Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)

I was wondering if anyone out there had some helpful hints for replacing
the strut rod bushings on my 1966 Mustang Coupe? Specifically, I was
wondering if I really needed that "special part" that is mentioned in
the ford shop manual (a metal plate that wedges between the upper and
lower control arms).

Also, I am going to be replacing my power steering cylinder and all the
hoses in the power steering system pretty soon. Any hints that I should
know about that aren't mentioned in the shop manual?

Thanks for your help,
Adam Bates

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Eugene Y C Chu (email redacted)

Adam Bates wrote:

>I was wondering if anyone out there had some helpful hints for replacing
>the strut rod bushings on my 1966 Mustang Coupe? Specifically, I was
>wondering if I really needed that "special part" that is mentioned in
>the ford shop manual (a metal plate that wedges between the upper and
>lower control arms).

If that's the piece that props up the upper suspension so you can loosen
up the lower ball joint, no, I don't think you need it. When I did this
on my car, I loosened up that little pedestal that forms the upper part
of the shock mount, extended the shock all the way, and stuck some 2 by
4 under it to hold up the suspension while I disconnected the lower ball
joint. I think you can use the same method to remove the strut rod.

>Also, I am going to be replacing my power steering cylinder and all the
>hoses in the power steering system pretty soon. Any hints that I should
>know about that aren't mentioned in the shop manual?

Use tube nut wrenches so you don't round off the tube nuts. In some
cases, you'll need two of them; one to grab the nut you're trying to
loosen, and the other to grab the thing you're trying to loosen it from.
On my car, some of those fittings were so tight (and they still leaked!)
that when I applied torque to the nut, it simply transferred to whatever
structure the nut was attached to (the control valve, for example, parts
of which don't take too kindly to high torquing in the wrong direction).
Fortunately, you can get a tool of some sort around most of the
structures to hold them steady.

eyc