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Mail From: mach70 (mark thispot)




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>Subject: Classic-mustangs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 10
>Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 03:28:43 -0300 (ADT)
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>Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Emblems & Lettering (David Peabody)
> 2. Re: White interior (Randy Siwik)
> 3. RE: Odd fuel sender question (Linc)
> 4. brake fluid (scott)
> 5. Re: brake fluid (theboss426)
> 6. Re: brake fluid ((email redacted))
> 7. Re: Odd fuel sender question (Mustang)
> 8. Re: (no subject) ((email redacted))
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 8:40:01 -0400
>From: David Peabody <(email redacted)>
>Subject: [CM] Emblems & Lettering
>To: <(email redacted)>
>Message-ID:
> <(email redacted)>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
>Has anyone found a way to properly align the placement of emblems and
>lettering?
>
>My car doesn't have any holes to place them in and I'm about to send my car
>to the paint shop. I'd rather make the holes first and not chance ruining a
>new paint job with markings and tape.
>
>I recall that someone had posted they had made a template for this. I'd be
>interested "Renting" it for a day and would gladly pay for postage both
>ways if there is such a thing.
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 2
>Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 09:32:36 -0400
>From: Randy Siwik <(email redacted)>
>Subject: Re: [CM] White interior
>To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
> <(email redacted)>
>Message-ID: <(email redacted)>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
>Tony,
>
>This may sound too simple. There are I believe two or three major
>vendors that make repo upholstery. You could always just order a set
>from one of the other manufacturers and see how that looks.
>Keep the one you like the best.
>
>My interior is white also, when I painted my new (black) door panels
>white, they came out identical to my seat skins. I remember my
>interior paint was year specific. I got it from CJ's Pony Parts.
>
>Good Luck,
>Randy- '70 Mach 1
>Central Ohio
>
>Tony Mazzuca wrote:
>
> > Hello to all. I own a 1965 Convertible black with a white interior. I
> > have owned it for two years and have now decided to change the
> > interior with a new after-market upholstery set. My problem is that
> > the set I have received (made by TMI) is quite different to what is
> > there now. The new set is closer to a "cream" color. The old was more
> > an "ivory"
> >
> > The problem is the painted areas around the door and rear quarters are
> > matching the old vinyl. I can believe that the metal was repainted at
> > some point. Is the original white closer to ivory or cream in color?
> > Do I try to get the metal painted to match the new vinyl?
> >
> >
> >
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>------------------------------
>
>Message: 3
>Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 11:09:21 -0400
>From: "Linc" <(email redacted)>
>Subject: RE: [CM] Odd fuel sender question
>To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
> <(email redacted)>
>Message-ID: <(email redacted)>
>
>Yes, you can easily throw a lit match into a full bucket
>of gasoline. Howe ever, if you attempt to throw a lit
>match into a half full bucket of gasoline your in for a
>large flame.
>
>Linc
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: (email redacted)
>[mailtoemail redacted)]On Behalf Of
>Mustang
>Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:44 AM
>To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
>Subject: Re: [CM] Odd fuel sender question
>
>
>I think Jeff nailed this one. In fact, a spark submersed (sp?) will not
>ignite gasoline. I've actually, when young and dumb, thrown a lighted match
>into a coffee can with gasoline in it. I was hoping for a cool explosion,
>but as soon as the match hit the liquid (gasoline in this case), the match
>extinguished. Back then, I even remember three or four extinguished wooden
>matches floating in that can. I've not been dumb enough to try it again.
>
>Here's an interesting site though:
>
>hypertextbook.com/facts/2003/ShaniChristopher.shtml
>
>It talks about flash point and oxygen/fuel ration required for an
>explosion.
>
>Ken
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "mark thispot" <(email redacted)>
>To: <(email redacted)>
>Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 6:27 PM
>Subject: [CM] Odd fuel sender question
>
>
> > My sender quit working last year so I thought I'd pull it out & have a
>look
> > at what broke before I order a replacement. Simple: The wire popped
>off
> > the rheostat & was just hanging there. I'm not very impressed with the
> > flimsy brass connection & can see why it failed after only 3 years (it's
>a
> > re-pop sender). I soldered it on and that should hold much better than
>the
> > original did. Now the question: Why don't these things cause the tank
>to
> > explode? I'm serious. There're bare electrical connections right there
>in
> > the fuel. A wire-wound rheostat like the level sensor sure LOOKS like
> > trouble! I'm not trying to alarm anyone or get another thread going
>about
> > fuel cells or solid trunk panels but hey I've seen "Apollo 13" and
>remember
> > TWA Flight 800 so there must be something I don't know about gasoline
>that
> > allows a potential ignition source to NOT cause an explosion. And
>that's
> > not even considering all the newer vehicles with the electric fuel pump
> > mounted right in the tank. Is there an engineer or enlightened list
>member
> > that can explain this to me?
> >
> > Mark
> > 70 Mach 1
> > (and yes I will continue to drive it without a worry)
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Limited-time offer: Fast, reliable MSN 9 Dial-up Internet access FREE
>for
>2
> > months!
> >
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> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > (email redacted)
> > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>(email redacted)
>lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 4
>Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 16:24:04 -0400
>From: "scott" <(email redacted)>
>Subject: [CM] brake fluid
>To: <(email redacted)>
>Message-ID: <000e01c41e70$9a956930$8739b118@homejeh6lhkv32>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>I have been having some probs with my brakes..i cant seem to get the
>porportioning valve to center so the brake light stays on. also, i seem to
>keep losing pressure but i have no leaks and fluid is full. However the
>front bank on my master cylinder is cloudy where as the back is still
>pretty clean...I have a 69 mach with manual drums all the way around. is
>this normal ?? I slowly lose pressure when im at a red light or stop with
>slight pressure on the pedal..
