Classic Mustangs List Archive
was '68 coupe, now AC/Freon
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May 5, 1998 02:20 PM
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Mail From: Collins, Jackie, MAJ (143TRANS) (email redacted)
Good luck trying to find a can of R-12. I thought that only certified AC
techs could buy the stuff now and that it's become obcenely expensive. I
saw a 20# cylinder for sale a short time ago for over $300. And none of the
reputable AC repair folks will just dump freon into a leaking system anyway.
The fines are way too stiff if you get caught.
There is a leak detector available which uses a red dye. You put it in the
system and it shows up at the leak. Some brands also glow under UV light.
And there's always the R-134 option/debate (is it a coincidence that DuPont
supported an R-12 ban at the same time they brought R-134 to market?)
Jack
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bradburn, Michael [SMTP
email redacted)]
> Sent: Tuesday, 05 May 1998 13:10
> To: Multiple recipients of list
> Subject: [CM:11092] RE: 11088] was '68 coupe, price?
>
>
>
>
> > My other question. They a/c blows hot air. Is there a way to test for
> a
> > bad seal verses just needing freon. I'd hate to put freon in and then
> > have
> > it all leak out right away as it is so costly now.
> >
> >
> [Bradburn, Michael] Yes, there is, but it takes time. You will
> need an A/C vacuum pump to do this. Take the vacuum pump and attach it to
> the A/C gauges and then attach the gauges to the low and high side of the
> A/C system. Open both valves and turn on the vacuum pump just like you
> were
> evacuating the system before adding freon. Allow the pump to pull as
> close
> to 30" of vacuum as possible and then close the valves and turn off the
> pump. Now, wait. If there is a leak in the system, you will loose
> vacuum.
> You can replace the o-rings and such and try over. Keep doing this until
> you finally find the leak (the vacuum will hold). Keep in mind, this
> really
> only works well if it is a seal leak. If you have a leaky component, you
> will not be able to tell which one unless it is a large leak and you can
> hear it leaking from the component. Also make sure that your 0-rings and
> seals on your gauges are in good shape before doing this, or you will end
> up
> driving yourself crazy. If it is loosing vacuum very fast, then it is a
> large leak and you should be able to hear it. If not, you can add 1 can
> of
> freon and use a sniffer to find the leak.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm
------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm
Mail From: Collins, Jackie, MAJ (143TRANS) (email redacted)
Good luck trying to find a can of R-12. I thought that only certified AC
techs could buy the stuff now and that it's become obcenely expensive. I
saw a 20# cylinder for sale a short time ago for over $300. And none of the
reputable AC repair folks will just dump freon into a leaking system anyway.
The fines are way too stiff if you get caught.
There is a leak detector available which uses a red dye. You put it in the
system and it shows up at the leak. Some brands also glow under UV light.
And there's always the R-134 option/debate (is it a coincidence that DuPont
supported an R-12 ban at the same time they brought R-134 to market?)
Jack
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bradburn, Michael [SMTP
email redacted)]> Sent: Tuesday, 05 May 1998 13:10
> To: Multiple recipients of list
> Subject: [CM:11092] RE: 11088] was '68 coupe, price?
>
>
>
>
> > My other question. They a/c blows hot air. Is there a way to test for
> a
> > bad seal verses just needing freon. I'd hate to put freon in and then
> > have
> > it all leak out right away as it is so costly now.
> >
> >
> [Bradburn, Michael] Yes, there is, but it takes time. You will
> need an A/C vacuum pump to do this. Take the vacuum pump and attach it to
> the A/C gauges and then attach the gauges to the low and high side of the
> A/C system. Open both valves and turn on the vacuum pump just like you
> were
> evacuating the system before adding freon. Allow the pump to pull as
> close
> to 30" of vacuum as possible and then close the valves and turn off the
> pump. Now, wait. If there is a leak in the system, you will loose
> vacuum.
> You can replace the o-rings and such and try over. Keep doing this until
> you finally find the leak (the vacuum will hold). Keep in mind, this
> really
> only works well if it is a seal leak. If you have a leaky component, you
> will not be able to tell which one unless it is a large leak and you can
> hear it leaking from the component. Also make sure that your 0-rings and
> seals on your gauges are in good shape before doing this, or you will end
> up
> driving yourself crazy. If it is loosing vacuum very fast, then it is a
> large leak and you should be able to hear it. If not, you can add 1 can
> of
> freon and use a sniffer to find the leak.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm
------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm
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