Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Chris Layt)

John, Chris,

Thanks for the info. When I first purchased the car many years ago it never
had a problem with over heating, after the re-build, it heated up badly
where the engine was running on. The only thing that was different than
before the re-build was than we removed the retardation from the timing (I
think that's right). We have checked the timing several times since then
and it appears fine. I recently had the radiator re-cored, the guy at the
shop said the design of the one in there was so old, and this seem to help
while driving. My problem now is it creeps while idling. I'm running 50/50
mix, all new and quality hoses, new 3 core radiator, 13lb cap, new belts. I
haven't changed the sensor (this may be a bit dicky as sometimes the gauge
spikes off the scale, but that's for another session), or had a good look at
the flow restrictor. I haven't changed the stat that's in there (not even
sure what it is) which leads me to my next question.

One thing I don't understand is the thermostat that some have been talking
about. If I'm correct, some have said that if you are heating up go with a
higher stat eg, 195. I thought that if you heat up you would want the
water/coolant mix to flow through at a lower temp, thus getting it through
the radiator sooner.

I am going to try and eliminate the problem bit by bit, starting today with
a 175 stat. After that I'll try a higher one. I'll change the cap to a
16lb as I can here the pressure seeping out, and I'm sure it's not meant to
be that way. From there I'll play with the flow restrictor. Since it is
idle when the temp gets up, I was considering electric fans - advise
please - good or bad move?

I will keep you informed of how it goes.

Cheers,

Chris Layt
Re-built 68 Coupe that is one temperamental bitch!!!

Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 01:01:44 -0500
> From: John Dettori <(email redacted)>
> Subject: Re: [CM] Re: ISO (John Dettori)
> To: (email redacted)
> Reply-To: (email redacted)
>
> On Thursday, March 28, 2002 3:31 AM,
> "Chris Layt" <(email redacted)> wrote:
>
>
> > John,
> >
> > You mentioned the other week that this flow restrictor may be the reason
I
> > was overheating after rebuilding my 351c. The flow restrictor is the
> brass
> > bit underneath the thermostat??? or is it more like a plug on the
block???
>
> In the 1970 351C-4V, it looks like a washer underneath the thermostat.
> Haven't seen one in other motors, but if you've been following this thread
> apparently quite a few performance minded folks run a "right-sized" flow
> restrictor in their motors.
>
> > This may sound stupid, but how do you adjust the flow restrictor as I
have
> > replaced the core on the radiator but am still running hotter than I
would
> > like. I am thinking of purchasing a shroud or exchanging the water
pump.
>
> Again, I'll relate my experience. My 1970 Mach I w/351C-4V was running
hot
> from the day I got 12 years ago. I replaced the thermostat, sending unit,
> hoses
> and belts, retarded the timing, added a new radiator cap, and finally
> recored the
> radiator (4-row), added a correct Ford fan shroud, and went for another
set
> of
> hoses and belts. My problem got better, but wasn't solved. Then one day,
I
> happend upon a Ford TSB that mentioned the flow restrictor. I asked a
club
> member who at the time was a Ford mechanic. He got me one, which I
promptly
> installed. All of a sudden, my problem virtually disappeared. I said
> virtually
> because I still had "hard" starts when hot. That didn't get resolved
until
> I rebuilt
> the motor, adding a new harmonic balancer (the old one slipped) and
> rebuilding
> the distributor. Now you could idle the damn thing all day long in
> 100-degree
> weather and it wouldn't over heat. I added new transmission cooling lines
> during
> the rebuild, and a new water pump too.
>
> The thread on this stated that people start with a very small hole in the
> flow re-
> strictor and drill successively larger openings until they empirically
> determine
> what size works best.
>
> BTW, that same Ford mechanic build an awesome 351C-4V for his own personal
> driver. The 72 convertible it sits in is extremely fast, but he had an
> overheating
> problem too. He had a custom radiator built for the car. It was achieved
> by connecting
> two 3-core radiators together, effectively building a 6-core.
>
> The shroud is a good idea, regardless. Just don't lean on it. I assume
> you're running
> a 50/50 mix of water and coolant, with a 15lb cap, decent hoses and belts,
> and have
> the car timed right. If the water pump is not leaking, then it's working.
>
> Good luck!
>
> ====================================================================
> John Dettori 01 Cobra (4.6l 6A
> Sr. Manager 86 SVO (2.3l IT)
> KPMG Consulting, Inc. 70 Mach I (351C-4V)
> (email redacted) 67 GT350 (289-4V SC)
> 516 298 7072 67 GT Conv (289-4V)
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 07:04:11 -0600
> To: (email redacted)
> From: Chris Kelly <(email redacted)>
> Subject: Re: [CM] Re: Cooling the 351C's jets
> Reply-To: (email redacted)
>
> To cool my 380+HP 351C in the Falcon - 4 core copper brass radiator (core
> size 18x24", custom shroud, 18" large blade flex fan, Flow Kooler high
> volume pump, 195 T-stat. Working towards swapping in a 27x19 or 31x19 2
> core aluminium radiator and dual high CFM fans. These motors just seem to
> run a little hot, especially after a .030 overbore. Head gasket seal and
> the flow restrictor (more likely this is a flow diverter) are critical to
> success.
> At 01:01 AM 3/29/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >On Thursday, March 28, 2002 3:31 AM,
> > "Chris Layt" <(email redacted)> wrote:
> >
> >
> >> John,
> >>
> >> You mentioned the other week that this flow restrictor may be the
reason I
> >> was overheating after rebuilding my 351c. The flow restrictor is the
> >brass
> >> bit underneath the thermostat??? or is it more like a plug on the
block???
> >
> ========The Kelly's==============
> Chris - (email redacted)
> Debbie - (email redacted)
> users.abilene.com/~dkelly
> Merkel, Texas
> =================================
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs
>
>
> End of Classic-mustangs Digest

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Ron Cordes)

after the re-build, it heated up badly
where the engine was running on.


Might want to make sure that you A: used the right head gasket, and B: you
installed it correctly.

Ron

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Chris Kelly)

Overheating at idle is due to insufficient air flow. A fan with bigger
blades and a properly designed shroud is necessary. Also, I have found
that running the 195 lets the water collect the necessary heat from the
engine and carry it to the radiator. Moving too much water doesn't let it
pick up heat or give it time to give it up in the radiator. 1st, before
you throw a bunch of money at it - get it pressure tested. Make sure you
don't have some kind of leak.

As for electric fans, you may be able to help this with an auxillary 14~16"
electric, but I wouldn't bet on it. As for running just electrics, forget
it. They do NOT move near the volume of air a fixed fan does. If you
stick with the old style vertical core radiator, you need 3500+ CFM at idle
to hold the temp. That's why I have the rig I have. I have estimated that
to use electrics in place of my 18" engine driven fan, I'll need no less
than a horizontal, two 1" core 28x19 aluminium radiator with 2 fans moving
at least 2800~3000CFM.

========The Kelly's==============
Chris - (email redacted)
Debbie - (email redacted)
users.abilene.com/~dkelly
Merkel, Texas
=================================