Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Eric E. Neumeister (email redacted)

Alright, I'm making progress. I installed my new shelby
style steering wheel w/horn assembly (it's actually a
lacarra (sp) steering wheel, hub, and horn). The horns
sometimes just click a little, the next time the button is
pressed one will sound, the next both will sound, sometimes
they just squeek. Does this sound like 35yr old horns being
"tired" or should I be looking for an electrical problem
somewhere else?

While we're at it, I installed a fiberglass cowl hood. I
had my wife pick it up from Mustangs Unlimited a couple
weeks ago when she was in Atlanta. I gave her a list of
parts and #'s to pick up, but at the counter they told her
that the low tension springs for the hinges would cause the
hood to crack after a while and that I should use a prop
rod. Doing what I would expect she got the prop rod and
nixed the hinges. Now I've got this prop rod with no
attaching hardware. Does anyone know the best place and
method for attaching this rod and attaching something to the
fiberglass to hold the rod in place while it's proping the
hood?

Thanks for any experience in these areas.

Eric
'66 coupe restomod showing signs of life..
Cowl hood installed
Third member in the mail returning from gear change
Next Up:
Putting head, tail, and signal lights on.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Eric E. Neumeister (email redacted)


Alright, I'm making progress. I installed my new shelby
style steering wheel w/horn assembly (it's actually a
lacarra (sp) steering wheel, hub, and horn). The horns
sometimes just click a little, the next time the button is
pressed one will sound, the next both will sound, sometimes
they just squeek. Does this sound like 35yr old horns
being
"tired" or should I be looking for an electrical problem
somewhere else?

While we're at it, I installed a fiberglass cowl hood. I
had my wife pick it up from Mustangs Unlimited a couple
weeks ago when she was in Atlanta. I gave her a list of
parts and #'s to pick up, but at the counter they told her
that the low tension springs for the hinges would cause the
hood to crack after a while and that I should use a prop
rod. Doing what I would expect she got the prop rod and
nixed the hinges. Now I've got this prop rod with no
attaching hardware. Does anyone know the best place and
method for attaching this rod and attaching something to
the
fiberglass to hold the rod in place while it's proping the
hood?

Thanks for any experience in these areas.

Eric
'66 coupe restomod showing signs of life..
Cowl hood installed
Third member in the mail returning from gear change
Next Up:
Putting head, tail, and signal lights on.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Cliff Koch (email redacted)

(email redacted) wrote:

> Alright, I'm making progress. I installed my new shelby
> style steering wheel w/horn assembly (it's actually a
> lacarra (sp) steering wheel, hub, and horn). The horns
> sometimes just click a little, the next time the button is
> pressed one will sound, the next both will sound, sometimes
> they just squeek. Does this sound like 35yr old horns
> being
> "tired" or should I be looking for an electrical problem
> somewhere else?

I'd suspect poor connections first. Clean the connections around the horns
and horn relay and see if it helps. If not, it's probably the horns.

> While we're at it, I installed a fiberglass cowl hood. I
> had my wife pick it up from Mustangs Unlimited a couple
> weeks ago when she was in Atlanta. I gave her a list of
> parts and #'s to pick up, but at the counter they told her
> that the low tension springs for the hinges would cause the
> hood to crack after a while and that I should use a prop
> rod. Doing what I would expect she got the prop rod and
> nixed the hinges. Now I've got this prop rod with no
> attaching hardware. Does anyone know the best place and
> method for attaching this rod and attaching something to
> the
> fiberglass to hold the rod in place while it's proping the
> hood?

Hmm, ditto question from me. I hadn't heard of a cracking problem, but I
could see how it could happen. I bought a car with a FG hood that had some
mis-sized wimpy springs installed that aren't powerfull enough to hold the
hood up. I was going to look for replacement springs, but maybe I should be
looking for a prop rod instead?

Same problem with the trunk. It has a fiberglass Shelby trunk lid installed
and no springs. Should I be looking for a prop rod for this as well?

Thanks,
Cliff

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Eric E. Neumeister (email redacted)

I wouldn't think there would be a problem with the trunk
because it is so short, so there is less leverage trying to
close the trunk lid vs. the hood which has a good 3-4 ft
(est) sticking up above and forward past the end of the
hinge.

Eric
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Koch" <(email redacted)>
To: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 3:37 PM
Subject: [CM] RE: Whimpy horn....and where does this prop
rod go...?


