Classic Mustangs List Archive
Oil pump drive shaft dropped in oil pan (D'oh!)
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Apr 7, 1998 04:34 AM
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Mail From: Gary Zimmerman (email redacted)
Bill Meisenheimer wrote:
> Even if you decided to leave the present oil pump drive shaft in the pan, I
> don't think you'd have much luck installing a new shaft from the top. Also,
> the old shaft was missing the retaining ring that keeps this sort of thing
> from happening - you can't install one on the new shaft unless you install it
> from below.
>
> The bottom line is that I think you'll need to pull the pan.
I think that I've gotta agree with Bill on this one. The oil pump
drive shaft has that steel ring attached to it's top end, it's
intended to keep the shaft from pulling up out of the pump when you
pull the distributor. I've seen several Windsor engines with the
shaft installed upside down; rendering the blocking ring (or whatever
the heck it's called) ineffective. It has to bump against the
cast-in block webbing just below the first cam bearing journal.
Since you can't just drop in a new shaft (with the same retaining
ring) from the top, the pan's got to come off. Some of the
heavy-duty oil pump drive shafts don't have the retaining ring and
may be installed from the top, but I'd still rather act out of an
abundance of caution. While the weight of the oil might help keep
that dropped shaft stuck to the bottom of the pan, there's a chance
that the thing could "bounce up" while the car were moving, and it's
not too far from the spinning crank. An outside chance? You bet,
but your engine compartment falls under the jurisdiction of Murphy's
Law, y'know.
Good luck with the repair.
Gary Zimmerman
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Mail From: Gary Zimmerman (email redacted)
Bill Meisenheimer wrote:
> Even if you decided to leave the present oil pump drive shaft in the pan, I
> don't think you'd have much luck installing a new shaft from the top. Also,
> the old shaft was missing the retaining ring that keeps this sort of thing
> from happening - you can't install one on the new shaft unless you install it
> from below.
>
> The bottom line is that I think you'll need to pull the pan.
I think that I've gotta agree with Bill on this one. The oil pump
drive shaft has that steel ring attached to it's top end, it's
intended to keep the shaft from pulling up out of the pump when you
pull the distributor. I've seen several Windsor engines with the
shaft installed upside down; rendering the blocking ring (or whatever
the heck it's called) ineffective. It has to bump against the
cast-in block webbing just below the first cam bearing journal.
Since you can't just drop in a new shaft (with the same retaining
ring) from the top, the pan's got to come off. Some of the
heavy-duty oil pump drive shafts don't have the retaining ring and
may be installed from the top, but I'd still rather act out of an
abundance of caution. While the weight of the oil might help keep
that dropped shaft stuck to the bottom of the pan, there's a chance
that the thing could "bounce up" while the car were moving, and it's
not too far from the spinning crank. An outside chance? You bet,
but your engine compartment falls under the jurisdiction of Murphy's
Law, y'know.
Good luck with the repair.
Gary Zimmerman
------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm
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mailbot
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Apr 7, 1998 08:17 PM
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)
>Bill Meisenheimer wrote:
>
>> Even if you decided to leave the present oil pump drive shaft in the pan, I
>> don't think you'd have much luck installing a new shaft from the top. Also,
>> the old shaft was missing the retaining ring that keeps this sort of thing
>> from happening - you can't install one on the new shaft unless you install it
>> from below.
>>
>> The bottom line is that I think you'll need to pull the pan.
I hate to beat a dead horse, but I just went through the oil pump drive shaft in the oil pan so it is something
that is fresh in my mind. If I were you, I'd pull the pan and remove the old drive shaft. Since most of the
battle is getting the pan off (it can be done with the engine in the car -- at least on a '66 289), I would use
this time to repaint the pan if it needs it and clean out the pan (who knows what else is in there). Make sure
that you purchase a replacement shaft, oil pump to block gasket, oil pump pickup to pump gasket, and oil pan gasket
set. You might even decide to replace the oil pump as they aren't too pricey. The whole job took about half a
day, and you'll rest easier at night knowing your oil pan is clean.
Dave
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All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm
Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)
>Bill Meisenheimer wrote:
>
>> Even if you decided to leave the present oil pump drive shaft in the pan, I
>> don't think you'd have much luck installing a new shaft from the top. Also,
>> the old shaft was missing the retaining ring that keeps this sort of thing
>> from happening - you can't install one on the new shaft unless you install it
>> from below.
>>
>> The bottom line is that I think you'll need to pull the pan.
I hate to beat a dead horse, but I just went through the oil pump drive shaft in the oil pan so it is something
that is fresh in my mind. If I were you, I'd pull the pan and remove the old drive shaft. Since most of the
battle is getting the pan off (it can be done with the engine in the car -- at least on a '66 289), I would use
this time to repaint the pan if it needs it and clean out the pan (who knows what else is in there). Make sure
that you purchase a replacement shaft, oil pump to block gasket, oil pump pickup to pump gasket, and oil pan gasket
set. You might even decide to replace the oil pump as they aren't too pricey. The whole job took about half a
day, and you'll rest easier at night knowing your oil pan is clean.
Dave
------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm
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