Classic Mustangs List Archive
Cross Member Bolt Torque
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Mail From: dano (Dan O'Reilly)
On a '66 coupe, does anybody know the torque setting for the 2 engine
compartment cross-member mounting bolts?
---
Dan O'Reilly
1966 Nightmist Blue Pony Coupe
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO
Mail From: dano (Dan O'Reilly)
On a '66 coupe, does anybody know the torque setting for the 2 engine
compartment cross-member mounting bolts?
---
Dan O'Reilly
1966 Nightmist Blue Pony Coupe
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO
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Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)
On Mar 16, 2006, at 6:22 AM, Dan O'Reilly wrote:
> On a '66 coupe, does anybody know the torque setting for the 2
> engine compartment cross-member mounting bolts?
I assume you mean the cross member that runs underneath the oil pan?
If I recall correctly its 80-85lb/ft. I got this figure from a
Mustangs and Fords article since neither shop manual (Haynes,
Chilton) had it. I'm pretty sure it was their article about doing the
flaming river steering gearbox swap though it could have been one
about installing headers or a 351 swap.
Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)
On Mar 16, 2006, at 6:22 AM, Dan O'Reilly wrote:
> On a '66 coupe, does anybody know the torque setting for the 2
> engine compartment cross-member mounting bolts?
I assume you mean the cross member that runs underneath the oil pan?
If I recall correctly its 80-85lb/ft. I got this figure from a
Mustangs and Fords article since neither shop manual (Haynes,
Chilton) had it. I'm pretty sure it was their article about doing the
flaming river steering gearbox swap though it could have been one
about installing headers or a 351 swap.
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mailbot
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., Online, USA
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Topic Creator (OP)
Mar 16, 2006 12:41 PM
Joined 15 years ago
59,279 Posts
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Mail From: dano (Dan O'Reilly)
That's the one, thanks!
By the way, I'm just finishing up my total suspension rebuild. This is
being done with stock OEM-type parts, as this is a factory stock
restoration. When I first started restoring the car, I had replaced the
shocks all around (the ones on it were worn-out junk), they were already done.
A month or so ago, I started with the rear leaf springs (a HUGE improvement
in ride & handling). That showed just how far off of the correct ride
height the front was. So, I had the front springs changed (I started it
but just couldn't get the springs compressed correctly, and didn't want to
really screw something - like me - up) and new perches put in. That in
itself was another major ride improvement. Last night, I did the lower
control arms (the uppers had evidently been changed several years ago and
were fine), the strut bushings and the sway bar end links & bushings. I
expect another big improvement in handling from all that. Man, after 40
years were those bushings cruddy and shot! The LCA's were both shot; the
bushings were nearly totally rotted away on one of them (almost no rubber
left), and both ball joint boots had dried out, cracked & then exploded
when over-filled with grease. I must have cleaned a pound or two of
petrified grease/road crud off of the spindle and backing plate on the
driver's side.
I tell ya, she's getting VERY fun to drive now at highway speeds, now that
the suspension is back up to snuff. Before, things were so loosey-goosey
that it was a pig above 60mph (and didn't particularly handle all that well
when cornering at lower speeds, for that matter). In fact, I had been
rethinking my choice of OE-style bias-ply tires because of the sloppy
handling. However, now that things are tight, those tires are just fine
for what I do.
At 09:20 AM 3/16/2006, Brandon Peskin wrote:
>On Mar 16, 2006, at 6:22 AM, Dan O'Reilly wrote:
>
>>On a '66 coupe, does anybody know the torque setting for the 2
>>engine compartment cross-member mounting bolts?
>
>I assume you mean the cross member that runs underneath the oil pan?
>If I recall correctly its 80-85lb/ft. I got this figure from a
>Mustangs and Fords article since neither shop manual (Haynes,
>Chilton) had it. I'm pretty sure it was their article about doing the
>flaming river steering gearbox swap though it could have been one
>about installing headers or a 351 swap.
---
Dan O'Reilly
1966 Nightmist Blue Pony Coupe
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO
Mail From: dano (Dan O'Reilly)
That's the one, thanks!
By the way, I'm just finishing up my total suspension rebuild. This is
being done with stock OEM-type parts, as this is a factory stock
restoration. When I first started restoring the car, I had replaced the
shocks all around (the ones on it were worn-out junk), they were already done.
A month or so ago, I started with the rear leaf springs (a HUGE improvement
in ride & handling). That showed just how far off of the correct ride
height the front was. So, I had the front springs changed (I started it
but just couldn't get the springs compressed correctly, and didn't want to
really screw something - like me - up) and new perches put in. That in
itself was another major ride improvement. Last night, I did the lower
control arms (the uppers had evidently been changed several years ago and
were fine), the strut bushings and the sway bar end links & bushings. I
expect another big improvement in handling from all that. Man, after 40
years were those bushings cruddy and shot! The LCA's were both shot; the
bushings were nearly totally rotted away on one of them (almost no rubber
left), and both ball joint boots had dried out, cracked & then exploded
when over-filled with grease. I must have cleaned a pound or two of
petrified grease/road crud off of the spindle and backing plate on the
driver's side.
I tell ya, she's getting VERY fun to drive now at highway speeds, now that
the suspension is back up to snuff. Before, things were so loosey-goosey
that it was a pig above 60mph (and didn't particularly handle all that well
when cornering at lower speeds, for that matter). In fact, I had been
rethinking my choice of OE-style bias-ply tires because of the sloppy
handling. However, now that things are tight, those tires are just fine
for what I do.
At 09:20 AM 3/16/2006, Brandon Peskin wrote:
>On Mar 16, 2006, at 6:22 AM, Dan O'Reilly wrote:
>
>>On a '66 coupe, does anybody know the torque setting for the 2
>>engine compartment cross-member mounting bolts?
>
>I assume you mean the cross member that runs underneath the oil pan?
>If I recall correctly its 80-85lb/ft. I got this figure from a
>Mustangs and Fords article since neither shop manual (Haynes,
>Chilton) had it. I'm pretty sure it was their article about doing the
>flaming river steering gearbox swap though it could have been one
>about installing headers or a 351 swap.
---
Dan O'Reilly
1966 Nightmist Blue Pony Coupe
2002 Black Deluxe Convertible
Colorado Springs, CO
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