Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: ronmail (RonC)

To all who responded I send my thanks for your contributions.

After checking for leaks, bulging of hoses, etc., I found no other
problems. What I eventually did was remove the calipers and wire-tie
them so that they were higher than the connection of the rubber
brakehose to the hard line on the frame rail. I then bled the calipers
again (using the MityVac method) and got some more air out. It all
worked out as one would expect, successfully.

I don't know if sitting for a couple of days let the air collect in the
calipers or let the air eventually make its way back into the master
cylinder and burp out as mentioned by Tom Slattery.

In any event, I now have solid brakes on the Mach, and have moved on to
repairing the ignition switch and re-charging the AC (who says it will
ever end?)

Cheers,
Ron Columbo
Chandler, AZ
64-1/2 Conv
65 GT FB
65 FB
70 Mach I

> Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 19:19:01 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Patrick Stott <(email redacted)>
>
> While bleeding the brakes did you open the bleeder
> before or after depressing the brake? I've read it can
> be done both ways, but might be more effective opening
> the bleeder after depressing the brake.
>
> While you have a helper around, have him hold the
> pedal down while you check for leaks at all the
> connections just in case.
>
> HTH
>
>
> =====
> Patrick Stott
> 69 Mustang 302
>
photos.yahoo.com/bc/patrickstott/lst?&.dir=/Mustang/New+Pictures+2001
> Caracas, Venezuela

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: cwdaniel (Cliff Daniel)

Great, now that your the seasoned veteran I'll have you stop by when I bleed
the entire reworked system on my 66. Which I am about to do.

Anyone out there have any opinions on using the silicone opposed to the old
standard brake fluid?

Cliff Daniel
Tempe, AZ

66 Fastback
members.cox.net/cwdaniel/stang%20page/indexstang.htm


-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)]On Behalf Of RonC
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 1:04 PM
To: (email redacted)
Subject: [CM] Re: Can't get firm brake pedal ---solved


To all who responded I send my thanks for your contributions.

After checking for leaks, bulging of hoses, etc., I found no other
problems. What I eventually did was remove the calipers and wire-tie
them so that they were higher than the connection of the rubber
brakehose to the hard line on the frame rail. I then bled the calipers
again (using the MityVac method) and got some more air out. It all
worked out as one would expect, successfully.

I don't know if sitting for a couple of days let the air collect in the
calipers or let the air eventually make its way back into the master
cylinder and burp out as mentioned by Tom Slattery.

In any event, I now have solid brakes on the Mach, and have moved on to
repairing the ignition switch and re-charging the AC (who says it will
ever end?)

Cheers,
Ron Columbo
Chandler, AZ
64-1/2 Conv
65 GT FB
65 FB
70 Mach I

> Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 19:19:01 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Patrick Stott <(email redacted)>
>
> While bleeding the brakes did you open the bleeder
> before or after depressing the brake? I've read it can
> be done both ways, but might be more effective opening
> the bleeder after depressing the brake.
>
> While you have a helper around, have him hold the
> pedal down while you check for leaks at all the
> connections just in case.
>
> HTH
>
>
> =====
> Patrick Stott
> 69 Mustang 302
>
photos.yahoo.com/bc/patrickstott/lst?&.dir=/Mustang/New+Pictures+2001
> Caracas, Venezuela


_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: ronsoy (Ronsoy)

Only prob I have with the Dot 5 is the lack of ability to absorb water,
makes the water stay in little pockets throughout the system and corrode
from the inside out...Just look at any 10 year old Harley with stock brake
lines...Or maybe you wont find any.

