Classic Mustangs List Archive
Ball Joint Removal
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mailbot
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Topic Creator (OP)
Jun 18, 2001 12:49 PM
Joined 15 years ago
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Mail From: (email redacted) (Dorny, Brett)
I am somewhat new at automotive repair, but am enjoying working on my 65
convertible. I am trying to rebuild the front suspension. However, I
can't get the lower ball joints out of the steering knuckle. I created
a tool like that shown in the shop manual. It loosend the upper joints
fine, but the lower ones won't budge. I also tried a ball joint
separator, but they still will not move. I would appreciate any
suggestions. I am replacing the lower control arms and ball joints, but
don't want to ruin the steering knuckle. Thanks
Brett Dorny
65 Convertible
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Mail From: (email redacted) (Dorny, Brett)
I am somewhat new at automotive repair, but am enjoying working on my 65
convertible. I am trying to rebuild the front suspension. However, I
can't get the lower ball joints out of the steering knuckle. I created
a tool like that shown in the shop manual. It loosend the upper joints
fine, but the lower ones won't budge. I also tried a ball joint
separator, but they still will not move. I would appreciate any
suggestions. I am replacing the lower control arms and ball joints, but
don't want to ruin the steering knuckle. Thanks
Brett Dorny
65 Convertible
STATEMENT OF CONFIDENTIALITY
The information contained in this electronic message and any attachments
to this message are intended for the exclusive use of the addressee(s)
and may contain confidential or privileged information. If you are not
the intended recipient, please notify Mintz, Levin, Cohn, Ferris, Glovsky
and Popeo, P.C. immediately at either (617) 542-6000, (202) 434-7300, (212) 935-3000,
or at (email redacted), and destroy all copies of this message and any attachments.
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mailbot
Mail List Archive Bot
., Online, USA
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Topic Creator (OP)
Jun 18, 2001 10:25 PM
Joined 15 years ago
59,279 Posts
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Chris Kelly)
The best method I've used is to create some tension between the arm and the
spindle with a wedgie device (joint separator) or pry bar. Then, whack the
hell out of the spindle at the ball joint attachment point with a 2 or 3 lb
hammer. This distorts the tapered hole and can allow the ball joint taper
to come free. Sounds bogus to someone that hasn't done it or seen the
technique used, but it works. An experienced wrecking yard hand can
release a spindle in two whacks. Note: it may take you several whacks.
ASCII art here:
Spindle arm (looking down)
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v
----
O ) <---strike here
----
========The Kelly's==============
Chris - (email redacted)
Debbie - (email redacted)
users.abilene.com/~dkelly
Merkel, Texas
67 Falcon, 67 Mustang
=================================
Mail From: (email redacted) (Chris Kelly)
The best method I've used is to create some tension between the arm and the
spindle with a wedgie device (joint separator) or pry bar. Then, whack the
hell out of the spindle at the ball joint attachment point with a 2 or 3 lb
hammer. This distorts the tapered hole and can allow the ball joint taper
to come free. Sounds bogus to someone that hasn't done it or seen the
technique used, but it works. An experienced wrecking yard hand can
release a spindle in two whacks. Note: it may take you several whacks.
ASCII art here:
Spindle arm (looking down)
|
v
----
O ) <---strike here
----
========The Kelly's==============
Chris - (email redacted)
Debbie - (email redacted)
users.abilene.com/~dkelly
Merkel, Texas
67 Falcon, 67 Mustang
=================================
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