Classic Mustangs List Archive
Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
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Mail From: shawkins777 (Steve Hawkins)
They have them specifically for the AC. Go here
store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D46%2D74
&N=700+4294848565+115&autoview=sku
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Lance
Robaldo
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:06 AM
To: shawkins777 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
->Does anyone have an "official" name for these things? I'd like to
->google it or something so I can see what they look like. It may be
->worth a trip to the wrecking yard, but it would kind of help to know
->what to look for.
Jeff,
They're simply called a "fast idle solenoid". But they aren't really
intended
for A/C applications. What they're really for is to allow you to run a
faster
idle, but not have the dieseling problem that goes with a faster idle.
Because
of that, they are also called "anti dieseling solenoids"
They're generally intended to shut the throttle plate(s) when you stop the
car.
I imagine you could probably wire it to the A/C switch and use it in that
manner... But you shouldn't need to if you're A/C is properly installed and
charged.
You keep saying that the mechanic is afraid of burning out the compressor.
Doesn't your setup have a pressure safety switch? All Classic Auto Air, and
I thought all Vintage Air setups come with a pressure safety switch that
shuts the compressor down if the high pressure side is becoming dangerous to
the compressor.
It's usually a small round device screwed into dryer or into a block in the
liquid (high pressure) line. A single wire comes from the evaporator to
this switch, and a single wire runs from the switch to the compressor
clutch.
In the event that it is putting out dangerously high pressure on the high
side, without being fully charged (as indicated by an extremely low pressure
on the low side), then yes, in theory it can be a problem with airflow
across the condenser, but I don't think that's the real problem here unless
you're just getting no airflow at all.
Again, I point at your radiator as a good diagnostic tool. If it's not
overheating, then you're getting enough airflow to not cause the compressor
high pressure to become THAT high.
It's MUCH more likely that you have air in the system due to improper
vacuuming. Air is not nearly as compressible as Freon, and it will cause the
high side readings to go WAY up.
This can also be caused by a clogged dryer or stuck expansion valve; again
these are generally caused by improper vacuuming to remove all air &
moisture.
Excessive moisture in the system can clog the dryer. Moisture can also
freeze at the expansion valve causing it to malfunction.
Even slight amounts of moisture in the system can become acidic in the
presence of Freon and slowly destroy your compressor. So you can see how
important it is to do a full vacuum for at least 45 minutes to "boil off"
ANY moisture in the system before charging.
Did the mechanic do an oil charge too? If so, it's very possible that
there is
too much oil in the system. Those systems come with the compressor already
charged with the correct amount of oil. Adding more oil to the system can
cause these symptoms also since oil isn't as compressible as Freon either.
Lance.
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
Mail From: shawkins777 (Steve Hawkins)
They have them specifically for the AC. Go here
store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D46%2D74
&N=700+4294848565+115&autoview=sku
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Lance
Robaldo
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:06 AM
To: shawkins777 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
->Does anyone have an "official" name for these things? I'd like to
->google it or something so I can see what they look like. It may be
->worth a trip to the wrecking yard, but it would kind of help to know
->what to look for.
Jeff,
They're simply called a "fast idle solenoid". But they aren't really
intended
for A/C applications. What they're really for is to allow you to run a
faster
idle, but not have the dieseling problem that goes with a faster idle.
Because
of that, they are also called "anti dieseling solenoids"
They're generally intended to shut the throttle plate(s) when you stop the
car.
I imagine you could probably wire it to the A/C switch and use it in that
manner... But you shouldn't need to if you're A/C is properly installed and
charged.
You keep saying that the mechanic is afraid of burning out the compressor.
Doesn't your setup have a pressure safety switch? All Classic Auto Air, and
I thought all Vintage Air setups come with a pressure safety switch that
shuts the compressor down if the high pressure side is becoming dangerous to
the compressor.
It's usually a small round device screwed into dryer or into a block in the
liquid (high pressure) line. A single wire comes from the evaporator to
this switch, and a single wire runs from the switch to the compressor
clutch.
In the event that it is putting out dangerously high pressure on the high
side, without being fully charged (as indicated by an extremely low pressure
on the low side), then yes, in theory it can be a problem with airflow
across the condenser, but I don't think that's the real problem here unless
you're just getting no airflow at all.
Again, I point at your radiator as a good diagnostic tool. If it's not
overheating, then you're getting enough airflow to not cause the compressor
high pressure to become THAT high.
It's MUCH more likely that you have air in the system due to improper
vacuuming. Air is not nearly as compressible as Freon, and it will cause the
high side readings to go WAY up.
This can also be caused by a clogged dryer or stuck expansion valve; again
these are generally caused by improper vacuuming to remove all air &
moisture.
Excessive moisture in the system can clog the dryer. Moisture can also
freeze at the expansion valve causing it to malfunction.
Even slight amounts of moisture in the system can become acidic in the
presence of Freon and slowly destroy your compressor. So you can see how
important it is to do a full vacuum for at least 45 minutes to "boil off"
ANY moisture in the system before charging.
Did the mechanic do an oil charge too? If so, it's very possible that
there is
too much oil in the system. Those systems come with the compressor already
charged with the correct amount of oil. Adding more oil to the system can
cause these symptoms also since oil isn't as compressible as Freon either.
Lance.
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
|
., Online, USA
|
This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: jeffsubs (Jeff Shanholtz)
Thanks Steve. Wow! That's expensive. Sounds like a trip to the wrecking yard
is in order, especially since I was hoping for another excuse to go there
anyway (want to pick up a couple of hood/trunk lights). But at least it
gives me a picture of what they look like.
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Steve
Hawkins
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 3:44 PM
To: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com
Subject: Re: [CM] Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
They have them specifically for the AC. Go here
store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D46%2D74
&N=700+4294848565+115&autoview=sku
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Lance
Robaldo
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:06 AM
To: shawkins777 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
->Does anyone have an "official" name for these things? I'd like to
->google it or something so I can see what they look like. It may be
->worth a trip to the wrecking yard, but it would kind of help to know
->what to look for.
Jeff,
They're simply called a "fast idle solenoid". But they aren't really
intended
for A/C applications. What they're really for is to allow you to run a
faster
idle, but not have the dieseling problem that goes with a faster idle.
Because
of that, they are also called "anti dieseling solenoids"
They're generally intended to shut the throttle plate(s) when you stop the
car.
I imagine you could probably wire it to the A/C switch and use it in that
manner... But you shouldn't need to if you're A/C is properly installed and
charged.
You keep saying that the mechanic is afraid of burning out the compressor.
Doesn't your setup have a pressure safety switch? All Classic Auto Air, and
I thought all Vintage Air setups come with a pressure safety switch that
shuts the compressor down if the high pressure side is becoming dangerous to
the compressor.
It's usually a small round device screwed into dryer or into a block in the
liquid (high pressure) line. A single wire comes from the evaporator to
this switch, and a single wire runs from the switch to the compressor
clutch.
In the event that it is putting out dangerously high pressure on the high
side, without being fully charged (as indicated by an extremely low pressure
on the low side), then yes, in theory it can be a problem with airflow
across the condenser, but I don't think that's the real problem here unless
you're just getting no airflow at all.
Again, I point at your radiator as a good diagnostic tool. If it's not
overheating, then you're getting enough airflow to not cause the compressor
high pressure to become THAT high.
It's MUCH more likely that you have air in the system due to improper
vacuuming. Air is not nearly as compressible as Freon, and it will cause the
high side readings to go WAY up.
This can also be caused by a clogged dryer or stuck expansion valve; again
these are generally caused by improper vacuuming to remove all air &
moisture.
Excessive moisture in the system can clog the dryer. Moisture can also
freeze at the expansion valve causing it to malfunction.
Even slight amounts of moisture in the system can become acidic in the
presence of Freon and slowly destroy your compressor. So you can see how
important it is to do a full vacuum for at least 45 minutes to "boil off"
ANY moisture in the system before charging.
Did the mechanic do an oil charge too? If so, it's very possible that
there is
too much oil in the system. Those systems come with the compressor already
charged with the correct amount of oil. Adding more oil to the system can
cause these symptoms also since oil isn't as compressible as Freon either.
Lance.
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
Mail From: jeffsubs (Jeff Shanholtz)
Thanks Steve. Wow! That's expensive. Sounds like a trip to the wrecking yard
is in order, especially since I was hoping for another excuse to go there
anyway (want to pick up a couple of hood/trunk lights). But at least it
gives me a picture of what they look like.
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Steve
Hawkins
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 3:44 PM
To: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com
Subject: Re: [CM] Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
They have them specifically for the AC. Go here
store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D46%2D74
&N=700+4294848565+115&autoview=sku
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Lance
Robaldo
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:06 AM
To: shawkins777 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
->Does anyone have an "official" name for these things? I'd like to
->google it or something so I can see what they look like. It may be
->worth a trip to the wrecking yard, but it would kind of help to know
->what to look for.
Jeff,
They're simply called a "fast idle solenoid". But they aren't really
intended
for A/C applications. What they're really for is to allow you to run a
faster
idle, but not have the dieseling problem that goes with a faster idle.
Because
of that, they are also called "anti dieseling solenoids"
They're generally intended to shut the throttle plate(s) when you stop the
car.
I imagine you could probably wire it to the A/C switch and use it in that
manner... But you shouldn't need to if you're A/C is properly installed and
charged.
You keep saying that the mechanic is afraid of burning out the compressor.
Doesn't your setup have a pressure safety switch? All Classic Auto Air, and
I thought all Vintage Air setups come with a pressure safety switch that
shuts the compressor down if the high pressure side is becoming dangerous to
the compressor.
It's usually a small round device screwed into dryer or into a block in the
liquid (high pressure) line. A single wire comes from the evaporator to
this switch, and a single wire runs from the switch to the compressor
clutch.
In the event that it is putting out dangerously high pressure on the high
side, without being fully charged (as indicated by an extremely low pressure
on the low side), then yes, in theory it can be a problem with airflow
across the condenser, but I don't think that's the real problem here unless
you're just getting no airflow at all.
Again, I point at your radiator as a good diagnostic tool. If it's not
overheating, then you're getting enough airflow to not cause the compressor
high pressure to become THAT high.
It's MUCH more likely that you have air in the system due to improper
vacuuming. Air is not nearly as compressible as Freon, and it will cause the
high side readings to go WAY up.
This can also be caused by a clogged dryer or stuck expansion valve; again
these are generally caused by improper vacuuming to remove all air &
moisture.
Excessive moisture in the system can clog the dryer. Moisture can also
freeze at the expansion valve causing it to malfunction.
Even slight amounts of moisture in the system can become acidic in the
presence of Freon and slowly destroy your compressor. So you can see how
important it is to do a full vacuum for at least 45 minutes to "boil off"
ANY moisture in the system before charging.
Did the mechanic do an oil charge too? If so, it's very possible that
there is
too much oil in the system. Those systems come with the compressor already
charged with the correct amount of oil. Adding more oil to the system can
cause these symptoms also since oil isn't as compressible as Freon either.
Lance.
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
|
., Online, USA
|
This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: shawkins777 (Steve Hawkins)
These are a perfect fit. They even have rubber by-pass flaps that open on
the corners for added air flow on the highway.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Jeff
Shanholtz
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 7:15 PM
To: shawkins777 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
Thanks Steve. Wow! That's expensive. Sounds like a trip to the wrecking yard
is in order, especially since I was hoping for another excuse to go there
anyway (want to pick up a couple of hood/trunk lights). But at least it
gives me a picture of what they look like.
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Steve
Hawkins
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 3:44 PM
To: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com
Subject: Re: [CM] Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
They have them specifically for the AC. Go here
store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D46%2D74
&N=700+4294848565+115&autoview=sku
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Lance
Robaldo
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:06 AM
To: shawkins777 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
->Does anyone have an "official" name for these things? I'd like to
->google it or something so I can see what they look like. It may be
->worth a trip to the wrecking yard, but it would kind of help to know
->what to look for.
Jeff,
They're simply called a "fast idle solenoid". But they aren't really
intended
for A/C applications. What they're really for is to allow you to run a
faster
idle, but not have the dieseling problem that goes with a faster idle.
Because
of that, they are also called "anti dieseling solenoids"
They're generally intended to shut the throttle plate(s) when you stop the
car.
I imagine you could probably wire it to the A/C switch and use it in that
manner... But you shouldn't need to if you're A/C is properly installed and
charged.
You keep saying that the mechanic is afraid of burning out the compressor.
Doesn't your setup have a pressure safety switch? All Classic Auto Air, and
I thought all Vintage Air setups come with a pressure safety switch that
shuts the compressor down if the high pressure side is becoming dangerous to
the compressor.
It's usually a small round device screwed into dryer or into a block in the
liquid (high pressure) line. A single wire comes from the evaporator to
this switch, and a single wire runs from the switch to the compressor
clutch.
In the event that it is putting out dangerously high pressure on the high
side, without being fully charged (as indicated by an extremely low pressure
on the low side), then yes, in theory it can be a problem with airflow
across the condenser, but I don't think that's the real problem here unless
you're just getting no airflow at all.
Again, I point at your radiator as a good diagnostic tool. If it's not
overheating, then you're getting enough airflow to not cause the compressor
high pressure to become THAT high.
It's MUCH more likely that you have air in the system due to improper
vacuuming. Air is not nearly as compressible as Freon, and it will cause the
high side readings to go WAY up.
This can also be caused by a clogged dryer or stuck expansion valve; again
these are generally caused by improper vacuuming to remove all air &
moisture.
Excessive moisture in the system can clog the dryer. Moisture can also
freeze at the expansion valve causing it to malfunction.
Even slight amounts of moisture in the system can become acidic in the
presence of Freon and slowly destroy your compressor. So you can see how
important it is to do a full vacuum for at least 45 minutes to "boil off"
ANY moisture in the system before charging.
Did the mechanic do an oil charge too? If so, it's very possible that
there is
too much oil in the system. Those systems come with the compressor already
charged with the correct amount of oil. Adding more oil to the system can
cause these symptoms also since oil isn't as compressible as Freon either.
Lance.
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
Mail From: shawkins777 (Steve Hawkins)
These are a perfect fit. They even have rubber by-pass flaps that open on
the corners for added air flow on the highway.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Jeff
Shanholtz
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 7:15 PM
To: shawkins777 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
Thanks Steve. Wow! That's expensive. Sounds like a trip to the wrecking yard
is in order, especially since I was hoping for another excuse to go there
anyway (want to pick up a couple of hood/trunk lights). But at least it
gives me a picture of what they look like.
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Steve
Hawkins
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 3:44 PM
To: jeffsubs at shanholtz.com
Subject: Re: [CM] Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
They have them specifically for the AC. Go here
store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D46%2D74
&N=700+4294848565+115&autoview=sku
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Lance
Robaldo
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:06 AM
To: shawkins777 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] Post-AC install problem: closing the gaps
->Does anyone have an "official" name for these things? I'd like to
->google it or something so I can see what they look like. It may be
->worth a trip to the wrecking yard, but it would kind of help to know
->what to look for.
Jeff,
They're simply called a "fast idle solenoid". But they aren't really
intended
for A/C applications. What they're really for is to allow you to run a
faster
idle, but not have the dieseling problem that goes with a faster idle.
Because
of that, they are also called "anti dieseling solenoids"
They're generally intended to shut the throttle plate(s) when you stop the
car.
I imagine you could probably wire it to the A/C switch and use it in that
manner... But you shouldn't need to if you're A/C is properly installed and
charged.
You keep saying that the mechanic is afraid of burning out the compressor.
Doesn't your setup have a pressure safety switch? All Classic Auto Air, and
I thought all Vintage Air setups come with a pressure safety switch that
shuts the compressor down if the high pressure side is becoming dangerous to
the compressor.
It's usually a small round device screwed into dryer or into a block in the
liquid (high pressure) line. A single wire comes from the evaporator to
this switch, and a single wire runs from the switch to the compressor
clutch.
In the event that it is putting out dangerously high pressure on the high
side, without being fully charged (as indicated by an extremely low pressure
on the low side), then yes, in theory it can be a problem with airflow
across the condenser, but I don't think that's the real problem here unless
you're just getting no airflow at all.
Again, I point at your radiator as a good diagnostic tool. If it's not
overheating, then you're getting enough airflow to not cause the compressor
high pressure to become THAT high.
It's MUCH more likely that you have air in the system due to improper
vacuuming. Air is not nearly as compressible as Freon, and it will cause the
high side readings to go WAY up.
This can also be caused by a clogged dryer or stuck expansion valve; again
these are generally caused by improper vacuuming to remove all air &
moisture.
Excessive moisture in the system can clog the dryer. Moisture can also
freeze at the expansion valve causing it to malfunction.
Even slight amounts of moisture in the system can become acidic in the
presence of Freon and slowly destroy your compressor. So you can see how
important it is to do a full vacuum for at least 45 minutes to "boil off"
ANY moisture in the system before charging.
Did the mechanic do an oil charge too? If so, it's very possible that
there is
too much oil in the system. Those systems come with the compressor already
charged with the correct amount of oil. Adding more oil to the system can
cause these symptoms also since oil isn't as compressible as Freon either.
Lance.
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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