Classic Mustangs List Archive
welding order
Posted by mailbot
|
mailbot
Mail List Archive Bot
., Online, USA
|
Topic Creator (OP)
May 24, 1999 03:58 PM
Joined 15 years ago
59,279 Posts
|
This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)
Well, I have been reading the reso guides and I can not find out what order
to replace some metal. I am replacing my driver side inner rocker, floor
pan/extention to firewall, and torque box (front). The outer rocker and seat
platform and convertible reinforcements are in "no rust" shape and do not
need to be replaced. (There are holes where the previous owner welded a home
made pan to the floor/rocker panel so both must be replaced).
My question is this, Do I need to replace the floorpan and then come back and
replace the rocker panel or cut it all out and replace at same time? (The
Mustang shop I got the pieces from said that he couldn't tell me how to do it
but that I had to replace the pans first). Is there room to get the rocker
panel out/in/welded with the new floor pan in? Is the floor pan used for
spacing the rocker panel?
My resto guides show and tell but do not address this specificly nor show
pictures in progress (as several web pages I visited). I have a rolling
chassis I am working with (67 conv) and there is plenty of access to the car.
My intention is to leave it on the suspension to duplicate some tension on
the chassis and support the center of the car so it hopefully won't sag when
I cut the rocker panel out. I have put the doors back on to help with the
allignment prior to re-welding. Other tips are *always* welcome.
Mark Vincent
'67 convert project
------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm
Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)
Well, I have been reading the reso guides and I can not find out what order
to replace some metal. I am replacing my driver side inner rocker, floor
pan/extention to firewall, and torque box (front). The outer rocker and seat
platform and convertible reinforcements are in "no rust" shape and do not
need to be replaced. (There are holes where the previous owner welded a home
made pan to the floor/rocker panel so both must be replaced).
My question is this, Do I need to replace the floorpan and then come back and
replace the rocker panel or cut it all out and replace at same time? (The
Mustang shop I got the pieces from said that he couldn't tell me how to do it
but that I had to replace the pans first). Is there room to get the rocker
panel out/in/welded with the new floor pan in? Is the floor pan used for
spacing the rocker panel?
My resto guides show and tell but do not address this specificly nor show
pictures in progress (as several web pages I visited). I have a rolling
chassis I am working with (67 conv) and there is plenty of access to the car.
My intention is to leave it on the suspension to duplicate some tension on
the chassis and support the center of the car so it hopefully won't sag when
I cut the rocker panel out. I have put the doors back on to help with the
allignment prior to re-welding. Other tips are *always* welcome.
Mark Vincent
'67 convert project
------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm
|
mailbot
Mail List Archive Bot
., Online, USA
|
Topic Creator (OP)
May 24, 1999 05:12 PM
Joined 15 years ago
59,279 Posts
|
This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Watkins Jim LtCol CADRE/WGJ (email redacted)
Mark.
I'm half way through replacing the floors, torque boxes and inner
rails on my '66 convertible. The passenger side is already done.
Check out the article at
mgfx.com/mustang/articles/tips011.htm. Also the K.A.R. Group at
HTTP://WWW.KARMUSTANG.COM/ has a good series of photos on what's involved
with replacing them.
To answer your question, the order to replace things is inner rail,
torque box, floor pans. Make it easy on yourself - Do the job once so,
replace them all at the same time.
Not sure how you're going to get the inner rail and torque
box out and back in without damaging or cutting out (at least part of) the
floors for access. The portion of the toeboard (from the inner rail to the
subframe) will have to come out for access to weld the torque box. The
reinforcement brace at the rear of the door well and the convertible brace
will also have to be cut out to get the inner rail out and in.
To keep it square, I have sitting it on its wheels because it
stresses the body the same way it'll normally sit or drive. To me putting
it on jack stands would stress it differently (further away from the front
axle point) and thus a greater potential for the body to move and cause
alignment problems. I have three 2x10 boards under each wheel (raising it up
six inches over normal riding height yet keeping it functionally on the
ground) so I can get under to weld. I also have a sissors jack under the
crossover plate to keep the middle from sagging while the inner rail is out
of it. I had no door or top alignment problem when I got the passenger side
done so as far as I'm concerned, this method works.
Feel free to E-mail any questions you may have.
JIM
> -----Original Message-----
> From: (email redacted) [SMTP
email redacted)]
> Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 4:20 PM
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: [CM:17137] welding order
>
> Well, I have been reading the reso guides and I can not find out what
> order
> to replace some metal. I am replacing my driver side inner rocker, floor
> pan/extention to firewall, and torque box (front). The outer rocker and
> seat
> platform and convertible reinforcements are in "no rust" shape and do not
> need to be replaced. (There are holes where the previous owner welded a
> home
> made pan to the floor/rocker panel so both must be replaced).
>
> My question is this, Do I need to replace the floorpan and then come back
> and
> replace the rocker panel or cut it all out and replace at same time? (The
>
> Mustang shop I got the pieces from said that he couldn't tell me how to do
> it
> but that I had to replace the pans first). Is there room to get the
> rocker
> panel out/in/welded with the new floor pan in? Is the floor pan used for
spacing the rocker panel?
> My resto guides show and tell but do not address this specificly nor show
> pictures in progress (as several web pages I visited). I have a rolling
> chassis I am working with (67 conv) and there is plenty of access to the
> car.
> My intention is to leave it on the suspension to duplicate some tension
> on
> the chassis and support the center of the car so it hopefully won't sag
> when
> I cut the rocker panel out. I have put the doors back on to help with the
>
> allignment prior to re-welding. Other tips are *always* welcome.
>
>
> Mark Vincent
> '67 convert project
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm
------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm
Mail From: Watkins Jim LtCol CADRE/WGJ (email redacted)
Mark.
