Classic Mustangs List Archive
Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
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Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)
The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it from said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment, it shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and continue counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn clockwise you take up the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for each cylinder in the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise 90 degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and 2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and 4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
Why the two different methods?
Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above using the 351 firing order.
My head hurts.
Mike
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Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)
The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it from said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment, it shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and continue counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn clockwise you take up the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for each cylinder in the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise 90 degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and 2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and 4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
Why the two different methods?
Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above using the 351 firing order.
My head hurts.
Mike
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Mail From: walt (Walt Boeninger)
I don't know why the two different methods.... Just follow your instinct.
It's less confusing and easier to NOT screwup, doing each cylinder in
order. You wind up turning the crank around twice... but so what?
That's better than trying to make sure you get the right valves...
That's what I do. It's not like you're in a hurry ..... that's
the only advantage to the other method....
Walt
-----
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
> The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it
> from said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still
> on the engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
>
> Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment,
> it shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
>
> For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and
> continue counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn
> clockwise you take up the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for
> each cylinder in the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
>
> For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise
> 90 degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8
> intake and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7
> intake and 2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5,
> & 6 intake and 4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
>
> Why the two different methods?
>
> Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above
> using the 351 firing order.
>
> My head hurts.
>
Mail From: walt (Walt Boeninger)
I don't know why the two different methods.... Just follow your instinct.
It's less confusing and easier to NOT screwup, doing each cylinder in
order. You wind up turning the crank around twice... but so what?
That's better than trying to make sure you get the right valves...
That's what I do. It's not like you're in a hurry ..... that's
the only advantage to the other method....
Walt
-----
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
> The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it
> from said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still
> on the engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
>
> Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment,
> it shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
>
> For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and
> continue counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn
> clockwise you take up the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for
> each cylinder in the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
>
> For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise
> 90 degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8
> intake and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7
> intake and 2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5,
> & 6 intake and 4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
>
> Why the two different methods?
>
> Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above
> using the 351 firing order.
>
> My head hurts.
>
|
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Mail From: dschmi (Dave)
If you have a 351cam installed (hence the statement it has a 351 firing
order), you should follow the procedure for adjusting the 351. I am
assuming that you have mechanical valves & not hydraulic valves, as
there is a much easier way to cold adjust hydraulic valves.
Dave
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
> The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought
> it from said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's
> still on the engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
>
> Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment,
> it shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
>
> For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and
> continue counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn
> clockwise you take up the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves
> for each cylinder in the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
>
> For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then
> counterclockwise 90 degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A"
> tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees
> at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and 2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to
> "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and 4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
>
> Why the two different methods?
>
> Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above
> using the 351 firing order.
>
> My head hurts.
>
> Mike
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>(email redacted)
>lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
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Mail From: dschmi (Dave)
If you have a 351cam installed (hence the statement it has a 351 firing
order), you should follow the procedure for adjusting the 351. I am
assuming that you have mechanical valves & not hydraulic valves, as
there is a much easier way to cold adjust hydraulic valves.
Dave
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
> The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought
> it from said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's
> still on the engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
>
> Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment,
> it shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
>
> For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and
> continue counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn
> clockwise you take up the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves
> for each cylinder in the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
>
> For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then
> counterclockwise 90 degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A"
> tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees
> at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and 2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to
> "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and 4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
>
> Why the two different methods?
>
> Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above
> using the 351 firing order.
>
> My head hurts.
>
> Mike
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>_______________________________________________
>Classic-mustangs mailing list
>(email redacted)
>lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
>Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
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Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)
Well, fortunately enough, the motor was not finished. The heads were not
torqued down to the block. So, I did have the opportunity to manually turn
the crank to verify the firing order.
I've been putting the rest together a little at a time, just like my
Mustang, making minor upgrades along the way...roller tip rockers, new
lifters & pushrods, Accel breakerless distributor, Weiand Stealth manifold,
Holey 4bbl & on and on...Hopefully this beast will fire up properly once
it's done.
I'm hoping to drop this & a T-5 in by the end of this month.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brandon Peskin" <(email redacted)>
To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
<(email redacted)>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
>
> On Apr 6, 2006, at 9:44 AM, MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
>
>> The mechanic I bought it from said that it has the 351 firing order
>> 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the engine stand, never ran since the
>> rebuild.
