

The Darts shouldn't hurt bottom end any. Whether they will give you
good value for the money depends on what you're running for cam,
compression, and induction. I don't think you've ever posted all the
details on your car, like axle ratio, tire height, etc., plus I don't
know how hard you drive.

If you can afford the Darts, buy them. However, you need to decide on
the heads *before* you assemble the motor for the last time, since
you'll probably need to clearance the pistons for the valves, depending
on what cam you're running.

BTW, having hung around and watched a number of pro shops at work, I
can tell you the kind of service you're getting from your shop guy is
what most places claim they do, but few actually take the time, even for
their most expensive engines.

I'm concerned about the .004 pin height variation. I'd call KB and see
about swapping the pistons for correct ones. Same for any variations
from their indicated skirt diameters. Don't waste your time honing each
hole for a specific piston, or mix-n-matching rods and pistons. If the
damned things aren't right, send them BACK! You're not in such a rush
you can't wait another week or two to get correct parts.

What kind of cam are you intending to run?