Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: Kathleen Tibbetts (email redacted)


...stuff with blueberries and bake at 425 F until done. (Joke!)

Actually...hello, Mustang friends. I have another baffling electrical
problem I'd like to share, in the hope that this list's seemingly
bottomless well of knowledge can pull me out of the dilemma.

My 1965 289 coupe doesn't want to send fire to the ignition. When I turn
the key to Start, it behaves as it would with a bad relay - I get the
panel lights, but no crank. Trouble is, the relay is new, and I even
tried two separate new relays just to rule that problem out. I have
replaced the ignition switch, to no avail. I also checked the fuses,
just on the off chance - no problem there, either.

I double-checked to be sure everything was wired as it had been, and I
checked the wiring diagrams just to be sure THAT was right. The car turns
over when I use a remote starter switch, so I'm pretty sure I put it back
together correctly.

It's a confusing problem. The only thing I haven't checked is the coil,
but even that is only four months old and not quite due to fail, as far
as I know. Can anyone offer a suggestion as to how to proceed?

I'm grateful, as always, for the wisdom and good cheer of this list!
-- KT

Kathleen Tibbetts
1985 289 coupe


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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)

If you are able to get it to start with an external starter
switch, then apparently the problem is in the wiring from
the ignition to the starter or the ignition coil. Can
you hear the starter do anything? (Haven't had this
problem yet, so I am just guessing here.)

Chuck

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Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)

Kathleen,

Does the engine turn over? If not that is where you
need to start. I'd check the battery charge, the cables
(especially for corrosion), the starter. If it does
turn over it is a completely different story.

I recently had the same thing and took the starter to
NAPA and they were able to test it for me. It was bad,
I replaced it and I got it started.

Good luck,
Dave

On 04/11/99 21:40:27 you wrote:
>My 1965 289 coupe doesn't want to send fire to the
ignition. When I turn
>the key to Start, it behaves as it would with a bad
relay - I get the
>panel lights, but no crank. Trouble is, the relay is
new, and I even
>tried two separate new relays just to rule that problem
out. I have
>replaced the ignition switch, to no avail. I also
checked the fuses,
>just on the off chance - no problem there, either.
>
>I double-checked to be sure everything was wired as it
had been, and I
>checked the wiring diagrams just to be sure THAT was
right. The car turns
>over when I use a remote starter switch, so I'm pretty
sure I put it back
>together correctly.
>
>It's a confusing problem. The only thing I haven't
checked is the coil,
>but even that is only four months old and not quite due
to fail, as far
>as I know. Can anyone offer a suggestion as to how to
proceed?



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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Christopher Maher (email redacted)

Kathleen, shouldn't be too hard to find the problem, it's one of the
simplest circuits there is.
OK, here goes.......Starter solenoid on fender apron, two big terminals, one
small one (or two, S & I, but we'll just concern ourselves with I ).
Positive battery cable to one large terminal, cable to starter motor on the
other. The small wire to the I terminal should get power when you turn the
key to start position (crank). Check with a test light, if you don't get
power there, you probably have a bad wire from the ignition switch, or a bad
ignition switch. The only other thing I can think of if everything else is
ok, is a bad ground. To test this, just take a heavy gauge cable, like a
jumper cable and connect between the negative battery terminal and the
engine block. If the engine cranks, you have a bad negative battery cable
or connection.
Let me know how you make out.

Christopher T. Maher
-----Original Message-----
From: Kathleen Tibbetts <(email redacted)>
To: (email redacted) <(email redacted)>
Date: April 11, 1999 8:38 PM
Subject: [CM:16607] How to make a '65 turn over....?


>
>..stuff with blueberries and bake at 425 F until done. (Joke!)
>
>Actually...hello, Mustang friends. I have another baffling electrical
>problem I'd like to share, in the hope that this list's seemingly
>bottomless well of knowledge can pull me out of the dilemma.
>
>My 1965 289 coupe doesn't want to send fire to the ignition. When I turn
>the key to Start, it behaves as it would with a bad relay - I get the
>panel lights, but no crank. Trouble is, the relay is new, and I even
>tried two separate new relays just to rule that problem out. I have
>replaced the ignition switch, to no avail. I also checked the fuses,
>just on the off chance - no problem there, either.
>
>I double-checked to be sure everything was wired as it had been, and I
>checked the wiring diagrams just to be sure THAT was right. The car turns
>over when I use a remote starter switch, so I'm pretty sure I put it back
>together correctly.
>
>It's a confusing problem. The only thing I haven't checked is the coil,
>but even that is only four months old and not quite due to fail, as far
>as I know. Can anyone offer a suggestion as to how to proceed?
>
>I'm grateful, as always, for the wisdom and good cheer of this list!
>-- KT
>
>Kathleen Tibbetts
>1985 289 coupe
>
>
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>


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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Stang65 (email redacted)

I know it may sound odd, however a buddy of mine and I chased the SAME
problem for two weeks, turned out to be the voltage regulator. Try that if
the other suggestions do not work.

HD



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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Rhockie & Ethan Brown (email redacted)

Try triggering the solenoid manually. I have actually bought bad ones
before.

Ethan
64&1/2 coupe
91 LX 5.0 conv.

Kathleen Tibbetts wrote:

> ..stuff with blueberries and bake at 425 F until done. (Joke!)
>
> Actually...hello, Mustang friends. I have another baffling electrical
> problem I'd like to share, in the hope that this list's seemingly
> bottomless well of knowledge can pull me out of the dilemma.
>
> My 1965 289 coupe doesn't want to send fire to the ignition. When I turn
> the key to Start, it behaves as it would with a bad relay - I get the
> panel lights, but no crank. Trouble is, the relay is new, and I even
> tried two separate new relays just to rule that problem out. I have
> replaced the ignition switch, to no avail. I also checked the fuses,
> just on the off chance - no problem there, either.
>
> I double-checked to be sure everything was wired as it had been, and I
> checked the wiring diagrams just to be sure THAT was right. The car turns
> over when I use a remote starter switch, so I'm pretty sure I put it back
> together correctly.
>
> It's a confusing problem. The only thing I haven't checked is the coil,
> but even that is only four months old and not quite due to fail, as far
> as I know. Can anyone offer a suggestion as to how to proceed?
>
> I'm grateful, as always, for the wisdom and good cheer of this list!
> -- KT
>
> Kathleen Tibbetts
> 1985 289 coupe
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm


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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Farquhar, Robb R (email redacted)

Odd that I had a very similiar problem this weekend. I haven't started my
'66 in about 8 weeks or so. It turns over and actually fires, then after the
initial Vrooooom... it dies. I can't keep it running. It's getting gas, has
spark. Also has a Holly DP, I've heard Holly's don't like to sit. What's the
consensus out there, I'm frustrated.

Robb

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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Mike Altimore (email redacted)

The Holley DP is most liely the problem. I have one on mine and I'm about to
junk it. The "A" code original carb was only about 480cfm and the "K" code was
about 600cfm. I've found that the DP is pumping way too much gas and choking out
the power of the engine. I've had to set the air adjustment screws out 4 turns
to get it running decent. (usual setting is 2.5 turns) I suggest chunking the DP
and going with a Holley 4160 450cfm vacuum secondaries carb. You can get this
with an electric choke option if your DP has elec choke like mine. If you have a
"K" code, the 4160 also comes as a 600cfm.

Mike Altimore
'66 "A" code GT coupe

"Farquhar, Robb R" wrote:

> Odd that I had a very similiar problem this weekend. I haven't started my
> '66 in about 8 weeks or so. It turns over and actually fires, then after the
> initial Vrooooom... it dies. I can't keep it running. It's getting gas, has
> spark. Also has a Holly DP, I've heard Holly's don't like to sit. What's the
> consensus out there, I'm frustrated.
>
> Robb
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm


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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Paul Gerlach (email redacted)

On Mon, 12 Apr 1999, Farquhar, Robb R wrote:

> Odd that I had a very similiar problem this weekend. I haven't started my

It seems we're all weighing in with our starting problems this weekend...
So...

I can manage to get mine to start, and even idle and be happy, then...
chunk, dead stop. No backfire, no coughing, just stop. This makes me
think it's electrical, but no luck finding where yet. Any suggestions on
what pieces are still involved in ignition after starting?

Is it Alternator -> voltage regulator -> ignition switch -> coil -> cap ?
Is that right? My best guess is perhaps an occasional short in any of the
above could drop the ignition immediately.

The points did look a little pitted, so thought I'd do a shotgun attempt and
replace points & condensor - parts store gave me the wrong points though
so now I have to wait until I can get back there, but there's taxes to be
done, etc.

BTW went to the first show of the year, Portland Swap Meet. Very motivational.
It always amazes me how many funky & cool looking cars are restored
around this city - makes me think I should lift my head up occasionally
from looking at Mustangs all the time. Sorry. :-)


P

--
Paul M Gerlach (email redacted)
ADG, MBD (503) 627-2140
Tektronix, Inc. MS 39-515 (2ndFloor-D3)
Beaverton, OR



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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Paul Gerlach (email redacted)

On Mon, 12 Apr 1999, Paul Gerlach wrote:

> On Mon, 12 Apr 1999, Farquhar, Robb R wrote:
>
> > Odd that I had a very similiar problem this weekend. I haven't started my
>
> It seems we're all weighing in with our starting problems this weekend...
> So...
>
> I can manage to get mine to start, and even idle and be happy, then...
> chunk, dead stop. No backfire, no coughing, just stop. This makes me
> think it's electrical, but no luck finding where yet. Any suggestions on
> what pieces are still involved in ignition after starting?
>
> The points did look a little pitted, so thought I'd do a shotgun attempt and
> replace points & condensor - parts store gave me the wrong points though
> so now I have to wait until I can get back there, but there's taxes to be
> done, etc.

In the spirit of giving as well as asking, perhaps this will help someone.
(And I'm really happy that it worked...)

It was the condensor. Replaced it and it ran fine, in fact ran much smoother.
It must have been on the ragged edge of stopping all the time.

Working for a test & measurement company allowed me to hook a scope up to
it (+coil), trouble was I didn't know what it was *supposed* to look like!
Now that I've seen the before and after however, I understand what I was seeing.
(Typical Engineering statement: "Well of course it didn't work! It's
obvious...now"


So lesson learned, when in doubt, replace the $3 parts before spending many
weekends pulling hair and not driving your cool car.

P

--
Paul M Gerlach (email redacted)
ADG, MBD (503) 627-2140
Tektronix, Inc. MS 39-515 (2ndFloor-D3)
Beaverton, OR



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