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Aluminum Radiator Pains

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Mail From: ffacker (Fred Facker)

Hey everyone. In August I had to replace my copper 4-row radiator on my 66 289 automatic, and I opted to go with the aluminum 2-row that Mustang Plus sells for about $325. It's the Northern brand. Anyway, I was assured that this thing would cool better than a copper. It didn't. Anytime I started sitting in stop and go traffic, I immediately saw the temp gauge start creeping up, and had to shut off the A/C to avoid overheating. It was adequate, but just barely. Then in December I noticed that my transmission was dumping fluid everywhere. This was bad since I'd just had it rebuilt in June. They had to pull it again, replace all the seals and the torque converter. The verdict, it was overheating because the cooler in that aluminum radiator was working well enough. They put an external cooler on it to solve that problem. As it's currently winter in Houston, the radiator is doing it's job for now, but I have no doubt that by May I'll most likely have to change that thing out again
if I
want to use A/C at all this summer.

Total disappointment in this product, and it's now cost me another $1,000 in rental car fees and labor due to my transmission problems.
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Mail From: Todd.Styles (Todd Styles)

I used to have chronic overheating issues with my '65. I had a 4-core
"desert cooler" radiator and it still overheated. I replaced that with
a 3-core radiator, an aftermarket 3" fan shroud and a plastic
multi-blade fan (8 or 9 blades) w/ a fan clutch that I took off a late
80's Ford Ranger. I have absolutely no issue with overheating and it's
well over 100 here in Memphis during the summer. I'm positive the
difference is the big shroud and the fan/clutch assembly.

Todd.



________________________________

From: (email redacted)
[mailtosad smileyemail redacted)] On Behalf Of Fred
Facker
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 2:49 PM
To: Mustang List-serv
Subject: [CM] Aluminum Radiator Pains



Hey everyone. In August I had to replace my copper 4-row radiator on my
66 289 automatic, and I opted to go with the aluminum 2-row that Mustang
Plus sells for about $325. It's the Northern brand. Anyway, I was
assured that this thing would cool better than a copper. It didn't.
Anytime I started sitting in stop and go traffic, I immediately saw the
temp gauge start creeping up, and had to shut off the A/C to avoid
overheating. It was adequate, but just barely. Then in December I
noticed that my transmission was dumping fluid everywhere. This was bad
since I'd just had it rebuilt in June. They had to pull it again,
replace all the seals and the torque converter. The verdict, it was
overheating because the cooler in that aluminum radiator was working
well enough. They put an external cooler on it to solve that problem. As
it's currently winter in Houston, the radiator is doing it's job for
now, but I have no doubt that by May I'll most likely have to change t
hat thing out again if I want to use A/C at all this summer.



Total disappointment in this product, and it's now cost me another
$1,000 in rental car fees and labor due to my transmission problems.




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Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)


On Jan 23, 2006, at 1:05 PM, Todd Styles wrote:

> I used to have chronic overheating issues with my '65. I had a 4-core
> "desert cooler" radiator and it still overheated. I replaced that
> with
> a 3-core radiator, an aftermarket 3" fan shroud and a plastic
> multi-blade fan (8 or 9 blades) w/ a fan clutch that I took off a late
> 80's Ford Ranger. I have absolutely no issue with overheating and
> it's
> well over 100 here in Memphis during the summer. I'm positive the
> difference is the big shroud and the fan/clutch assembly.


I had an overheating problem too and corrected it by doing the
following:

- Replaced the thermostat with a 180 degree model (the one that was
on there was a 195 degree)
- Installed a standard 3-row radiator from Mustangs Plus (~ $169?)
with transmission cooler in and outlets.
- Installed a flex-a-lite fan and spacer which moved the fan up to
about an inch away from the radiator.
- Installed an expansion tank (stainless steel vertical tank mounts
to one side of the radiator).
- I think the stock system was pressurized at 14lbs. The radiator cap
I put on there is rated for 13lbs

I've driven the car with this setup in 100 degree heat in California
traffic so far so good.

I'll be climbing the highway 5 grapevine heading to Los Angeles on
Thursday, that's the ultimate test (huge grade, little wind, very warm)

When I was at Mustangs Plus they tried to sell me the $500 Griffin
but I passed on it. I don't think I'd even consider the other brands
of aluminum radiator that they sell.


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Mail From: jmanley (Jay Manley)

Fred,

You can't go from a 4-row copper to a 2-row aluminum and think that it's going to get BETTER!!! You only have 1/2 the radiator, and likely a 1/3rd less fluid in the system. Aluminum isn't some magic metal that dissapates twice the heat.

