Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Siwik (Randy Siwik)


Greetings all,

Well, After some period of leaking brake fluid (from somewhere
around the booster) and a 'hissing' sound, I've lost the power
brakes on my '70

Having never removed a booster or master cylinder I'm
turning to the experts here for some help. Thanks for any and all
advice you might be able to share.

1st) I've done a google search and can't seem to locate any
write ups or 'how to's' anybody know of any?

2nd) My Chiltons and Haynes aren't much help. They're
vague and say things like 'rebuild kits' and bench bleed.
This is one job I don't want to assume details on.
I looking for a; Step 1, Step 2, 3, 4, etc.
I assume I'll want to just purchase new or rebuilt parts,
not a 'rebuild parts kit'?

3rd) Some of my catalogues show the booster and MC
separate and together, should I get them together?

4th) I've got a late '69 built car, is this a 'bendix' or 'midland'
style? How to I tell the difference?

5th) I'd rather have quality over a few $$$ savings. I'm
thinking NAPA over Autozone or XXXX parts vendor.
Suggestions or opinions here?

6th) I've done all the work on this car myself (sans paint)
and I like being able to say that. Is this one of those jobs
best left to 'experts' or am I just nervous?

That's probably enough for now, Thanks if you're read this
far and more so if you reply.

Regards,
Randy Siwik '70 Mach 1 351W 4V
Central Ohio

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: eric (Eric E. Neumeister)

Randy,
The leaking fluid sounds like MC or brake line. The hissing and loss of
power brakes sounds like the Power Booster. I would remove both and take
them to the parts store with you so you can verify that everything matches
up the same (since I have no clue how to tell the difference between the two
types you mention).

To remove the MC you would
1) disconnect the brake lines at the MC.
2) there should be 2-4 nuts or bolts that attach the MC to the Power
Booster, disconnect those and pull the MC out.
NOTE: there is probably a small push rod between the MC and Power
Booster, make sure you don't lose it because I doubt that a new MC or Power
Booster will come with one.
3) The Power Booster has 2-4 studs on the back of it that go through the
Firewall and attach through the brake pedal hanger. Remove the nuts from
the studs
4) Disconnect the rod on the brake pedal (held on with a cotter pin) and
pull the booster out.

To install:
1) put the Power Booster back on
2) The new/rebuilt MC should come with a bench bleeding kit, if not pick one
up they are cheap. Attach the fittings where the brake lines would go and
route the rubber tubes back into the reservoir.
3) Fill the reservoir with Brake fluid (make sure the ends of the tubes are
completely submersed in fluid as to not take air back in.
4) take a screw driver or some sort of shaft to put in where the push rod
will go in the MC and depress and release repeatedly until no more air
bubbles come out of the tubes when depressing.
5) Leave the tubes and fittings attached as you remount the MC.
6) Disconnect one tube and attach the brake line. Repeat for the other
brake line.
7) Bleed the brakes starting at the passenger rear moving from the furthest
point from the MC to the nearest.

Hope this helps.

Eric
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Siwik" <(email redacted)>
To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
<(email redacted)>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 11:01 AM
Subject: [CM] Brake help...



Greetings all,

Well, After some period of leaking brake fluid (from somewhere
around the booster) and a 'hissing' sound, I've lost the power
brakes on my '70

Having never removed a booster or master cylinder I'm
turning to the experts here for some help. Thanks for any and all
advice you might be able to share.

1st) I've done a google search and can't seem to locate any
write ups or 'how to's' anybody know of any?

2nd) My Chiltons and Haynes aren't much help. They're
vague and say things like 'rebuild kits' and bench bleed.
This is one job I don't want to assume details on.
I looking for a; Step 1, Step 2, 3, 4, etc.
I assume I'll want to just purchase new or rebuilt parts,
not a 'rebuild parts kit'?

3rd) Some of my catalogues show the booster and MC
separate and together, should I get them together?

4th) I've got a late '69 built car, is this a 'bendix' or 'midland'
style? How to I tell the difference?

5th) I'd rather have quality over a few $$$ savings. I'm
thinking NAPA over Autozone or XXXX parts vendor.
Suggestions or opinions here?

6th) I've done all the work on this car myself (sans paint)
and I like being able to say that. Is this one of those jobs
best left to 'experts' or am I just nervous?

That's probably enough for now, Thanks if you're read this
far and more so if you reply.

Regards,
Randy Siwik '70 Mach 1 351W 4V
Central Ohio


_______________________________________________
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(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: walt.boeninger (Walt Boeninger)

Very good writeup, I'll add a couple of comments.

Eric E. Neumeister wrote:
>
> To remove the MC you would
> 1) disconnect the brake lines at the MC.
> 2) there should be 2-4 nuts or bolts that attach the MC to the Power
> Booster, disconnect those and pull the MC out.

2 nuts on all early Mustangs. 9/16" I believe.

> NOTE: there is probably a small push rod between the MC and Power
> Booster, make sure you don't lose it because I doubt that a new MC or Power
> Booster will come with one.

It is also *adjustable* . Do not re-adjust. It needs to fit
exactly between the booster and MC, too long and the brakes
can drag, too loose and there will be a dlay in braking.
Shop manual describes how to adjust if needed.

> 3) The Power Booster has 2-4 studs on the back of it that go through the
> Firewall and attach through the brake pedal hanger. Remove the nuts from
> the studs

There is one bolt from the engine side, at least on 67s there is.
And disconnect the vacuum line.


> 4) Disconnect the rod on the brake pedal (held on with a cotter pin) and
> pull the booster out.

Make a note of how the brakelight switch is installed, you will
forget!


> To install:
> 1) put the Power Booster back on
> 2) The new/rebuilt MC should come with a bench bleeding kit, if not pick one
> up they are cheap. Attach the fittings where the brake lines would go and
> route the rubber tubes back into the reservoir.
> 3) Fill the reservoir with Brake fluid (make sure the ends of the tubes are
> completely submersed in fluid as to not take air back in.
> 4) take a screw driver or some sort of shaft to put in where the push rod
> will go in the MC and depress and release repeatedly until no more air
> bubbles come out of the tubes when depressing.

A bench vise is almost mandatory to hold the MC.

> 5) Leave the tubes and fittings attached as you remount the MC.
> 6) Disconnect one tube and attach the brake line. Repeat for the other
> brake line.
> 7) Bleed the brakes starting at the passenger rear moving from the furthest
> point from the MC to the nearest.
>
> Hope this helps.


Walt
-----