Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: benw (Ben Witso)

Hi All,
I'm moving along with a few things on the new 65 coupe and found an
exhaust leak at the manifold (200-6 Cyl). I'm assuming it's some
loose bolts and/or a bad gasket. I've been warned about being careful
removing and then re-torquing the bolts as to not break any of the
bolt thread "ears" on the head. I'm figuring I want to soak them
pretty good with penetrating oil before trying to remove them, or is
there something better (or is it not necessary)? Is there a brand of
penetrating oil that works better than others? Also does it break
down with age? I have several cans that are probably 20 to 25 years old.

TIA for your help!
Ben

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Mail From: mkupec (Michael J. Kupec)

Go buy a new can of PB Blaster - throw the rest away since IMO it seems they
change the formulation of PB every few years and it just seems to get better
and better! (either that or I'm just getting better at not breaking bolts
off after spraying them with PB!)

Definitely let the stuff soak, at least over night and prefably for a few
days. It's myunderstanding that early six parts are starting to get real
hard to find in the yards. A fellow early Bronco owner had a hard time
finding a new head for his son's 68 Bronco's 160 six when he discovered the
original was cracked.

Michael J. Kupec
(email redacted)
blueovalcorral.com

Frodo failed...
Bush has the ring!


> -----Original Message-----
> From: (email redacted)
> [mailtoemail redacted)] On
> Behalf Of Ben Witso
> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 5:32 PM
> To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
> Subject: [CM] Exhaust Manifold Removal - Penetrating Oil
> Recommendations
>
> Hi All,
> I'm moving along with a few things on the new 65 coupe and
> found an exhaust leak at the manifold (200-6 Cyl). I'm
> assuming it's some loose bolts and/or a bad gasket. I've been
> warned about being careful removing and then re-torquing the
> bolts as to not break any of the bolt thread "ears" on the
> head. I'm figuring I want to soak them pretty good with
> penetrating oil before trying to remove them, or is there
> something better (or is it not necessary)? Is there a brand
> of penetrating oil that works better than others? Also does
> it break down with age? I have several cans that are probably
> 20 to 25 years old.
>
> TIA for your help!
> Ben
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>

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Mail From: mltraver (Michael Traver)

A friend of mine worked at International Truck in Chicago and SOP for
the old mechanics at the shop there was to spray whatever rusted
together parts they had with a product called Kroil
(kanolabs.com/). I bought a can of it and used it while
removing the fuel tank from a rust-encrusted Toyota truck. It worked
pretty well for me.

As usual, I'm not affiliated with Kano labs, don't own stock, blah,
blah, blah...

-Michael


Ben Witso wrote:
> Hi All,
> I'm moving along with a few things on the new 65 coupe and found an
> exhaust leak at the manifold (200-6 Cyl). I'm assuming it's some loose
> bolts and/or a bad gasket. I've been warned about being careful
> removing and then re-torquing the bolts as to not break any of the
> bolt thread "ears" on the head. I'm figuring I want to soak them
> pretty good with penetrating oil before trying to remove them, or is
> there something better (or is it not necessary)? Is there a brand of
> penetrating oil that works better than others? Also does it break down
> with age? I have several cans that are probably 20 to 25 years old.
>
> TIA for your help!
> Ben
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>

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Mail From: W427 (David)

I have used many penetrating oils and solvents in the past and the one
thing that has made all of them work better for me is vibrations. While
soaking the joint or threads an occasional tapping to send vibrations
through the parts helps a lot. Hammering is not the idea - just various
light and moderate tapping to make vibrations through the joint. It
seems to help break the rust particles and blend them into a sludgy soup
that moves easier when the wrench is applied.

FWIW,
David