Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Patrick Foley (email redacted)

I am having trouble getting the right spring shock combo for my '72
coupe and wondered if anyone had any advice.

Before I replaced the springs I put KYB gas-a-just shocks on the front
and rear to try and stop the bottoming out when hitting bumps. No big
difference.

Then I replaced the front springs with heavy duty competition style
(lowered 1" coil springs, and put a 1-1/8 sway bar on the front.
The car sat and looked GOOD!
I also replaced the rear springs with heavy duty (1 size fits all)
leafs with a 5" arch for 65-73 Mustangs.

The ride ended up being too harsh, VERY HARD, ok for short trips but if
you drove for any length of time, just too rough. Everything vibrated.

So I replaced the front coils with what was supposed to be stock springs
(as in softer) and now my front end is sitting way too high. The rear
end is too bouncy now too, as if the springs (front and rear together)
aren't right for each other.

I have ordered some "correct specification" rear leafs from Oregon
Spring (with a 7-1/2" arch) hoping this will make everything all right,
but am not sure. I am spending too much money to try and get back that
comfortable ride I used to have.

Should I also replace the KYB's with something else?

Any suggestions?

Patrick Foley

72 coupe
69 convertible

------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Watkins, Paul (email redacted)

IMHO, I would put variable rate springs on a Mustang. Probably
(although this is a guess) the rear leafs are lower than stock. You
could take the front springs off and cut them with a cutoff wheel or
hack saw (no torches please) which will lower the front. I did this on
my '66 coupe and everything went fine. I usually did 1/4 of a coil at a
time - it's time consuming that way but at least I got it right the
first time. Just remember if you do that to at least bounce the car a
couple times - or roll it up and down the driveway to get the suspension
to settle before you look at the ride height.

> ----------
> From: Patrick Foley[SMTPemail redacted)]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 1998 8:00 PM
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: [CM:11443] Spring's & Shock's
>
> I am having trouble getting the right spring shock combo for my '72
> coupe and wondered if anyone had any advice.
>
> Before I replaced the springs I put KYB gas-a-just shocks on the front
> and rear to try and stop the bottoming out when hitting bumps. No big
> difference.
>
> Then I replaced the front springs with heavy duty competition style
> (lowered 1" coil springs, and put a 1-1/8 sway bar on the front.
> The car sat and looked GOOD!
> I also replaced the rear springs with heavy duty (1 size fits all)
> leafs with a 5" arch for 65-73 Mustangs.
>
> The ride ended up being too harsh, VERY HARD, ok for short trips but
> if
> you drove for any length of time, just too rough. Everything vibrated.
>
> So I replaced the front coils with what was supposed to be stock
> springs
> (as in softer) and now my front end is sitting way too high. The rear
> end is too bouncy now too, as if the springs (front and rear together)
> aren't right for each other.
>
> I have ordered some "correct specification" rear leafs from Oregon
> Spring (with a 7-1/2" arch) hoping this will make everything all
> right,
> but am not sure. I am spending too much money to try and get back that
> comfortable ride I used to have.
>
> Should I also replace the KYB's with something else?
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Patrick Foley
>
> 72 coupe
> 69 convertible
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> All the list info you'll ever want:
> antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm
>

------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: DeshazerV (email redacted)

Patrick,

Based on many magazine articles I have read over the years,
I think the most popular street combo is 620# front coils
and 4 or 4 & 1/2 leaf rears with a 1 inch swap bar up front.

The 5 leaf rear, as you a painfully aware, is considered too
harsh as are the 720 pound front springs and/or a 1 1/8 sway
bar.

Interestingly enough, I read a somewhat different perspective
in the Peter Sessler book I bought recently. He recommended
keeping the stock springs and installing polyurethane sway bar
bushings with the stock sway bar which I had never read before.

Another option is the Maustang GT rear leaf springs which I
believe are stiffer than stock, but softer than most aftermarkst
"performance handling" springs.

Others have said that the negative wedge kit is the best handling
improvement they've made to their suspension. You might consider
it in conjunction with stock springs for a soft ride with improved
handling.

Good luck and keep us informed on your progress/results.

