Classic Mustangs List Archive

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Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)

I am restoring a 66 Mustang GT 289 Convertible. It was put in storage in 1974
and was disassembled at the time. In 1988 it was sold to a man who then
handed it on to his brothers. They painted it red from the original white
outside and left palomino inside. they put on a white roof which is now
tearing. They also took out the interior which was standard interior and
replaced it with the palomino in a deluxe format with red carpet. The
interior and all of the parts on the door and interior have been removed for
painting. The interior was not painted. The outside was painted, but it was
not a good job. Then engine was professionally rebuilt but not run since it
was put in the car. My intention is to get the car running then have someone
paint it inside and out. I think we would probably scratch things if we
paint it first.

I have several questions about restoring.

1. Should I replace the wiring. As far as I know it has not been run since
1974. It is missing some wiring from the engine compartment but has tons of
stuff hanging from the dash. It has a few wires that have clearly been
spliced or ripped out. The steering column is out of the car and looks as if
wires were cut loose.


2. Do the wiring harnesses that sell for $395 include all the wiring for the
car or is this just for the stuff under the dash.
a. If I buy wiring what harnesses should I buy.

3. The seats have deluxe covers but I have read that standard seats can't take
deluxe covers. I know from the vin number that this car originally had
standard seats. If this is true is there any way I can tell if the seats were
replaced. Is there something that distinguishes the standard and deluxe
seats.

4. Several holes have been drilled into the floor as though a different seat
had been installed. In fact the front seats did not fit until I loosed the
bolts on the frame. I am a little concerned too about the strength of the
floor.

5. Is there a simple way to strengthen the floor?

6. Since the engine has not been run in years is there something special I
should do the first time I try to start it?

7. Does the radiator need any special treatment?

8. Does the gas tank need any special treatment?

9. Who makes the best replacement convertibles? When I bought the car I was
told that the roof was new, but it cracked about the 3rd time I closed it. It
will need replacing.

10. Do the power roof additions work well for cars that did not have them
originally?

11. It is missing a lot of bolts too. It is okay to go to the hardware store
and find close approximations or is it best to buy from one of the mustang
houses. A bolt that costs $.08 cents at the hardware store is $.70 cents from
the mustang houses.

This is a lot of questions

Rolland Fellows
Austin, Tx.
(512) 346-1796.

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Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)

On 03/03/99 22:21:01 you wrote:
>I have several questions about restoring.
>6. Since the engine has not been run in years is there something special I
>should do the first time I try to start it?

I would pull all the spark plugs out, shoot a shot of oil into each cylinder, and rotate the engine by
hand. I'd drain and replace the oil, check the antifreeze (replace probably), drain the gas from the
carb. and shoot gumout through the passages (perhaps a rebuild), drain all the gas and replace, charge the
battery (out of the car),replace the plugs ... you get the picture. When you turn over the engine, check
the engine compartment for any leaking gas. Check under the car too. You will begin to pressurize (I use
that term loosly) when you crank the engine over so any leak would likely show up then.

>8. Does the gas tank need any special treatment?

I'd drain it (be careful not to generate any sparks) and either take it out and flush with a gas line
cleaner (slosh it around in the tank) or run a bit of a cleaner through it and dispose of the cleaner.
I'd also replace all the rubber gas hoses when the tank is empty. If you run old gas, it is gummy and may
gum things up and smells like *^%$ if you get it to run.

Good luck! I am going through the same thing now myself (sitting for 3 years)

Dave


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Mail From: Mark Dixon (email redacted)

>Rolland Fellows wrote :



>6. Since the engine has not been run in years is there something special I
>should do the first time I try to start it?


Try pouring about 1/2 pint of auto tranny fluid down the throat of the
carby, allow to penetrate and then fire motor up. The fluid helps to
lubricate old parts that have not moved in a long time. The engine, if you
ever do fire it up ( unlikely ) will smoke for about 10 minutes but will
eventually burn off the fluid.


>7. Does the radiator need any special treatment?


After that long a period it should be corroded so badly it crumples as you
touch it. However if it's in reasonable condition, flush it both ways and
use a low pressure cap.


>8. Does the gas tank need any special treatment?


Yes. If it is intact, no holes or leaks, etc, drain it before firing up the
engine. There ain't nothing like bad fuel to bend pushrods. You'll
probably find that the gauge sender unit is shot - the fabric material in
the float is likely to have rotted and you'll probably find bits floating
around in the tank. Best bet is to remove tank, flush thoroughly, install
new sender and re-install with new fuel.

