Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: KruseJ (email redacted)

What is the correct finish for a manual 16:1 steering box?

TIA
Jim Kruse
70 SCJ

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Mail From: David McCracken (email redacted)



KruseJ wrote:

> What is the correct finish for a manual 16:1 steering box?
>
> TIA
> Jim Kruse
> 70 SCJ
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> All the list info you'll ever want: antler.webworks.ca/~server/cm

Box should be natural. You can use cast blast paint if you desire to
paint it. Otherwise sandblasted and low gloss cleared is proper.

David


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Mail From: Columbo Ron (email redacted)


On Mon, 11 May 1998 19:47:40 EDT, KruseJ <(email redacted)> asked:

>Subject: 70 Steering Box finish

>What is the correct finish for a manual 16:1 steering box?
>
>TIA
>Jim Kruse
>70 SCJ
>
Go to mustang.org, the Mustang Club of America website and you
can look up the Judging Rules for all of this type of info.

Hope this helps,
Ron Columbo

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Mail From: TJC1965 (email redacted)

In a message dated 98-05-12 00:00:44 EDT, you write:

<< Box should be natural. You can use cast blast paint if you desire to
paint it. Otherwise sandblasted and low gloss cleared is proper. >>

Hey-

Speaking of clear, has anyone found a good clear finish in a spray can? I did
a bunch of bolts, bracket etc with the Eastwood Nyilac stuff, and they rusted
anyway. Not even under hard use, just from the car sitting out side a few
weeks while # 2 project took the garage over..............

Thanks

Tom C
'65 k fastback - with rusty engine compartment hardware :-(
'82 GT

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Mail From: Watkins, Paul (email redacted)

> Speaking of clear, has anyone found a good clear finish in a spray
> can? I did
> a bunch of bolts, bracket etc with the Eastwood Nyilac stuff, and they
> rusted
> anyway. Not even under hard use, just from the car sitting out side a
> few
> weeks while # 2 project took the garage over..............
>
I too have had limited success with clear paint finishes. I was
considering plating the little buggers with a home plating kit. Just
curious - Didn't the bolts originally come with a plated finish?

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Mail From: KruseJ (email redacted)

In a message dated 98-05-12 23:30:53 EDT, you write:

<< Speaking of clear, has anyone found a good clear finish in a spray can? >>

Krylon Satin Poly was recommended by another member on the list.
I haven't tried it yet, but will be in the near future.

Jim Kruse
70 SCJ

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Mail From: speegle (email redacted)

Watkins, Paul wrote:

> I too have had limited success with clear paint finishes. I was
> considering plating the little buggers with a home plating kit. Just
> curious - Didn't the bolts originally come with a plated finish?

Yes phospate and dyes were used on most of the bolts and nuts in this
assemble. What ever you choose to do make sure the the cast metal ends
up looking cast while the cover, plug and machine surfaces do not (bare
metal not cast)

Jeff Speegle
MCA ANHJ

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Mail From: Rich Silva (email redacted)

At 08:50 PM 5/13/98 -0300, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 98-05-12 23:30:53 EDT, you write:
>
><< Speaking of clear, has anyone found a good clear finish in a spray can? >>
>

I've been using "Painter's Touch" by Rust-o-leum, both the Satin
and Gloss (although, not much of that). It works really well, and
the Satin finish really "hides" well. Cant say yet how long
it lasts or how rust preventive it is, as the car was only
finished a month or so ago...

I've also used the Nyalic finish and was not impressed. Although
the directions on the can suggest you "spray it on heavy", it still
does run easily and it does not seem to dry very quickly... I sprayed
a set of rims. Now, they do look great from a couple of feet away,
and still look brand new after almost a year... But up close,
you can easily see all the dust that got into the finish over
night in my garage as they dried... So I'll add a question to
this... anyone have any ideas on how to remove this (or a like)
finish without damaging the original finish of the wheel? (And/Or
a recommendation of a paint remover that will not react with the
Aluminum...)

Rich
--
Rich Silva (email redacted)
Voice - (310) 414-3101 Fax - (310) 615-4547

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Mail From: Rich Silva (email redacted)

At 02:41 AM 5/14/98 -0300, you wrote:
>
>Watkins, Paul wrote:
>
>> I too have had limited success with clear paint finishes. I was
>> considering plating the little buggers with a home plating kit. Just
>> curious - Didn't the bolts originally come with a plated finish?
>
>Yes phospate and dyes were used on most of the bolts and nuts in this
>assemble. What ever you choose to do make sure the the cast metal ends
>up looking cast while the cover, plug and machine surfaces do not (bare
>metal not cast)
>

I have had little success with the Eastwood "home plating" system.
On *all* my tests (various bits of steel, copper, and a couple of
bolts), the finish ended up mostly "white", would not stand up to any
buffing at all (even by hand). Adding either time or voltage (the
kit came with a 1.5 volt battery, I believe the new one uses
two D-cells, my experiment used a 6-volt) did not seem to have
much effect on the finish. Now, the finish did kind of look like
a "silver cad" finish if you rubbed it gently.... but it did
not stand up to any use at all...

Has anyone had any better experience? Is there a way to check
the "fluid" to make sure it was "strong enough" (what should
the pH be for proper plating? Was the solution just a mild
acid (which type) and could I simply replace it? Or did it
have something else in it?

Rich
--
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Voice - (310) 414-3101 Fax - (310) 615-4547

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