Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: Jonathan Plummer (email redacted)

Yet another problem/question...

The other day I my emergency brake cable came off of the pulley next to the
fire wall and wedged itself between the pully supports and the pulley.
Essentially
locking the back brakes. I loosened the equalizer bar and was able to
extract
the cable. I decided the reason this happened was that the cable wasn't
tight
enough when disengaged, allowing enough slack for the cable to kind of bend
to the right of the pulley. This meant that the next time I set the parking
brake it
might hit the pulley it might not. So I did the most logical thing, I
tightened the
parking brake cables.

Jumped in the car last night for a quick spin only to hear thumping noise
that
corresponded to the speed of the car. Crawled under to find I had tightened
the
cable enough that it could/did slightly rub the driveshaft. Is the cable
supposed
to run that close to the driveshaft? Isn't the cable supposed to stay
"tight" when
disengaged? I think I've probably got the cable tightened to far at the bar,
but
isn't there something that is supposed to take the slack out of the cable
when you
disengage the hand pull? What is that and how do I adjust it? Are the rear
brakes
not retracting far enough? I just rebuilt all the wheel cylinders, rebuilt
the master
cylinder, flushed the lines with new brake fluid, bleed the lines, turned
the drums,
replaced the pads, etc. Help?!

FYI The brakes are all still drum, and I am using the original "jelly jar"
style
master cylinder.

TIA,
Jonathan
64 1/2 Convertible


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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Damien Cailliau (email redacted)

My turn to give a little piece of info. I faced almost the same problem :
either the cable was too tight and touched the drive shaft or too loose and
wouldn't block the wheels.
I realized that the spring that allow the system to swing back when
released (it's by the trans, if i remember, attached to the right side of
the frame) was rusted, certainly too short (broken and attached back with
regular metal wire, as is) and wouldn't keep the y-shape cable where
supposed to. Changing it slightly improved, although i might not have found
the convenient size/strength for the spring.

Damien

At 10:41 04/10/99 -0300, you wrote:
>Yet another problem/question...
>
>The other day I my emergency brake cable came off of the pulley next to the
>fire wall and wedged itself between the pully supports and the pulley.
>Essentially
>locking the back brakes. I loosened the equalizer bar and was able to
>extract
>the cable. I decided the reason this happened was that the cable wasn't
>tight
>enough when disengaged, allowing enough slack for the cable to kind of bend
>to the right of the pulley. This meant that the next time I set the parking
>brake it
>might hit the pulley it might not. So I did the most logical thing, I
>tightened the
>parking brake cables.
>
>Jumped in the car last night for a quick spin only to hear thumping noise
>that
>corresponded to the speed of the car. Crawled under to find I had tightened
>the
>cable enough that it could/did slightly rub the driveshaft. Is the cable
>supposed
>to run that close to the driveshaft? Isn't the cable supposed to stay
>"tight" when
>disengaged? I think I've probably got the cable tightened to far at the bar,
>but
>isn't there something that is supposed to take the slack out of the cable
>when you
>disengage the hand pull? What is that and how do I adjust it? Are the rear
>brakes
>not retracting far enough? I just rebuilt all the wheel cylinders, rebuilt
>the master
>cylinder, flushed the lines with new brake fluid, bleed the lines, turned
>the drums,
>replaced the pads, etc. Help?!
>
>FYI The brakes are all still drum, and I am using the original "jelly jar"
>style
>master cylinder.
>
>TIA,
>Jonathan
>64 1/2 Convertible
>
>
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>All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm
>

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All the list info you'll ever want: antler.moose.to/~server/cm