I'm half way through replacing the floors, torque boxes and inner
rails on my '66 convertible. The passenger side is already done.
Check out the article at
mgfx.com/mustang/articles/tips011.htm. Also the K.A.R. Group at
HTTP://WWW.KARMUSTANG.COM/ has a good series of photos on what's involved
with replacing them.
To answer your question, the order to replace things is inner rail,
torque box, floor pans. Make it easy on yourself - Do the job once so,
replace them all at the same time.
Not sure how you're going to get the inner rail and torque
box out and back in without damaging or cutting out (at least part of) the
floors for access. The portion of the toeboard (from the inner rail to the
subframe) will have to come out for access to weld the torque box. The
reinforcement brace at the rear of the door well and the convertible brace
will also have to be cut out to get the inner rail out and in.
To keep it square, I have sitting it on its wheels because it
stresses the body the same way it'll normally sit or drive. To me putting
it on jack stands would stress it differently (further away from the front
axle point) and thus a greater potential for the body to move and cause
alignment problems. I have three 2x10 boards under each wheel (raising it up
six inches over normal riding height yet keeping it functionally on the
ground) so I can get under to weld. I also have a sissors jack under the
crossover plate to keep the middle from sagging while the inner rail is out
of it. I had no door or top alignment problem when I got the passenger side
done so as far as I'm concerned, this method works.
Feel free to E-mail any questions you may have.
JIM
> -----Original Message-----
> From: (email redacted) [SMTP
email redacted)]> Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 4:20 PM
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: [CM:17137] welding order
>
> Well, I have been reading the reso guides and I can not find out what
> order
> to replace some metal. I am replacing my driver side inner rocker, floor
> pan/extention to firewall, and torque box (front). The outer rocker and
> seat
> platform and convertible reinforcements are in "no rust" shape and do not
> need to be replaced. (There are holes where the previous owner welded a
> home
> made pan to the floor/rocker panel so both must be replaced).
>
> My question is this, Do I need to replace the floorpan and then come back
> and
> replace the rocker panel or cut it all out and replace at same time? (The
>
> Mustang shop I got the pieces from said that he couldn't tell me how to do
> it
> but that I had to replace the pans first). Is there room to get the
> rocker
> panel out/in/welded with the new floor pan in? Is the floor pan used for
spacing the rocker panel?
> My resto guides show and tell but do not address this specificly nor show
> pictures in progress (as several web pages I visited). I have a rolling
> chassis I am working with (67 conv) and there is plenty of access to the
> car.
> My intention is to leave it on the suspension to duplicate some tension
> on
> the chassis and support the center of the car so it hopefully won't sag
> when
> I cut the rocker panel out. I have put the doors back on to help with the
>
> allignment prior to re-welding. Other tips are *always* welcome.
>
>
> Mark Vincent
> '67 convert project
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm
------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm
|
mailbot
Mail List Archive Bot
., Online, USA
|
Topic Creator (OP)
May 24, 1999 11:58 PM
Joined 15 years ago
59,279 Posts
|
This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: John Dettori (email redacted)
(email redacted) wrote:
>
> [...Looking to] find out what order to replace some metal. I am replacing
> my driver side inner rocker, floor pan/extention to firewall, and torque
> box (front). The outer rocker and seat platform and convertible reinforce-
> ments are in "no rust" shape and do not need to be replaced. (There are
> holes where the previous owner welded a home made pan to the floor/rocker
> panel so both must be replaced).
When doing my 67 convertbile (which needed full floors both sides, inner rock-
ers, firewall to floor, torque boxes, cowl, rear outer wheel houses, etc.), I
worked with a veteran Mustang restorer. His specialty was welding. I did
alot of watching and "goferring"; unfortunately I don't remember the order.
But you might want to check out a 3-part series that appear in May - July
issues of Mustang Monthly in 1986. Of course, they repeated the entire suite
in the 1986 Annual. They show exactly what to do in order to replace floors
and inner rockers on a 66 convertible.
Hope this helps!
--
================================================================================
John Dettori 86 SVO (2.3l IC Turbo)
Sr. Principal, Technology Solutions Corp. 70 Mach I (351C-4V)
800 759 2250 mailbox# 2447 67 GT Convert (289-4V)
(email redacted) <reserved for 67 GT500>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm
Mail From: John Dettori (email redacted)
(email redacted) wrote:
>
> [...Looking to] find out what order to replace some metal. I am replacing
> my driver side inner rocker, floor pan/extention to firewall, and torque
> box (front). The outer rocker and seat platform and convertible reinforce-
> ments are in "no rust" shape and do not need to be replaced. (There are
> holes where the previous owner welded a home made pan to the floor/rocker
> panel so both must be replaced).
When doing my 67 convertbile (which needed full floors both sides, inner rock-
ers, firewall to floor, torque boxes, cowl, rear outer wheel houses, etc.), I
worked with a veteran Mustang restorer. His specialty was welding. I did
alot of watching and "goferring"; unfortunately I don't remember the order.
But you might want to check out a 3-part series that appear in May - July
issues of Mustang Monthly in 1986. Of course, they repeated the entire suite
in the 1986 Annual. They show exactly what to do in order to replace floors
and inner rockers on a 66 convertible.
Hope this helps!
--
================================================================================
John Dettori 86 SVO (2.3l IC Turbo)
Sr. Principal, Technology Solutions Corp. 70 Mach I (351C-4V)
800 759 2250 mailbox# 2447 67 GT Convert (289-4V)
(email redacted) <reserved for 67 GT500>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm
Sorry, you can't reply to this topic. It has been closed.
Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or click Contact Support at the bottom of the page.



