Classic Mustangs List Archive
Cowl hats and body dip
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Mail From: Jeff Boone (email redacted)
I have my 66 convertible stripped to the bone and have had a good look
at the cowl hats. They appear to be structurally intact with some
surface rust. I would like to apply some treatment to them like
corroless paint and a sealer around the outer base.
I can *almost* reach up from the inside and apply the stuff, but I think
it would be much easier if I cut about 1/2" off the top of the hat with
my cut-off wheel. Has anybody tried this before? Would I be asking for
flood water to come through the cowl if I remove the top 1/2"? I really
don't want to open up the entire cowl area to get to these.
On a related note, I plan to have the entire body dipped in paint
remover which will leave bare metal. The place where I'm getting it
dipped does not have a way of dipping in a primer solution, so any
"hidden" metal (like the cowl area) will be very difficult to prime.
Anyone have any experience/suggestions in this area?
Thanks.
--
Jeff Boone Phone: 650-631-4098
NCI Fax: 650-631-4056
1000 Bridge Parkway Email: (email redacted)
Redwood Shores, CA 94065
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Mail From: Jeff Boone (email redacted)
I have my 66 convertible stripped to the bone and have had a good look
at the cowl hats. They appear to be structurally intact with some
surface rust. I would like to apply some treatment to them like
corroless paint and a sealer around the outer base.
I can *almost* reach up from the inside and apply the stuff, but I think
it would be much easier if I cut about 1/2" off the top of the hat with
my cut-off wheel. Has anybody tried this before? Would I be asking for
flood water to come through the cowl if I remove the top 1/2"? I really
don't want to open up the entire cowl area to get to these.
On a related note, I plan to have the entire body dipped in paint
remover which will leave bare metal. The place where I'm getting it
dipped does not have a way of dipping in a primer solution, so any
"hidden" metal (like the cowl area) will be very difficult to prime.
Anyone have any experience/suggestions in this area?
Thanks.
--
Jeff Boone Phone: 650-631-4098
NCI Fax: 650-631-4056
1000 Bridge Parkway Email: (email redacted)
Redwood Shores, CA 94065
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Oct 24, 1997 05:23 PM
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Mail From: Chris Russell (email redacted)
Jeff,
Responses below...
> I have my 66 convertible stripped to the bone and have had a good look
> at the cowl hats. They appear to be structurally intact with some
> surface rust. I would like to apply some treatment to them like
> corroless paint and a sealer around the outer base.
This is a good idea.
> I can *almost* reach up from the inside and apply the stuff, but I think
> it would be much easier if I cut about 1/2" off the top of the hat with
> my cut-off wheel. Has anybody tried this before? Would I be asking for
> flood water to come through the cowl if I remove the top 1/2"? I really
> don't want to open up the entire cowl area to get to these.
Since you are stripping your car down completely, you will have the
fenders off. You can cut access holes into the sides of the cowl
area... this will allow you to get in there and clean out stuff and
hopefully seal and prime somewhat... After you are done you weld
and/or rivet the hole shut and seal it up good. I've never actually
done this my self, just read about it...but it seems like a good
compromise compared to the time and expense to remove the entire cowl
panel. It doesn't allow for perfect access though, but better than
what you will get just trying to go throught he vent holes...
> On a related note, I plan to have the entire body dipped in paint
> remover which will leave bare metal. The place where I'm getting it
> dipped does not have a way of dipping in a primer solution, so any
> "hidden" metal (like the cowl area) will be very difficult to prime.
> Anyone have any experience/suggestions in this area?
In general I would discourage the dipping of a mustang (or similar
unit-body car). I've heard of too many bad experiences of the solvent
creaping out of seems forever, plus you will be removing all the
various sealers and such that were used at assembly time which will be
difficult if not impossible to replace completely. I'm pretty sure
that Ford used sealer and primer/paint on areas of the sheetmetal
before it was welded together... Why not take the car to a place that
can strip the entire extrior surfaces of the body with a media
blaster, or do the work yourself with paint stripper and a DA sander
and elbow grease...
