Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (mark thispot)

Which rack mentioned is the fast ratio, tight turning radius, no bump-steer,
works freakin' great rack? Link it to a particular car so I can ask for a
rebuilt unit at the local "all-I-know-is-what's-in-the-computer" counter.
Is this a power or manual rack?

Mark
70 Mach 1


> > The Rack used is a mid-80's GM "J-car", a '85-89ish Pontiac
> > Grand AM.
> >
> > Kelly
>
SNIP
> >
> > it's an g.m. a-body rack (if memory serves) with a few (easily) fabbed
> > parts.
SNIP

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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Sixto Bernal)

hi Mark,

can't answer question #1

it's a power rack...

At 05:31 PM 10/27/01 +0000, you wrote:
>Which rack mentioned is the fast ratio, tight turning radius, no
>bump-steer, works freakin' great rack? Link it to a particular car so I
>can ask for a rebuilt unit at the local
>"all-I-know-is-what's-in-the-computer" counter.
>Is this a power or manual rack?
>
>Mark
>70 Mach 1
>
>
>> > The Rack used is a mid-80's GM "J-car", a '85-89ish Pontiac
>> > Grand AM.
>> >
>> > Kelly
>SNIP
>> >
>> > it's an g.m. a-body rack (if memory serves) with a few (easily) fabbed
>> > parts.
>SNIP

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thanks, "for evil to triumph,
sixto good men need only do nothing"

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Keven Coates)

If memory serves it was an Olds Calais rack. They have two versions of the
Calais rack, one is more sporty and may have a higher steering effort and
ratio.

I wouldn't say the parts were "easily" fabbed. It was something you could
do, but the average person wouldn't want to trust his/her life to their own
welding on this type of setup.

The problem is that the Calais rack works great, but wasn't designed for the
side loads induced by the large offset of the inner tie rod arms being
placed farther forward than they were designed to be. The fabbed parts
alleviated the stress of the setup by providing a slide plate that a bearing
would slide against.

Keven Coates
'68 T-5 Mustang

>-----Original Message-----
>From: (email redacted)
>[mailtoemail redacted)]On Behalf Of Sixto
>Bernal
>Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 12:52 PM
>To: (email redacted)
>Subject: Re: [CM] Re: R&P conversion
>
>
>hi Mark,
>
>can't answer question #1
>
>it's a power rack...
>
>At 05:31 PM 10/27/01 +0000, you wrote:
>>Which rack mentioned is the fast ratio, tight turning radius, no
>>bump-steer, works freakin' great rack? Link it to a particular car so I
>>can ask for a rebuilt unit at the local
>>"all-I-know-is-what's-in-the-computer" counter.
>>Is this a power or manual rack?
>>
>>Mark
>>70 Mach 1
>>
>>
>>> > The Rack used is a mid-80's GM "J-car", a '85-89ish Pontiac
>>> > Grand AM.
>>> >
>>> > Kelly
>>SNIP
>>> >
>>> > it's an g.m. a-body rack (if memory serves) with a few (easily) fabbed
>>> > parts.
>>SNIP
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>---------
>-----------
>thanks, "for evil to triumph,
>sixto good men need only do nothing"
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>(email redacted)
>mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Sixto Bernal)

hi guys,

here's how far i got.

the rack in question was used on the following vehicles.

Pontiac Grand Am 87-96
J2000 87-93
Sunbird 87-94
Olds Calais 87-91
Firenze 87-88
Chevy Beretta 87-93
Cavalier 87-94

it may be used on more GM vehicles but that's enough to get one from
the boneyard and begin measurements and mock-up. checking around
it seems that the rebuilt units are about $100 with core.

more as i progress. this is going to be fun...
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thanks, "for evil to triumph,
sixto good men need only do nothing"

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Sixto Bernal)

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hi guys,

here's and interesting article that sheds light on the subject. am on the
way to the JY right now to pick up a unit for mock up...

GM Steering Racks
Larry Carley
Brake & Front End, 7/99

CENTER TAKE-OFF RACKS

Center take-off racks are found on 1982 to 1993 "J", "L" and "N" body cars;

Buick Skyhawk, Skylark
Cadillac Cimarron,
Chevy Baretta, Cavalier
Oldsmobile Firenza, Calais
Pontiac Grand Am, Sunbird, J2000

These racks have tie rods that connect to the center of the rack rather
than the ends. This allows for tighter packaging and makes it possible to
mount the rack on the firewall behind the engine rather than under the
engine on the subframe or cross member. The center take-off design
eliminates the inner tie rod sockets and a potential wear point. The tie
rods have eyelets that bolt to the rack, so any toe-related tire wear
problems are usually caused by worn outer tie rod ends or misadjusted tie rods.

If you're replacing a center take-off rack, make sure the center housing
cover washer goes between the inner tie rods and rack. If this washer is
omitted or installed on top of the tie rods, the tie rod bolts will extend
too far through the rack and contact the inside of the rack housing. This
can cause binding, poor steering return or even crack the rack housing. So
washers should be under both tie rods before installing the outer bolt
support plate, lock plate and bolts.

Something else to be aware of on these racks is that two different types of
steering column couplers have been used. The 1982-86 racks have a splined
pinion shaft with a single flat, while the 1987-and-later racks have no
splines on the pinion shaft. The later-model pinion shafts are notched to
clear a pinch bolt on the steering coupler and also have two opposing flats.

Another way to distinguish the early racks from the later is to note where
the fluid lines attach to the rack housing. On the early racks, the lines
run from the control valve housing to the very end of the rack. On the
newer racks, the lines from the control valve housing attach to the side of
the rack.

In some cases, an early-model rack may have already been replaced with a
later-model rack. The racks are interchangeable, but doing so requires
changing the steering column coupler.

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thanks, "for evil to triumph,
sixto good men need only do nothing"

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<html>
hi guys,<br>
<br>
here's and interesting article that sheds light on the subject. am on
the<br>
way to the JY right now to pick up a unit for mock up...<br>
<br>
GM Steering Racks <br>
Larry Carley <br>
Brake &amp; Front End, 7/99<br>
<br>
<b>CENTER TAKE-OFF RACKS<br>
<br>
</b>Center take-off racks are found on 1982 to 1993 &quot;J&quot;,
&quot;L&quot; and &quot;N&quot; body cars;<br>
<br>
Buick Skyhawk, Skylark
<dl>
<dd>Cadillac Cimarron,
<dd>Chevy Baretta, Cavalier
<dd>Oldsmobile Firenza, Calais
<dd>Pontiac Grand Am, Sunbird, J2000 <br>
<br>

</dl>These racks have tie rods that connect to the center of the rack
rather than the ends. This allows for tighter packaging and makes it
possible to mount the rack on the firewall behind the engine rather than
under the engine on the subframe or cross member. The center take-off
design eliminates the inner tie rod sockets and a potential wear point.
The tie rods have eyelets that bolt to the rack, so any toe-related tire
wear problems are usually caused by worn outer tie rod ends or
misadjusted tie rods.<br>
<br>
If you’re replacing a center take-off rack, make sure the center housing
cover washer goes between the inner tie rods and rack. If this washer is
omitted or installed on top of the tie rods, the tie rod bolts will
extend too far through the rack and contact the inside of the rack
housing. This can cause binding, poor steering return or even crack the
rack housing. So washers should be under both tie rods before installing
the outer bolt support plate, lock plate and bolts. <br>
<br>
Something else to be aware of on these racks is that two different types
of steering column couplers have been used. The 1982-86 racks have a
splined pinion shaft with a single flat, while the 1987-and-later racks
have no splines on the pinion shaft. The later-model pinion shafts are
notched to clear a pinch bolt on the steering coupler and also have two
opposing flats.<br>
<br>
Another way to distinguish the early racks from the later is to note
where the fluid lines attach to the rack housing. On the early racks, the
lines run from the control valve housing to the very end of the rack. On
the newer racks, the lines from the control valve housing attach to the
side of the rack.<br>
<br>
In some cases, an early-model rack may have already been replaced with a
later-model rack. The racks are interchangeable, but doing so requires
changing the steering column coupler.<br>
<br>
<div>---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</div>
<div>thanks,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
&quot;for evil to triumph,</div>
sixto&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
good men need only do nothing&quot;
</html>

--Boundary_(ID_cjaZSA1iIRSZspyetIHERQ)--

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Sixto Bernal)

hi guys,

i went to the JY and got a rack. i got the early style, aluminum housing with
the splined D shaped input shaft. the rack has a 4" travel, and it takes 1 3/4
turns lock to lock. the housing at the valve end has a D shaped mounting
surface, the round part is a metal strap, the flat is part of the firewall. the
other mounting point is externally the same D shape, but it clamps over
a round area at the other end of the rack. the tie rod mounting holes are
on the front, or axle side of the rack.

today i want to visit a couple of local shops in my search for the proper
spherical rod ends, and mounting hardware. i anticipate having to drill out
the spindle tapers. i want to have the tie-rod mount on the top side of the
spindle arm. all the bump steer correction kits i've seen do it this way.

i will also be measuring bump steer on the car as it is now. i want to get
a baseline from which to decide if the changes are good or not...




----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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thanks, "for evil to triumph,
sixto good men need only do nothing"

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Sixto Bernal)

hi guys,

just finished stripping the rack of bellows and tubing. a spacer that goes
between the inner rod end and the actual rack had come loose so i had
gotten some bad measurements before.

the rack moves a total of 6" with 2 1/2 turns lock to lock. that's more like
it ! Ramona also moves about 6" lock to lock, but she takes 3 1/2
turns to do it.

the rods are held to the rack by metric cap bolts, 15mm socket with a
12mm (7/16" shank. don't know 'nuthin' 'bout metric

i got out a spare Granada spindle and measured the outer tie-rod hole.
it's tapered, but could be drilled out to 5/8" (16mm).

HOWEVER, now that i've been under my car i realize how level my stock
tie rods are. (my car's been lowered two inches in the front ) i think i'm
going to abandon the spherical rod ends in favor of the originals. there's
really no geometry gains to be had by going with sphericals mounted on
top of the spindle arm. in fact it would probably hurt bump steer.

that will simplify the installation and mean that i only have to fabricate an
adapter/drag link to bolt to the rack. one that will mimic the spacing of the
original drag link.

since i already have the mounting brackets, that will leave only the rack
input shaft to steering column universal to figure out. so that's what i'm
going to work on next. luckily i have a spare steering wheel to play with.

more later...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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thanks, "for evil to triumph,
sixto good men need only do nothing"

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Rick Larson)

Sixto,

> since i already have the mounting brackets, that will leave only the rack
> input shaft to steering column universal to figure out. so that's what i'm
> going to work on next. luckily i have a spare steering wheel to play with.

I noticed the stearing shaft from a mid 90s camry has a couple of
really nice u-joints that might help you route to your new box.

rick

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Sixto Bernal)

hi Rick,

thank you very much.

i was contemplating another visit to the JY to look for just such a thing...

At 09:02 AM 11/9/01 -0600, you wrote:

> > since i already have the mounting brackets, that will leave only the rack
> > input shaft to steering column universal to figure out. so that's what i'm
> > going to work on next. luckily i have a spare steering wheel to play with.
>
>I noticed the stearing shaft from a mid 90s camry has a couple of
>really nice u-joints that might help you route to your new box.

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thanks, "for evil to triumph,
sixto good men need only do nothing"

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Wal Marshall)

I case its of interest, a good source of steering column components, shafts,
all types of unijoints etc for such conversions can be found at Borgeson
Engineering. www.borgeson.com
Their catalogues are excellent and contain good general information about
steering column components and how to design and use them, and what NOT to
do.

Wal Marshall
www.NZMustang.com
>
> > > since i already have the mounting brackets, that will leave only the
rack
> > > input shaft to steering column universal to figure out. so that's what
i'm
> > > going to work on next. luckily i have a spare steering wheel to play
with.
> >
> >I noticed the stearing shaft from a mid 90s camry has a couple of
> >really nice u-joints that might help you route to your new box.
>