Ron

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Daniel" <(email redacted)>
To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
<(email redacted)>
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 10:56 PM
Subject: RE: [CM] Re: Can't get firm brake pedal ---solved


> Great, now that your the seasoned veteran I'll have you stop by when I
bleed
> the entire reworked system on my 66. Which I am about to do.
>
> Anyone out there have any opinions on using the silicone opposed to the
old
> standard brake fluid?
>
> Cliff Daniel
> Tempe, AZ
>
> 66 Fastback
> members.cox.net/cwdaniel/stang%20page/indexstang.htm
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: (email redacted)
> [mailtoemail redacted)]On Behalf Of RonC
> Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 1:04 PM
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: [CM] Re: Can't get firm brake pedal ---solved
>
>
> To all who responded I send my thanks for your contributions.
>
> After checking for leaks, bulging of hoses, etc., I found no other
> problems. What I eventually did was remove the calipers and wire-tie
> them so that they were higher than the connection of the rubber
> brakehose to the hard line on the frame rail. I then bled the calipers
> again (using the MityVac method) and got some more air out. It all
> worked out as one would expect, successfully.
>
> I don't know if sitting for a couple of days let the air collect in the
> calipers or let the air eventually make its way back into the master
> cylinder and burp out as mentioned by Tom Slattery.
>
> In any event, I now have solid brakes on the Mach, and have moved on to
> repairing the ignition switch and re-charging the AC (who says it will
> ever end?)
>
> Cheers,
> Ron Columbo
> Chandler, AZ
> 64-1/2 Conv
> 65 GT FB
> 65 FB
> 70 Mach I
>
> > Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 19:19:01 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: Patrick Stott <(email redacted)>
> >
> > While bleeding the brakes did you open the bleeder
> > before or after depressing the brake? I've read it can
> > be done both ways, but might be more effective opening
> > the bleeder after depressing the brake.
> >
> > While you have a helper around, have him hold the
> > pedal down while you check for leaks at all the
> > connections just in case.
> >
> > HTH
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Patrick Stott
> > 69 Mustang 302
> >
>
photos.yahoo.com/bc/patrickstott/lst?&.dir=/Mustang/New+Pictures+2001
> > Caracas, Venezuela
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: psawyer (Dr. Paul R. Sawyer)

I'd go with DOT 5--doesn't eat paint and doesn't draw water so once
your system is free of water, it stays free. PLUS, the silicon keeps
any rubber parts it touches nice and fresh.

Used it in the 66 for over 7 years--no problems other than the expense.

--Paul
On Monday, September 1, 2003, at 10:04 PM, Ronsoy wrote:

> Only prob I have with the Dot 5 is the lack of ability to absorb water,
> makes the water stay in little pockets throughout the system and
> corrode
> from the inside out...Just look at any 10 year old Harley with stock
> brake
> lines...Or maybe you wont find any.
>
> Ron
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cliff Daniel" <(email redacted)>
> To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
> <(email redacted)>
> Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 10:56 PM
> Subject: RE: [CM] Re: Can't get firm brake pedal ---solved
>
>
>> Great, now that your the seasoned veteran I'll have you stop by when I
> bleed
>> the entire reworked system on my 66. Which I am about to do.
>>
>> Anyone out there have any opinions on using the silicone opposed to
>> the
> old
>> standard brake fluid?
>>
>> Cliff Daniel
>> Tempe, AZ
>>
>> 66 Fastback
>> members.cox.net/cwdaniel/stang%20page/indexstang.htm
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: (email redacted)
>> [mailtoemail redacted)]On Behalf Of
>> RonC
>> Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 1:04 PM
>> To: (email redacted)
>> Subject: [CM] Re: Can't get firm brake pedal ---solved
>>
>>
>> To all who responded I send my thanks for your contributions.
>>
>> After checking for leaks, bulging of hoses, etc., I found no other
>> problems. What I eventually did was remove the calipers and wire-tie
>> them so that they were higher than the connection of the rubber
>> brakehose to the hard line on the frame rail. I then bled the calipers
>> again (using the MityVac method) and got some more air out. It all
>> worked out as one would expect, successfully.
>>
>> I don't know if sitting for a couple of days let the air collect in
>> the
>> calipers or let the air eventually make its way back into the master
>> cylinder and burp out as mentioned by Tom Slattery.
>>
>> In any event, I now have solid brakes on the Mach, and have moved on
>> to
>> repairing the ignition switch and re-charging the AC (who says it will
>> ever end?)
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Ron Columbo
>> Chandler, AZ
>> 64-1/2 Conv
>> 65 GT FB
>> 65 FB
>> 70 Mach I
>>
>>> Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 19:19:01 -0700 (PDT)
>>> From: Patrick Stott <(email redacted)>
>>>
>>> While bleeding the brakes did you open the bleeder
>>> before or after depressing the brake? I've read it can
>>> be done both ways, but might be more effective opening
>>> the bleeder after depressing the brake.
>>>
>>> While you have a helper around, have him hold the
>>> pedal down while you check for leaks at all the
>>> connections just in case.
>>>
>>> HTH
>>>
>>>
>>> =====
>>> Patrick Stott
>>> 69 Mustang 302
>>>
>>
> photos.yahoo.com/bc/patrickstott/lst?&.dir=/Mustang/
> New+Pictures+2001
>>> Caracas, Venezuela
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classic-mustangs mailing list
>> (email redacted)
>> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classic-mustangs mailing list
>> (email redacted)
>> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: walt.boeninger (Walt Boeninger)