I've never had a car dipped though (although I have stripped a few
cars down to bare metal the "old fashioned" way, so I'm only going on
2nd hand knowledge and what I have read here on the list before...
...Chris
--
Christopher L. Russell Sr. Software Engineer -- Schlumberger ATE
email
email redacted) WWW: cs-students.stanford.edu/~chrisr
Work:408-437-5185,800-538-6838 x5185 Home:408-296-7582 Page:408-237-1922
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Mail From: Chris Russell (email redacted)
Jeff,
Responses below...
> I have my 66 convertible stripped to the bone and have had a good look
> at the cowl hats. They appear to be structurally intact with some
> surface rust. I would like to apply some treatment to them like
> corroless paint and a sealer around the outer base.
This is a good idea.
> I can *almost* reach up from the inside and apply the stuff, but I think
> it would be much easier if I cut about 1/2" off the top of the hat with
> my cut-off wheel. Has anybody tried this before? Would I be asking for
> flood water to come through the cowl if I remove the top 1/2"? I really
> don't want to open up the entire cowl area to get to these.
Since you are stripping your car down completely, you will have the
fenders off. You can cut access holes into the sides of the cowl
area... this will allow you to get in there and clean out stuff and
hopefully seal and prime somewhat... After you are done you weld
and/or rivet the hole shut and seal it up good. I've never actually
done this my self, just read about it...but it seems like a good
compromise compared to the time and expense to remove the entire cowl
panel. It doesn't allow for perfect access though, but better than
what you will get just trying to go throught he vent holes...
> On a related note, I plan to have the entire body dipped in paint
> remover which will leave bare metal. The place where I'm getting it
> dipped does not have a way of dipping in a primer solution, so any
> "hidden" metal (like the cowl area) will be very difficult to prime.
> Anyone have any experience/suggestions in this area?
In general I would discourage the dipping of a mustang (or similar
unit-body car). I've heard of too many bad experiences of the solvent
creaping out of seems forever, plus you will be removing all the
various sealers and such that were used at assembly time which will be
difficult if not impossible to replace completely. I'm pretty sure
that Ford used sealer and primer/paint on areas of the sheetmetal
before it was welded together... Why not take the car to a place that
can strip the entire extrior surfaces of the body with a media
blaster, or do the work yourself with paint stripper and a DA sander
and elbow grease...
I've never had a car dipped though (although I have stripped a few
cars down to bare metal the "old fashioned" way, so I'm only going on
2nd hand knowledge and what I have read here on the list before...
...Chris
--
Christopher L. Russell Sr. Software Engineer -- Schlumberger ATE
email redacted) WWW: cs-students.stanford.edu/~chrisrWork:408-437-5185,800-538-6838 x5185 Home:408-296-7582 Page:408-237-1922
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Oct 26, 1997 08:09 PM
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Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)
Jeff Boone wrote:
>On a related note, I plan to have the entire body dipped in paint
>remover which will leave bare metal. The place where I'm getting it
>dipped does not have a way of dipping in a primer solution, so any
>"hidden" metal (like the cowl area) will be very difficult to prime.
>Anyone have any experience/suggestions in this area?
Before I had my car painted, I looked into sandblasting, plastic media
blasting, and dipping. One painter told me about a "friend" that had a '65
GT350 dipped and repainted white. After about a month, black undercoating
and solvents began to leech out of the seams of the car, ruining his
freshly painted car. He said that those solvents continued to come out for
months afterwards. Before I would commit to dipping, I would ask (the
"dipper"
whether you should worry about the above condition. (and perhaps
if there is a guarantee covering it) My $.02.
Jeff Kennard... (email redacted)
'69 Mach I SCJ
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Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)
Jeff Boone wrote:
>On a related note, I plan to have the entire body dipped in paint
>remover which will leave bare metal. The place where I'm getting it
>dipped does not have a way of dipping in a primer solution, so any
>"hidden" metal (like the cowl area) will be very difficult to prime.
