Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: ffacker (Fred Facker)

I noticed a cracked exhaust manifold on my 66 coupe
C-code a couple weeks ago, so I used it as an excuse
to buy the nickel-plated Shelby Tri-Y headers. I also
bought the GT rear valence panel to dual my exhaust
and run it out the back.

First off, any advice on installing the Try-Y's. I
think I'm going to tackle the power steering drop
bracket tonight and the headers sometime next week.

Secondly, any advice on the pros and cons of buying an
exhaust kit and installing it myself versus having a
shop put one together for me? National Parts Depot has
a 2 1/4" dual kit that's made to fit the Tri-Y's, but
I'm wary of these kits because I'm worried they won't
line up with the rear valence right. Another downside
to me putting the kit on myself is that I'll have to
put it together with clamps and then go have a shop
weld it because if I try to weld it myself it will end
up with more holes in it than my rusted-out system has now.

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Mail From: rick (Rick Larson)

Fred,

> Secondly, any advice on the pros and cons of buying an
> exhaust kit and installing it myself versus having a
> shop put one together for me? National Parts Depot has

I found a local shop that specializes in street rods,
customs, ... and happy with the work they did.

It cost less than $300 to remove the old system and install a
welded system (2 1/4"?, H pipe, mandrel bends, dumps out back).
They wouldn't charge extra for the rear valance routing or
headers vs stock manifolds.

You will get various opinions on header bolts from ARP bolts,
to D locking to 'E' clip Stage 8 to cap screws. You will
need 5/8" - 3/4" long 3/8" course thread.

rick
--
Minneapolis

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Mail From: walt.boeninger (Walt Boeninger)



Rick Larson wrote:
>
> You will get various opinions on header bolts from ARP bolts,
> to D locking to 'E' clip Stage 8 to cap screws. You will
> need 5/8" - 3/4" long 3/8" course thread.

...and I highly recommend the ones with 5/16 heads, much
easier to tighten that the standard 3/8. You can get a
6" 5/16 combo wrench and get a box end on every header bolt.

Walt
-----

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Mail From: tderrick (AJ Derrick)

speaking of try-y's...

I'm looking for a set.

any suggestions on brand / supplier??
price range??

for a '66 289- no power steering...

thanks

AJ Derrick
66 Coupe
95 GT




On Thursday, September 4, 2003, at 04:26 PM, Walt Boeninger wrote:

>
>
> Rick Larson wrote:
>> You will get various opinions on header bolts from ARP bolts,
>> to D locking to 'E' clip Stage 8 to cap screws. You will
>> need 5/8" - 3/4" long 3/8" course thread.
>
> ...and I highly recommend the ones with 5/16 heads, much
> easier to tighten that the standard 3/8. You can get a
> 6" 5/16 combo wrench and get a box end on every header bolt.
>
> Walt
> -----
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
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> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>
AJ Derrick
66 Coupe
95 GT