Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: Matt Caliri (email redacted)

Hi all,
A friend of mine just gave me his new Edlebrock 289 performer intake
manifold for $50. He was going to put it on his mustang over the
summer, but the car isn't running any more and he needed the money.
My question is, How hard is it to install an intake manifold. Is it
something I can try myself with limited skill and tools, or should I
have a shop do it. I have a good mechanic who will install it for me
for $100, but considering I don't really need a new manifold I'm
having a hard time justifying it.
I was also wondering if I need to use the spacer plate from my old
manifold (stock 4bbl) on the new one. The spacer plate has a vacuum
hose on the back that looks like it is leading to the pcv valve. If I
don't use the spacer plate, the new manifold looks like there is a
vacuum hole on the manifold that would take it's place, but, I'm not
sure. Anyone done this swap and have some advice. I went to the
edlebrock home page and downloaded the instructions, but it doesn't
have any info on the spacer plate. I would like to lose it if possible
because I am afraid I am going to have clearance problems with it on,
and the aftermarket Motorsports air cleaner I have now.
thanks
Matt Caliri
1967 mustang conv 289 auto.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Rick Larson (email redacted)

Matt,
> My question is, How hard is it to install an intake manifold. Is it
> something I can try myself with limited skill and tools, or should I
> have a shop do it. I have a good mechanic who will install it for me
> for $100, but considering I don't really need a new manifold I'm
> having a hard time justifying it.

Back in the mid '70s I took mind off, painted it Ford Blue and put
it back on without any problems. I didn't even have a manual.

I think it was easy.

> I was also wondering if I need to use the spacer plate from my old
> manifold (stock 4bbl) on the new one. The spacer plate has a vacuum
> hose on the back that looks like it is leading to the pcv valve. If I

On my 2bbl carb, the spacer has a top and bottom. Be sure to put it
back on correctly or you will have a big leak.

rick

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: James (email redacted)

It is infact a pretty simple process. I don't know what motor your are
talking about. If it is a big block then it is a little harder, but still
not something you can't do yourself. The best advice is to go get a manual
for your engine and follow it to the word. If it is an alum intake, be sure
to retorque it after it comes up to temp, and again in a couple of days
after install.

----------
> From: Rick Larson <(email redacted)>
> To: Multiple recipients of list <(email redacted)>
> Subject: [CM:3049] Re: Intake manifold.
> Date: Tuesday, April 29, 1997 10:20 AM
>
> Matt,
> > My question is, How hard is it to install an intake manifold. Is
it
> > something I can try myself with limited skill and tools, or should
I
> > have a shop do it. I have a good mechanic who will install it for
me
> > for $100, but considering I don't really need a new manifold I'm
> > having a hard time justifying it.
>
> Back in the mid '70s I took mind off, painted it Ford Blue and put
> it back on without any problems. I didn't even have a manual.
>
> I think it was easy.
>
> > I was also wondering if I need to use the spacer plate from my old

> > manifold (stock 4bbl) on the new one. The spacer plate has a
vacuum
> > hose on the back that looks like it is leading to the pcv valve.
If I
>
> On my 2bbl carb, the spacer has a top and bottom. Be sure to put it
> back on correctly or you will have a big leak.
>
> rick

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Don Daves (email redacted)

You wrote:
>
>It is infact a pretty simple process. . <snip>. . If it is an alum
>intake, be sure to retorque it after it comes up to temp, and again in
>a couple of days after install. . .

A-men to the re-torque! Once, years ago, on our 69' 302 with an
aluminum intake, a vacuum leak developed after 30,000, or so, miles of
use. Sounded like one dead cylinder at idle and moderate throttle, but
ran well at full throttle. All the plugs looked fine. Only clue was
vacuum was low (fluctuated around 14 in.) with no hint of external
leaks. I spent a couple weeks going crazy trying to figure out what
was wrong. Finally, I pulled off the intake (that's when I discovered
the bolts were loose) and found the gasket around #8 intake port had a
chunk missing from the lower edge of the port - down inside the valley
area and impossible to determine without pulling the manifold.

Ever since, I frequently check the manifold bolts on all my cars.

Don Daves <(email redacted)>
Rio Del Mar, CA
65 Sunbeam Tiger (his)
64 1/2 Mustang conv. (hers)
69 Mustang bench-seat coupe (daughters)
69 Ranchero GT390 (mothballed)

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: James (email redacted)

I learned that one the hardway as well. Had a 70 mach w 4bbl clv. Ran
13.7's in the quarter w/slicks and 4.11. Over a period of about a month I
started noticing a power loss. You know, couldn't break em loose from a
roll in 2nd gear. To finally falling on its face when you'd dump the
clutch. Yes, I was really hard on that car. Snapped two 9" rearends in it
at the strip. Anyway, because of cam and exhaust never really noticed an
idle problem. I spent two months trying to figure out what went wrong. 3
carbs later and several rebuilds, I said the hell with it, I am going solid
lift. I was running anti-pumpup hydraulic on a crane fireball. (Nice
hydraulic cam BTW) SO I proceeded to remove the motor. With the engine on
the stand, much to my shock and horror, I removed everyone of the intake
bolts with my fingers. I was 17 then so before everyone laughs to hard, try
to remember being 17. I nearly fell over. It was an elderbrock torquer
(nice intake BTW). I was so mad I convinced myself that I had to put this
car in the high 11's, low 12's to make up for my stupidity. I bought some
really nice solid lifter valve train components and proceeded to raise the
exhaust ports, match the intakes, polish the quenched chambers and then
send to John Hamiltons automotive machine (some of you may know him, I hope
anyway) to have the pedestals machined for screwin studs and adjustable
rockers. After spending some 60 to 80 hours eating cast metal behind a
winding die grinder and dermal tool the SOB cut them wrong. These heads
looked great. I wish I could have flowed them. The chambers were like
mirrors and the ports looked awesome. I was so proud of them. Anyway, I
keep a rocker arm on them. You could not even get a stud girddle to fit
with a sledge hammer. He would not give me my money back, nor would he buy
the heads from me despite telling me how wonderful they were. By the time I
got around to trying to get the car back together it had sat for 2 years
and I ended up trading it (in pieces) for a pace car 79 mustang and
$1000.00 cash. The last time I saw the car it had been totally gutted.
Moral of this story. RETORQUE your intake manifold from time to time.

Regards,
James Lindsay

P.S. Now I have to go sit in my partially restored Boss 302 and dream a
little.
----------
> From: Don Daves <(email redacted)>
> To: Multiple recipients of list <(email redacted)>
> Subject: [CM:3056] Re: Intake manifold.
> Date: Tuesday, April 29, 1997 1:14 PM
>
> You wrote:
> >
> >It is infact a pretty simple process. . <snip>. . If it is an alum
> >intake, be sure to retorque it after it comes up to temp, and again in
> >a couple of days after install. . .
>
> A-men to the re-torque! Once, years ago, on our 69' 302 with an
> aluminum intake, a vacuum leak developed
<Snip>


after 30,000, or so, miles of
> use. Sounded like one dead cylinder at idle and moderate throttle, but
> ran well at full throttle. All the plugs looked fine. Only clue was
> vacuum was low (fluctuated around 14 in.) with no hint of external
> leaks. I spent a couple weeks going crazy trying to figure out what
> was wrong. Finally, I pulled off the intake (that's when I discovered
> the bolts were loose) and found the gasket around #8 intake port had a
> chunk missing from the lower edge of the port - down inside the valley
> area and impossible to determine without pulling the manifold.
>
> Ever since, I frequently check the manifold bolts on all my cars.
>
> Don Daves <(email redacted)>
> Rio Del Mar, CA
> 65 Sunbeam Tiger (his)
> 64 1/2 Mustang conv. (hers)
> 69 Mustang bench-seat coupe (daughters)
> 69 Ranchero GT390 (mothballed)
>
>
>
>