>Anyone have any experience/suggestions in this area?
Before I had my car painted, I looked into sandblasting, plastic media
blasting, and dipping. One painter told me about a "friend" that had a '65
GT350 dipped and repainted white. After about a month, black undercoating
and solvents began to leech out of the seams of the car, ruining his
freshly painted car. He said that those solvents continued to come out for
months afterwards. Before I would commit to dipping, I would ask (the
"dipper"
whether you should worry about the above condition. (and perhapsif there is a guarantee covering it) My $.02.
Jeff Kennard... (email redacted)
'69 Mach I SCJ
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mailbot
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Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 29, 1997 01:37 PM
Joined 15 years ago
59,279 Posts
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Judy Burr (email redacted)
At 07:30 PM 10/24/97 -0300, you wrote:
You can cut access holes into the sides of the cowl
>area... this will allow you to get in there and clean out stuff and
>hopefully seal and prime somewhat... After you are done you weld
>and/or rivet the hole shut and seal it up good.
This is what the body shop did with my cars, It is just something you must
attend to because of the poor design. The plastic cowl covers are a good
idea after all that restoring.
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Mail From: Judy Burr (email redacted)
At 07:30 PM 10/24/97 -0300, you wrote:
You can cut access holes into the sides of the cowl
>area... this will allow you to get in there and clean out stuff and
>hopefully seal and prime somewhat... After you are done you weld
>and/or rivet the hole shut and seal it up good.
This is what the body shop did with my cars, It is just something you must
attend to because of the poor design. The plastic cowl covers are a good
idea after all that restoring.
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archive please visit:
antler.webworks.ca/cm
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mailbot
Mail List Archive Bot
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Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 29, 1997 01:30 PM
Joined 15 years ago
59,279 Posts
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Judy Burr (email redacted)
I have done two Mustangs and had them stripped to bare metal.
Dipping is a new one to me. Are you dipping in paint also? There maybe
places that a spray gun wouldn't cover. Stripping to bare metal makes the
car ver vunderable to rust. I would worry about remover in the joints and
not getting new paint in the joints. Hope each piece is done individually.
At 06:00 PM 10/24/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>On a related note, I plan to have the entire body dipped in paint
>remover which will leave bare metal. The place where I'm getting it
>dipped does not have a way of dipping in a primer solution, so any
>"hidden" metal (like the cowl area) will be very difficult to prime.
>Anyone have any experience/suggestions in this area?
>
>Thanks.
>
>--
>Jeff Boone Phone: 650-631-4098
>NCI Fax: 650-631-4056
>1000 Bridge Parkway Email: (email redacted)
>Redwood Shores, CA 94065
>
>
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------
>For information on Subscribing and Unsubscribing as well as a list
>archive please visit:
>
> antler.webworks.ca/cm
>
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------
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antler.webworks.ca/cm
Mail From: Judy Burr (email redacted)
I have done two Mustangs and had them stripped to bare metal.
Dipping is a new one to me. Are you dipping in paint also? There maybe
places that a spray gun wouldn't cover. Stripping to bare metal makes the
car ver vunderable to rust. I would worry about remover in the joints and
not getting new paint in the joints. Hope each piece is done individually.
At 06:00 PM 10/24/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>On a related note, I plan to have the entire body dipped in paint
>remover which will leave bare metal. The place where I'm getting it
>dipped does not have a way of dipping in a primer solution, so any
>"hidden" metal (like the cowl area) will be very difficult to prime.
>Anyone have any experience/suggestions in this area?
>
>Thanks.
>
>--
>Jeff Boone Phone: 650-631-4098
>NCI Fax: 650-631-4056
>1000 Bridge Parkway Email: (email redacted)
>Redwood Shores, CA 94065
>
>
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------
>For information on Subscribing and Unsubscribing as well as a list
>archive please visit:
>
> antler.webworks.ca/cm
>
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------
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archive please visit:
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