Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: (email redacted) (Dorny, Brett)

I am almost done rebuilding the front suspension on my 65 convertible.
I did the 1" upper arm drop. Shortly, I will need to redo the
alignment. Following the Shop Manual instructions seems easy enough,
but I thought I might ask for any pointers, since this will be the first
time I do it. My real concern is changing the shims. How easy is it to
add or remove shims? Do you just lossen the inner shaft nuts or do I
have to remove something else?

Also, I am adding an export brace. The distance between the shock
towers and the cowl seems a little short, i.e. the holes do not quite
line up by about 3/8". I have heard about the shock towers sagging
inward, but not necessarily backward. Am I doing anything wrong, or do
I just need to get the brace in?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Brett Dorny
65 Convertible, 200ci, 3sp

STATEMENT OF CONFIDENTIALITY
The information contained in this electronic message and any attachments
to this message are intended for the exclusive use of the addressee(s)
and may contain confidential or privileged information. If you are not
the intended recipient, please notify Mintz, Levin, Cohn, Ferris, Glovsky
and Popeo, P.C. immediately at either (617) 542-6000, (202) 434-7300, (212) 935-3000,
or at (email redacted), and destroy all copies of this message and any attachments.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Randy Siwik)

Brett,
Wow, That's some 'STATEMENT OF CONFIDENTIALITY'.
You must work for a law firm (I was almost afraid to reply ;-)

A couple of times a year, we get into the 'How do you get an
export brace/monte bar to fit?' topic going.

You might want to check the archives, the link is below.
The answer is somewhere between using a porta power
and having three friends jump up and down of the front
of the car while it's up on jacks.

I still have never got my export brace to fit right, even
after having it cut down.

Good Luck.
Randy '70 Mach 1
Central Ohio


"Dorny, Brett" wrote:

> [snip],,,,,
> Also, I am adding an export brace. The distance between the shock
> towers and the cowl seems a little short, i.e. the holes do not quite
> line up by about 3/8". I have heard about the shock towers sagging
> inward, but not necessarily backward. Am I doing anything wrong, or do
> I just need to get the brace in?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Brett Dorny
> 65 Convertible, 200ci, 3sp
>
> STATEMENT OF CONFIDENTIALITY
> The information contained in this electronic message and any attachments
> to this message are intended for the exclusive use of the addressee(s)
> and may contain confidential or privileged information. If you are not
> the intended recipient, please notify Mintz, Levin, Cohn, Ferris, Glovsky
> and Popeo, P.C. immediately at either (617) 542-6000, (202) 434-7300, (212) 935-3000,
> or at (email redacted), and destroy all copies of this message and any attachments.
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> mix.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo/classic-mustangs

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Wal Marshall)

Brett,

> I am almost done rebuilding the front suspension on my 65 convertible.
> I did the 1" upper arm drop. Shortly, I will need to redo the
> alignment. Following the Shop Manual instructions seems easy enough,
> but I thought I might ask for any pointers, since this will be the first
> time I do it. My real concern is changing the shims. How easy is it to
> add or remove shims? Do you just lossen the inner shaft nuts or do I
> have to remove something else?

Ive just done this job....dropping the arms and realigning the suspension.

As I also installed a TCP rack and pinion steering conversion, which
replaced the adjustable lower suspension arm pivot bolts on my 70 with solid
plates adjustable into only three positions. Therefore I had to use shims on
the top arm to do the fine adjustment of camber.

I initially aligned the suspension camber and toe-in using careful visual
sighting with the weight on the car on the suspension, then when I was happy
it was "close", I drove to an alignment shop.

An initial measurement of the settings is taken, then camber, caster and toe
are set in that order.

There are at least 3 thicknesses of shims. If you have dropped the upper
arms, you will need about 1/3 inch less shims than before.

By backing off the mounting bolts inside the engine bay, and with the front
wheels hanging at full lower travel, its possible to lean in and using a
lever with a right angle bend at the end, the upper arm can be prised off
the shock tower wall. The existing shim packs can then be removed, (small
long nose vicegrips are great for that), measured and a new set installed
which are the required thickness. Once both sides are done and the bolts
retightened, the alignment is checked again to see if it needs a final small
adjustment.

Its all pretty straight forward.

If you are interested, Ive partly built a commentary about it on
www.nzmustang.com Go to the "Technical" section. There are still several
photos to be loaded.

Cheers

Wal Marshall