Plus, you haven't mentioned the type of shroud you are using, the type of fan and it's size, etc.

If you went with a 4-row aluminum and had these issues I might feel more of your pain...

Jay
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Facker
To: Mustang List-serv
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 02:48 PM
Subject: [CM] Aluminum Radiator Pains


Hey everyone. In August I had to replace my copper 4-row radiator on my 66 289 automatic, and I opted to go with the aluminum 2-row that Mustang Plus sells for about $325. It's the Northern brand. Anyway, I was assured that this thing would cool better than a copper. It didn't. Anytime I started sitting in stop and go traffic, I immediately saw the temp gauge start creeping up, and had to shut off the A/C to avoid overheating. It was adequate, but just barely. Then in December I noticed that my transmission was dumping fluid everywhere. This was bad since I'd just had it rebuilt in June. They had to pull it again, replace all the seals and the torque converter. The verdict, it was overheating because the cooler in that aluminum radiator was working well enough. They put an external cooler on it to solve that problem. As it's currently winter in Houston, the radiator is doing it's job for now, but I have no doubt that by May I'll most likely have to change t hat thing out again if I want to use A/C at all this summer.

Total disappointment in this product, and it's now cost me another $1,000 in rental car fees and labor due to my transmission problems.


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Mail From: ckelly (ckelly)

The tubes in an AL radiator are larger and have more surface area exposeed
compared to a copper/brass unit. That's what makes it more efficient than a
copper/brass unit. It just radiates heat better. Try to find something with
more than two tubes in any modern car. I went from a custom 4 core, 18" fan
and shroud to a generic 2 core 1" tube AL radiator with a pair of OEM
electrics from a Camaro and have better cooling. Also, using a hotter t-stat
is usually better - the hotter the working fluid, the better the heat
dissapation. Note that a 4 core std unit is only going to be maybe 10~20%
better -if at all- than a 3 core because the air can't move through it as well.

There may be other factors at work on this problem.

On Mon, 23 Jan 2006 16:02:53 -0600, Jay Manley wrote
> Fred,
>
> You can't go from a 4-row copper to a 2-row aluminum and think that
> it's going to get BETTER!!! You only have 1/2 the radiator, and
> likely a 1/3rd less fluid in the system. Aluminum isn't some magic
> metal that dissapates twice the heat.
>
> Plus, you haven't mentioned the type of shroud you are using, the
> type of fan and it's size, etc.
>
> If you went with a 4-row aluminum and had these issues I might feel
> more of your pain...
>
> Jay


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Mail From: dinn (Michael 'Moose' Dinn)

> Total disappointment in this product, and it's now cost me another $1,000 in rental car fees and labor due to my transmission problems.

Ouch!

That's never fun. On the transmission side, are you sure there's no kinked
lines? I had a friend who had a kinked line on a Bronco II that caused him no
end of problems and replacing the line made them all go away immediately.

The fact that he'd spent +/- 1K$ at another garage did not make him a happy
camper when he had the problem fixed for <$50 somewhere else.


--
Michael 'Moose' Dinn -- Network Manager -- LandlordIT
902 420 1451 -- (email redacted)


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Mail From: w427 (David)

Having had my share of cooling woes, I suggest this reading. Are you
ready to learn more than you ever wanted to know about cooling systems
in classic Fords? Mike the Radiator Man has a 6-part article on cooling
systems centered on Fairlanes, but 99% applicable to Mustangs, Cougars,
Falcons and such. It does address some of the myths and twisted facts
surrounding copper, brass and aluminum construction as well. Nothing is
gospel, but this info is a solid base.

The whole series is on Woody G's Fairlane site and starts here -
woodyg.com/fairlane/finfo/coolingsystem1.html

The nitty gritty on just the radiator part is here -
woodyg.com/fairlane/finfo/coolingsystem6.html
however, is is the last section on purpose, as the first 5 sections must
be understood and followed to have a solid system and the rad is just
the easy last part people throw money at.

Just to be irritating ;-) I'm personally running a 430hp 351w stroked to
427ci on a 2-row copper Ford (yes, TWO row) 289/302/351 non-A/C radiator
on the street and it's been in 108? heat. It never gets hot and I have
a rather heavy foot. On the other hand, I made sure all the other parts
were up-to-snuff before I got to the radiator. It truly is a 'system'
and attention to detail really pays off.

Heck, I need to read it all again as it's been updated...

Hope that helps!
David


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