> (email redacted) wrote:
>
> > Alright, I'm making progress. I installed my new
shelby
> > style steering wheel w/horn assembly (it's actually a
> > lacarra (sp) steering wheel, hub, and horn). The horns
> > sometimes just click a little, the next time the button
is
> > pressed one will sound, the next both will sound,
sometimes
> > they just squeek. Does this sound like 35yr old horns
> > being
> > "tired" or should I be looking for an electrical
problem
> > somewhere else?
>
> I'd suspect poor connections first. Clean the
connections around the horns
> and horn relay and see if it helps. If not, it's probably
the horns.
>
> > While we're at it, I installed a fiberglass cowl hood.
I
> > had my wife pick it up from Mustangs Unlimited a couple
> > weeks ago when she was in Atlanta. I gave her a list
of
> > parts and #'s to pick up, but at the counter they told
her
> > that the low tension springs for the hinges would cause
the
> > hood to crack after a while and that I should use a
prop
> > rod. Doing what I would expect she got the prop rod
and
> > nixed the hinges. Now I've got this prop rod with no
> > attaching hardware. Does anyone know the best place
and
> > method for attaching this rod and attaching something
to
> > the
> > fiberglass to hold the rod in place while it's proping
the
> > hood?
>
> Hmm, ditto question from me. I hadn't heard of a
cracking problem, but I
> could see how it could happen. I bought a car with a FG
hood that had some
> mis-sized wimpy springs installed that aren't powerfull
enough to hold the
> hood up. I was going to look for replacement springs, but
maybe I should be
> looking for a prop rod instead?
>
> Same problem with the trunk. It has a fiberglass Shelby
trunk lid installed
> and no springs. Should I be looking for a prop rod for
this as well?
>
> Thanks,
> Cliff
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
>
mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: speegle (email redacted)


"Eric E. Neumeister" wrote:

> Alright, I'm making progress. I installed my new shelby
> style steering wheel w/horn assembly (it's actually a
> lacarra (sp) steering wheel, hub, and horn). The horns
> sometimes just click a little, the next time the button is
> pressed one will sound, the next both will sound, sometimes
> they just squeek. Does this sound like 35yr old horns
> being "tired" or should I be looking for an electrical problem
> somewhere else?

Not sure how you would fix it but these things are designed similar to
the older reverb or vibrato units. It includes a series of springs or
plate to produce the changing tone.

Jeff Speegle
MCA SGCJ

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Chris Stephens (email redacted)

I found a lot of dirt in mine. They sound much better cleaned up a little.


>
>
> "Eric E. Neumeister" wrote:
>
> > Alright, I'm making progress. I installed my new shelby
> > style steering wheel w/horn assembly (it's actually a
> > lacarra (sp) steering wheel, hub, and horn). The horns
> > sometimes just click a little, the next time the button is
> > pressed one will sound, the next both will sound, sometimes
> > they just squeek. Does this sound like 35yr old horns
> > being "tired" or should I be looking for an electrical problem
> > somewhere else?
>
> Not sure how you would fix it but these things are designed similar to
> the older reverb or vibrato units. It includes a series of springs or
> plate to produce the changing tone.
>
> Jeff Speegle
> MCA SGCJ
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)

PS: Once and orignal horn is shot...It's shot...There's no fixing it...Don't even attempt it...It's a waste of time.. They are sealed units...

Tony.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Keven Coates (email redacted)

Whoops, I didn't read back far enough. I didn't know you had a new steering
wheel!

Good luck!

Keven '68 stang

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: JESUS MIRAMONTES (email redacted)

On Wed, 28 March 2001, "Eric E. Neumeister" wrote:

Eric,

I read all of the postings. Good comments. Here's my 2 cents.

I have a 65 with the same wheel and my horns are wimpy. I have been planning to install a simple relay to get power to the horns. I know that the contacts in my steering wheel sometime act up and I don't get full voltage to the horns. I figure that if I use the power from the steering wheel to activate the relay and use the full 12 volts from the battery (with a circuit breaker or fuse of course) I will get nice loud horns. I have already jumpered my horns directly to the battery and they are functioning well.

I live in Michigan and it has been to cold to go out to the garage lately so I haven't completed this mod but I am planning on it soon.

Regards,

Jess

>
>
>
> Alright, I'm making progress. I installed my new shelby
> style steering wheel w/horn assembly (it's actually a
> lacarra (sp) steering wheel, hub, and horn). The horns
> sometimes just click a little, the next time the button is
> pressed one will sound, the next both will sound, sometimes
> they just squeek. Does this sound like 35yr old horns
> being
> "tired" or should I be looking for an electrical problem
> somewhere else?
>
> While we're at it, I installed a fiberglass cowl hood. I
> had my wife pick it up from Mustangs Unlimited a couple
> weeks ago when she was in Atlanta. I gave her a list of
> parts and #'s to pick up, but at the counter they told her
> that the low tension springs for the hinges would cause the
> hood to crack after a while and that I should use a prop
> rod. Doing what I would expect she got the prop rod and
> nixed the hinges. Now I've got this prop rod with no
> attaching hardware. Does anyone know the best place and
> method for attaching this rod and attaching something to
> the
> fiberglass to hold the rod in place while it's proping the
> hood?
>
> Thanks for any experience in these areas.
>
> Eric
> '66 coupe restomod showing signs of life..
> Cowl hood installed
> Third member in the mail returning from gear change
> Next Up:
> Putting head, tail, and signal lights on.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs


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