Fordnatics List Archive

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Mail From: (email redacted) (Jonathan Derrenbacker)

Hi,
I am wondering what is necessary to put 351 heads on a 289? I have a
66 mustang fastback with a 4-speed, and a 3:50 rear. I want to drive it
everyday, and it needs to be reliable. I want to get around 271 horses at
around 5500 rpm. I would like to do this for under a thousand dollars.
Any sugestions are greatly appreciated.
thanks, jon

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Mail From: Roberto Arturo Schafer <(email redacted)>

On Mon, 3 Apr 1995, Jonathan Derrenbacker wrote:

> Hi,
> I am wondering what is necessary to put 351 heads on a 289? I have a

If you are talking Windsor heads, not much, they bolt on. But....

351W's use 1/2" head bolts whereas 302's and down use 7/16" head bolts.
You can tap your block for the larger bolts, or.... I have heard that
special 7/16" head bolts are made for this purpose. They have a larger
shoulder to make up for the larger hole in the 351W's head.

Rob

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Mail From: (email redacted) (Jonathan Derrenbacker)

Hi,
I am wondering what is necessary to get a 289 to be safe at 6000rpm?
Any sugestions are greatly appreciated.
thanks, jon

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Mail From: (email redacted)

>>I am wondering what is necessary to get a 289 to be safe at 6000rpm? Any
sugestions are greatly appreciated.<<

Not much, just make sure the valve springs are up to the job. The bottom end
will deal with that rpm with no problems. I used to have a 302 (same motor
as the 289 - 3.00 vs 2.87 stroke) with a very mild bottom end (2 bolt mains,
shot peened rods, and ARP rod bolts with forged pistons) that I regularly
took to 7500-8000 rpm. I only had to replace one rod bearing in 5 years.

The 289 will need a decent cam to have any reason to take it to 6000 rpm
though, as the heads are a little anemic.

-Tom

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Mail From: (email redacted)

> I am wondering what is necessary to get a 289 to be safe at 6000rpm?
> Any sugestions are greatly appreciated.

Back in the '70's when I built up a 289 (non-Hipo version) I was told
that it's a good idea to "pin" the pressed in rocker studs. I believe
another possibility was to tap the head an put in screw-in studs. I'm not
sure if this applies any more since there are so many aftermarket heads, and
it may not be worth playing with the old cast stuff.

FWIW, I left the pressed in stud alone, and didn't have a problem. But
then again, I never ran it real hard either. Probably good insurance though.

-Bob

********************************************************************************
* Bob Plencner (603) 772-1500 x3889 (email redacted) *
* Hewlett-Packard (SMDO) Exeter, NH 03833 NARRC - FV - #15 *
********************************************************************************

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Mail From: (email redacted) (Jonathan Derrenbacker)

Hi,
Can anyone give me an idea of how much a mechanic would charge to
put ARP rod bolts in my 289? Can it be done with the motor in the car? Also,
is it possable that the engine might not run as good after the work is done?

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Mail From: chucko (Chuck Fry)

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 1995 19:01:32 +0600
From: (email redacted) (Jonathan Derrenbacker)

Hi,
Can anyone give me an idea of how much a mechanic would charge to
put ARP rod bolts in my 289? Can it be done with the motor in the car? Also,
is it possable that the engine might not run as good after the work is done?

Swapping rod bolts is not minor surgery, it is about as critical as
automotive work gets. The shape of the rod's "big end" bore changes
with minor differences in bolt preload (related to bolt torque).
Changes on the order of .0001" (that's right, one ten-thousandth of an
inch) in the shape of that hole can mean the difference between a
working motor and a pile of expensive junk. Most reputable machine
shops insist on resizing the rod as part of the job, which in turn means
taking the rods and pistons apart. As a result it is usually only done
at rebuild time, when the engine is not only out of the car but in
pieces.

So, if you want to go to a better grade of rod bolts, wait til your next
rebuild, or the next time you have a motor built from scratch.
-- Chuck

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Mail From: (email redacted) (Jonathan Derrenbacker)

Hi,
I would like to get sugestions on what to do with my stock 289. I have
a 66 fastback with an 8.8 rear that has 3:50 gears in it. A four speed
toploader. I have a 600 cfm ford 4-barrel and manifold. Its dual exhaust
that only has glasspacks on it. I want it to be reliable and last a long
time, yet I want around 271 horse power from it. I want the peak power at
around 5500 rom. I have around 600 dollars and am wondering what should I do
first? I can put 351 heads on it, I don't know how huch that would cost or I
can get "new" heads from PAW, for 500 dollars that have bigger valves, screw
it studs, and guide plates. Or should I get a cam first? Or I could get a
set of tri-y headers. What do you think? I'd like to know of any and all of
the parts you have tryed on 289's with success or failure.
thanks, jon
(email redacted) (Jonathan Derrenbacker)

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Mail From: "Fontana Peter" <(email redacted)>

> I have around 600 dollars and am wondering what should I do
> first? I can put 351 heads on it, I don't know how huch that would cost or I

> can get "new" heads from PAW, for 500 dollars that have bigger valves, screw

> it studs, and guide plates. Or should I get a cam first? Or I could get a
> set of tri-y headers.

Good post - an HP target with a budget. OK - I'd say do the headers now and
an electronic ignition conversion - it makes the engine easier to work on, a
little smoother running (usually), and you'll need it to make your best power
up top. Remember the HiPo 289 had dual points.

Before you buy anything else, pick your heads and a complementary cam. You
can get 351W heads which will help you a little and let you keep your stock
intake, or you can do a 351C head conversion - better flow, but a new intake
($200+) is required, and you'll probably have to get different headers, too.
You can probably reach your goal with the W heads, though.

If you know a good machine shop in your area, price heads from the junkyard,
and then get their price on a rebuild. If you don't know of a good shop (or
if they seem too expensive), call PAW for a price on the heads you want.
Either way, make sure you get screw-in studs, new valves and springs (and
rocker arms too if you changed to a solid lifter cam).

Once you've got enough $ for the heads, gaskets, cam, lifters, chain/gears,
and whatever else you'll need, go ahead and do it in one shot. Just doing
heads with your stock cam might hurt your current performance - not help. You
could do the cam before the heads, but you really should have screw in studs,
etc - so wait and do this stuff once.

Basically, I'm trying to help you avoid doing changes that won't help
performance, doing things twice, or doing things half assed and breaking the
motor. It looks like we're going over $500 - you could keep your current
heads, but you might not make 271.

Good luck and keep us posted on how you do.