> From: "Cliff Daniel" <(email redacted)>
> To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
> <(email redacted)>
> Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 10:56 PM
> Subject: RE: [CM] Re: Can't get firm brake pedal ---solved
>
>
>
>>Great, now that your the seasoned veteran I'll have you stop by when I
>> bleed the entire reworked system on my 66. Which I am about to do.
>>Anyone out there have any opinions on using the silicone opposed to the
> old standard brake fluid?

Yea. Don't.

Walt

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: rpprince (Paul Prince)

DOT 5 offers many advantages but totally maintenance free is not one of them
:-)

You should still flush your brakes ever few years no matter what type of
fluid you use.

-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)]On Behalf Of
Ronsoy
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 11:05 PM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Re: Can't get firm brake pedal ---solved


Only prob I have with the Dot 5 is the lack of ability to absorb water,
makes the water stay in little pockets throughout the system and corrode
from the inside out...Just look at any 10 year old Harley with stock brake
lines...Or maybe you wont find any.

Ron

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Daniel" <(email redacted)>
To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
<(email redacted)>
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 10:56 PM
Subject: RE: [CM] Re: Can't get firm brake pedal ---solved


> Great, now that your the seasoned veteran I'll have you stop by when I
bleed
> the entire reworked system on my 66. Which I am about to do.
>
> Anyone out there have any opinions on using the silicone opposed to the
old
> standard brake fluid?
>
> Cliff Daniel
> Tempe, AZ
>
> 66 Fastback
> members.cox.net/cwdaniel/stang%20page/indexstang.htm
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: (email redacted)
> [mailtoemail redacted)]On Behalf Of RonC
> Sent: Monday, September 01, 2003 1:04 PM
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: [CM] Re: Can't get firm brake pedal ---solved
>
>
> To all who responded I send my thanks for your contributions.
>
> After checking for leaks, bulging of hoses, etc., I found no other
> problems. What I eventually did was remove the calipers and wire-tie
> them so that they were higher than the connection of the rubber
> brakehose to the hard line on the frame rail. I then bled the calipers
> again (using the MityVac method) and got some more air out. It all
> worked out as one would expect, successfully.
>
> I don't know if sitting for a couple of days let the air collect in the
> calipers or let the air eventually make its way back into the master
> cylinder and burp out as mentioned by Tom Slattery.
>
> In any event, I now have solid brakes on the Mach, and have moved on to
> repairing the ignition switch and re-charging the AC (who says it will
> ever end?)
>
> Cheers,
> Ron Columbo
> Chandler, AZ
> 64-1/2 Conv
> 65 GT FB
> 65 FB
> 70 Mach I
>
> > Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 19:19:01 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: Patrick Stott <(email redacted)>
> >
> > While bleeding the brakes did you open the bleeder
> > before or after depressing the brake? I've read it can
> > be done both ways, but might be more effective opening
> > the bleeder after depressing the brake.
> >
> > While you have a helper around, have him hold the
> > pedal down while you check for leaks at all the
> > connections just in case.
> >
> > HTH
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Patrick Stott
> > 69 Mustang 302
> >
>
photos.yahoo.com/bc/patrickstott/lst?&.dir=/Mustang/New+Pictures+2001
> > Caracas, Venezuela
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>


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