Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Jim Karamanis (email redacted)

Thanks to all for helping me locate the sending unit.....!!!

After locating the sending unit I found that there was no wire attached
to it.... So I fished around and found the wire, it was long enough but
the gauge did not respond after I attached it.... I tested the
continuity of the wire from the sending unit to the wiring harness, and
it seemed fine.... I then purchased and installed a new sending unit,
and am having the same problem as before.... The gauge goes to hot,
actually way beyond hot as soon as power is delivered to the gauge...
I know that it was working before I did my intake swap....

Is there anyway that I can doubled check whether or not I have the
correct wire?? Any other suggestions???

Thanks,

--
*****************************************
Jim Karamanis
E-MAIL: (email redacted)
HOMEPAGE: doubled.com/~dkaraman
*****************************************

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: MrFomoco (email redacted)

Jim Karamanis wrote:
>
> Thanks to all for helping me locate the sending unit.....!!!
>
> After locating the sending unit I found that there was no wire attached
> to it.... So I fished around and found the wire, it was long enough but
> the gauge did not respond after I attached it...

[....]

> Is there anyway that I can doubled check whether or not I have the
> correct wire?? Any other suggestions???

Correct wire is part of a three-wire "engine gauge feed"
harness...the temperature lead is red w/ a white stripe.
If the harness was changed, later replacements might not
match this pattern.

As to the problem, did you check these:

- clean, bare connection between sender and intake?
- clean, bare connection between sender and lead?
- correct sender p/n?

Hope this gets you going again.
--
MrF
Allen Cross
------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE online source for 1960-1973 Ford information.
voicenet.com/~fomoco
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Michael Melson (email redacted)

There should be a ground strap going from the back of the engine to
the fire wall, make sure it is getting a good connection. If the guage
has it's own ground check that too.

Mike

Jim Karamanis wrote:

> Thanks to all for helping me locate the sending unit.....!!!
>
> After locating the sending unit I found that there was no wire
> attached
> to it.... So I fished around and found the wire, it was long enough
> but
> the gauge did not respond after I attached it.... I tested the
> continuity of the wire from the sending unit to the wiring harness,
> and
> it seemed fine.... I then purchased and installed a new sending unit,
>
> and am having the same problem as before.... The gauge goes to hot,
> actually way beyond hot as soon as power is delivered to the gauge...
> I know that it was working before I did my intake swap....
>
> Is there anyway that I can doubled check whether or not I have the
> correct wire?? Any other suggestions???
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> *****************************************
> Jim Karamanis
> E-MAIL: (email redacted)
> HOMEPAGE: doubled.com/~dkaraman
> *****************************************

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Peterson, Keith (email redacted)

Did you remove the water temp sending unit during your swap?

If you did and you re-installed it using any type of sealant or Teflon
tape the unit is not properly grounded. the sender must have metal to
metal contact. Can someone get him the wire color(s)?

Keith, '71 r-i-r

>----------
>From: Jim Karamanis[SMTPemail redacted)]
>I know that it was working before I did my intake swap....
>
>Is there anyway that I can doubled check whether or not I have the
>correct wire?? Any other suggestions???
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Jim Karamanis (email redacted)

Peterson, Keith wrote:

>
>
> If you did and you re-installed it using any type of sealant or Teflon
>
> tape the unit is not properly grounded. the sender must have metal to
> metal contact.

I did use some sealant when I replaced it. However, this was just a
couple of days ago. Is there anyway to ground it without taking it back
out (for test purposes)....

thanks
--
*****************************************
Jim Karamanis
E-MAIL: (email redacted)
HOMEPAGE: doubled.com/~dkaraman
*****************************************

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (email redacted)

An easy way to check most vintage sending units (both gauge and Idiot-light
types)
is with a Ohm meter. Simply set the scale to check resistance and touch one
probe to a good engine ground and the other to the terminal with the sending
wire removed. Take note of the reading (if any). Now start the engine. There
should be a definite difference in the reading. If the sending unit is for a
idiot-light, you should get a closed (high reading) on the scale with engine
off and low reading with the engine running. If checking a gauge-type sender
you should get a difference between engine off- engine running, bringing up
the rev's on the motor should bring even more of a change in the Ohm meters
scale. You could try grounding the sending unit wire it self to a good engine
ground. If the gauge reads high the gauge and wiring is good and the sender
is the problem. You can also check the sending unit's base for a good ground
to the block by using the meter or just use a peice of wire between the base
(not the terminal) and a good ground.
I find a ohm meter indispensable when working around old cars. Their
pretty cheap to buy and have saved my butt many a time.

Steve Sweeney

<< I did use some sealant when I replaced it. However, this was just a
couple of days ago. Is there anyway to ground it without taking it back
out (for test purposes).... >>