Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: wal (Wal Marshall)

After pulling the transmission cross member off my 69 for the second time
due to "bumps" on take off and backing up, I see that not only are all three
chassis mounting holes in the cross member flogged out oval, but the
mounting bolts themselves are 3/8 when the correct size based on the chassis
mounting holes is 7/16. So I need to weld up and redrill the flogged out
crossmember holes for the correct size and source some new mounting bolts.

Which brings me to the subject of welders. Because of the holiday break most
business are closed and I can't just wander down to the local fabrication
shop and get the crossmember repaired. Thus I start once again to think
about making the investment in a welder, and doing the job myself.. (Plus
all those other jobs I never did, or put off, or farmed out due to not
having one.

Doing the research on-line leads me to what appears to be the perfect
"starter" welder where initial cost, versatility and low running costs are
key factors. .. An inverter (ideally a MIG unit), with a current rating in
the 20-150+ range.

Im interested in the experiences of others on the list with inverter
welders.. Or any welder actually.

It seems that to weld thin (e.g. mustang panel) steel you need to be able to
control the current down to about 20-30 A . On the other hand to weld
heavier steel say up to 3/8 plate you need to be in the 200 A range. A
regular "stick" welder capable of 200A will typically not close down to less
than about 50A and a smaller unit that delivers a stable 30A will seems to
be limited to around 100 A at the top end. However, the modern inverter
units (while a bit more expensive) seem to cover the range quite well with a
single unit and also have the benefit of better weld quality and much
lighter....

On Ebay I see Item number: 110327548191
cgi.ebay.com/WeldSmart-200A-IGBT-Inverter-Welder-Arc-MMA-Stick-Tig_W0
QQitemZ110327548191QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Power_Tools?hash=item110327548191&_
trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A
1308%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Has anyone bought a unit like this? It seems early and or cheap and nasty
inverter units have a poor reliability record...

Cheers, Wal

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: dvliet (Darrel Vliet)

Hello Wal,

I looked at this item on eBay and I would not recommend it!
Look for something better like: Lincoln, Miller, or Hobart.

Darrel Vliet
Port Orchard, WA USA


----- Original Message -----
From: "Wal Marshall" <wal at nzmustang.co.nz>
To: "Darrel Vliet" <dvliet at nwinet.com>
Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Stang Tools - Inverter Welders


> After pulling the transmission cross member off my 69 for the second time
> due to "bumps" on take off and backing up, I see that not only are all
> three
> chassis mounting holes in the cross member flogged out oval, but the
> mounting bolts themselves are 3/8 when the correct size based on the
> chassis
> mounting holes is 7/16. So I need to weld up and redrill the flogged out
> crossmember holes for the correct size and source some new mounting bolts.
>
> Which brings me to the subject of welders. Because of the holiday break
> most
> business are closed and I can't just wander down to the local fabrication
> shop and get the crossmember repaired. Thus I start once again to think
> about making the investment in a welder, and doing the job myself.. (Plus
> all those other jobs I never did, or put off, or farmed out due to not
> having one.
>
> Doing the research on-line leads me to what appears to be the perfect
> "starter" welder where initial cost, versatility and low running costs are
> key factors. .. An inverter (ideally a MIG unit), with a current rating in
> the 20-150+ range.
>
> Im interested in the experiences of others on the list with inverter
> welders.. Or any welder actually.
>
> It seems that to weld thin (e.g. mustang panel) steel you need to be able
> to
> control the current down to about 20-30 A . On the other hand to weld
> heavier steel say up to 3/8 plate you need to be in the 200 A range. A
> regular "stick" welder capable of 200A will typically not close down to
> less
> than about 50A and a smaller unit that delivers a stable 30A will seems to
> be limited to around 100 A at the top end. However, the modern inverter
> units (while a bit more expensive) seem to cover the range quite well with
> a
> single unit and also have the benefit of better weld quality and much
> lighter....
>
> On Ebay I see Item number: 110327548191
> cgi.ebay.com/WeldSmart-200A-IGBT-Inverter-Welder-Arc-MMA-Stick-Tig_W0
> QQitemZ110327548191QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Power_Tools?hash=item110327548191&_
> trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A
> 1308%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
>
> Has anyone bought a unit like this? It seems early and or cheap and nasty
> inverter units have a poor reliability record...
>
> Cheers, Wal
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: vintage.electric (Keith Carter)

Hi Wal,

Unlike Darrel, I am not an expert on European or Australian equipment so
I would recommend that you research that unit in AU and see if this is a
well respected brand.