>
>
> By what component on the engine can you verify that statement?
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)
Well, fortunately enough, the motor was not finished. The heads were not
torqued down to the block. So, I did have the opportunity to manually turn
the crank to verify the firing order.
I've been putting the rest together a little at a time, just like my
Mustang, making minor upgrades along the way...roller tip rockers, new
lifters & pushrods, Accel breakerless distributor, Weiand Stealth manifold,
Holey 4bbl & on and on...Hopefully this beast will fire up properly once
it's done.
I'm hoping to drop this & a T-5 in by the end of this month.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brandon Peskin" <(email redacted)>
To: "A list for owners of Classic Mustangs"
<(email redacted)>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
>
> On Apr 6, 2006, at 9:44 AM, MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
>
>> The mechanic I bought it from said that it has the 351 firing order
>> 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the engine stand, never ran since the
>> rebuild.
>
>
> By what component on the engine can you verify that statement?
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> (email redacted)
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
|
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Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)
I have hydraulic lifters.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
If you have a 351cam installed (hence the statement it has a 351 firing order), you should follow the procedure for adjusting the 351. I am assuming that you have mechanical valves & not hydraulic valves, as there is a much easier way to cold adjust hydraulic valves.
Dave
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it from said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment, it shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and continue counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn clockwise you take up the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for each cylinder in the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise 90 degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and 2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and 4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
Why the two different methods?
Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above using the 351 firing order.
My head hurts.
Mike
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)
I have hydraulic lifters.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
If you have a 351cam installed (hence the statement it has a 351 firing order), you should follow the procedure for adjusting the 351. I am assuming that you have mechanical valves & not hydraulic valves, as there is a much easier way to cold adjust hydraulic valves.
Dave
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it from said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment, it shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and continue counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn clockwise you take up the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for each cylinder in the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise 90 degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and 2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and 4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
Why the two different methods?
Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above using the 351 firing order.
My head hurts.
Mike
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
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Mail From: ckelly (Chris Kelly)
Do you have screw in studs and guide plates on the heads (meaning they are
adjustable)?
=====================================
Chris Kelly - (email redacted)
raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================
_____
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of MICHAEL
MASTROIANNI
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 6:02 PM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
I have hydraulic lifters.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave <mailtoemail redacted)>
To: A list for owners of <mailtoemail redacted)>
Classic Mustangs
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
If you have a 351cam installed (hence the statement it has a 351 firing
order), you should follow the procedure for adjusting the 351. I am
assuming that you have mechanical valves & not hydraulic valves, as there is
a much easier way to cold adjust hydraulic valves.
Dave
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it from
said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the
engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment, it
shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and continue
counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn clockwise you take up
the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for each cylinder in the
firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise 90
degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake
and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and
2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and
4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
Why the two different methods?
Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above using
the 351 firing order.
My head hurts.
Mike
_____
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_____
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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Mail From: ckelly (Chris Kelly)
Do you have screw in studs and guide plates on the heads (meaning they are
adjustable)?
=====================================
Chris Kelly - (email redacted)
raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================
_____
From: (email redacted)
[mailto
email redacted)] On Behalf Of MICHAELMASTROIANNI
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 6:02 PM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
I have hydraulic lifters.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave <mailto
email redacted)> To: A list for owners of <mailto
email redacted)>Classic Mustangs
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
If you have a 351cam installed (hence the statement it has a 351 firing
order), you should follow the procedure for adjusting the 351. I am
assuming that you have mechanical valves & not hydraulic valves, as there is
a much easier way to cold adjust hydraulic valves.
Dave
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it from
said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the
engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment, it
shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and continue
counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn clockwise you take up
the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for each cylinder in the
firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise 90
degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake
and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and
2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and
4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
Why the two different methods?
Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above using
the 351 firing order.
My head hurts.
Mike
_____
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_____
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)
No, these are '66 heads with the pressed in studs and slotted (not round) pushrod holes.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Kelly
To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: RE: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
Do you have screw in studs and guide plates on the heads (meaning they are adjustable)?
=====================================
Chris Kelly - (email redacted)
raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: (email redacted) [mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of MICHAEL MASTROIANNI
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 6:02 PM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
I have hydraulic lifters.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
If you have a 351cam installed (hence the statement it has a 351 firing order), you should follow the procedure for adjusting the 351. I am assuming that you have mechanical valves & not hydraulic valves, as there is a much easier way to cold adjust hydraulic valves.
Dave
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it from said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment, it shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and continue counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn clockwise you take up the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for each cylinder in the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise 90 degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and 2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and 4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
Why the two different methods?
Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above using the 351 firing order.
My head hurts.
Mike
------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
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Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)
No, these are '66 heads with the pressed in studs and slotted (not round) pushrod holes.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Kelly
To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: RE: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
Do you have screw in studs and guide plates on the heads (meaning they are adjustable)?
=====================================
Chris Kelly - (email redacted)
raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: (email redacted) [mailto
email redacted)] On Behalf Of MICHAEL MASTROIANNISent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 6:02 PM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
I have hydraulic lifters.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
If you have a 351cam installed (hence the statement it has a 351 firing order), you should follow the procedure for adjusting the 351. I am assuming that you have mechanical valves & not hydraulic valves, as there is a much easier way to cold adjust hydraulic valves.
Dave
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it from said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment, it shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and continue counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn clockwise you take up the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for each cylinder in the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise 90 degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and 2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and 4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
Why the two different methods?
Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above using the 351 firing order.
My head hurts.
Mike
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Mail From: mkupec (Michael J. Kupec)
If they have slotted pushrod holes, then they are early 65 heads and they
use non-rail type rockers with chrome molly pushrods (NOT cheep steel
ones!). In late 65 Ford changed the valve train to a cheaper design by
drilling the holed in the heads for the push rods into a round shape and
installing cheaper (weaker) steel pushrods with the 'rail' type rocker arms
These type of rocker arms have little shoulders on the valve tip end to keep
them centered on the valve stem and so don't need the slotted hole in the
head.
I learned all this the hard way when I discovered I had a couple of bent
pushrods in my 65's newly rebuilt 289. I went to the local CarQuest store
and bought a couple replacement pushrods, put them in the engine and
adjusted the valves. A week later I took the cover off to re-adjust
everything and the replacement pushrods had a nice notch cleanly machined in
them down where they rested against the slotted holes in the heads. Going
back into the store we looked further in the catalog and found that there
was a 'special' note for 64 to mid 65 289's that the listed pushrod was not
recommended. I did a scratch test on one of the bent rods and we discovered
it was chrome molly steel. Along with the above changes, Ford also changed
the timing chain and gears in mid-65. They went from an all steel gear set &
wide chain to a cheap nylon/pot metal cam gear and thinner chain. The
earlier gear set is almost as good as a roller chain set, jut still has the
parasitic HP loss that the rollers on the roller chain help to eliminate.
BTW: If you have a hydraulic cam, just set each cylinder to it's TDC with
both valves closed and tighten down their respective rocker nuts until you
see the cup in the lifter just start to push in. After you've started the
engine and done the new cam break-in run, with the engine idling, you can go
back and adjust the lifters by backing off one at a time till you hear it
clacking, then turn the nut back down till it stops and then give it an
additional 3/4 turn. Some people say you can turn it in up to 1 1/2 turns,
but 3/4's is adequate. Be prepared to have oil everywhere, unless you fab
some valve covers with the tops cut off so they catch the oil flowing off
the rockers.
Another note - if you have put in a higher lift cam, you may want to
consider having the pressed in studs changed out to screw in ones. Cams with
a good bit of lift tend to push out the pressed in studs. You can have them
pinned, but that just weakens the stud by removing material it needs to hold
it in the head.
Michael J. Kupec
(email redacted)
<blueovalcorral.com/> blueovalcorral.com
Frodo failed...
Bush has the ring!
_____
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of MICHAEL
MASTROIANNI
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 6:33 AM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
No, these are '66 heads with the pressed in studs and slotted (not round)
pushrod holes.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris <mailtoemail redacted)> Kelly
To: 'A list for owners of <mailtoemail redacted)>
Classic Mustangs'
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: RE: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
Do you have screw in studs and guide plates on the heads (meaning they are
adjustable)?
