Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: David L. Burkhead (email redacted)

These are, perhaps, real "bonehead" newbie type questions but folk here
have been good about answering my others so. . . .

By way of background--most of my engine work in the past has been
on motorcycles. I'm good with tools and measuring instruments and have
experience with many of the workings of I.C.E's, but the specifics of
large, multi-cylinder engines are new to me. The Harris Manual I have
for my Mustang also seems to assume some knowledge that I don't have.

First: in an automatic transmission, how do you rotate the
engine. It seems like no one short of Arnvester Schwarstalone could do
it just by twisting on the belt pully up front (I know I can't). The
book says that the easiest way is to put the car in gear and inch it
along--so long as you don't have an automatic transmission. Well, guess
which I have. (Motorcycles I worked on had a nut you could turn with
wrench to rotate the crankshaft.)

Second: where do you read the timing indication from. The book
made reference to reading the timing marks for initial static timing but
I didn't see where it said where you could read them.

Third: the last person to work on this engine had left both the
distributor and the vacuum advance mechanism attached to it loose (bolts
not properly tightened down) and both have slipped slightly in
position. I think I know how to handle the distributor body based on
the directions for initial static timing but not sure what to do about
the vacuum advance mechanism short of taking it into a shop to have the
car professionally tuned up.

Finally: The car has a minor problem ("minor" since I don't drag)
in that if you punch the gas hard there's a stacatto "popping" sound
from the exhaust and a loss of power (but no problem for more gradual
acceleration). Only other engine problem is "cold bloodedness" in that
it doesn't like to run at idle until the engine is thoroughly warmed up
(requiring several minutes at 1500-2000 RPM even in 90+ degree
weather). Would the problem with shifted distributor position and
vacuum advance mechanism--possibly combined with worn points and/or bad
condenser (which I also have reason to be the case) be a likely culprit
for this problem?

Thank you folks for your time. This really is a great list.

--
David L. Burkhead "If I had eight hours to
Advanced Surface Microscopy, Inc. cut down a tree, I'd spend
mailtoemail redacted) seven sharpening my axe,"
Abraham Lincoln
disclaimer: none of the opinions in this message are necessarily
those of ASM, Inc.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Michael Melson (email redacted)

David L. Burkhead wrote:
>
> These are, perhaps, real "bonehead" newbie type questions but folk here
> have been good about answering my others so. . . .
>
> By way of background--most of my engine work in the past has been
> on motorcycles. I'm good with tools and measuring instruments and have
> experience with many of the workings of I.C.E's, but the specifics of
> large, multi-cylinder engines are new to me. The Harris Manual I have
> for my Mustang also seems to assume some knowledge that I don't have.
FISRT THINGS FIRST, GET A FORD SHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR.
> First: in an automatic transmission, how do you rotate the
> engine. It seems like no one short of Arnvester Schwarstalone could do
> it just by twisting on the belt pully up front (I know I can't). The
> book says that the easiest way is to put the car in gear and inch it
> along--so long as you don't have an automatic transmission. Well, guess
> which I have. (Motorcycles I worked on had a nut you could turn with
> wrench to rotate the crankshaft.)
YOU CAN EITHER BUMP IT AROUND WITH THE STARTER, YOU CAN PUT A SOCKET ON
THE DAMPNER BOLT (EASIER WITH SPARK PLUGS OUT0, OR THERE IS A SPECIAL
TOOL MADE FOR TURNING THE FLYWHEEL.
> Second: where do you read the timing indication from. The book
> made reference to reading the timing marks for initial static timing but
> I didn't see where it said where you could read them.
YOU DIDN'T SPECIFY WHICH ENGINE YOU HAVE, BUT GENERALLY THERE IS A
POINTER ON THE TIMING COVER.
> Third: the last person to work on this engine had left both the
> distributor and the vacuum advance mechanism attached to it loose (bolts
> not properly tightened down) and both have slipped slightly in
> position. I think I know how to handle the distributor body based on
> the directions for initial static timing but not sure what to do about
> the vacuum advance mechanism short of taking it into a shop to have the
> car professionally tuned up.
THE ADVANCE SHOULD NOT BE A PROBLEM, IF MEMORY SERVES CORRECTLY, TO
ADJUST THE ADVANCE YOU HAVE TO INSERT AN ALLEN WRENCH INTO THE VACUUM
NIPPLE AND TURN. SO YOU SHOULD JUST BE ABLE TO TIGHTEN THE ADVANCE DOWN
WITHOUT MAKING ANY DIFFERENCE IN ENGINE OPERATION.
> Finally: The car has a minor problem ("minor" since I don't drag)
> in that if you punch the gas hard there's a stacatto "popping" sound
> from the exhaust and a loss of power (but no problem for more gradual
> acceleration). Only other engine problem is "cold bloodedness" in that
> it doesn't like to run at idle until the engine is thoroughly warmed up
> (requiring several minutes at 1500-2000 RPM even in 90+ degree
> weather). Would the problem with shifted distributor position and
> vacuum advance mechanism--possibly combined with worn points and/or bad
> condenser (which I also have reason to be the case) be a likely culprit
> for this problem?
I'D SAY YOU NEED A CARB REBUILD AND ELECTRONIC IGNITION. SOUNDS LIKE
YOU CAN HANDLE THE CARB YOURSELF,FOR THE IGN IF YOU WANT STOCK LOOKS, GO
W/ PERTRONIX. IF YOU DON'T CARE ABOUT STOCK LOOKS, USE A DURASPARK II.
BILL LEWIS HAS INFO ON HIS SITE. wrljet.com
> Thank you folks for your time. This really is a great list.
JUST FOR THE RECORD, I WOULD'NT CONSIDER THESE BONE HEAD QUESTIONS. DID
YOU EVER FIND A BUIDSHEET OR BUCK TAG?
MIKE
> --
> David L. Burkhead "If I had eight hours to
> Advanced Surface Microscopy, Inc. cut down a tree, I'd spend
> mailtoemail redacted) seven sharpening my axe,"
> Abraham Lincoln
> disclaimer: none of the opinions in this message are necessarily
> those of ASM, Inc.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: David L. Burkhead (email redacted)

Michael Melson wrote:

[ 8< ]

> FISRT THINGS FIRST, GET A FORD SHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR.

On the list of things to get. Not sure where though.

> > First: in an automatic transmission, how do you rotate the
> > engine. It seems like no one short of Arnvester Schwarstalone could do
> > it just by twisting on the belt pully up front (I know I can't). The
> > book says that the easiest way is to put the car in gear and inch it
> > along--so long as you don't have an automatic transmission. Well, guess
> > which I have. (Motorcycles I worked on had a nut you could turn with
> > wrench to rotate the crankshaft.)
> YOU CAN EITHER BUMP IT AROUND WITH THE STARTER, YOU CAN PUT A SOCKET ON
> THE DAMPNER BOLT (EASIER WITH SPARK PLUGS OUT0, OR THERE IS A SPECIAL

"Dampner bolt"?

> TOOL MADE FOR TURNING THE FLYWHEEL.
> > Second: where do you read the timing indication from. The book
> > made reference to reading the timing marks for initial static timing but
> > I didn't see where it said where you could read them.
> YOU DIDN'T SPECIFY WHICH ENGINE YOU HAVE, BUT GENERALLY THERE IS A
> POINTER ON THE TIMING COVER.

'72, 302 (not Boss).


[ 8< ]

> I'D SAY YOU NEED A CARB REBUILD AND ELECTRONIC IGNITION. SOUNDS LIKE
> YOU CAN HANDLE THE CARB YOURSELF,FOR THE IGN IF YOU WANT STOCK LOOKS, GO
> W/ PERTRONIX. IF YOU DON'T CARE ABOUT STOCK LOOKS, USE A DURASPARK II.
> BILL LEWIS HAS INFO ON HIS SITE. wrljet.com

How much time is involved in a carb' rebuild (we talking and
evening or weekend project for a home mechanic of my stated skill level
or something more extended) and where can I get the requisite info on
what needs to be done, tools and parts required, etc.

> > Thank you folks for your time. This really is a great list.
> JUST FOR THE RECORD, I WOULD'NT CONSIDER THESE BONE HEAD QUESTIONS. DID
> YOU EVER FIND A BUIDSHEET OR BUCK TAG?

Not yet. However, there's a lot of surface rust in the area where
folk have described the buck tag as being (superficial in depth so far
as I can tell, but fairly extensive in area) so maybe that's a factor in
not finding it. Still looking in places folk have suggested for build
sheets (haven't had a chance to look under the carpet up front for
instance).

--
David L. Burkhead "If I had eight hours to
Advanced Surface Microscopy, Inc. cut down a tree, I'd spend
mailtoemail redacted) seven sharpening my axe,"
Abraham Lincoln
disclaimer: none of the opinions in this message are necessarily
those of ASM, Inc.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Max Watson (email redacted)

David Burkhead asked...
> First: in an automatic transmission, how do you rotate the
>engine.

I've always removed the spark plugs. No compression makes it easy to turn
the crank by hand. Just grab the lower pulley and rotate.

> Second: where do you read the timing indication from. The book
>made reference to reading the timing marks for initial static timing but
>I didn't see where it said where you could read them.

Behind the lower pulley, the timing numbers are written on the crankshaft
damper (AKA harmonic balancer, it's big and round). There is a pointer
that is attached to the timing cover, on the passenger's side.

> Third: the last person to work on this engine had left both the
>distributor and the vacuum advance mechanism attached to it loose (bolts
>not properly tightened down) and both have slipped slightly in
>position.

You might be up a river with your vacuum advance out of whack. You could
go get it re-curved, I've heard it costs ~$60. This might be a good excuse
to switch to electronic ignition (with a new distributor). Go check out
wrljet.com/engines/duraspark.html

> Finally: The car has a minor problem ("minor" since I don't drag)
>in that if you punch the gas hard there's a stacatto "popping" sound
>from the exhaust and a loss of power (but no problem for more gradual
>acceleration).

Cuprit could be the f'ed-up vacuum advance. Could also be the carb. Hell,
first thing I always do when I buy a car is rebuild the carb.

>Only other engine problem is "cold bloodedness" in that
>it doesn't like to run at idle until the engine is thoroughly warmed up
>(requiring several minutes at 1500-2000 RPM even in 90+ degree
>weather).

Timing could be off, idle mixture could be off, choke might need adjusting,
accelerator pump could be dry rotted. I'de go buy a carb rebuild kit. I
rebuilt my Autolite 2100, I think I could teach a chimpanzee to do it.
When you put it all back together, hook up a vacuum gauge to the vacuum
tree on the rear of the intake manifold. Adjust the timing & and mixture
screws to acheive maximum vacuum & a steady needle. You may need to tweek
the timing, then tweek the mixture, then tweek the timing again, etc... Ohh
yeah, do it when the car is warm.

--
D. Maxwell Watson
<(email redacted)> Tractor Factor Productions
Santa Rosa, CA TractorFactor.base.org