Vince

On May 21, 12:00am, Patrick Foley wrote:
> I am having trouble getting the right spring shock combo for my '72
> coupe and wondered if anyone had any advice.
>
> Before I replaced the springs I put KYB gas-a-just shocks on the front
> and rear to try and stop the bottoming out when hitting bumps. No big
> difference.
>
> Then I replaced the front springs with heavy duty competition style
> (lowered 1" coil springs, and put a 1-1/8 sway bar on the front.
> The car sat and looked GOOD!
> I also replaced the rear springs with heavy duty (1 size fits all)
> leafs with a 5" arch for 65-73 Mustangs.
>
> The ride ended up being too harsh, VERY HARD, ok for short trips but if
> you drove for any length of time, just too rough. Everything vibrated.
>
> So I replaced the front coils with what was supposed to be stock springs
> (as in softer) and now my front end is sitting way too high. The rear
> end is too bouncy now too, as if the springs (front and rear together)
> aren't right for each other.
>
> I have ordered some "correct specification" rear leafs from Oregon
> Spring (with a 7-1/2" arch) hoping this will make everything all right,
> but am not sure. I am spending too much money to try and get back that
> comfortable ride I used to have.
>
> Should I also replace the KYB's with something else?
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Patrick Foley
>
> 72 coupe
> 69 convertible
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm
>
>-- End of excerpt from Patrick Foley



------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: David Stone (email redacted)

Hi,

Snip

>Patrick,

>Others have said that the negative wedge kit is the best handling
>improvement they've made to their suspension. You might consider
>it in conjunction with stock springs for a soft ride with improved
>handling.

I think I read it on the group and that was to gently heat the
coils untill cheary red and then bounce the front end of the car a
few times which would then re-shape (compress) them.


Is this a good idea as to try and get them both the same I would
have thought would have been quite difficult, but less labour
intensive and you would drop them that inch.

Any thoughts on this.

Dave
66 Fastback


------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Watkins, Paul (email redacted)

I've seen people do this before as well as use a cutting torch to cut
coils and I would suggest highly you don't do that... The primary
concern is by heating the coils you might compromise the structural
integrity of the metal.

I can't say that it didn't work when people did it but I wouldn't want
to be the person driving to find out the hard way someone goofed.
Besides, it really doesn't take more than a day or two to do it right
and the side benefit is you'll have access to areas of the shock towers
that are hard to clean and paint with the coils in.

> I think I read it on the group and that was to gently heat the
> coils untill cheary red and then bounce the front end of the car a
> few times which would then re-shape (compress) them.
>
>
> Is this a good idea as to try and get them both the same I would
> have thought would have been quite difficult, but less labour
> intensive and you would drop them that inch.
>
> Any thoughts on this.
>

------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: David Spangler (email redacted)

It's been almost 20 years or so since my "mechanics of materials" class,
but I seem to remember that cooling a metal slowly can cause embrittlement.
That means it could snap when loaded. Like a piece of chalk.

Any metallurgists on the list?

Dave

----------
> From: Watkins, Paul <(email redacted)>
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: Re: [CM:11518] Spring's & Shock's
> Date: Saturday, May 23, 1998 12:40 PM
>
> I've seen people do this before as well as use a cutting torch to cut
> coils and I would suggest highly you don't do that... The primary
> concern is by heating the coils you might compromise the structural
> integrity of the metal.
>
> I can't say that it didn't work when people did it but I wouldn't want
> to be the person driving to find out the hard way someone goofed.
> Besides, it really doesn't take more than a day or two to do it right
> and the side benefit is you'll have access to areas of the shock towers
> that are hard to clean and paint with the coils in.
>
> > I think I read it on the group and that was to gently heat the
> > coils untill cheary red and then bounce the front end of the car a
> > few times which would then re-shape (compress) them.

> > Any thoughts on this.


------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Patrick Foley (email redacted)

I just had my new "made to order" leaf springs installed that I
purchased from Oregon Spring. There is a big difference between "one
size fits all" from Moog and factory spec springs for a specific year
and engine size.

The car sits evenly at the right height now and the car feels much
smoother going down the road. I was told by several people it wasnt a
good idea to cut the front springs in any way, as it would change the
rating of the load they were designed to handle as well.

Thanks to all who responded with their idea's and thoughts.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Watkins, Paul (email redacted)


> I was told by several people it wasnt a
> good idea to cut the front springs in any way, as it would change the
> rating of the load they were designed to handle as well.
>
> You are correct about that by the way, is the handeling any
> better? IIRC, you said the handling was harsh?
>
> Paul
>

------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Patrick Foley (email redacted)

The ride is so much better. It is firm, but not too harsh. The combo I
ended up with is thr 620 front coils, the 7'1/2" arch rear leafs for my
perticular model, and KYB gasajust shocks all around, with a 1-1/8"
front sway bar. New control arms and bushings too. I am very pleased
now. Smooth but firm.

Patrick Foley

Watkins, Paul wrote:
>
> > I was told by several people it wasnt a
> > good idea to cut the front springs in any way, as it would change the
> > rating of the load they were designed to handle as well.
> >
> > You are correct about that by the way, is the handeling any
> > better? IIRC, you said the handling was harsh?
> >
> > Paul
> >
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm