Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: Kahn Ishiguro (email redacted)

Just this afternoon, I had a rare and coincidential chance to see a
completely original, red 1970 Boss 302 (no shaker). I was impressed,
and I wish, for what I've put into my '69 fastback, I'd been a little
wiser in rare early model Mustangs and bought one of these Of
course, I farmed out some maintinence work at first, so I can't complain
much. I waited to see the car take off and noticed it being as slow as
mine in 1st gear... then in 2nd, it picked up a bit more, and from there
on....

This raised a couple of questions and/or ideas I've been pondering over
in my Boss 302 engine project. See what you think of them:

Car will have:
-------------
- 3.70 gears w/locker
- "modern" type rotary AC compressor, (hey- it's Florida. To be without
AC most of the year is not a good thing).
- Electronic (MSD or Mallory) ignition.
- 600-650cfm Holley carb
- 10.5:1 compression
- 1970 Boss 302 heads


Okay. Now I know it won't do all that well at RPMs below 3500 or so,
as goes it's high-revving nature. Does anyone have any thoughts on
these mods that are intended to, (hopefully), up the low-end
HP/performance a little? I'm not expecting a lot of improvement, but
I'd like to know how much of a difference these changes might have. And
does anyone know how long the average life of some of this equipment
is? Here they are:

Modification:
------------
- 70-80 psi oil pump (10psi for every 1000RPM scale)
- Dual oil filters (relocated)
- (maybe??) '69 Boss camshaft or one that's got cross-drilled
oiling holes (or was that crankshaft? ARRGH! I have to find that
book...)
- Roller camshaft. Are they good to withstand a 7,000 RPM rev
limit? And are they worth it in an engine like this, anyway?
- Roller rockers? As opposed to solid adjustable valve lifters.
*- Summit adjustable electric fan: 12 volts; 2,300cfm cooling
capacity.
*- CSI electric water pump: 12-volt; 5.8amp; T-6 aluminum; 30
gallons per minute. (heheh... how long will she last before I plunk
another $350 on a new one, I wonder... ;>

*-Tik-Tok system to alternate cooling fan and water pump

- Headers? Or just go with the stock Boss exhaust manifolds?


That's all I've got for now, aside from *good* ground-up building with
as reliable parts as I can afford (spark plug wires, etc.)

Airflow. Yeah, it won't do much for regular street driving, but I want
a functional hood scoop, anyway
I've seen Boss 302 complete shakers from $650-$850, which look like
they have the nice, subtle effect I want. Also, I see that Mr. Gasket
is the company that makes the classic blower scoop. I can't afford a
blower, but the scoop looks nice and costs considerably less than the
original Boss shaker setup.

Three concerns I have:
---------------------
- The Shaker setup looks like it'll seal up allright for rainy weather,
but the Mr. Gasket? Dunno about that one, and since rain isn't uncommon
here and I don't have a garage...

- I like the shaker for it's subtlety. The Gasket scoop, on the other
hand, is quite visible and tells you exactly what it's supposed to do.
Does anyone make a thru-hood scoop that seals well, is subtle and won't
cost as much as an original Ford shaker?

- Spacing a Mr. Gasket without it sticking up a lot, (ie: bottom of
scoop rides hood-level).

Thanks, everyone

-Kahn

1969 FB w/302-2v, C-4 auto

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Mail From: speegle (email redacted)

Kahn Ishiguro wrote:
>
> Just this afternoon, I had a rare and coincidential chance to see a
> completely original, red 1970 Boss 302 (no shaker). I was impressed,
> and I wish, for what I've put into my '69 fastback,............SNIP
>
> This raised a couple of questions and/or ideas I've been pondering over
> in my Boss 302 engine project. See what you think of them:
>
> Car will have:
> -------------
> - 3.70 gears w/locker
> - "modern" type rotary AC compressor, (hey- it's Florida. To be without
> AC most of the year is not a good thing).
> - Electronic (MSD or Mallory) ignition.
> - 600-650cfm Holley carb
> - 10.5:1 compression
> - 1970 Boss 302 heads
>
>
> Okay. Now I know it won't do all that well at RPMs below 3500 or so,
> as goes it's high-revving nature. Does anyone have any thoughts on
> these mods that are intended to, (hopefully), up the low-end
> HP/performance a little? I'm not expecting a lot of improvement, but
> I'd like to know how much of a difference these changes might have. And
> does anyone know how long the average life of some of this equipment
> is? Here they are:
>
> Modification:
> ------------
> - 70-80 psi oil pump (10psi for every 1000RPM scale)
> - Dual oil filters (relocated)

Why?

> - (maybe??) '69 Boss camshaft or one that's got cross-drilled
> oiling holes (or was that crankshaft? ARRGH! I have to find that book...)

Sorry the crank on a 69 Boss was the only thing cross drilled

> - Roller camshaft. Are they good to withstand a 7,000 RPM rev
> limit? And are they worth it in an engine like this, anyway?
> - Roller rockers? As opposed to solid adjustable valve lifters.

Roller will give you more positive cam response and reduce friction.
Roller rockers....same thing.

Solid adjustable lifter????? what are these

SNip
> *- CSI electric water pump: 12-volt; 5.8amp; T-6 aluminum; 30
> gallons per minute. (heheh... how long will she last before I
> plunk another $350 on a new one, I wonder... ;>

Alot of money........ for what 2 hp?


> *-Tik-Tok system to alternate cooling fan and water pump
>
> - Headers? Or just go with the stock Boss exhaust manifolds?

Headers will improve top end performance..... just what you want ;(

(SNIP)
> I've seen Boss 302 complete shakers from $650-$850, which look like
> they have the nice, subtle effect I want. Also, I see that Mr. Gasket
> is the company that makes the classic blower scoop. I can't afford a
> blower, but the scoop looks nice and costs considerably less than the
> original Boss shaker setup.

650-800 for a Shaker. Weren't you considering $350 for a water pump?


> - The Shaker setup looks like it'll seal up allright for rainy weather,
> but the Mr. Gasket? .........................
> Does anyone make a thru-hood scoop that seals well, is subtle and won't
> cost as much as an original Ford shaker?

You can add a fiberglass scoop of any type and make it funtional....
IMHO the fake blower scoops look cheap.

BTW haw much are you spending on this engine total??????

Sorry but I normally don't answer modified questions (leave those to
others

Jeff Speegle
MCA ANHJ
69 Boss .....

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Mustang Research Letter
geocities.com/MotorCity/6473/
Mustang & Shelby research, documentation, and help.
Where sharing with one .. means sharing with all.

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Mail From: Wright, Matthew (email redacted)

Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 01:12:06 -0500
From: Kahn Ishiguro <(email redacted)>
Subject: More, (yes- MORE), questions about Boss 302 performance...
<snip>
> This raised a couple of questions and/or ideas I've been
pondering over
>in my Boss 302 engine project. See what you think of them:

Car will have:
-------------
>- 3.70 gears w/locker
* Use the Ford Traction-Loc (clutch type) not the Detroit
Locker for the street. Also, will this be a stick shift or automatic ?
No problem with the manual trans but if automatic, plan on budgeting for
a quality torque converter and performance transmission.
>- Electronic (MSD or Mallory) ignition.
>- 600-650cfm Holley carb
* Too small for decent top end performance but will be ok for
the street.
>- 10.5:1 compression
* May get by with 92+ octane but camshaft choice will play a
big part.....in other words, if the cam allows lots of low rpm cylinder
pressure, you better carry around lots of 104 Octane Boost!
>- 1970 Boss 302 heads
* At least these have the smaller intake valves.


> Okay. Now I know it won't do all that well at RPMs below 3500
or so,
>as goes it's high-revving nature. Does anyone have any thoughts on
>these mods that are intended to, (hopefully), up the low-end
>HP/performance a little? I'm not expecting a lot of improvement, but
>I'd like to know how much of a difference these changes might have.
And
>does anyone know how long the average life of some of this equipment
>is? Here they are:

> Modification:
------------
>- 70-80 psi oil pump (10psi for every 1000RPM scale)
* Not needed. Buy a good quality stock replacement pump

>- Dual oil filters (relocated)
* Waste of money.

>- (maybe??) '69 Boss camshaft or one that's got cross-drilled

>oiling holes (or was that crankshaft? ARRGH! I have to find that
>book...)
* Uh...it's definitely the crankshaft that get's crossdrilled.
Plenty of
sources for forged cranks, new or used. At 7000 RPM, this isn't a bad
idea
although not really required. A better place to spend money would be on
a
quality set of rods.

>- Roller camshaft. Are they good to withstand a 7,000 RPM rev

>limit? And are they worth it in an engine like this, anyway?
* A hydraulic roller would be hard pressed to hit that rev
limit. A mechanical
roller will have you replacing valve springs every time you stop for
gas. Use a good
solid lifter (non roller) cam from a reputable vendor.....call their
tech support and explain
what you're trying to do....they can provide you with some priceless
info

>- Roller rockers? As opposed to solid adjustable valve lifters.
* Solid adjustable valve lifters ? Sounds like an oxymoron to
me. Roller rockers
would be good.......buy good ones such as Crane, Crower, etc.

>- Summit adjustable electric fan: 12 volts; 2,300cfm cooling

>capacity.
* Use a good mechanical fan and shroud instead. It will cool
much better and last forever.

>- CSI electric water pump: 12-volt; 5.8amp; T-6 aluminum; 30

>gallons per minute. (heheh... how long will she last before I plunk
>another $350 on a new one, I wonder... ;>
* Terrible idea. This is a drag race part only and will not be
cool (pun intended) on the
street.

>-Tik-Tok system to alternate cooling fan and water pump
* This is another drag race only item. Don't even consider
stuff like this.

> Headers? Or just go with the stock Boss exhaust manifolds?
* Let's see.....build a high winding motor and use stock
exhaust manifolds ? Buy a good set
of headers. 351C headers may hang down too low. 302W headers won't
fit. Boss 302 ones
may be hard to find. Don't know.

<snip>

Kahn, it's always good to ask lots of questions. Performance engine
building is neither easy nor straightforward. A much better idea for
you to get your feet wet in the performance game is to do a rebuild on
your current 302. It will be a great learning experience and highly
rewarding. You won't be trying to adapt some funky collection of parts
that will most likely end up at a swap meet. I'm not criticizing, I
just know how *big* projects tend to remain unfinished forever. Your
existing 302 with some mild performance equipment will be a fun, strong
running engine. Do this first, then tackle that Boss headed small
block.

Good Luck,

Matthew Wright
'65
K-Model FB


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