=====================================
Chris Kelly - (email redacted)
raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================
_____
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of MICHAEL
MASTROIANNI
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 6:02 PM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
I have hydraulic lifters.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave <mailtoemail redacted)>
To: A list for owners of <mailtoemail redacted)>
Classic Mustangs
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
If you have a 351cam installed (hence the statement it has a 351 firing
order), you should follow the procedure for adjusting the 351. I am
assuming that you have mechanical valves & not hydraulic valves, as there is
a much easier way to cold adjust hydraulic valves.
Dave
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it from
said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the
engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment, it
shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and continue
counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn clockwise you take up
the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for each cylinder in the
firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise 90
degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake
and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and
2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and
4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
Why the two different methods?
Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above using
the 351 firing order.
My head hurts.
Mike
_____
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_____
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_____
_______________________________________________
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Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
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Mail From: mkupec (Michael J. Kupec)
If they have slotted pushrod holes, then they are early 65 heads and they
use non-rail type rockers with chrome molly pushrods (NOT cheep steel
ones!). In late 65 Ford changed the valve train to a cheaper design by
drilling the holed in the heads for the push rods into a round shape and
installing cheaper (weaker) steel pushrods with the 'rail' type rocker arms
These type of rocker arms have little shoulders on the valve tip end to keep
them centered on the valve stem and so don't need the slotted hole in the
head.
I learned all this the hard way when I discovered I had a couple of bent
pushrods in my 65's newly rebuilt 289. I went to the local CarQuest store
and bought a couple replacement pushrods, put them in the engine and
adjusted the valves. A week later I took the cover off to re-adjust
everything and the replacement pushrods had a nice notch cleanly machined in
them down where they rested against the slotted holes in the heads. Going
back into the store we looked further in the catalog and found that there
was a 'special' note for 64 to mid 65 289's that the listed pushrod was not
recommended. I did a scratch test on one of the bent rods and we discovered
it was chrome molly steel. Along with the above changes, Ford also changed
the timing chain and gears in mid-65. They went from an all steel gear set &
wide chain to a cheap nylon/pot metal cam gear and thinner chain. The
earlier gear set is almost as good as a roller chain set, jut still has the
parasitic HP loss that the rollers on the roller chain help to eliminate.
BTW: If you have a hydraulic cam, just set each cylinder to it's TDC with
both valves closed and tighten down their respective rocker nuts until you
see the cup in the lifter just start to push in. After you've started the
engine and done the new cam break-in run, with the engine idling, you can go
back and adjust the lifters by backing off one at a time till you hear it
clacking, then turn the nut back down till it stops and then give it an
additional 3/4 turn. Some people say you can turn it in up to 1 1/2 turns,
but 3/4's is adequate. Be prepared to have oil everywhere, unless you fab
some valve covers with the tops cut off so they catch the oil flowing off
the rockers.
Another note - if you have put in a higher lift cam, you may want to
consider having the pressed in studs changed out to screw in ones. Cams with
a good bit of lift tend to push out the pressed in studs. You can have them
pinned, but that just weakens the stud by removing material it needs to hold
it in the head.
Michael J. Kupec
(email redacted)
<blueovalcorral.com/> blueovalcorral.com
Frodo failed...
Bush has the ring!
_____
From: (email redacted)
[mailto
email redacted)] On Behalf Of MICHAELMASTROIANNI
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 6:33 AM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
No, these are '66 heads with the pressed in studs and slotted (not round)
pushrod holes.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris <mailto
email redacted)> Kelly To: 'A list for owners of <mailto
email redacted)>Classic Mustangs'
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: RE: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
Do you have screw in studs and guide plates on the heads (meaning they are
adjustable)?
=====================================
Chris Kelly - (email redacted)
raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================
_____
From: (email redacted)
[mailto
email redacted)] On Behalf Of MICHAELMASTROIANNI
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 6:02 PM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
I have hydraulic lifters.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave <mailto
email redacted)> To: A list for owners of <mailto
email redacted)>Classic Mustangs
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
If you have a 351cam installed (hence the statement it has a 351 firing
order), you should follow the procedure for adjusting the 351. I am
assuming that you have mechanical valves & not hydraulic valves, as there is
a much easier way to cold adjust hydraulic valves.
Dave
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it from
said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the
engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment, it
shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and continue
counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn clockwise you take up
the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for each cylinder in the
firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise 90
degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake
and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and
2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and
4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
Why the two different methods?
Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above using
the 351 firing order.
My head hurts.
Mike
_____
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_____
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
_____
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
-------------- next part --------------
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|
|
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|
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Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)
THANKS,
A lot of good info in your reply.
My heads are stamped "66" so I have to believe they are. I did buy the common steel pushrods. But it's not that big a deal to swap those out if I do encounter the problem you described.
As far as the cam goes...it was described to me as a "mild rv cam". So, hopefully the pressed in studs are not going to be an issue.
Thanks Again,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael J. Kupec
To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 8:58 AM
Subject: RE: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
If they have slotted pushrod holes, then they are early 65 heads and they use non-rail type rockers with chrome molly pushrods (NOT cheep steel ones!). In late 65 Ford changed the valve train to a cheaper design by drilling the holed in the heads for the push rods into a round shape and installing cheaper (weaker) steel pushrods with the 'rail' type rocker arms These type of rocker arms have little shoulders on the valve tip end to keep them centered on the valve stem and so don't need the slotted hole in the head.
I learned all this the hard way when I discovered I had a couple of bent pushrods in my 65's newly rebuilt 289. I went to the local CarQuest store and bought a couple replacement pushrods, put them in the engine and adjusted the valves. A week later I took the cover off to re-adjust everything and the replacement pushrods had a nice notch cleanly machined in them down where they rested against the slotted holes in the heads. Going back into the store we looked further in the catalog and found that there was a 'special' note for 64 to mid 65 289's that the listed pushrod was not recommended. I did a scratch test on one of the bent rods and we discovered it was chrome molly steel. Along with the above changes, Ford also changed the timing chain and gears in mid-65. They went from an all steel gear set & wide chain to a cheap nylon/pot metal cam gear and thinner chain. The earlier gear set is almost as good as a roller chain set, jut still has the parasitic HP loss that the rollers on the roller chain help to eliminate.
BTW: If you have a hydraulic cam, just set each cylinder to it's TDC with both valves closed and tighten down their respective rocker nuts until you see the cup in the lifter just start to push in. After you've started the engine and done the new cam break-in run, with the engine idling, you can go back and adjust the lifters by backing off one at a time till you hear it clacking, then turn the nut back down till it stops and then give it an additional 3/4 turn. Some people say you can turn it in up to 1 1/2 turns, but 3/4's is adequate. Be prepared to have oil everywhere, unless you fab some valve covers with the tops cut off so they catch the oil flowing off the rockers.
Another note - if you have put in a higher lift cam, you may want to consider having the pressed in studs changed out to screw in ones. Cams with a good bit of lift tend to push out the pressed in studs. You can have them pinned, but that just weakens the stud by removing material it needs to hold it in the head.
Michael J. Kupec
(email redacted)
blueovalcorral.com
Frodo failed...
Bush has the ring!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: (email redacted) [mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of MICHAEL MASTROIANNI
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 6:33 AM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
No, these are '66 heads with the pressed in studs and slotted (not round) pushrod holes.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Kelly
To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: RE: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
Do you have screw in studs and guide plates on the heads (meaning they are adjustable)?
=====================================
Chris Kelly - (email redacted)
raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: (email redacted) [mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of MICHAEL MASTROIANNI
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 6:02 PM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
I have hydraulic lifters.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
If you have a 351cam installed (hence the statement it has a 351 firing order), you should follow the procedure for adjusting the 351. I am assuming that you have mechanical valves & not hydraulic valves, as there is a much easier way to cold adjust hydraulic valves.
Dave
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it from said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment, it shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and continue counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn clockwise you take up the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for each cylinder in the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise 90 degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and 2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and 4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
Why the two different methods?
Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above using the 351 firing order.
My head hurts.
Mike
--------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
----------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Mail From: mastros (MICHAEL MASTROIANNI)
THANKS,
A lot of good info in your reply.
My heads are stamped "66" so I have to believe they are. I did buy the common steel pushrods. But it's not that big a deal to swap those out if I do encounter the problem you described.
As far as the cam goes...it was described to me as a "mild rv cam". So, hopefully the pressed in studs are not going to be an issue.
Thanks Again,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael J. Kupec
To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 8:58 AM
Subject: RE: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
If they have slotted pushrod holes, then they are early 65 heads and they use non-rail type rockers with chrome molly pushrods (NOT cheep steel ones!). In late 65 Ford changed the valve train to a cheaper design by drilling the holed in the heads for the push rods into a round shape and installing cheaper (weaker) steel pushrods with the 'rail' type rocker arms These type of rocker arms have little shoulders on the valve tip end to keep them centered on the valve stem and so don't need the slotted hole in the head.
I learned all this the hard way when I discovered I had a couple of bent pushrods in my 65's newly rebuilt 289. I went to the local CarQuest store and bought a couple replacement pushrods, put them in the engine and adjusted the valves. A week later I took the cover off to re-adjust everything and the replacement pushrods had a nice notch cleanly machined in them down where they rested against the slotted holes in the heads. Going back into the store we looked further in the catalog and found that there was a 'special' note for 64 to mid 65 289's that the listed pushrod was not recommended. I did a scratch test on one of the bent rods and we discovered it was chrome molly steel. Along with the above changes, Ford also changed the timing chain and gears in mid-65. They went from an all steel gear set & wide chain to a cheap nylon/pot metal cam gear and thinner chain. The earlier gear set is almost as good as a roller chain set, jut still has the parasitic HP loss that the rollers on the roller chain help to eliminate.
BTW: If you have a hydraulic cam, just set each cylinder to it's TDC with both valves closed and tighten down their respective rocker nuts until you see the cup in the lifter just start to push in. After you've started the engine and done the new cam break-in run, with the engine idling, you can go back and adjust the lifters by backing off one at a time till you hear it clacking, then turn the nut back down till it stops and then give it an additional 3/4 turn. Some people say you can turn it in up to 1 1/2 turns, but 3/4's is adequate. Be prepared to have oil everywhere, unless you fab some valve covers with the tops cut off so they catch the oil flowing off the rockers.
Another note - if you have put in a higher lift cam, you may want to consider having the pressed in studs changed out to screw in ones. Cams with a good bit of lift tend to push out the pressed in studs. You can have them pinned, but that just weakens the stud by removing material it needs to hold it in the head.
Michael J. Kupec
(email redacted)
blueovalcorral.com
Frodo failed...
Bush has the ring!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: (email redacted) [mailto
email redacted)] On Behalf Of MICHAEL MASTROIANNISent: Friday, April 07, 2006 6:33 AM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
No, these are '66 heads with the pressed in studs and slotted (not round) pushrod holes.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Kelly
To: 'A list for owners of Classic Mustangs'
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: RE: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
Do you have screw in studs and guide plates on the heads (meaning they are adjustable)?
=====================================
Chris Kelly - (email redacted)
raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Merkel, Texas
Member:
International Hot Rod Association
Abilene Performance Car Association
Falcon Club of America
=====================================
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: (email redacted) [mailto
email redacted)] On Behalf Of MICHAEL MASTROIANNISent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 6:02 PM
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
I have hydraulic lifters.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave
To: A list for owners of Classic Mustangs
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [CM] Adjusting Valves on a 289 with 351 firing order?
If you have a 351cam installed (hence the statement it has a 351 firing order), you should follow the procedure for adjusting the 351. I am assuming that you have mechanical valves & not hydraulic valves, as there is a much easier way to cold adjust hydraulic valves.
Dave
MICHAEL MASTROIANNI wrote:
The motor I have is a 1965 289 with '66 heads. The mechanic I bought it from said that it has the 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It's still on the engine stand, never ran since the rebuild.
Referring to my Chilton's manual for the preliminary valve adjustment, it shows two noticeably different methods for the 289 & 351 engines.
For the 289 it says to mark the damper starting at TDC with "A" and continue counterclockwise B, C, D. Then, for each quarter turn clockwise you take up the slack in both the intake & exhaust valves for each cylinder in the firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
For the 351 it says to mark the damper at TDC "A" then counterclockwise 90 degrees to C, and another 90 degrees to B. At "A" tighen 1, 4, & 8 intake and 1, 3 & 7 exhaust. Then rotate 180 degrees at "B" tighten 3&7 intake and 2&6 exhaust. Then rotate 279 degrees to "C" and tighten 2, 5, & 6 intake and 4, 5, & 8 exhaust.
Why the two different methods?
Initially I was just thinking that I could use the 289 method above using the 351 firing order.
My head hurts.
Mike
--------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
----------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
(email redacted)
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
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