>
>Thanks,
>
>Scott
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>------------------------------
>
>Message: 5
>Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 15:40:45 -0500
>From: "theboss426" <(email redacted)>
>Subject: Re: [CM] brake fluid
>To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
> <(email redacted)>
>Message-ID: <005101c41e72$ef70ab20$302ea343@C2007754A>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>Sounds like a bad master cylinder.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: scott
> To: (email redacted)
> Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 3:24 PM
> Subject: [CM] brake fluid
>
>
> I have been having some probs with my brakes..i cant seem to get the
>porportioning valve to center so the brake light stays on. also, i seem to
>keep losing pressure but i have no leaks and fluid is full. However the
>front bank on my master cylinder is cloudy where as the back is still
>pretty clean...I have a 69 mach with manual drums all the way around. is
>this normal ?? I slowly lose pressure when im at a red light or stop with
>slight pressure on the pedal..
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
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>------------------------------
>
>Message: 6
>Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 16:50:19 EDT
>From: (email redacted)
>Subject: Re: [CM] brake fluid
>To: (email redacted)
>Message-ID: <(email redacted)>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> I second that motion on the master cylinder!
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 7
>Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 13:56:02 -0700
>From: "Mustang" <(email redacted)>
>Subject: Re: [CM] Odd fuel sender question
>To: <(email redacted)>, "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
> <(email redacted)>
>Message-ID: <(email redacted)>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>But only if enough fumes have built up. This can wasn't quite half full.
>AND, I am not recommending it be tried. Remember, I was young back then,
>and
>usually learned things the hard way!
>
>Ken
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Linc" <(email redacted)>
>To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
><(email redacted)>
>Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 8:09 AM
>Subject: RE: [CM] Odd fuel sender question
>
>
> > Yes, you can easily throw a lit match into a full bucket
> > of gasoline. Howe ever, if you attempt to throw a lit
> > match into a half full bucket of gasoline your in for a
> > large flame.
> >
> > Linc
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: (email redacted)
> > [mailtoemail redacted)]On Behalf Of
> > Mustang
> > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:44 AM
> > To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
> > Subject: Re: [CM] Odd fuel sender question
> >
> >
> > I think Jeff nailed this one. In fact, a spark submersed (sp?) will not
> > ignite gasoline. I've actually, when young and dumb, thrown a lighted
>match
> > into a coffee can with gasoline in it. I was hoping for a cool
>explosion,
> > but as soon as the match hit the liquid (gasoline in this case), the
>match
> > extinguished. Back then, I even remember three or four extinguished
>wooden
> > matches floating in that can. I've not been dumb enough to try it again.
> >
> > Here's an interesting site though:
> >
> > hypertextbook.com/facts/2003/ShaniChristopher.shtml
> >
> > It talks about flash point and oxygen/fuel ration required for an
>explosion.
> >
> > Ken
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "mark thispot" <(email redacted)>
> > To: <(email redacted)>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 6:27 PM
> > Subject: [CM] Odd fuel sender question
> >
> >
> > > My sender quit working last year so I thought I'd pull it out & have a
> > look
> > > at what broke before I order a replacement. Simple: The wire popped
>off
> > > the rheostat & was just hanging there. I'm not very impressed with
>the
> > > flimsy brass connection & can see why it failed after only 3 years
>(it's
>a
> > > re-pop sender). I soldered it on and that should hold much better
>than
> > the
> > > original did. Now the question: Why don't these things cause the
>tank
>to
> > > explode? I'm serious. There're bare electrical connections right
>there
> > in
> > > the fuel. A wire-wound rheostat like the level sensor sure LOOKS like
> > > trouble! I'm not trying to alarm anyone or get another thread going
>about
> > > fuel cells or solid trunk panels but hey I've seen "Apollo 13" and
> > remember
> > > TWA Flight 800 so there must be something I don't know about gasoline
>that
> > > allows a potential ignition source to NOT cause an explosion. And
>that's
> > > not even considering all the newer vehicles with the electric fuel
>pump
> > > mounted right in the tank. Is there an engineer or enlightened list
> > member
> > > that can explain this to me?
> > >
> > > Mark
> > > 70 Mach 1
> > > (and yes I will continue to drive it without a worry)
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Limited-time offer: Fast, reliable MSN 9 Dial-up Internet access FREE
>for
> > 2
> > > months!
> > >
> >
>join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup&pgmarket=en-us&ST=1/go/onm00200361ave/
> > direct/01/
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > > (email redacted)
> > > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > (email redacted)
> > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classic-mustangs mailing list
> > (email redacted)
> > lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
> >
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 8
>Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 02:25:05 EDT
>From: (email redacted)
>Subject: Re: [CM] (no subject)
>To: (email redacted)
>Message-ID: <(email redacted)>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
>Matt
>I have owned my 1967 for 27 years and had the front end rebuilt about 15
>years ago.
>The upper ball joint can be relaced i did one just 2 wks ago and the left
>inner tie rod.
>The Lower ball joint can Not be replaced will have to replace the lower
>control arm.
>What is wrong with yours
>James
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>(email redacted)
>lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>End of Classic-mustangs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 10
>************************************************

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