Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Tony Day (email redacted)

Hi all,

This weekend I set about the trivial job of replacing the tie-rods on my '67.

Well after several hours of battering the tie-rod puller (pickle fork),
and trying a pitman arm puller that is just too big, I'm stuck (as are
the tie -rods). I tried soaking it in liquid wrench over-night and it
didn't shift.

Any and all suggestions welcome.

TIA

Tony

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Eugene Y C Chu (email redacted)

Tony Day wrote:

>This weekend I set about the trivial job of replacing the tie-rods on my '67.
>
>Well after several hours of battering the tie-rod puller (pickle fork),
>and trying a pitman arm puller that is just too big, I'm stuck (as are
>the tie -rods). I tried soaking it in liquid wrench over-night and it
>didn't shift.

First, I hope you didn't destroy too many things pickle forking the
parts.

The most effective way to remove tie-rod ends is to apply pressure
directly on the stud. First, lower the spindle assembly on something
rigid to support it. Then, if you don't care about the old tie rod,
pound the stud with a sledge hammer of at least 5 pound weight. The
shock of the impact is what will losen it up. If you want to keep the
tie rod, put a nut over the stud and pound, so that there's a chance you
can still recover the thread in case you completely mangle the top of
the stud.

The key thing is to support the spindle (not the control arm) at a point
as close to the tie rod connection point as possible.

good luck
eyc

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Max Watson (email redacted)

Tony,

Two words: BRUTE FORCE. I use a 5lb mini-sledge hammer (there's a word
for these, but I forget.) The end of my pickle fork looks like a mushroom,
your's will too.

--
Max Watson
<(email redacted)> Tractor Factor Productions
Santa Rosa, CA sonic.net/~max

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: David J Harr (email redacted)

>Tony,
>
>Two words: BRUTE FORCE. I use a 5lb mini-sledge hammer (there's a word
>for these, but I forget.) The end of my pickle fork looks like a mushroom,
>your's will too.
>


A big fat hairy ditto on that. After two ays of trying to get the stupid
thing off when I rebuilt my front suspension, I finally lost my temper
and just started smasshing the end of the pickle fork as hard and as fast
as I could. You know "WHAMWHAMWHAMWHAMWHAMWHAMWHAMWHAMWHAMWHAMWHAMWHAM".
Like that. I was also counting the number of times I had to hit the pickle
fork before the thing gave. I counted over 300 hits with the baby sledge
over a period of about two minutes before the sucker gave. Multiply by
four for the effort required for the whole front end...



David


David J Harr
Troublemaker at Large
(email redacted)

Why is this .sig black?

**********************************
* *
* Seymour Cray 1925-1996 RIP *
* *
**********************************

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Columbo Ron (email redacted)


I forgot who's been having tie rod removal woes, but here's my suggestion to
the problem.

Go rent/buy a tie rod removal tool. It works like a gear puller and will
separate the tie rods without all the pounding of a pickle fork. It also
leaves the dust boot undamaged.

IMHO, once you use this tool, you'll NEVER want to use a pickle fork again
to remove a tie rod.

They are expensive to buy at about $50 or $60 as I remember.

Good Luck,
Ron Columbo 64-1/2 Conv
65 GT FB
65 FB
70 Mach I