Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Jeff Boone (email redacted)

I am rebuilding the disc brake master cylinder for my 66 convertible.
With some difficulty, I removed the pushrod from the piston and found
that the two were held together by a plastic ring around the end of the
pushrod. The rebuild kit I bought has no retaining ring to replace the
(now defunct) plastic one. Do rebuild kits normally include this? Can I
buy one (or a substitute) somewhere?

Thanks.
--
Jeff Boone Phone: 650-631-4098
NCI Fax: 650-631-4056
1000 Bridge Parkway Email: (email redacted)
Redwood Shores, CA 94065

------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: David J. Hammar (email redacted)

On Fri, 03 Apr 1998 14:09:28 -0800, Jeff Boone <(email redacted)> wrote:
>I am rebuilding the disc brake master cylinder for my 66 convertible.
>With some difficulty, I removed the pushrod from the piston and found
>that the two were held together by a plastic ring around the end of the
>pushrod. The rebuild kit I bought has no retaining ring to replace the
>(now defunct) plastic one. Do rebuild kits normally include this? Can I
>buy one (or a substitute) somewhere?

Jeff, this is a common problem -- the rebuild kits are designed for both
'65 & '66 Master Cylinders -- but that "plastic ring" is only used on 1966
& later models. The replacement currently sold is wire clip, p/n
C7AZ-2B224-A, which will (hopefully) serve the same purpose.
It's available from National Parts Depot (et. al.) as part number 2B224-1
($2.19).

Leaving the clip off (what many rebuilders do) won't cause any great
problems under most circumstances, but does allow the pushrod to pull
completely out of the master cylinder should you hook your foot under the
brake pedal. (Which could leave you without breaks should you do it
accidentally.) (1965 models, of course, used a rubber stop atop the brake
pedal to prevent this -- in 1966 this was removed, and replaced by that
clip inside the master cylinder.)

Hope this helps,
-- Dave H.
hammar.dyn.ml.org/~djhamma
hammar.detour.net/~djhamma


------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: David Stone (email redacted)

Hi All,

Jeff wrote:

>On Fri, 03 Apr 1998 14:09:28 -0800, Jeff Boone <(email redacted)> wrote:
>>I am rebuilding the disc brake master cylinder for my 66 convertible.
>>With some difficulty, I removed the pushrod from the piston and found
>>that the two were held together by a plastic ring around the end of the
>>pushrod. The rebuild kit I bought has no retaining ring to replace the
>>(now defunct) plastic one. Do rebuild kits normally include this? Can I
>>buy one (or a substitute) somewhere?

I thought I would just add what I have done on mine. Last year I
had brake fluid dripping on my shoes so I bought a kit to replace
the seals but upon removing the piston and looking at the
condition of the bore (rusty) I thought I had nothing to lose so I
used 1200 grade and spent time cleaning...fitted the new seals and
bleed the brakes which worked fine for about five months by which
time the rear wheel cylinder started to leak so the car sat in the
garage for about ten months (summer just aound the corner now) so I
ordered new rear wheel cylinders with shoes all round and fitted.

Problem one was that when I nipped the wheels nuts on I could not
turn the wheel. (rear) I discovered that the offside was different
(casting) and measuring the wear decided to order new drums. I
eagerly openend the parcel only to discover that they were the
same. To cut a long story short, I sent the one that I didn't want
(wouldn't fit) but kept the one that did (fitted both sides) and
ordered (part no and make off the one I kept) and got an identical
drum which went on no problem.

Problem two was that it would not bleed and at that point decided
to replace the Master cylinder... get on phone only to be told that
none were in stock but he had a 67/68. Well I went for that and
got a friend (mechanic) who came round and converted from a single
system to a dual and bleed the system (feel much safer) and after
several attemps got brakes. Adjusted the wheels for correct
adjustment but don't like the fact that the brakes come on when
the pedal is fairly low to the floor.

See below:

Spent best part of six hours with the brakes. The 67/68 master
cylinder pushrod is a different length (too short) so I removed
mine which just dropped out and went to do the same on the new
cylinder and guess what...it wouldn't come out due to the fact
that it's pinned into the body of the piston so I changed pistons
and changed over the seals and fitted. Bad mistake. Can't plumb
the new pipes in because we couldn't remove the four way block from
the inner fender. So remove master cylinder to gain access and cut
old pipes off and make new pipes (not me but my friend who has
proper flaring tool) and fitted everything back and bleed and
bleed and hey presto...Brakes. Boy what a relief.

Is this normal because the car does pull up in a straight line and
when the brakes are adjusted (nip and back off) I still have
further pedal travel, more so than the single when it worked.

Any suggestions would be most welcomed.

Anyone else running a 67/78 on their 65/65's

Have a great weekend!

Dave
66 Fastback


------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Rebecca (email redacted)

hi


------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm