Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: David Cooperstein (email redacted)

My 66 coupes' brakes SUCK! They are drum/drum. What will get me better
performance out of them? I have considered a front disc conversion, a power
brake conversion, or both. Which is better?

If I were to do a disc conv. now, would there be a problems in the future if
I were to add power? What Is involved in these conversions? Do I need new
brake pedal, master cylinder, anything?

Help me out guys.

THX
DAVE

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Mail From: R & P (email redacted)

Can you do a power booster on four wheel drum??

If so I have a buddy that would be interested...

Ron

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Mail From: Edward Chase (email redacted)

This might be somewhat informative to you...

vintage-mustang.com/topics/faq/drumtodisk.html

From this page, you should be able to almost find anything you need...

links.vintage-mustang.com/nomusic.html



At 09:51 PM 9/5/00 -0400, David Cooperstein wrote:
>My 66 coupes' brakes SUCK! They are drum/drum. What will get me better
>performance out of them? I have considered a front disc conversion, a power
>brake conversion, or both. Which is better?
>
>If I were to do a disc conv. now, would there be a problems in the future if
>I were to add power? What Is involved in these conversions? Do I need new
>brake pedal, master cylinder, anything?
>
>Help me out guys.
>
>THX
>DAVE
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>(email redacted)
>mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: David Cooperstein (email redacted)

>From what I understand yes u can. I think u just need two inline 10 lb.
residual pressure check valves. These mount inline
between the master and the brakes (one for the front and one for the rear).
These are available from Summit or Jegs (or any street rod shop) for about
19.00 each.

DAVE

-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of R & P
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 10:02 PM
To: (email redacted)
Subject: Re: [CM] brakes

Can you do a power booster on four wheel drum??

If so I have a buddy that would be interested...

Ron


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(email redacted)
mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs

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Mail From: Stephen Mirsky (email redacted)

Do you need the pressure valves if the master cylinder is located in it's
stock location? I thought those aftermarket valves are only really needed
if the master cylinder is moved (below the floor etc)

-steve in nj-
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Rick Larson (email redacted)

Edward writes:
>
> This might be somewhat informative to you...
>
> vintage-mustang.com/topics/faq/drumtodisk.html
>
> From this page, you should be able to almost find anything you need...

You can also find another write up at themustangshop.com and
click on the how-to link.

> At 09:51 PM 9/5/00 -0400, David Cooperstein wrote:
> >My 66 coupes' brakes SUCK! They are drum/drum. What will get me better
> >performance out of them? I have considered a front disc conversion, a power
> >brake conversion, or both. Which is better?

I have manual front disc brakes and don't think the effort is
a problem. I kept it simple and didn't add power.

> >If I were to do a disc conv. now, would there be a problems in the future if
> >I were to add power? What Is involved in these conversions? Do I need new
> >brake pedal, master cylinder, anything?

There isn't a lot of room between the shock tower and firewall. Finding
a power master cylinder and power booster combo might be a challenge.

I've *read* you need to change the brake pedal pivot point. I can't
remember if you need a "power" brake pedal. You will need a power
master cylinder.

> >Help me out guys.

Read the above URL links and if you still have questions, someone
on this list should be able to help out. This question is one of
the more popular ones. Searching the archives might also be helpful.

rick
66 coupe
--
Rick Larson (email redacted)
Minneapolis

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Marcus Miller (email redacted)

Rick Larson wrote:
>
> Edward writes:
> >
> > This might be somewhat informative to you...
> >
> > vintage-mustang.com/topics/faq/drumtodisk.html
> >
> > From this page, you should be able to almost find anything you need...
>
> You can also find another write up at themustangshop.com and
> click on the how-to link.

How many people do you suppose have looked at that link over the years
Rick? You helped out a ton of us with that info. From me at least, a big
Thanks! :-)


> > At 09:51 PM 9/5/00 -0400, David Cooperstein wrote:
> > >My 66 coupes' brakes SUCK! They are drum/drum. What will get me better
> > >performance out of them? I have considered a front disc conversion, a power
> > >brake conversion, or both. Which is better?
>
> I have manual front disc brakes and don't think the effort is
> a problem. I kept it simple and didn't add power.

I followed Rick's lead and did the same thing, manual discs. They work
well, and the pedal feel is easier than my drums were (which is
backwards of theory).


>
> > >If I were to do a disc conv. now, would there be a problems in the future if
> > >I were to add power? What Is involved in these conversions? Do I need new
> > >brake pedal, master cylinder, anything?
>
> There isn't a lot of room between the shock tower and firewall. Finding
> a power master cylinder and power booster combo might be a challenge.

Trans AM racing makes a thin line booster, but its $$$$...

>
> I've *read* you need to change the brake pedal pivot point. I can't
> remember if you need a "power" brake pedal. You will need a power
> master cylinder.
>

What you need is a power disc brake pedal *arm.* It's available in repro
form from Mustangs unlimited.


> > >Help me out guys.
>
> Read the above URL links and if you still have questions, someone
> on this list should be able to help out. This question is one of
> the more popular ones. Searching the archives might also be helpful.

Or just beg borrow and steal the info from Rick himself (j/k) :-)


Marcus Miller
Rohnert Park, CA
geocities.com/fordracing68

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Rick Larson (email redacted)

Marcus,

> How many people do you suppose have looked at that link over the years
> Rick? You helped out a ton of us with that info. From me at least, a big
> Thanks! :-)

Gee. Thanks. All I did was collect a lot of info gathered on *this
list* and tried to write up the conversion as I did it myself. Many
list members contributed to the content and I was lucky to have Bob
on the vintage-mustang site publish the HTML. It may be a bit old
now but I'm glad to hear it has been useful.

I do get a couple of emails on the subject :-).

rick
--
Rick Larson (email redacted)
Minneapolis

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Mail From: R & P (email redacted)

Thanks DAVE

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)

Dave,

i put granada front discs on mine and installed a power booster from a
ford fairmont. it was all basically bolt in (except for the booster). the
whole thing (booster included)didnt cost near as much as the disc conversion
kits.

i am still working on the restoration , so i havent gotten to try the
system out yet. i have heard from others with the same set up that it works
great.

hope this helps....

Jason
'66 coupe
New Albany , IN

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)

In a message dated 9/6/2000 5:58:37 PM, (email redacted) writes:

>Dave,
>
> i put granada front discs on mine and installed a power booster from
>a
>ford fairmont. it was all basically bolt in (except for the booster). the
>
>whole thing (booster included)didnt cost near as much as the disc conversion
>
>kits.
>
> i am still working on the restoration , so i havent gotten to try the
>
>system out yet. i have heard from others with the same set up that it works
>
>great.
>


also , i didnt have to re-locate the pedal arm pin -or- get a different pedal
arm. i simply turned the booster push rod upside down. the flat spot on the
rod still sits flat to the brake light switch. by doing this , i only lost
about 1/2" of pedal hieght.

the booster and granada master cyl combo fits with no clearance problems at
all. dodged another high $$$ bullet with this set-up.

Jason

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Chris Russell (email redacted)

If I understand correctly you are using a pedal arm design for a manual
brake system with a power booster...

...FYI, you MAY have trouble with an over-sensitive brake pedal. Then
again, I haven't tried it myself, maybe it will be ok.

The reason that the power and manual brake pedals are different is to
provide a different amount of leverage. the power brakes intentionally
move the fulcrum so the mechanical advantage is reduced (versus the manual
brake pedal). i found the stock power brakes on my 68 mustang too touchy
with a power brake pedal -- I think with a manual brake pedal it would be
worse (maybe even undriveable).

the following describes what I am talking about:
thebrakeman.com/tech_info/pedal_ratios.htm

You may be aware of this, but another thing to watch out for is the brake
light switch... they are different for power and manual brakes. they fit,
but the spring is different. if you use the wrong one you may get brake
lights on when you don't expect, or may not get them on until you apply a
lot of pressure. the latter would be the case from using a manual switch
with a power booster and is the probably more dangerous case. Uh, guess
how I know... ;-)


Chris

At 03:10 PM 09/06/2000, (email redacted) wrote:

>In a message dated 9/6/2000 5:58:37 PM, (email redacted) writes:
>
> >Dave,
> >
> > i put granada front discs on mine and installed a power booster from
> >a
> >ford fairmont. it was all basically bolt in (except for the booster). the
> >
> >whole thing (booster included)didnt cost near as much as the disc conversion
> >
> >kits.
> >
> > i am still working on the restoration , so i havent gotten to try the
> >
> >system out yet. i have heard from others with the same set up that it works
> >
> >great.
> >
>
>
>also , i didnt have to re-locate the pedal arm pin -or- get a different pedal
>arm. i simply turned the booster push rod upside down. the flat spot on the
>rod still sits flat to the brake light switch. by doing this , i only lost
>about 1/2" of pedal hieght.
>
>the booster and granada master cyl combo fits with no clearance problems at
>all. dodged another high $$$ bullet with this set-up.
>
>Jason
>
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>(email redacted)
>mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs

--
Chris Russell
email: (email redacted)
web: chrisr.com

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Carlos Rigdon (email redacted)

I also did the Granada disc and used the Fairmont booster on my 65 Coupe
the brakes work great stops on a dime. The price was just under 300.00
with new calipers new rotors bearings seals and lines. Go this way parts
are cheap to replace down the road

(email redacted) wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> i put granada front discs on mine and installed a power booster from a
> ford fairmont. it was all basically bolt in (except for the booster). the
> whole thing (booster included)didnt cost near as much as the disc conversion
> kits.
>
> i am still working on the restoration , so i havent gotten to try the
> system out yet. i have heard from others with the same set up that it works
> great.
>
> hope this helps....
>
> Jason
> '66 coupe
> New Albany , IN
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs