Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: Mark Pasch (email redacted)

Fellow Mustangers,

Does anyone have a good photo (or series) either on-line or that they
can attach via e-mail (jpg format perferred) which shows the underside
of a factory dual exhaust system for a 65/66 (non-GT) vehicle?

I am converting my '66 coupe 289 2-V single exhaust to factory dual
exhaust (Mustang Unlimited aluminized kit) and would appreciate any
shots which help with placement of hangers, etc. I have the factory
manual diagram and know about the rear brake line heat problem already
(I plan to use a heat shield sleeve from JEG'S). I've read already in
posts here (and elsewhere) about potential problems regarding getting
the downturns to clear the valence without the whole exhaust system
hanging too low (the tighter the tuck under the car the better, as far
as I'm concerned). One rarely sees a good shot of the underside of the
whole exhaust system on a show vehicle and it's not terribly convenient
for me to "use a car with factory dual exhaust as a template" (suggested
by one poster).

Incidentally, I don't plan to take on this fall project till the temps
here in Arizona drop a bit (107 today here in Tucson)!

Mark

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: James Wyanski (email redacted)

I can't steer you to any underside photos but I just did the same conversion
on my 65 hardtop - with the aluminized non-GT system from Mustangs
Unlimited.

I did this in my driveway with the front wheels up on ramps and the rear of
the car blocked up (jack stands placed in front of the rear wheels on the
frame rail) so that the rear wheels were stil just touching the ground and
with blocks wedged in front of and behind each rear wheel and the
transmission in park (I didn't want the car to rolloff the ramps and the
jack stands as I was underneath).

What I ended up doing was, after removing the old pipes, installing the
h-pipe, intermediate pipes and mufflers loosely at first. I discovered that
the holes in the bracket on the mufflers for the hangers did not match the
holes in hangers so I drilled new holes in the brackets on the mufflers for
the hangers and used smaller self-tapping screws with washers to attach the
hangers with. I moved the h-pipe, intermediate pipes and mufflers (hangers
attached) around so that it all appeared to be its logical place and propped
everything up so it was snuggled up against the floor but with adequate
clearance for things to move around (1"-2". Note here: make sure the
muffler outlets are to the inside not the outside.

Then I measured the distance from the inside edge of the rear frame rails to
where the rear hangers lined up against the floor of the car to make sure
the distance was the same on both sides and marked for the two holes for
each bracket's mounting studs. I removed the rear seat and any obstructing
insulation/padding and then moved the blocked up pipes/mufflers out of the
way and driled the holes in the floor. I used black silicone gasket sealer
(it was handy) to seal around the hanger mounting studs when I put them in
the holes from inside the car so there wouldn't be any leaks.

Moving back under the car, I attached the hangers to their mounting studs,
made sure everything still lined up the way I wanted it and installed the
clamps and tightened everything up - including the h-pipe to the manifolds.

Then I wrestled the tail pipes in place. When I installed my tailpipes I
attached the rear hanger brackets to the frame rails using only one bolt
instead of two utilizing an existing hole in the frame rails. This may
position the pipes too high up for your application but worked very nicely
for mine, putting the turn-downs in the same position relative to the rear
valance as the old single exhaust outlet was. I would have had some trouble
drilling new holes without letting down the rear springs so I could get at
the frame rail with a drill.

With the rear hanger brackets, rubber blocks and "C"-shaped bits pushed
through the rubber blocks all in place, I used scraps of wood to hold the
tail pipes where I wanted them while I tightened up the clamps.

One word of caution - the rear brake hose on cars with dual exhaust is in a
different location than on cars with single exhaust systems. On your car, if
you haven't installed the rear chassis line with the new hose bracket, new
hose and new rear axle lines (alot of work unless the car is totally
stripped down and/or you're going through your whole barke systen anyway),
your brake hose will be really close th the driver's side tail pipe. This
can heat up the brake fluid to a point where it may break down and could
also melt the rubber hose.

I an currently using silicone brake fluid, which eliminates the heat issue
there and, to protect the brake hose from melting, I purchased a one-foot
length of high-temp silicone rubber hose with approx 1/2" I.D., spiral cut
it and wrapped it around the rear brake hose. You could also use an
insulating wrap oround the pipe in that area as further insurance.

This seems to have worked out well in my case and I hope it helps you out in
some way as well.

James

----------
>From: Mark Pasch <(email redacted)>
>To: (email redacted)
>Subject: [CM] Underside photo of factory dual exhaust: 65/66
>Date: Fri, Sep 15, 2000, 5:07 PM
>

> Fellow Mustangers,
>
> Does anyone have a good photo (or series) either on-line or that they
> can attach via e-mail (jpg format perferred) which shows the underside
> of a factory dual exhaust system for a 65/66 (non-GT) vehicle?
>
> I am converting my '66 coupe 289 2-V single exhaust to factory dual
> exhaust (Mustang Unlimited aluminized kit) and would appreciate any
> shots which help with placement of hangers, etc. I have the factory
> manual diagram and know about the rear brake line heat problem already
> (I plan to use a heat shield sleeve from JEG'S). I've read already in
> posts here (and elsewhere) about potential problems regarding getting
> the downturns to clear the valence without the whole exhaust system
> hanging too low (the tighter the tuck under the car the better, as far
> as I'm concerned). One rarely sees a good shot of the underside of the
> whole exhaust system on a show vehicle and it's not terribly convenient
> for me to "use a car with factory dual exhaust as a template" (suggested
> by one poster).
>
> Incidentally, I don't plan to take on this fall project till the temps
> here in Arizona drop a bit (107 today here in Tucson)!
>
> Mark
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs
>