Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: gjthiede (gjthiede

I just joined this messge board so this question may (probably) has been discussed, but here it is. I have a 65 mustang that I am converting from a C4 to a T5. I have a Modern Driveline cable conversion I started to install and found, as they warned, that my headers were in the way (Hedman 883000) of the cable to where it fastens to the bellhousing. Has any one done this cable conversion and found a set of headers that will allow the cable to be installed and not get cooked by the headers? I thought of trying Patriots tri y from CJ Pony Parts their part number EXHD10. Any other suggestions other than shorties or mid length?
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Mail From: W427 (David)

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Mail From: pboggini (Pete Boggini)

That or just put in the stock linkage. I think there are really only a
couple of us who still like it but it generally works fine with headers.
Well, according to the Hedman catalog, not on a '71-'73 but should be fine
for your '65.

peterb

On Tue, Mar 25, 2008 at 4:01 PM, David <W427 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Given the cost and hassle of fitting another set of headers and modding
> the exhaust to fit, you may want to consider changing to a hydraulic clutch
> setup. Very simple, very effective, and self-adjusting with no interference
> issues. There are two types, hydraulic throwout bearing and hydraulic slave
> cylinder. I have used both to good effect, but the slave type is easier to
> install, if that's a concern. Not cheap, though. Figure $400 and up for a
> commercial one like JMC (slave-type '60s Ford model specific kit) or
> Tillotson (T5 generic T/O bearing type) for examples. It may beat the cost
> of fitting a decent set of different headers in the end.
>
> David
>
> gjthiede at att.net wrote:
>
> I just joined this messge board so this question may (probably) has been
> discussed, but here it is. I have a 65 mustang that I am converting from a
> C4 to a T5. I have a Modern Driveline cable conversion I started to install
> and found, as they warned, that my headers were in the way (Hedman 883000)
> of the cable to where it fastens to the bellhousing. Has any one done this
> cable conversion and found a set of headers that will allow the cable to be
> installed and not get cooked by the headers? I thought of trying Patriots
> tri y from CJ Pony Parts their part number EXHD10. Any other suggestions
> other than shorties or mid length?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/<sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>
>
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Mail From: pboggini (Pete Boggini)

That or just put in the stock linkage. I think there are really only a
couple of us who still like it but it generally works fine with headers.
Well, according to the Hedman catalog, not on a '71-'73 but should be fine
for your '65.

peterb

On Tue, Mar 25, 2008 at 4:01 PM, David <W427 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Given the cost and hassle of fitting another set of headers and modding
> the exhaust to fit, you may want to consider changing to a hydraulic clutch
> setup. Very simple, very effective, and self-adjusting with no interference
> issues. There are two types, hydraulic throwout bearing and hydraulic slave
> cylinder. I have used both to good effect, but the slave type is easier to
> install, if that's a concern. Not cheap, though. Figure $400 and up for a
> commercial one like JMC (slave-type '60s Ford model specific kit) or
> Tillotson (T5 generic T/O bearing type) for examples. It may beat the cost
> of fitting a decent set of different headers in the end.
>
> David
>
> gjthiede at att.net wrote:
>
> I just joined this messge board so this question may (probably) has been
> discussed, but here it is. I have a 65 mustang that I am converting from a
> C4 to a T5. I have a Modern Driveline cable conversion I started to install
> and found, as they warned, that my headers were in the way (Hedman 883000)
> of the cable to where it fastens to the bellhousing. Has any one done this
> cable conversion and found a set of headers that will allow the cable to be
> installed and not get cooked by the headers? I thought of trying Patriots
> tri y from CJ Pony Parts their part number EXHD10. Any other suggestions
> other than shorties or mid length?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/<sauce.donair.org/%7Ecm/>
>
>
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Mail From: W427 (David)

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Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

I did a totally custom stock Ford type late model cable conversion on
mine. I fabricated the pedal setup with a longer pedal shaft and custom
quadrant. Then I used the stock Ford clutch cable from a '91 Mustang to
go to the T-5. I also fabricated a firewall stiffener because the cable
presses against the firewall on the engine side of the brake booster.
It uses a Forte type adjuster at the firewall.



I had to redrill my T-5 bellhousing with a slightly different cable
angle (just enough room to do this without filling in the original
hole). You might try that. Then the cable comes out of the bellhousing
at a different angle.



I think if I did it again I'd do a hydraulic conversion, but this works
well enough.



Keven



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Mail From: dharrelson (Dennis Harrelson)

Keven said:
"I had to redrill my T-5 bellhousing with a slightly different cable angle (just enough room to do this without filling in the original hole). You might try that. Then the cable comes out of the bellhousing at a different angle."

Doesn't the cable attach to the end of the release lever? I can't picture a drilled hole for the cable to exit.
Maybe being obtuse,
Dennis
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Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

The cable presses on the bellhousing, and the center of the cable pulls
the release lever (clutch fork). I redrilled the bellhousing to enable
the cable assembly to come back towards the engine at a different angle.



Does this make it clearer?



Keven

________________________________

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Dennis Harrelson
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 1:15 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] Clutch cable conversion



Keven said:

"I had to redrill my T-5 bellhousing with a slightly different cable
angle (just enough room to do this without filling in the original
hole). You might try that. Then the cable comes out of the bellhousing
at a different angle."



Doesn't the cable attach to the end of the release lever? I can't
picture a drilled hole for the cable to exit.

Maybe being obtuse,

Dennis

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Mail From: dharrelson (Dennis Harrelson)

DOH! Yeah, I remember. Like an ear cast with the bell that the cable sleeve needs for an anchor. You needed to crowd the engine a little to get header clearance.
I never even looked at that. I think my headers were way too dead center in the way for it to work, though.
Later,
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Coates, Keven
To: Dennis Harrelson
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Clutch cable conversion


The cable presses on the bellhousing, and the center of the cable pulls the release lever (clutch fork). I redrilled the bellhousing to enable the cable assembly to come back towards the engine at a different angle.



Does this make it clearer?



Keven


------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca [mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Dennis Harrelson
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 1:15 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] Clutch cable conversion



Keven said:

"I had to redrill my T-5 bellhousing with a slightly different cable angle (just enough room to do this without filling in the original hole). You might try that. Then the cable comes out of the bellhousing at a different angle."



Doesn't the cable attach to the end of the release lever? I can't picture a drilled hole for the cable to exit.

Maybe being obtuse,

Dennis



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Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

In the places where the cable gets too close to the headers I wrapped
the cable with fiberglass, then bailing wire (to keep the fiberglass
secure and provide an air gap between it and the next layer, and sheet
aluminum. The outside aluminum reflects most of the heat, while the
other side of the aluminum gets cooled by a little airflow due to the
air gap from the sparse wrapping of the bailing wire, and the fiberglass
cloth is insulates the cable against the remaining heat.



It's worked great for about 10 years now in the 100+ degree Houston
summers. Without it, it would be a molten mess.



Keven

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