Yes, you did have a lot of questions, but if you don't ask them you don't
learn.

Cheers

Mark Dixon
Capital Classics
Canberra

Website :"capitalclassics.cyberone.com.au"





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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Watkins Jim LtCol CADRE/WGJ (email redacted)

Rolland,

In answer to your questions:

1. Should I replace the wiring. As far as I know it has not
been run since
1974. It is missing some wiring from the engine compartment but
has tons of
stuff hanging from the dash. It has a few wires that have
clearly been
spliced or ripped out. The steering column is out of the car
and looks as if
wires were cut loose.

Obviously a total replacement of all the wiring would be
cool, but depending on what you're building to (daily driver or concurs)
and available $, unless the wiring is damaged or broken beyond repair,
use it. My ' 66 still has all the original wiring.

2. Do the wiring harnesses that sell for $395 include all the
wiring for the
car or is this just for the stuff under the dash.
a. If I buy wiring what harnesses should I buy.

From the catalogs I've seen, $395 buys you just the
dash. Which harnesses you buy should really depend on what is damaged
or broken.

3. The seats have deluxe covers but I have read that standard
seats can't take
deluxe covers. I know from the vin number that this car
originally had
standard seats. If this is true is there any way I can tell if
the seats were
replaced. Is there something that distinguishes the standard
and deluxe
seats.

The seat foam buns are different, but it's hard to
describe. Go to your local Mustang shop and see if you can see a set
side-by-side. Also the door panel bracing for the deluxe interior door
panel are different.

4. Several holes have been drilled into the floor as though a
different seat
had been installed. In fact the front seats did not fit until I
loosed the
bolts on the frame. I am a little concerned too about the
strength of the
floor.

5. Is there a simple way to strengthen the floor?

For questions 4 & 5 replacing the floors permanently
with proper parts is probably best In the long run.

6. Since the engine has not been run in years is there something
special I
should do the first time I try to start it?

You didn't say exactly when the engine was rebuilt, but
if engine hasn't been turned since ' 88, you're facing rebuilding it
anyway. Moreso, if it was ' 74.

But, assuming it wasn't 11 years, what you do to get a
motor that's sat for years going directly effects its longivity. It is a
certaincy that if the engine wasn't prep'ed for long term storage, there
is really no way to get all the congealed sludge out, nor to lube every
moving part of the engine short of re-rebuilding the engine. These two
factors will probably accelerate having to rebuild the motor eventually
anyway - hopefully more later than sooner.

First the obvious stuff. Change the hoses (radiator and
gas) points, condenser, oil, oil filter, gas filter (if installed), PVC
valve and antifreeze.
Pull the plugs. Squirt engine oil into each cylinder.
Leave the plugs out. Let it set for a while and then turn it several
times over by hand. It'll probably be messy, but this will help prevent
the rings scuffing the cylinder walls.
I would pull the distributor and pre-lube the motor
(spinning the oil pump with a drill motor like you would with a rebuilt
engine). Consider rebuilding the carb as any fuel left in it will have
evaporated to lacquer. New fuel flowing through it will break it loose,
goo things up and probably cause you problems anyway.
Cold set the timing and fire it up (hopefully). Check
for leaks and abnormal noises (lifters, misfiring, etc).
After running it and letting it cool down, re-torque
every head, intake (replace the valve cover gaskets) and exhaust
manifold bolt to spec.

7. Does the radiator need any special treatment?

You may want to have it flushed and pressure tested.

8. Does the gas tank need any special treatment?

Flushing it out with a rust remover may be all you need.
You may want to look into getting a fuel tank repair and sealer kit that
Eastwood sells. Also consider installing an inline fuel filter between
the tank and the pump to catch any loose particles.

9. Who makes the best replacement convertibles? When I bought
the car I was
told that the roof was new, but it cracked about the 3rd time I
closed it. It
will need replacing.

There are a couple of very good quality manufactors,
such as Robbins, out there. Buy one by someone who offers a warranty
that covers several years from a reputable dealer, like National Parts,
Paddock etc. The real fun is finding someone who can put one on right.

10. Do the power roof additions work well for cars that did not
have them
originally?

All the components to retrofit a power top runs about
$800+. I don't think there is any difference between a manual top and a
power top frame.

11. It is missing a lot of bolts too. It is okay to go to the
hardware store
and find close approximations or is it best to buy from one of
the mustang
houses. A bolt that costs $.08 cents at the hardware store is
$.70 cents from
the mustang houses.

You didn't say which bolts, but again, this depending on
what you're building to (daily driver or concurs) and available $.
Obviously use Ford or the correct spec hardness hardware for things like
suspension, steering, etc. My rule of thumb is to use original or
original looking where they show.

Good luck.

JIm


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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Brock Banks (email redacted)

One thing I am curious about.... Did the GT's actually come with standard
interior? I thought all GT's had deluxe interior but I have been wrong
countless times before.

Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted)
[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of
(email redacted)
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 8:21 PM
To: (email redacted)
Subject: [CM:16103] 66 Mustang gt 289 convertible

I am restoring a 66 Mustang GT 289 Convertible. It was put in storage in
1974
and was disassembled at the time. In 1988 it was sold to a man who then
handed it on to his brothers. They painted it red from the original white
outside and left palomino inside. they put on a white roof which is now
tearing. They also took out the interior which was standard interior and
replaced it with the palomino in a deluxe format with red carpet. The
interior and all of the parts on the door and interior have been removed for
painting. The interior was not painted. The outside was painted, but it
was
not a good job. Then engine was professionally rebuilt but not run since it
was put in the car. My intention is to get the car running then have someone
paint it inside and out. I think we would probably scratch things if we
paint it first.

I have several questions about restoring.

1. Should I replace the wiring. As far as I know it has not been run since
1974. It is missing some wiring from the engine compartment but has tons of
stuff hanging from the dash. It has a few wires that have clearly been
spliced or ripped out. The steering column is out of the car and looks as
if
wires were cut loose.


2. Do the wiring harnesses that sell for $395 include all the wiring for
the
car or is this just for the stuff under the dash.
a. If I buy wiring what harnesses should I buy.

3. The seats have deluxe covers but I have read that standard seats can't
take
deluxe covers. I know from the vin number that this car originally had
standard seats. If this is true is there any way I can tell if the seats
were
replaced. Is there something that distinguishes the standard and deluxe
seats.

4. Several holes have been drilled into the floor as though a different seat
had been installed. In fact the front seats did not fit until I loosed the
bolts on the frame. I am a little concerned too about the strength of the
floor.

5. Is there a simple way to strengthen the floor?

6. Since the engine has not been run in years is there something special I
should do the first time I try to start it?

7. Does the radiator need any special treatment?

8. Does the gas tank need any special treatment?

9. Who makes the best replacement convertibles? When I bought the car I was
told that the roof was new, but it cracked about the 3rd time I closed it.
It
will need replacing.

10. Do the power roof additions work well for cars that did not have them
originally?

11. It is missing a lot of bolts too. It is okay to go to the hardware
store
and find close approximations or is it best to buy from one of the mustang
houses. A bolt that costs $.08 cents at the hardware store is $.70 cents
from
the mustang houses.

This is a lot of questions

Rolland Fellows
Austin, Tx.
(512) 346-1796.

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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Mark Dixon (email redacted)

They sure did - deluxe interior was an option for the GTs.
Mark Dixon
Capital Classics
Canberra

Website :"capitalclassics.cyberone.com.au"
-----Original Message-----
From: Brock Banks <(email redacted)>
To: (email redacted) <(email redacted)>
Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: [CM:16111] 16103] 66 Mustang gt 289 convertible


>One thing I am curious about.... Did the GT's actually come with standard
>interior? I thought all GT's had deluxe interior but I have been wrong
>countless times before.
>
>Thanks
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: (email redacted)
>[mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of
>(email redacted)
>Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 8:21 PM
>To: (email redacted)
>Subject: [CM:16103] 66 Mustang gt 289 convertible
>
>I am restoring a 66 Mustang GT 289 Convertible. It was put in storage in
>1974
>and was disassembled at the time. In 1988 it was sold to a man who then
>handed it on to his brothers. They painted it red from the original white
>outside and left palomino inside. they put on a white roof which is now
>tearing. They also took out the interior which was standard interior and
>replaced it with the palomino in a deluxe format with red carpet. The
>interior and all of the parts on the door and interior have been removed
for
>painting. The interior was not painted. The outside was painted, but it
>was
>not a good job. Then engine was professionally rebuilt but not run since
it
>was put in the car. My intention is to get the car running then have
someone
>paint it inside and out. I think we would probably scratch things if we
>paint it first.
>
>I have several questions about restoring.
>
>1. Should I replace the wiring. As far as I know it has not been run since
>1974. It is missing some wiring from the engine compartment but has tons
of
>stuff hanging from the dash. It has a few wires that have clearly been
>spliced or ripped out. The steering column is out of the car and looks as
>if
>wires were cut loose.
>
>
>2. Do the wiring harnesses that sell for $395 include all the wiring for
>the
>car or is this just for the stuff under the dash.
> a. If I buy wiring what harnesses should I buy.
>
>3. The seats have deluxe covers but I have read that standard seats can't
>take
>deluxe covers. I know from the vin number that this car originally had
>standard seats. If this is true is there any way I can tell if the seats
>were
>replaced. Is there something that distinguishes the standard and deluxe
>seats.
>
>4. Several holes have been drilled into the floor as though a different
seat
>had been installed. In fact the front seats did not fit until I loosed the
>bolts on the frame. I am a little concerned too about the strength of the
>floor.
>
>5. Is there a simple way to strengthen the floor?
>
>6. Since the engine has not been run in years is there something special I
>should do the first time I try to start it?
>
>7. Does the radiator need any special treatment?
>
>8. Does the gas tank need any special treatment?
>
>9. Who makes the best replacement convertibles? When I bought the car I
was
>told that the roof was new, but it cracked about the 3rd time I closed it.
>It
>will need replacing.
>
>10. Do the power roof additions work well for cars that did not have them
>originally?
>
>11. It is missing a lot of bolts too. It is okay to go to the hardware
>store
>and find close approximations or is it best to buy from one of the mustang
>houses. A bolt that costs $.08 cents at the hardware store is $.70 cents
>from
>the mustang houses.
>
>This is a lot of questions
>
>Rolland Fellows
>Austin, Tx.
>(512) 346-1796.
>
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>
>
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>


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Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)

Dear Brock-
This GT vin number clearly says that it came with a standard interior. The
people who owned it last decided they wanted the deluxe interior. The seats
we have are rusted pretty bad, unlike the rest of the car, so we wonder if
they are not the originals. Do you know of any way to tell standard frames
from deluxe frames, or are they the same thing?
We know that our GT is a little different, because not only did it not have
the deluxe interior, it also didn't have the dual exhausts.
Katherine and Rolland

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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Mark Dixon (email redacted)

In the last message you said "this GT vin number" and later you mentioned
that the car had no GT exhaust.

As there is no "GT" vin number on the car, I'm a little confused. Regards
the exhaust, as the twin system with GT trumpets was a standard fitting, it
is unusual to see a single system, although option deletes were available.

No offence intended, but are you sure the car is a genuine GT ?

Cheeers


Mark Dixon
Capital Classics
Canberra




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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Richard Madison (email redacted)

At 15:42 3/4/99 -0400, you wrote:
>One thing I am curious about.... Did the GT's actually come with standard
>interior? I thought all GT's had deluxe interior but I have been wrong
>countless times before.
>
>Thanks
>
In 1966 and 1965, the deluxe interior (Interior Decor Group) was a separate
option from the GT option...a factory original GT could come with a
standard interior...
Richard M '66 Silver Blue Coupe...



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Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)

In a message dated 3/5/99 12:40:00 AM Central Standard Time,
(email redacted) writes:

<< (email redacted) >>
Sorry, you are right. There is no GT vin number. I forgot what we confirmed
from where. We have talked to the 2nd owner and we have the Gt metal emblems
that confirmed that it was a Gt. He said it had dual exhaust but not the
trumpets.

Rolland

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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Chuck (email redacted)

On 3 Mar 1999, Rolland Fellows said:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[lots of stuff skipped]
1. Should I replace the wiring?
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Since it appears that you either have the car completely apart,
or soon will, I would say, YES!!!! The wiring in my '69 is
a mess, It has been jury-rigged by the last couple of owners.
Plus, since it hasn't been maintained in 25 years, there is
probibly some rust/corrosion/degredation of the wires themselves.
There are MANY wiring diagrams available. You could either
get the harnesses (which I would recommend), or buy miles
of wire and do it yourself.

Have fun.
Chuck

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