Keith


Darrel Vliet wrote:
> Hello Wal,
>
> I looked at this item on eBay and I would not recommend it!
> Look for something better like: Lincoln, Miller, or Hobart.
>
> Darrel Vliet
> Port Orchard, WA USA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wal Marshall" <wal at nzmustang.co.nz>
> To: "Darrel Vliet" <dvliet at nwinet.com>
> Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 12:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [CM] Stang Tools - Inverter Welders
>
>
>
>> After pulling the transmission cross member off my 69 for the second time
>> due to "bumps" on take off and backing up, I see that not only are all
>> three
>> chassis mounting holes in the cross member flogged out oval, but the
>> mounting bolts themselves are 3/8 when the correct size based on the
>> chassis
>> mounting holes is 7/16. So I need to weld up and redrill the flogged out
>> crossmember holes for the correct size and source some new mounting bolts.
>>
>> Which brings me to the subject of welders. Because of the holiday break
>> most
>> business are closed and I can't just wander down to the local fabrication
>> shop and get the crossmember repaired. Thus I start once again to think
>> about making the investment in a welder, and doing the job myself.. (Plus
>> all those other jobs I never did, or put off, or farmed out due to not
>> having one.
>>
>> Doing the research on-line leads me to what appears to be the perfect
>> "starter" welder where initial cost, versatility and low running costs are
>> key factors. .. An inverter (ideally a MIG unit), with a current rating in
>> the 20-150+ range.
>>
>> Im interested in the experiences of others on the list with inverter
>> welders.. Or any welder actually.
>>
>> It seems that to weld thin (e.g. mustang panel) steel you need to be able
>> to
>> control the current down to about 20-30 A . On the other hand to weld
>> heavier steel say up to 3/8 plate you need to be in the 200 A range. A
>> regular "stick" welder capable of 200A will typically not close down to
>> less
>> than about 50A and a smaller unit that delivers a stable 30A will seems to
>> be limited to around 100 A at the top end. However, the modern inverter
>> units (while a bit more expensive) seem to cover the range quite well with
>> a
>> single unit and also have the benefit of better weld quality and much
>> lighter....
>>
>> On Ebay I see Item number: 110327548191
>> cgi.ebay.com/WeldSmart-200A-IGBT-Inverter-Welder-Arc-MMA-Stick-Tig_W0
>> QQitemZ110327548191QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Power_Tools?hash=item110327548191&_
>> trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A
>> 1308%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
>>
>> Has anyone bought a unit like this? It seems early and or cheap and nasty
>> inverter units have a poor reliability record...
>>
>> Cheers, Wal
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classic-mustangs mailing list
>> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
>> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
>> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: W427 (David)

An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20081226/c11c391d/attachment.html

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: ckelly (raceabilene)

I would not recommend anything less than a Hobart 140 for hobby use.
You will get poor results and learn bad habits using a cheap welder.
That pretty much applies to tools in general.

On Dec 26, 2008, at 2:12 PM, "Wal Marshall" <wal at nzmustang.co.nz> wrote:

> After pulling the transmission cross member off my 69 for the second
> time
> due to "bumps" on take off and backing up, I see that not only are
> all three
> chassis mounting holes in the cross member flogged out oval, but the
> mounting bolts themselves are 3/8 when the correct size based on the
> chassis
> mounting holes is 7/16. So I need to weld up and redrill the
> flogged out
> crossmember holes for the correct size and source some new mounting
> bolts.
>
> Which brings me to the subject of welders. Because of the holiday
> break most
> business are closed and I can't just wander down to the local
> fabrication
> shop and get the crossmember repaired. Thus I start once again to
> think
> about making the investment in a welder, and doing the job myself..
> (Plus
> all those other jobs I never did, or put off, or farmed out due to not
> having one.
>
> Doing the research on-line leads me to what appears to be the perfect
> "starter" welder where initial cost, versatility and low running
> costs are
> key factors. .. An inverter (ideally a MIG unit), with a current
> rating in
> the 20-150+ range.
>
> Im interested in the experiences of others on the list with inverter
> welders.. Or any welder actually.
>
> It seems that to weld thin (e.g. mustang panel) steel you need to be
> able to
> control the current down to about 20-30 A . On the other hand to weld
> heavier steel say up to 3/8 plate you need to be in the 200 A
> range. A
> regular "stick" welder capable of 200A will typically not close down
> to less
> than about 50A and a smaller unit that delivers a stable 30A will
> seems to
> be limited to around 100 A at the top end. However, the modern
> inverter
> units (while a bit more expensive) seem to cover the range quite
> well with a
> single unit and also have the benefit of better weld quality and much
> lighter....
>
> On Ebay I see Item number: 110327548191
> cgi.ebay.com/WeldSmart-200A-IGBT-Inverter-Welder-Arc-MMA-Stick-Tig_W0
> QQitemZ110327548191QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Power_Tools?
> hash=item110327548191&_
> trksid=
> p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A
> 1308%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
>
> Has anyone bought a unit like this? It seems early and or cheap and
> nasty
> inverter units have a poor reliability record...
>
> Cheers, Wal
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

I agree with getting a quality welder. I've got a Century that has served me very well for 15+ years. I've never had a bit of problems with it and it's done _a lot_ of welding. It's a 120V unit and it's rare that I've needed more. For any car welding I've had no problems at all.

MIGs are like metal glue guns once you learn how to do a good bead (both horizontal and vertical). Indispensable IMHO, but I do all my own fabrication and a lot of modifications.

Inverter units aren't really required for this current and MIG. Mine is nearly as small as a large inverter unit (probably 12" wide x 24" long x 17" high). You can get a good one for about $800. I'd consider getting a small 220V unit if I had the money, but like I said, it's not a big deal.

I also do TIG welding, and have a monster unit for that (it's so big it doubles as a table!), but it's not the same at all. It's more for aluminum and special applications. I'm keeping the MIG for most tasks.

Keven